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Old 01-27-2004 | 02:55 PM
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Alternator

Well, since it won't let me search I'll have to post. I have a 2000 SE Auto, loaded, and I'm having an issue where ALL of my lights flicker simultaneously. The headlights, dome lights, gauge cluster, etc all flicker. I called Autozone and it's too cold here in MN to test for free. Don't ask me why, but the guy said their machine isn't the best and doesn't work well in the cold. Maybe he just didn't want to freeze his nutz off. It is 0 to 5 degrees F here right now. Anyway, I called the dealer and they think it could be a bad diode in the alternator. I asked how much for a new alternator if needed and they quoted me with installation and tax $430+. My question is this, how much should I be paying for a new alternator (part only), and how much for install? Should I do it at the dealer, or is any garage fine? Lastly, if I'm going to get a new alternator, are there any good aftermarket ones, like maybe a heavy duty one? I don't have a booming system, just stock Bose, but I wouldn't mind the peace of mind of having more than necessary, kind of like buying a larger battery than recommended for cold starting purposes here in MN.

Any input appreciated. Oh, and could it be my COILS since I hear so many complaints about those here? I have 61K miles. No SES light on, but I do detect a VERY minor surging at idle. Lights flicker more at idle too.

Thanks
Old 01-27-2004 | 02:59 PM
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Make sure that the dealer is selling you a new alternator and not a reman. If it's a reman, you can probably get a better price at NAPA or Carquest with a better warranty than Nissan's. Do some checking and price shopping first. Ask for the price of the alt w/o installation.
Old 01-27-2004 | 03:04 PM
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How much for a new Alt from DaveB? You out there DaveB? Do I get a discount if I buy new coils and plugs at same time?
Old 01-27-2004 | 03:26 PM
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did you check to see if your battery cables are tight? I had one wiggle loose one time and do the same thing
Old 01-27-2004 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by s_hinerman
did you check to see if your battery cables are tight? I had one wiggle loose one time and do the same thing
Yep, checked and they seemed tight. I'll check again though since it was cold as a ***** when checked last time so I wasn't real thorough. I basically just wiggled them and they didn't budge.
Old 01-27-2004 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by charliekilo3
Make sure that the dealer is selling you a new alternator and not a reman. If it's a reman, you can probably get a better price at NAPA or Carquest with a better warranty than Nissan's. Do some checking and price shopping first. Ask for the price of the alt w/o installation.

I called the dealer back, this time talked to parts dept instead of service. They quoted me $343 for a reman, and he said that's all they get, they don't sell new ones. Only way to get new one is when you buy the car new.

I've found $274 for a Bosch reman at NAPA.

And $219.99 for a Duralast 100 amp from some other online site.
Old 01-27-2004 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by MNMaxi
I called the dealer back, this time talked to parts dept instead of service. They quoted me $343 for a reman, and he said that's all they get, they don't sell new ones. Only way to get new one is when you buy the car new.

I've found $274 for a Bosch reman at NAPA.

And $219.99 for a Duralast 100 amp from some other online site.
Nissan will only give you a 12 month warranty for all that $$$. The NAPA warranty is probably lifetime. I bought a NAPA for my KingCab from NAPA. It was a Nissan alternator. It might be worth it to get the NAPA part so in the event you need warranty replacement, it's easier than shipping it off somewhere else. You could probably change it yourself and save some money. If you go to buy the replacement, make sure you take your old one with you. That way you can match it up and you won't have to pay a core charge. Also, you might be able to get it tested to make sure it's bad. Good luck.
Old 01-27-2004 | 03:54 PM
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The dealer quoted $430 for parts and labor?!!

My alternator died this past October. Thank god it was under warranty. I would have had to pay $329 at the dealership. Now that I think about it, Sears Auto Center quoted me about 400 for parts and labor. Gotta check my notes.

My symptoms of a dead alternator were battery light and brake light remain lit while driving. See if you can get the battery checked also.
Old 01-27-2004 | 06:39 PM
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Before going to the dealership and spending about 400.00 , check out one more thing first.. look at your battery and find the negative cable .. now follow that cable all the way to where its mainly grounded.. that nut / screw MIGHT be loose. Also when i had my 4th Gen .. i got a re-manufactured alt. from kragen ( parts america ect.) for 135.00 with exchange.

-Anthony
Old 01-28-2004 | 03:03 AM
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yeah, DON'T buy one from Nissan--that's a RIDICULOUS price for a reman.

I doubt it's your coils either... flickering is definitely the electrical system.
Old 01-28-2004 | 06:49 AM
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Don't get the labor done at Nissan. Go to another local mechanic. Most jobs of this nature, which are pretty straight forward, I'm convinced are better taken to a mom & pop place, since labor rates are a lot less, and it's not like an alternator is hard labor.

I had mine replaced in my sentra last year and the mom and pop place recommended an OEM replacement because he said he'd seen too many cheapies from autozone just die shortly after (they have a warranty, but it won't cover labor). He had nothing to gain either way, but since I was paying a decent bit to have it installed I thought I'd go with a good alternator. If I was doing the labor myself I'd consider a cheapy, although getting stranded somewhere wouildn't be fun.
Old 01-28-2004 | 07:30 AM
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All good advice fellas, thanks. I think my next move is to go to dealer for the $39 electrical check, unless I can find that cheaper elsewhere also. Then if they say it's the alternator that's bad I'll buy one from NAPA and have the work done at a respectable local non-dealer shop. Also, sometimes when I come to a stop, the car's idle will seem slightly too low and I'll have a heavy vibrating feelign in the steering wheel, doesn't happen every time though, probably about 50/50. Could a bum alternator have anything to do with that, or does that sound like coils or something else? I'm to a point now with 4 years and 60K miles where I'm starting to think trade in if this crap is going on, or else sinking some cash in and getting it running tip top, like new plugs, coils, etc. Thanks.
Old 01-28-2004 | 07:35 AM
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A big tune up for your car will cost a whole crapload less than trading it in and buying a new one."Also, sometimes when I come to a stop, the car's idle will seem slightly too low and I'll have a heavy vibrating feelign in the steering wheel, doesn't happen every time though, probably about 50/50." Yeah it very well could be. When mine went bad the car drove like crap unless the RPM were fairly high. It would vibrate and I thought that the engine must be about dead (old car), but a new alternator fixed that all up. The guy said that the alternator was putting out so little juice that the plugs couldn't fire properly. That may not be the case, but anyway my symptoms were similar to yours.
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