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Bucking at 2,000

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Old 02-15-2004, 02:39 PM
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Bucking at 2,000

I have a "bucking" problem with my 2K SE 5sp. At about 2,000 rpm in any gear when the engine is cold, it misses, or bucks. I took it to the dealer recently for the 60,000 mi. tune up, and mentioned the problem. They said they would reprogram the ECM. That was about two weeks ago, and the bucking seems worse than before. Also, on two occasions, when I start it , it stalls immediately. It will do this until you gas it after starting.

Any thoughts?

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Old 02-15-2004, 03:17 PM
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So your car pulsates when you try to accelerate hard when you first start to drive your car in cold?
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Old 02-15-2004, 04:11 PM
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Sounds a lot like coil issues.
60K is about right.
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Old 02-15-2004, 05:27 PM
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I have the same thing happening to my car. When my car is cold, it hesitates and "bucks" violently. It feels like the car is missing IMO. I complained to my dealer about this when my car was under warranty and they couldnt find a problem.
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Old 02-15-2004, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by MAX2000JP
I have the same thing happening to my car. When my car is cold, it hesitates and "bucks" violently. It feels like the car is missing IMO. I complained to my dealer about this when my car was under warranty and they couldnt find a problem.
Problem goes away when your car is warm though?
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Old 02-15-2004, 07:48 PM
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my car "bucks" a lot since day 1, and only in 1st gear. There is just no way I could smoothly accelerate in 1st w/o car jerking. Learned to live w/that.
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Old 02-15-2004, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Ammi
Problem goes away when your car is warm though?

Yes, but the car still hesitates intermitantly when warm.
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Old 02-15-2004, 08:04 PM
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My 2000 Maxima

Hey guys...
I hope i can shine some light on this topic, because I too have had this problem. My 2000 GLE only has 50K. I took it in for the following reason, (i called it hard shifting) from first to second gear, and stalling out at idle. They told me that I had cracked selonids (sp?), my computer needed to be replaced, and I will most likely need a new transmission. He also mentioned that some of these things needed to be check on during the 60K check up because of a default. All of the things were under warranty, but now they are feeding me some bull that the computer is back-ordered for 1 week. I assume this is a serious problem, but won't tell me much...

jp
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Old 02-16-2004, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by MAX2000JP
Yes, but the car still hesitates intermitantly when warm.
My car pulsates when I try to accelerate hard when it's cold. When my car is warm, no more pulsating.

I've heard it's normal from other members and it's not coil problem.
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Old 02-16-2004, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Ammi
I've heard it's normal from other members and it's not coil problem.
My 2K se doesn't do that. It doesn't sound normal to me, especially if it doesn't go away completely when it's warm.
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Old 02-16-2004, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Ben
My 2K se doesn't do that. It doesn't sound normal to me, especially if it doesn't go away completely when it's warm.
How cold is it when you first start to drive?

Good thing that pulsating is there because it keeps me from gunning my car when engine is still cold Better for the car.
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Old 02-16-2004, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Ammi
I've heard it's normal from other members and it's not coil problem.
If this problem is normal, I will never buy a Nissan again. I think my car has a coil problem, I just dont really care to change them. I will be getting rid of this POS soon.
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Old 02-16-2004, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MAX2000JP
If this problem is normal, I will never buy a Nissan again. I think my car has a coil problem, I just dont really care to change them. I will be getting rid of this POS soon.

Jeez, being a bit rough on Nissan today. First off your (Cricket1's problem) problem is not normal, I had a similar though not drastic fuel cut-off issue that was fixed with a reprogram of the ECU. It is entirely possible that the computer could be toast. I would say take it to another dealer and have a written list of the problems as you experience them, and also check for TSBs relating to anything you are seeing.

