First VQ35 w/6spd into a 2000?!?!?
12-10-2003, 02:59 PM
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,720
Similar conversations have come up on the Superhonda and TL/CL websites when it comes to swapping a J32A2 motor (TL Type S) into a 6G Accord. Most folks agreed that its really hard to justify the cost, especially given the ready availability of the TL-S.(Although most agreed that an 98-02 Accord coupe with a J32A would be cool.) But the TL is very different from the Accord, speaking aesthetically.
The Y2K Maxima on the otherhand is aesthetically the same as the 2K2.
I hope your Y2k project at least makes it into a magazine.
Peace.
The Y2K Maxima on the otherhand is aesthetically the same as the 2K2.
I hope your Y2k project at least makes it into a magazine.
Peace.
12-10-2003, 05:25 PM
#47
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,836
Originally Posted by soonerfan
but EVERYTHING is 02/03! whole dash (stereo, climate control) all the gauges, everything on the steering wheel.
is ANYTHING on the car even 2000??
frame and body maybe?
is ANYTHING on the car even 2000??
frame and body maybe?
12-10-2003, 08:22 PM
#48
Needs non-Maxima Friends
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,681
If there's still any question as to it being or not being a 2k, here are some giveaways that it was a 2k gxe:
1. Chrome door handles, so it had to be either a GXE or GLE. Also notice the lack of sideskirts
2. Those are definitely 2k GXE cloth seats
1. Chrome door handles, so it had to be either a GXE or GLE. Also notice the lack of sideskirts
2. Those are definitely 2k GXE cloth seats
12-10-2003, 08:31 PM
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Ok, a litlle bit more info. I am his bro and I saw and helped him a little with the swap. The engine and tranny that was originally in the car went into my 4th gen and he put everything from 2k2 max into that 2k body. Now he is seliing it. Nothing is wrong with the car. It runs perfect and looks clean. So buyers, don't be scared.
http://members.cardomain.com/vasiliy
http://members.cardomain.com/vasiliy
12-10-2003, 08:53 PM
#53
![[maxi-overdose]'s Avatar](https://maxima.org/forums/customavatars/avatar1856_1.gif){kind=avatar}
maxS - I want to say that you did a good job on the swap and I've never seen something like this before. must be a lot of time and effort for this project 
how much time did you spend on this?
I noticed that you are from Bay Area too.....do you want to bring your ride to one of our meet? I bet a lot people want to check it out.
how much time did you spend on this?I noticed that you are from Bay Area too.....do you want to bring your ride to one of our meet? I bet a lot people want to check it out.
12-10-2003, 10:13 PM
#55
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Portsmouth, NH
Posts: 234
Why is everyone getting so defensive over this. He swapped everything out. I'd do the same if I was in that position. If you ask me, he did an excellent job, and he deserves credit, not criticism. If you're not interested in buying the car, or interested in the work that went into it, then why reply to the thread? Why does it matter to you if you're not buying the car? How about a job well done, and good luck selling the car.
12-11-2003, 01:07 AM
#57
Originally Posted by Trance Artur
how did the engine fit into the 2k maxima engine bay? was it a perfect fit?
the engine going from 3.0 to 3.5 is simply bored out to that displacement, its not that much bigger size wise
vsamoylov: why didn't u keep the variable intake manifold off the 2000 maxima when u swapped it over to your 4th gen?
dats right!
12-11-2003, 08:06 AM
#60
Originally Posted by CCS2k1Max
Aside from the concerns others have raised, I wonder how the car does in the cooling dept. with the smaller 2k grille and air dam. Also, I presume the front brakes are the 2k3's.
It doesnt matter. I have 3 coolers sitting right in front of my radiator and 10% of the radiator is blocked. my water temp never raises a bit. Even when I was running super lean before, it still didnt show any sign of overheat.
grill and bumper opening just for the look.
12-11-2003, 08:15 AM
#61
I believe he swapped the brakes along with the axles.
