ok i did some research... i i remember reading that getting a timing advance benifits autos more then manuals.... is this true??? because i was thinking about getting a timing advance on my max which is a 6speed and is it really worth it if it benefits less??? just trying to get this down before i goto my dealer and asking if they could do a timing advance (which i kinda doubt because my dealer service is pretty ****) but thinking if just not trying if it doesnt do tat much or if it will cause problems oh my car during the long run...,.

people say timing helps autos because it seems to help with the lag in shifting. manuals take better advantage of most any mod because they put more power to the wheels the same car in auto form. you should notice a bump in low end response with either auto or manual. good luck with the dealer.

Autos will only benefit, since they mash the gas pedal.

Manuals have to throttle the gas pedal, which adds FAR MORE advance then 17*. Logging my driving, I typically see 30-40*advance by 1200-1500rpm, so adding 2* at idle does nothing.

i was just going off SR20DEN comments after his timing advance for the manual statement.

I know...it's been an misconception here for awhile and will continue to be until one of these days when I can get my OBD scanner to quit flaking on me and I can post my advance vs. rpm log.

make sure that the timing at idle is set to 17* BTDC and you will be ok. Be warned, you need true 93 octane to run this or else you will experience detonation.

Speaking of OBD scanners flaking out, my Palm-based device had a hell of a time connecting to my 2k's OBD-II port the other day... wiggled wires/connectors to my heart's content, then it suddenly started working for no apparant reason, although it was a bit flaky (sensor readings would occasionally freeze), but after a while it was OK... I wonder why that happened?

Mine USED to be rock solid. Then I downloaded the "newer" version and I've had problems since.

I've found tinkering with the speeds, time out responses, etc. settings can make or break the connection.

I'm still trying to STUMBLE upon the most stable *YET* fast enough refresh rate. I've got it to stay connected now, but it's so slow that it doesn't show quick throttle changes.

We both talking about the Auterra OBD-II Dyno-Scan for PalmOS?

Nope.

Alex Pepper OBD-2.com scanner for the PC.

You can advance the '02-'03 VQ35 Maximas up to 20^ BTDC "IF" you do the following:

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.


And here's the rest of the stuff:

Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
ECU Resetting Procedures
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

I'm stupid with this kinda thing, but isn't this just the method to reset the computer?
How does that adjust the BTDC? Some wisdom needed here, Thanks!

See I heard differently that a timing advance on the 6 speed is noticable even on the 5 speed. I guess I'll try and find out huh

following that procedure wont advance the timing, it simply allows for the timing to advanced further than 17 btdc with the consult 2.

You still need the Consult II system to adjust the timing up to 17^, but in order to get it past that, you need to do the Idle Air Volume Learning. This will allow you to go all the way to 20^ BTDC. And no matter what transmission you're car is equipped with, you will notice the difference!

Have you verified that? Or are you just saying what you've read here?