thomasd cook

iTrader: (7)

I'm installing my UDP and I tried the bleep the starter method but I am also in the process of swapping springs out. I've got the strut assembly out of the way of the pulleys but when I braced the breaker bar against the control arm it wouldn't break the bolt and just kinda of lifted the control arm. The manual calls for a strap wrench to hold pulley tight while unbolting. If this works for breaking it can I do the same for tightening it? Thanks.
Doing installs alone sucks donkey nutz. I'm swapping springs, struts, UDP, RSB and FSB. But man I can't wait till it's done. The payoff will be well worth it.

Triple8Sol

iTrader: (29)

Where did you get all that stuff?

Good luck with the installs thomas. Wish I could help you on the UDP but, obviously, I haven't tried it myself either...

KCMichaelM

I did my UDP alone too.. FUUUUUUUUNNNNN!!!!

Here's what I did.. Yes remove your starter, if you haven't tried to yet I'll tell you it's a lot easier than you think. It's right on top! Then, I placed a crow bar in one of the teeth on the flywheel, I used a C-Clamp to lock it to something above the starter (don't remember what, this was 3 years ago). Once you crawl back under to loosen the pulley bolt just turn the crank slowly until the pressure is locked against the crowbar. Now turn hard!

Tightening it is much more difficult, as I spent a good hour by myself trying to setup the same scenario the other direction. It doesn't take much help (girlfriend?) just to balance the crowbar in a tooth while you tighten it. Eventually I got it, so it is possible.

The right tools make all the difference here... I was bending my 1/2" drive set so I went to a 3/4" breaker bar to loosen and then the 3/4" drive rachet to tighten, still bent the pin on that set too!

There is a place under the car you can get to the flywheel teeth after removing a small cover, but the opening was way too narrow for me to insert my crowbar.

You mentioned a strap wrench... Was that in the directions for the UDP?!? They have to be kidding... I had 2 feet up on the oil pan and pulling the breaker bar between my legs to loosen the main bolt. The manual says tighten to 36 ft-lbs plus another 60-66 degrees. Once you're done, that's a lot of torque!! Good luck!

thomasd cook

iTrader: (7)

I'm contemplating using my compressor and borrowing an impact gun to break the bolt. Would this also work on tightening that bolt?

KCMichaelM

Hmmmm... If it were my engine I wouldn't do that. You wouldn't want that much torque right away, but it kinda depends on how you have the flywheel locked. If I used that method, I'd bet I would have broken a flywheel tooth. You could sufficiently tighten the bolt with a 1/2" drive I believe. Loosening it is the problem.

When tightening, the service manual actually says to coat the threads and seat surface of the bolt with new engine oil (I promise!) . Then torque to 36 ft-lbs, plus 60-66 degrees (about the distance of one flat on the bolt head to the next.)

If I were you I'd torque it manually...

HNDA ETR

iTrader: (10)

This is what I did...

put the breaker bar on the FLOOR instead of the control arm.... then 'bleep' the motor...

bigdo26

iTrader: (3)

And as for getting the pulley back on, I tightened it as much as I could before it turned, then had a buddy brace one of the other pulleys while I gave it one more yank. Didnt use the torque wrench on it, but its plenty tight. Been on for ~8000 and no problems at all. Also a good idea would be to use some locktite on it.

thomasd cook

iTrader: (7)

I finally got it to break today. I postioned the breaker bar against the floor. I hit the starter like 2 or 3 times and on the last one I held it a hair longer and I heard it whine looked down and it had broke. I put oil around the new seal and on the end of the bolt. Then I ran around town trying to find a strap wrench to hold the pulley while I tightened it. After I found one I held it tight with one hand and with the other I torqued it to about 90lbs. I put the belts back on tightened them and let it run for a couple of minutes. Then I retensioned my belts and hit the pulley with one more pull to make sure. A strap wrench is definately the way to go about tightening the bolt. Now I can give install advice on this install.

HNDA ETR

iTrader: (10)

man... putting the bar on the floor is a great idea... I wonder who mentioned that...

thomasd cook

iTrader: (7)

Well I originally had it against the control arm. But it would just whack it and not break. After I wedged it against the floor, I noticed a few nice little nicks taken out of the concrete. It was definately on there. But the pulley itself slide right off.
Also I have many pics of install for both Maxspeed install and UDP install. I'll help with questions on install if needed. Thanks for the info HondaKilla.