Man I wish I had $12K....fuking steal IMO.
Man I wish I had $12K....fuking steal IMO.
Originally Posted by CCS2k1Max
Aside from the concerns others have raised, I wonder how the car does in the cooling dept. with the smaller 2k grille and air dam. Also, I presume the front brakes are the 2k3's.
12-11-2003, 08:22 AM
#62
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 381
I think it's easier than you guys think.
Since he bought the entire car all he has to do is swap everything directly.
Disconnect the harness from the ECU. Before you pull the engine and tranny on a FWD you have to pull the axles out of the brake hub then from the tranny. Once that's done, he pulls the engine and tranny out along with the harness from the 2k.
Then he does the reverse with the 2k2 parts. Drop in the 2k2 engine and tranny directly along with the harness on it, attach the 2k2 axles to the tranny and put then in the brake hub (he could even put in the 2k2's wheels which is also a direct swap), route the ecu harness back through the whole and in the car, and attach and mount the 2k2 ECU. That's ALL the mechanical things you'd need. Since you swapped everything directly, all the sensors connect. Pull out the 2k's throttle cable and pedal and put in the driveby wire system. That's easily done if your dash is out, and since you have a 2k2 dash might as well put it in.
Direct drop and nothing to custom fit.
That's what i think it would take. If not, then it's not much more complicated than that.
Since he bought the entire car all he has to do is swap everything directly.
Disconnect the harness from the ECU. Before you pull the engine and tranny on a FWD you have to pull the axles out of the brake hub then from the tranny. Once that's done, he pulls the engine and tranny out along with the harness from the 2k.
Then he does the reverse with the 2k2 parts. Drop in the 2k2 engine and tranny directly along with the harness on it, attach the 2k2 axles to the tranny and put then in the brake hub (he could even put in the 2k2's wheels which is also a direct swap), route the ecu harness back through the whole and in the car, and attach and mount the 2k2 ECU. That's ALL the mechanical things you'd need. Since you swapped everything directly, all the sensors connect. Pull out the 2k's throttle cable and pedal and put in the driveby wire system. That's easily done if your dash is out, and since you have a 2k2 dash might as well put it in.
Direct drop and nothing to custom fit.
That's what i think it would take. If not, then it's not much more complicated than that.
12-11-2003, 08:28 AM
#64
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 956
Hats off to you bro, this is a hell of a transplant, regardless of what the nay sayers say.
How did you get the keys to work after the ECU swap (or did you have the keys from the 2k2)? You either have contacts at nissan or a consult II?
space we can recover, time .... ahh yes time?
SHIFT_woosh
How did you get the keys to work after the ECU swap (or did you have the keys from the 2k2)? You either have contacts at nissan or a consult II?
space we can recover, time .... ahh yes time?
SHIFT_woosh
12-11-2003, 08:58 AM
#65
If he had the 2K2 key, simply swap the ignition module(IMMU).
Originally Posted by woosh
How did you get the keys to work after the ECU swap (or did you have the keys from the 2k2)? You either have contacts at nissan or a consult II?
SHIFT_woosh
SHIFT_woosh
12-11-2003, 09:28 AM
#66
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 381
Oh yeah, most definitely Hats off to you for doing this. I'm not a nay sayer, i'm just saying that i wouldn't decide not to buy the car because of the swap and thinking it would be unreliable. Nissan themselves couldn't put this thing together any better.
12-11-2003, 09:41 AM
#67
Originally Posted by [maxi-overdose]
It doesnt matter. I have 3 coolers sitting right in front of my radiator and 10% of the radiator is blocked. my water temp never raises a bit. Even when I was running super lean before, it still didnt show any sign of overheat.
grill and bumper opening just for the look.
grill and bumper opening just for the look.
I am willing to bet this 2k is running hotter than if it had the larger opening of the 2k2-3.
12-11-2003, 10:16 AM
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by [maxi-overdose]
maxS - I want to say that you did a good job on the swap and I've never seen something like this before. must be a lot of time and effort for this project how much time did you spend on this?
