SkoorbMax

8mm isn't it, so I think it's either a 9mm or a 10 mm metric. I'm guessing 1.25 pitch? My Haynes says to use one of the right thread size <- thanks for nothing, haynes!

Does anybody know which bolt size to use?

Spin20

iTrader: (4)

Did you try to use a rubber mallet? I sprayed some WD-40 on mine around the studs and tapped the rotor and it came off.

SkoorbMax

I tried briefly last night, but it was too late to give it a good go. I can probably do it with a mallet, but I wanted to have some screws just in case, because I hate having to drive 10-15 min to the tool store every time I need extra stuff

tkostiuk4

use a rubber mallet, if you don't want to use one then it doesn't really matter if the screw is the right size for your not keeping the rotors are you?

SkoorbMax

Huh? I'm going to try the rubber mallet, but if it doesn't work I want the real bolts and if I know what they are I can pick them up when I'm at home depot (which I have to go to anyway), thus saving me a big hassel later

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

good question, I was wondering the same thing....thanks for nothing Haynes!

Interesting, the 2k4 rotors I am putting on do not have the screw holes on them at all......

I have taken the rotors off before and you can do it with some brute force and some tapping of a mallet...

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Metric or standard will work. I believe the metric size is a 12MM head. In standard that equates to about 5/9. YOu have some leeway with that.

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

I turned my rotors in my Maxima a few times (pads are the culprit of warping rotors btw I did my own R&D here) I just wack the rotors with a hammer right in the hub part of it, that frees up the rust and rotor usually just pops right off. Gets some Hawk HPS pads for it !!

SkoorbMax

Thanks guys - I ended up actually getting the rotor off quite easily with my mallet. I'd also heard about tapping the rust away by nailing the center of the hub with a hammer, but it turned out to be unecessary. I'm really trying to keep expenses to a minimum, so I'm thinking about resurfacing the rotors at $15/pop vs. $50/pop shipped for brembo blanks or $70 shipped/each for nissan OEM from dave B. What do you think? Here is a picture of the front left rotor to see its condition (some of the funny markings are just rust - it looks pretty good close up, except for the darker "ridge" in the middle, which you can't really feel).

"pads are the culprit of warping rotors btw I did my own R&D here" What do you recommend? If I end up turning my rotors I am going to go with local pads, so autozone ($34/pair carbon metallic), or OEM $70/pair.

BTW I drive quite gently and am not hard on my brakes.

SkoorbMax

Bumpers!

cobymoby

iTrader: (2)

I've had good results from the Performance Friction carbon metalic. i think that they are available from most local auto parts stores. I went through 3 sets of front rotors (all OEM) with the OEM pads. This was all in one year. They don't take performance driving very well and would start to smoke on me after driving hard for a while.

After switching over to the Perf Fric pads and a new set of rotors my problems were gone. On my second set of perf fric pads on the same set of rotors. i didn't have to turn them.

Maxpat82

They look in good shape to me!!!
If there's no groove on them why resurface them?
Are they wrapped!!

SkoorbMax

Good to hear about the performance friction pads - I think they're the ones I'm eying.

"Are they wrapped!!" I think they are! I've got some healthy throbbing/vibrating when braking from medium to highspeed at medium to high braking. I plan on turning/resurfacing them, and then throwing on the new pads.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

Back to the original subject -
I just switched rotors to day (see BlehmCo thread) and used the screw to counter-screw the rotors off (which is VERY easy - takes about 1 full turn and its off).

Anyhow, the screw is a 10mm, 1.25 pitch, fine thread.

SkoorbMax

Thanks for the answer