soundmike

iTrader: (24)

Is it normal for a battery to die out in just a little over 2 years?

I was informed yesterday that the voltage was low on it, but i thought i could squeeze at least a couple more weeks out of it. I even got a Nissan Warranty pro-rata discount (would've cost me only $65 to replace).

I start it today and all i hear are a series of loud clicks. Took me a while to figure out that it was a dead battery.

Anyone with suggestions on a good, long lasting, deep cycle and affordable battery?

maximadave

iTrader: (10)

Sears Die Hard or Optima

soundmike

iTrader: (24)

Thanks Dave. I'll check out that Sears one. As for the Optima, i was thinking Yellow but there seems to be 6 different versions: http://batteriesareus.com/shop/index.htm?cPath=21_24

Mick Max

Odyssey 925 MJT 12 lb saving. 03BLKSETE put in a 680 mjt for a 23 lb weight savings. The Odyssey in my BMW cycle has been The best battery I eveh had.

NYC TAR

iTrader: (2)

anyways sears "auto" sells both the Sears Die Hard and Optima. the optima yellow come with only one year replacment warr and red has a three year replacement warr. well the optima in genaral is a expencive battery about 109 in Sears. I think I would check the battery level first and fillit with distilled water and see. my .02

soundmike

iTrader: (24)

Thank for the help guys. I had to jump start the car tonight and kept the car running for a good 20 minutes then drove around another 10.

Turned it off and the car *barely* turned over. I just hope i don't get stranded at work tomorrow.

It's nice to know that Sears carries both Diehard and Optima - in case i decide on one or the other

KLOOGY

iTrader: (12)

Optima ,Mikey ... no question. Ive drained it a few times with my car off andmy Amps going and you just let it sit for about 5 minutes and it will recharge itself and your car will crank up ! I have the verion that has the top and rear posts. I have the audio being powered by one set of posts, and my cars hookups go to the rear posts ....

soundmike

iTrader: (24)

Was it a direct replacement? (e.g. will the stock clamps hold the batter in place).

I'm considering the Optima since my headunit and sub is wired directly to the battery. So it won't hurt to have that extra power.

Bluesbrekr

iTrader: (4)

Hey Mike,

I have a Red Top. It's the smaller version (group 35 I think??) Plenty of power, but it saves a few pounds and the top posts are closer to the edge so I didn't have to stretch or bend the positive factory clamp. It also has side terminals for an audio connection. (which I hope to be using soon!)

soundmike

iTrader: (24)

What's the difference between the red and yellow? If the red performs pretty much like the yellow but weighs less, that may be a good thing.

Thanks for the photo's guys

PoLo

iTrader: (7)

red provides more starting power, meaning that it will start up forever and ever, so for nonaudio people, that's the best setup (it's also slightly less expensive).......more cycling power......yellow is deep cycle meaning it can handle a drain of power and still charge up to full capacity with the quickness. meaning that a system is good for yellow top. it can be completely discharged and charged more than 1000 times.
as far as fitting a yellow top on the maxima, it's easy except that the power is a tough reach. it fits, but you'll have to extend it. meaning you'll have to really tug at it and it barely reaches, BUT IT REACHES!!!! also the stock tie down will not fit. the optima is shorter, so you need a straight tie down (stock curves down) so that the threads of the tie down rods reach.

you need to get regular posts. don't ask for side posts, because that usually means you have a gm vehicle, which has the side terminals, which screw into the battery, so the "side posts" are hexagon shaped. you want top posts (round) that can get mounted on the side. i made that mistake once and recieved the wrong posts. interstate owns optima, which is also owned by johnson controls. that really doesn't matter other than that fact that if you have an interstate dealer around you, they sell round terminal posts for about $5. keep a careful eye on which you put on which polarity. they sell in pairs and the negative is smaller than the positive so if you put the - on the +, the stock ring will not be able to tighten.
and yes, it's always nice to separate the audio from the rest of the car. i gotta show my picture, only cause i think it's dead sexy stock on the side with audio wires on top connected via stinger regular and digital terminals.

KLOOGY

iTrader: (12)

Polo, I just noticed out bateries are mounted in opposite directions. My posts face the rear of the Max which made it easier to hook up and not have to stretch anything....

soundmike

iTrader: (24)

I bit the bullet and bought a Red top (cheaper with longer warranty). One click and she starts )

I was looking at DieHard's application/guide sheet and they had this info on them for OEM battery/requirements:

2003 Maxima - 445 CCA
2000-2002 Maxima - 585 CCA

I went with the 445 rating given the 2k2 is always mistaken to be a 2k/2k1.

I also went with the suggested "0-300 CCA more than OEM" and got the 720 CCA rated Red Top with dual posts (top and sides).

They didn't have any Blue or Yellowtops that would fit my car so that made the decision process much easier.

I would have bought the darned thing online for much cheaper, but i'm tired of jump starting the car several times already.

Btw, not sure on weight - but this battery is definitely smaller than the OEM, they even had to put a stand under the battery (Optima supplied).

Thanks for all the suggestions and tips! Truly appreciated

handsofstone

I have an optima red top. and i'm pushing about 1000 wts. Make sure it is not your altinator that's going bad. that was my problem. and also another member of maximage.