I noticed that you are from Bay Area too.....do you want to bring your ride to one of our meet? I bet a lot people want to check it out.
how much time did you spend on this?I noticed that you are from Bay Area too.....do you want to bring your ride to one of our meet? I bet a lot people want to check it out.
12-11-2003, 10:28 AM
#69
Originally Posted by CCS2k1Max
You'd be surprised. The Max's temperature gauge is NOT a true-reading gauge. It is designed to stay put as long as the coolant temperature is within a certain "acceptable" range. In real life, engine coolant doesn't stay at one set temperature. Manufacturers do it to prevent the inevitable service visits from people who don't know that (and we know how well our dealers like to treat us anyway). Also, just imagine all the posts here about engine temps if we had true-reading gauges... The gauge points to "normal" as long as the temp is within a range. Only when it rises outside that normal range will the gauge deflect to the high end (or the low end as the case may be), but, by then it may be too late.
I am willing to bet this 2k is running hotter than if it had the larger opening of the 2k2-3.
I am willing to bet this 2k is running hotter than if it had the larger opening of the 2k2-3.
I think all we need for our application is to have water temp to be within a range and as long as they are within that range, the cooling system is working fine. If a fan is not working or the cooling system is clogged, you will definitly see it on your in-dash temp gauge.
I thought we were talking about the grill and bumper opening that might affect the water temp. I am pretty sure air flow is not going to affect the water temp in this case. This 2k/2k2 hybrid may run hotter or cooler than a stock 2k/2k1, we dunno. But as long as 2k and 2k2 have the similar size of radiator, it should be fine. Plus, your water temp is regulated.
12-11-2003, 10:35 AM
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Well, to answer that temp question... I've been doing different progects around car for like a 100 years (i'm not 16); so i still remember the times when cars actually overheated and boiled; and that was a problem even for OEM cooling systems with no mods. So open the hood and i will tell ya not looking at any readings if your engine overheats or not . But! The differens in size of the openings on 2k vs 2k2 - i even did not think of that because it's that insignificant; second, did anyone ever look at the differences in radiators size on say 99 vs. 2002? Or auto vs. manual? (i'm not giving you any clues here). So? But out of curiousity i drove a couple of days with... guess what i used to get real readings.
(i'm not 16); so i still remember the times when cars actually overheated and boiled; and that was a problem even for OEM cooling systems with no mods. So open the hood and i will tell ya not looking at any readings if your engine overheats or not . But! The differens in size of the openings on 2k vs 2k2 - i even did not think of that because it's that insignificant; second, did anyone ever look at the differences in radiators size on say 99 vs. 2002? Or auto vs. manual? (i'm not giving you any clues here). So? But out of curiousity i drove a couple of days with... guess what i used to get real readings.
12-11-2003, 10:36 AM
#71
Granted, I am referring to this app. and I am pretty sure he' not monitoring cylinder head or exhaust temps. As for the electric fan, what do you think the life expectancy will be if it's working twice as hard to keep the car running at a normal range in the Bay area hills?
(maxS this was a response to maxi-OD. I was just curious. if the temps are ok, great. I still wouldn't attempt the swap, and
)
(maxS this was a response to maxi-OD. I was just curious. if the temps are ok, great. I still wouldn't attempt the swap, and
)
12-11-2003, 10:50 AM
#72
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 734
Originally Posted by maxS
Well, to answer that temp question... I've been doing different progects around car for like a 100 years (i'm not 16); so i still remember the times when cars actually overheated and boiled; and that was a problem even for OEM cooling systems with no mods. So open the hood and i will tell ya not looking at any readings if your engine overheats or not . But! The differens in size of the openings on 2k vs 2k2 - i even did not think of that because it's that insignificant; second, did anyone ever look at the differences in radiators size on say 99 vs. 2002? Or auto vs. manual? (i'm not giving you any clues here). So? But out of curiousity i drove a couple of days with... guess what i used to get real readings.
