Im need to get some rotors for my 2k2 but the guy at meineke who checked my brakes out quoted me 700 to get new rotors (100 per rotor from nissan) and pads. I told him Im going to get some aftermarket brakes and he specifically told me to not get the crossdrilled brakes because they wrap under heat faster and aren't meant for a maxima. Now, should i just order some slotted rotors or can I get the crossdrilled and slotted rotors?

 

I have powerslot rotors on my '03 and i'm happy with them. Big improvement over stock.

I'd avoid cross drilled rotors for daily street driving. They do have a tendancy to crack.

BTW, that meineke guy is smokin crack to ask that kinda $ for a brake job

 

yesterday i installed powerslot front rotors with hawk pads and so fas i like them!!

 

thanks guys. I was just wondering where I can buy powerslot rotors.

 

custommaxima.com But, they will rape on shipping charge. they sell every where, even your local tunner shop (Eastern auto shop has it) . Did you go to the meineke shop in bayside right by p.c ? He is big time a hole

 

thanks. i think ill check fizz first since i live right there but looks like its time to go to eastern motorsports. really dont want to park in flushing

 

yeah..that meineke sucks a fatty but good service is hard to come by in queens especially in Bayside. its time to whip out the toolbox and the jack.

 

#1 dont take your max to meineke
#2 cross drilled rotors on a STREET CAR will not warp or crack..i road race i know
#3 get some slotted/xdrilled...NON nissan rotors... u should be OK

how many miles on ur car?

 

You can't tell me they won't crack. I've had them crack several times on my Contour SVT and on my truck. I went back to the solid rotor for the truck, and slotted for the 'tour. Never had another problem...

 

I got my rotors for $165 shipped only... if you interested let me know... i'll you his email!!!

 

Guys let me know your opinion....

I have had powerslot rotors with Hawk pads on for over 1000 miles now. Just recently they started making an aweful grinding noise (when off the brakes and even when on). I notice it gets louder when I make turns.

Is anyone else experiencing this grinding noise? I'd hate to take these rotors and pads off, but I'm starting to get annoyed at the noise!!!

 

You can't really blame that noise on the pads/rotors until you've done some more troubleshooting. It could be a wheel bearing going bad...

Happened to me

 

My powerslots and brake pads are still in their shipping boxes (a full set, front and rear) since I got them back in october... been so busy....anyway did you bleed and or change out your brake fluid at all?

I may have time to do mines this coming weekend when I do oil change and air fliter change.....

How did you break your brakes in?

 

I have the SP performance slotted and drilled rotors with the KVR semi metallic and carbon fiber mixed pads. There better than stock, low dust on wheels, pads are rotor friendly, slight "hum" every now and then under hard braking because of the slotting, but good stopping power. Virtually no fade. Best of all rotors have not "warped" like the stock ones do. These are also cheaper than the big brake kits. I paid about $300 for the rotors and pads. I had my rotors powder coated to keep them from rusting, you can also cadmium coat them as well. They have been on the car for a few months, about 5,000 miles, still no problems. Here are the links where I bought them. the last link you can see the rotors on my car.

Rotors:

http://www.raceshopper.com/sp_rotors.shtml

Pads:

http://www.kvrperformance.com/world/world.html


http://us.f2.yahoofs.com/bc/3fd2604b...fXcT2_ALTvf5aa.

 

Did you replace you brake lines with stainless ones? If not, you will definitely still have fade...big time.

 

No the lines are stock, but the fade is a whole lot less than with the stock rotors and pads. The amount I have to stand on the brakes to get the car to stop has also been reduced. The fade comes in when the pads get very hot and create gases between the pads and rotors. With the drilling and slotting, thats been reduced.

 

That's not fade...that's failure. Fade is when the stopping power is reduced due to thinning/hot fluid (or boiling it off), lines stretching (b/c they are made of rubber), and rotors no longer being able to dissapate the heat quite as well. When it gets to the point where you have serious gas buildup between the pads and rotors, you're screwed...

 

That seems like a great idea, but they dont make rotors for the 2k2?! So who knows, I just got hosed huge on my brakes and I need new ones asap. I guess its stillens or powerslots is that the deal?

 

Aside from just over using the brakes, fade is caused by gas coming off the pads


Definition: A reduction in brake power due to lessening of friction between the brake shoes and drum or pads and disc. Brake fade often occurs from heat buildup due to repeated or prolonged brake application.

