I changed my front pads/rotors last night but when i tried to do the rears, i couldnt get the piston on the caliper to compress. What should i use? I big c-clamp? Also, the rotor would not come off once the caliper was removed and i didnt want to yank it too hard, is there something holding it on that im not seeing? Sorry for the dumb questions but search is down. Thanks.

 

You have to turn the piston clockwise to get it to compress. Watch the brake fluid level in the reservior to make sure that it does not shoot out of the top. You may want to remove some fluid with a baster if it is near full.

 

To break the rotor loose, tap on it from the inside with a large rubber mallet/hammer. Nothing else is holding it in place (at least that's the way my '03 rotors came off)

 

Thanks for the info. I got the caliper to compress now but that rotor will not budge. I hit it with a hammer from the back (with some cloth in between) but it wont move. I dont want to hit it too hard and mess up the alignment or anything. Any other tricks to getting the rotor off???

 

please tell me u took the ENTIRE caliper off before trying to pound it off. if u only took off the cylinder part of caliper with the piston in it, u still have to remove the torque member that holds the cylinder on. the ESM shows 2 bolts holding the torque member in place. if u havent taken those 2 bolts off (which i assume you have done since u did the fronts already) then that might be your problem. if not than i have no clue!

will

 

yes i took the whole caliper off of course. that rotor is really stuck on there. i will probably just take it by my local shop tomorrow and have them do it.

 

Dude...been here recently. Those rear rotors are just stubborn b@st@rds. One member suggested to me that a steering wheel puller might help, but I just got a really long steel rod and used leverage...

They will come off even if they don't like it.

-Sean

 

if you wack the center of the rotor it should break lose check to make sure around the center hub to see if there is rust there because that what holding up the rotor tghat rust needs to be removed

 

MARK THE LOCATION LUG PATTERN WHERE YOU TAKE THE ROTOR OFF- OOPS DIDN'T DO IT DID YA (; AND PUT IT BACK ON IN EXACTLY THE SAME PLACE...MACHINE THE ROTORS, USE STOCK PADS, NEW SHIMS IF NEEDED AND TORQUE THE LUG BOLTS BACK ON TO FACTORY SPECS. TO AVOID WARPING THE ROTORS AND GETTING THE COMMON PULSING AND WHEEL WOBBLE- OBVIOUSLY TIGHTEN IN A CROSS PATTERN, NEVER EACH BOLT NEXT TO THE OTHER ONE...JUST FYI. FLUSH FLUID AT 50K.

 

Lots of liquid wrench where the studs come through the rotor WD Wont usually do it. Should then tap the face. Was always taught not to pound on the back of the disc or pry on the disc.