And on the Nissan bashing, you have a mass-produced machine consisting of thousands of parts constantly in motion or use. People buy 2 million dollar Ferrari's and stuff breaks on them; it is the nature of machines to fail. The definition of a "perfect" machine is one with no moving parts. My family has bought 12 (one dozen) Nissans in the last 14 years. We have had the occasional problem, but nothing to cause a decision to not buy. Nissans customer satsfiaction ratings speak volumes. It is possible to get a bad car, but lemon laws should prevent this sort of headache. You might want to check with your BBB to find out your rights as a consumer.
I am a pilot and I LOVE Cessna's, but I have had an engine fail once and various small things such as radios crap out and friends have had pistons get holed and oil spray out and the engine totally die. When it comes to machines like that, parts fail and it can kill you, but guess what? I still trust Cessnas with my life. **** breaks, preventative maint. is your life saver. The basic machine is sound and the company understands that a good product brings customers back.
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Old 02-16-2004, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by PhatMax
Jeez, being a bit rough on Nissan today. First off your (Cricket1's problem) problem is not normal, I had a similar though not drastic fuel cut-off issue that was fixed with a reprogram of the ECU. It is entirely possible that the computer could be toast. I would say take it to another dealer and have a written list of the problems as you experience them, and also check for TSBs relating to anything you are seeing.

And on the Nissan bashing, you have a mass-produced machine consisting of thousands of parts constantly in motion or use. People buy 2 million dollar Ferrari's and stuff breaks on them; it is the nature of machines to fail. The definition of a "perfect" machine is one with no moving parts. My family has bought 12 (one dozen) Nissans in the last 14 years. We have had the occasional problem, but nothing to cause a decision to not buy. Nissans customer satsfiaction ratings speak volumes. It is possible to get a bad car, but lemon laws should prevent this sort of headache. You might want to check with your BBB to find out your rights as a consumer.
I am a pilot and I LOVE Cessna's, but I have had an engine fail once and various small things such as radios crap out and friends have had pistons get holed and oil spray out and the engine totally die. When it comes to machines like that, parts fail and it can kill you, but guess what? I still trust Cessnas with my life. **** breaks, preventative maint. is your life saver. The basic machine is sound and the company understands that a good product brings customers back.
I have taken very great care of my car, as far as preventative maintenence is concerned. I have religously changed the oil with Mobil 1, replaced the plugs, replaced the Fuel filter, PCV, etc etc. Nissan quality is far behind Honda and Toyota and it shows. I would love to take it to the dealer and get this fixed, but the car is no longer under warranty. I don't feel like paying money out of my pocket to fix a car that I will not keep very long.
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Old 02-16-2004, 04:17 PM
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its not a coil issue my 2000 se does it too and i just changed my coils
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Old 02-16-2004, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by cricket1
I have a "bucking" problem with my 2K SE 5sp. At about 2,000 rpm in any gear when the engine is cold, it misses, or bucks. I took it to the dealer recently for the 60,000 mi. tune up, and mentioned the problem. They said they would reprogram the ECM. That was about two weeks ago, and the bucking seems worse than before. Also, on two occasions, when I start it , it stalls immediately. It will do this until you gas it after starting.

Any thoughts?

Cricket1
Dirty air cleaner, dirty throttle body? Try changing to mobil gas and run 93 octane.
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Old 02-17-2004, 04:09 PM
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Thanks to all for the responses! A few other details. The bucking occurs whenever the outside temp is below about 40 degrees, and the engine is cold. Once it the engine warms up, the problem is gone. About 1/3 to 1/2 throttle when cold makes the bucking worst. It does it in 1st- 4th gears at around 2,000rpm. I always only run 93 octane, and just had a new air filter installed at the 60K service. It did not do this last winter at all. Started about 3 months ago. The worst part is the service manager drove it cold, and noticed the problem. He said it isnt throwing any codes, and since it still does it after the re-program, doesnt know what to do. Isn't it their job to find out????
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Old 02-17-2004, 04:54 PM
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It's their job to find out. If they can't figure out the problem, they need to give you a new Maxima
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