Around what mileage have the ignition coils been going out?

2001 SE

 

Mine went out at about 50,000

 

Mine went out at 82k but still they should have lasted at least 100k

 

I had one fail hard at 47K, but now that I've replaced all six, the
idle is now completely smooth (used to have an intermitent miss).
Since it's been doing that since about 38K I'm assuming the coil
started to fail back then.

 

how do you know when your ignition coil is failing?

 

I don't think there is any easy way to know for sure until it gets bad
enough to throw a code and set the SES light. But if your car is
missing at idle and/or you hear an occasional pinging sound there's
a decent chance you have a coil going bad.

 

What does pinging sound like??

 

ping... ping... ping-aling.. ping.. ping.. ping....

 

Hold on folks......... i think we have a hit on our hands.



The noise you will most likely hear is a cross between BB's in a can and a diesel engine.

 

129K on mine, replaced with Autozone

 

can bad ones cause bad mileage?

 

Sure will.... The cylinder won't fire and the fuel that was added to that cylinder is wasted, i.e. never turned into power.

 

My coil went at 65K. Anybody know how much the part costs (not including labour)

 

my car is in the shop getting new coils and plugs installed right now.. the coils were shot before 60k.

 

Check the parts faq. Six coils + shipping from David Burnette (South Point Nissan) will run about $308 -- just over $51/each. His number is 888-254-6060. Email is daveb@adpub.com. You can replace them yourself in less than an hour. All you need is a 4mm allen wrench (to remove the front cover), a screw driver to depress the release clip on the connector, a 10mm socket and a ratchet + 10" extension. Each coil is held down with a single 10mm bolt.

 

At 55,000 miles, I have 5 coils being shipped courtesy of DaveB.

 

Dude, you could have done the whole job yourself in an hour for under $500

 

My 2k coils were garbage at 30k. Dealership DID replace them for nuthin gladly. What a huge difference in performance after they put the new ones in.

 

ima steal my new ones from my neighbors max. shes trading it in

 

The SES light is on. The code that Auto Zone shows says something like catalyst fault - right bank. The engine does miss and back fire occassionally. Could this be coil(s)? Can you check individual coils with OHM meter?

 

does the extended warranty cover the ignition coils?

 

yea is this covered by warranty?
I'M LOOKIN AT A 2000 MAX WITH 21K MILES (original warranty)

 

This one is most likely not a coil problem. What code came up? Common catalyst related codes are P0171 "Bank 1 Lean" which is usually is accompanied by the engine running rough or surging when cold. If so, your MAF is going. A P0420 "Catalyst Efficiency Low" is another common one on the 2K Max. this one requires the ECU be reprogrammed at the dealer.

 

Doubt you still have a warranty on that car at all. I bought a 4 yr 100k extended warranty b/c I drive alot. Most warranties up after 3 years.

However, yes it would be covered... Almost ANY SES code you would see would be covered, but I greatly doubt they would replace coils unless it trips a code.

 

Don't know if my problem is related to the ignition coils... I'm about to replace them, haven't heard a pinging noise or had any idle problems, but I do have a 2000 max with 111,000 miles (original coils)
Perhaps allenmason just gave me some insight, but (often enough) in the morning (when I first start my car), when I'm in 2nd or 3rd gear (5spd) and I give it about 50% or 75% throttle, the engine will 'lag' more than it does after it has warmed up... that is to say, in the 2000 - 3500 rpm range, I get about 50% of the power I should. When I hit 4000 rpm, the engine perks up back to normal and I'm able to get my go-fast on. That doesn't bother me so much, because I rarely ever want to speed in the morning, but sometimes the car shakes violently (mostly in a 3rd gear) like it's experiencing a fuel cut around 2-3.5k rpm.
I have to push in the clutch, and the problem goes away. Only does it while the engine is cold, and it has only happened 4 or 5 times. Could this be a MAF issue as allenmason has alluded to, or is this a sign of the ignition coils going out? Maybe something else? I don't even really know what the MAF does, so I have hardly any idea what a symptom of its imminent failure would be. Thanks.

 

i think most cars are much slower when cold
not to mention fuel economy = teh ****

i have a ka24de ... which is indestructible for a good 200,000 miles - and performance (as non existant as it is) ... is the last thing on the menu for breakfast

 

Why does this code require an ECU update? I just got this same code (P0420) pulled. Is there anything wrong with the cat or the o2 sensors.

Also got this code pulled - 1320 - anyone know what that means? It is not explained by the reader...

 

nice wheels,,,looks like you are ready for 4-wheeling

 

My coils didn't fail, they just acted up when moisture gets inside the plugs but functioned fine otherwise. The sound is something similar to a person gargling on water.

 

my dad has about 87k on his car, started to develop a studder. switch to copper plugs, went away

 

I have an 03 GXE and man this thing has started pinging like crazy, what are the chances that this could be the ignition coils? and so soon at 20,000 miles? Took it to the dealer and said it is normal, blah blah blah. This is NOT normal.

 

No suggestions?