Has anyone installed these on the SE or GLE with electronic motor mounts? I need to know where they disconnect. Any tricks to getting the rear bolt off? Any help is appreciated!

 

Never tried them, however I might want to add that if you're looking to reduce wheel hop, consider getting Tokico Illumina struts (not sure if any of the other aftermarket struts have this same effect, but Illuminas have dramatically reduced wheel hop in my case)

 

ok, installed with minor problems, but other than that the car feels more solid and even the shifts with the valve body are smoother, take offs have very little lag actually barked the tires a few times today. the vibrations are there but not nearly as bad as my friends altima with them. i would definitely recommend them, but would probably do other power adding mods first considering their price. just thought i would leave a little feedback.

 

Where can you get the PR Motor mounts??

 

same question for me as well...

 

www.cattman.com has them, but does anyone have them cheaper?

 

If you want to go the cheap route, then just take an old pair of mounts, and just drill them out, and then fill them up with #80 or #90 urethane. Takes about 2-3days to fully cure.

I got an extra set of Auto electric mounts if anyone wants them.

Dixit

 

After installing the pr mounts did you feel that car drives and handles more solidly?
The reason I am asking this, I am not planning to get PR mounts, but I am trying to get Nissan to fix my broken/messed up engine mounts. About half a year ago I went to track and after one of the hard take offs I broke rear engine mount. It started to make loud clunk sound everytime I took off.
So I went to Nissan and they replaced the rear engine mount. I was happy until I drove the car. The clunk sound was gone, but the car drove like crap. Felt very loose and all over the road.
So I started to think maybe other mounts are messed up too, or maybe new rear engine mount they instaled was not working right.
I read somewhere that engine mounts especially in fwd cars can really affect car's alignment, handling, etc.
So now I am still trying to get Nissan to replace other engine mounts as I think that is the cause for my car driving like crap.

 

Well could be a defective mount or they forgot to hookup the wire to that mount since you are an SE.

Dixit

 

Since I have not actually pulled the mounts, I suspect that they are some kind of rubber inside a metal bracket. So I have a few questions as I think my rear MM is toast.

1) Do you drill out all the rubber or just an "amount"?
2) Where would I get the urethane? I am assuming #80 has more give and #90 is more "solid".
3) Do you need any kind of "mold" or just sit it in a pan and pour the urethane in and trim off the excess?
4) Anybody have good pics of the Maximas MM?

Sorry for the nOOb like questions, but I can have the vibration of the PR's, dont want to install the stock either...this seems like a good medium option to try.

Thanks!

 

1) Well you basically drill/cut out majority of the rubber but leave enough that holds the center shaft still inplace. If you drill/cut it all out, then the center shaft will fall out. You need that where it is.

2) Urethane is almost available anywhere, mainly online. Like Grainger, Maintenance Warehouse. #80 is softer than #90. Most use #80.

3) No mold, just tape one side of the mount with duct tape VERY VERY well in that when you pour in the urethane make sure it cant find a way out. I know 100s of people who pour it in, come back 1hr later to find it all seeped out and now is on the floor.

4) http://www.turbofedmax.com/fullpics/motormounts/ Shows pics of a stock mount, and filled mount off a 2k2 6spd. My car is a 2k1 auto (when i installed it, now a 5spd).

Dixit

 

Yeah maybe it is defective. I looked under the car and didn't see any wires there, I think SE 6-speed doesn't have electronically controlled mounts.

Question I still have, can damaged mounts make the car drive this way(loose)?
I know that Maxima has one rear, one front mount, one top mount on passenger side and one mount that is attached to transmisson mount on driver side.

Nissan keeps telling me that mounts look fine, I mean even when rear mount was definetly busted because the car was making loud clunking sound when taking off, they were still saying that everything looks fine. So I might try to get them to replace all 4 mounts and see if that will make the car drive as it should.

 

I'm pretty sure damaged mounts can make the car drive kinda "loose" or sloppy... especially when you get on the throttle. Think wheel hop but 10x worse.

 

Dixit,

Thats great information. Its exactly what I needed to go do this.

One last question(s)

I was thinking of leaving the center piece (if its not ripped up to bad) attached at two points, kinda like --> (-o-) and fill the "goop" in around it. Sound good/bad?

Just fill the mount from "edge to edge"?

Hints or points on taking out the rear mount w/o running into any huge issues?

Thanks again.

 

The 6 speeds do not have electronically controlled mounts.

 

thanks Dixit for helping me with my post!! As far as handling, the car feels much more solid and the mounts are settling in pretty well. A few more vibrations, but it is not all that bad. Overall the car drives much better feels like there is less torque steer and acceleration is very smooth. Also I had the electronic liquid filled mounts. I noticed when i would cut the car off I would sometimes hear a buzzing and when stopped at a red light the lights would dim on the car. Now when I am stopped, the lights remain bright and there is no fluctuation.

 

what is the purpose of the stock electronic motor mounts? why are they electric and is what is controlling/sensing them? obviouly the "pr" motor mounts are better by general consensus, how do these bad boys cost?

 

That would be fine to leave the center part at two points. Just fill it edge to edge. If it comes out farther, still no biggie, just make sure its not protruding farther than the center shaft when looking at it from the side. Otherside the Engine Mount brace wont go around it.

You can remove the entire center section (both front and rear mounts) beam without having to hold the engine. There are still the left and right mounts holding the engine in place. Removing the mounts are fairly easy once you get the car high enough up.

Dixit

 

so the electronic motor mounts are on the auto maximas, not manual tranny maxes?