(i'm not 16); so i still remember the times when cars actually overheated and boiled; and that was a problem even for OEM cooling systems with no mods. So open the hood and i will tell ya not looking at any readings if your engine overheats or not . But! The differens in size of the openings on 2k vs 2k2 - i even did not think of that because it's that insignificant; second, did anyone ever look at the differences in radiators size on say 99 vs. 2002? Or auto vs. manual? (i'm not giving you any clues here). So? But out of curiousity i drove a couple of days with... guess what i used to get real readings.I think the swap is awesome
i only dream of 3.5/6spd.You say you had a lot of time due to the suk as$ economy-please tell me your not a mechanic/technition?- because im seriously considering going to school for this.
i thought automotive techs were somewhat in demand
12-11-2003, 12:15 PM
#73
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 381
As mentioned, the front opening is a non issue. The 2k2 front end is more for looks than cooling functionality. If that gauge is staying at the normal level, you're set. If it goes past this range and reaches the next range the gauge will go to the next notch. That's why there are notches instead of COLD-NORMAL-OVERHEATING.
12-11-2003, 12:23 PM
#74
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
hey, do u know when and where a meet is going to take place? cause i want to go and probably will go with my bro but on seperate maximas. help me out?
usually we have meets during the summer. recently there are not that many because the rain and meet organizers are upset for ppl not showing up. so...maybe next year.
visit west coast forum to get more info. or you can always go hang out at matthel's (Turbo95max) garage....he's our local installer.
12-11-2003, 12:31 PM
#75
Originally Posted by maxS
Well, to answer that temp question... I've been doing different progects around car for like a 100 years (i'm not 16); so i still remember the times when cars actually overheated and boiled; and that was a problem even for OEM cooling systems with no mods. So open the hood and i will tell ya not looking at any readings if your engine overheats or not . But! The differens in size of the openings on 2k vs 2k2 - i even did not think of that because it's that insignificant; second, did anyone ever look at the differences in radiators size on say 99 vs. 2002? Or auto vs. manual? (i'm not giving you any clues here). So? But out of curiousity i drove a couple of days with... guess what i used to get real readings.
(i'm not 16); so i still remember the times when cars actually overheated and boiled; and that was a problem even for OEM cooling systems with no mods. So open the hood and i will tell ya not looking at any readings if your engine overheats or not . But! The differens in size of the openings on 2k vs 2k2 - i even did not think of that because it's that insignificant; second, did anyone ever look at the differences in radiators size on say 99 vs. 2002? Or auto vs. manual? (i'm not giving you any clues here). So? But out of curiousity i drove a couple of days with... guess what i used to get real readings.I dont think anyone ever look into the radiator size, IIRC some had used smaller radiator for more engine bay space for turbo application. all I know is that manual radiator does not have the build-in ATF tranny cooler.
do you want to show us (bay area peeps) your ride before you sold it?
12-11-2003, 12:39 PM
#76
Originally Posted by CCS2k1Max
Granted, I am referring to this app. and I am pretty sure he' not monitoring cylinder head or exhaust temps. As for the electric fan, what do you think the life expectancy will be if it's working twice as hard to keep the car running at a normal range in the Bay area hills?
not sure about the life expectancy of the fan.....but when it's on its way out, you will hear the bearing is not as good as before and it will be loud. if everything is installed correctly and 2k2 and 2k radiator shares the same part number, we wont have to worry about overheating the engine.
12-11-2003, 03:56 PM
#78
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by [maxi-overdose]
usually we have meets during the summer. recently there are not that many because the rain and meet organizers are upset for ppl not showing up. so...maybe next year.
visit west coast forum to get more info. or you can always go hang out at matthel's (Turbo95max) garage....he's our local installer.
visit west coast forum to get more info. or you can always go hang out at matthel's (Turbo95max) garage....he's our local installer.
couldn't have said it better myself