Mike2000SE

I have a 00 Max, with about 45k on all stock braking components. I was going to get OEM pads front and rear. The rotors feel warped during braking....so I can either replace or have them resurfaced.

My question is...how long will the rotors stay true if I get them turned? Is it just better to get new rotors?

LAstly...are there any online writeups for replacing brake pads and/or rotors? I have done a pad install on a Honda before, but that is all. I checked the how to thread, but the brake writeup was down Anyway, if anyone knows any special tools that are needed to get the rotors off...or anything to help me out, please let me know! Thanks!

maxima0002

Hi Mike2000SE,

Wish i could answer your other quesetions...

anyhow, when you get a chance, check out this link:

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300

He has a great write up on Front brake install...

Cheers,
Maxima0002

theMax

Get them turned. Since they are thinner, they will warp again, but its not worth getting new rotors just yet if you do the work your self. If they are not warped very bad they will just be resurfaced and will last a while. I don't think the after marked rotors will last that much longer. Have them turned and get a good set of brake pads. Search as there are a lot of opinion on this.

The install should be about the same as on your honda. Let us know of you get stuck.

Mike2000SE

Cool! Thanks for all the info guys!

One last thing....where would be the cheapest place to get OEM pads from? Dave B? Courtesy? I think I will pair up OEM pads with some lifetime rotors from pep-boys or the like. It's just a daily driver....not much speeding going on

Oh yea! One last thing...are the rotors held on by any bolts? Or do they simple slide on and off? I know I have to remove the caliper bracket, but after that....do I just pound them off? THanks!

theMax

The rotors are held on by the wheel bolts. Once the wheel is off and the brake caliper. Tap it with a hammer to make it loose. (if you still have washer looking things on the lug bolts, take them off. They do not need to be put back on.)

I would just go with a good pad from your local auto parts store. Im sure pep boys have some lifetime pads for you.

JodyBerry

[QUOTE=Mike2000SE]Cool! Thanks for all the info guys! QUOTE]


Mike,

I recently asked this same question about brakes. Here's the response I got from one member:
An org member posted this awhile back:

Rotor & Brade Pad Installation Notes
My notes from rotor and brake pad swap without disconnecting brake lines or bleeding brakes.

Brake Install Notes:

Tools/Equipment:

• Jack & Jack Stands
• Impact Wrench or Lug Nut Wrench
• 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets & ratchet
• C-Clamp
• Rear Piston Compression Tool
• Mechanics Grease or Anti-Seize Grease
• Brake Cleaner
• Rubber Mallet


Front:

1. Put the car up on jack stands and remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the bolts holding the upper piece of the caliper on...14mm...these came off without any effort...slide the caliper off and hang it on the coil of the spring.
3. Remove the brake pads...they pop right off...pay attention to the way they are seated.
4. Remove bolts holding the lower piece of the caliper on...19mm...these require some elbow grease to remove, but I did not need any liquid wrench or a breaker bar...slide the second caliper piece off and set aside.
5. Remove the rotor...requires some rocking and tapping to remove...my stock rotors did NOT have a bolt hole easy removal so I did some light tapping on the back side with a mallet as I turned the rotor.
6. Install new rotor...clean up the wheel hub first and rub some grease around the hub to prevent the new rotor from rusting onto the hub like the stock one.
7. Reinstall lower piece of caliper...clean it up first to remove all the brake dust...tighten up 19mm bolts good and tight.
8. Install new brake pads...ensure that you remove the backing plates off the old pads and install them to the new pads.
9. Compress the piston on the upper piece of the caliper...loosen cap on the brake fluid resevoir by the driver's side strut tower in the engine bay to make piston compression possible...use a clamp and equally distribute pressure as you compress...watch for brake fluid overflow.
10. Reinstall upper piece of the caliper...clean it up first to remove all the brake dust...tighten up the 14mm bolts marginally (remember how easy they were to remove).


You're all done. Differences for the rears:

• You must remove the 14mm bolt holding the mount for the emergency brake cable to get the upper part of the caliper off...underneath the caliper.
• Lower piece of caliper is held on by 17mm bolts instead of the 19mm on the front.
• Piston needs to be turned clockwise to be compressed...I suppose you could use pliers, but you can buy a small piston compression tool which hooks on to a ratchet and makes life really easy...the one they sell at Sears has a piston pattern which fits the rear calipers on the Maxima.
• Make sure you hook the emergency brake cable onto the spring mechanism before reinstalling the upper caliper piece as it will be hard to hook back on after the caliper is assembled.

Mike2000SE

you guys are awesome! I will take pics of my install along the way and put together a how-to. Thanks a bunch!