Another popular addition to a high performance brake system are sport disc brake rotors that are dimpled, drilled or grooved to reduce brake fade by helping evacuate the surface film of gases that are often released during very heavy braking. All brake pads contain some organic (living) materials (like the petro-chemical resins that bind the friction materials together). As these organic materials “overheat," they revert to gases that may cause the brake pads to lose some of their contact with the rotor, essentially “aquaplaning" away from the rotor on a film of gases.


As you can see with these different opions on brake fade, none of them list brake lines as a cause for brake fade. Yes rubber lines can stretch (more the older they are) causing a spongy feel in the pedal, but that is not brake fade. Even high performance cars that have updated brake components have rubber lines not steel braided ( my dads vette for instance) They use larger rotors, different ventillation techniques such as slotted or X drilled to get rid of heat and gases associated with hard breaking. The problem with the max is undersized rotors. A Honda civic has bigger rotors than the max. Therefore a lot of heat is generated due to the small sized rotor and metallic pads. That's Nissans "CHEAP FIX" that and they use thicker rotors so you can turn them more. I'll put money down on a stopping contest of repetitive braking, me with slotted and drilled rotors and stock rubber lines and you with stock rotors and pads and high dollar steel braided lines. When you sail past me while I'm stopped dead, there will be your answer.

 

Your definition doesn't accurately state everything that makes up brake fade. Fade is a reduction in stopping power, and when your fluid gets superheated from continuous hard use, the rubber absolutely starts to expand. The fluid itself is actually less useful at this time due to a density drop. This causes you to have to depress the brake pedal farther and farther to acheive the same stopping effect as before. When you get to the floor, you're screwed.

Also, I did note in a previous post that the right rotors/pad combo is going to be more effective as well. Combining better rotors/pads with SS lines and better fluid is as good as we can get on the stock caliper/rotor size setup...

 

Thanks for the great info. It was really useful and help me decide on getting an aftermarket rotors once I need a brake job. I didn't know this, I was unsure about the slotted or drilled but thanks!

 

No problem

 

Don't forget that steel lines are rubber on the inside. Also the fluid starts to boil in the caliper due to heat build up. This causes micro bubbles in your brake lines that causes the spongy reduced brake travel. That why brakes are bled. Fade is unavoidable with or without SS lines. For daily street driving i can't say I see a need to spend the money if I'm not going to get much in return. Remember, heat is the biggest enemy of brakes. Unfortunately heat is the bi product of friction. This is why you see the technology invested in the rotors and pads of cars, not the brake lines.

 

Don't forget that steel lines are rubber on the inside. Also the fluid starts to boil in the caliper due to heat build up. This causes micro bubbles in your brake lines that causes the spongy reduced brake travel. That why brakes are bled. Fade is unavoidable with or without SS lines. For daily street driving i can't say I see a need to spend the money if I'm not going to get much in return. Remember, heat is the biggest enemy of brakes. Unfortunately heat is the bi product of friction. This is why you see the technology invested in the rotors

 

Don't forget that steel lines are rubber on the inside. Also the fluid starts to boil in the caliper due to heat build up. This causes micro bubbles in your brake lines that causes the spongy reduced brake travel. That why brakes are bled. Fade is unavoidable with or without SS lines. For daily street driving i can't say I see a need to spend the money if I'm not going to get much in return. Remember, heat is the biggest enemy of brakes. Unfortunately heat is the bi product of friction. This is why you see the technology invested in the rotors and pads, not brake lines

 

Actually, mine are sillicone...(sp?)

 

$700 dollars? Shoot if you have the parts, I'll do the brake job for you free!

 

I have a set of custom X drilled and slotted Brembo rotors for a 2k2- 3 . Check the 5th gen For sale forum..they are brand new ..http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=268207

 

Those are pretty...but why cross drilled?

 

I wanted both, x drilled and slotted. Now I want a Big Brake kit instead....so Im selling !..

 

add another $250 and get big brake kit from matt93se.

 

Which kit are you planning on going with? I want to do the same thing...

 

Wilwood , probably . I had a chance for a kick *** deal on an Ap racing 4 piston , 2 piece rotor set at Stillen show , but slammed94 beat me to it ....

 

I also bought a set of custom drilled Brembo rotors which should arrive within a week. I should have thought a little more before I ordered them.

If you are considering custom drilling blank Brembos, keep it blank or buy slotted. Cross drilled rotors are more prove to cracking over slotted. You also get chances water getting in the holes which will cause a water bearier between the pad and rotor.

IMO, more surface area the pad comes in contact, the better it is.

 

We all have different opinions on rotors..... I guess you just buy what you think best fit your needs....