Sup yall, I was wondering has any of you ever noticed that when you are parked or sitting at a light when the cooling fans come on your lights dim or when you let your window up with the auto touch they kinda dim as well. Battery or Altenator?

 

Gotta be the battery...

The alt is 110 amp. That is pretty high for family sedan. My nissan 4x4 truck had only a 60 amp. I even had a 3 amp stereo system in that and never had the lights dim.

When the accessory in question is drawing current from the alt it is a "constant" power supply, if a sudden "boost" in power is required from another accessory or the one in question it draws that spike from the battery. That is why you have a capacitor in a high power stereo system. The capacitor stores the energy for quick bursts of power release when the system needs it. That's just a brief explanation why, but its you battery.

 

Could be *both* are getting close to failing. The same symptoms appeared on my Maxima just before it puked. I couldn't even jump-start the car after that. If the alternator starts to go bad, it degrades the battery. If the battery has a bad cell, it overworks the alternator. It's a deteriorating downward spiral for both items... I ended up with a new OEM alternator and a yellow-top Optima battery. Good luck.

 

Why you choose Optima battery instead of Die-Hard or something.

 

I shopped specs on several batteries, and the Optima was the best I found. It is sealed, so I could put it in my trunk* and not worry about it venting poisonous gases into the passenger compartment. There were other reasons, too, but I can't remember them now! (Sorry, but it has been some time since I had it installed.)

*-Why did I put the battery in the trunk? To free space in the engine bay for a cold air intake. I'm planning to run a 3" aluminum air-intake tube from a cone filter in the left-front wheel well, up through a small, ice-filled reservoir, and over to the throttle-body. If it even looks like it'll work, I'll call it a "Chillen" cold air intake! :-)

 

The optima batteries are good in that they are like a deep cycle marine battery. that means they can provide continuous power for a longer period of time. so why don't we all just put deep cycles in our cars. b/c of the charging time. you have to charge them for a longer time to get them back to full charge. these optima batteries are kinda like the best of both worlds. they have a quick recharge time, yet for the same cranking amps they are able to provide current for longer times. comes in handy for audio competitions. you don't always have your car running and a 1000 watt system will drain you battery quicker than s*** through a goose. These batteries allow you to crank it up for longer periods w/o the worry of a dead battery and still being able to start your car afterward.

also from what i have heard about them, they produce a constant power output. for stereo applications again it is optimal that the voltage supplied be constant and these batteries have the ability as well.

but those are why some people get them. like what bullseye said he wanted a sealed battery. if he were to take a diehard and put it into the trunk he would have to get a sealed battery box to keep the fumes out. it then must be vented outside though so more mods are necessary.

 

So you can pretty much say that an Optima battery is better that a die hard or any other battery. what are the cranking amps on an Optima?

 

yeah but depends. do you wanna pay $140-180 for a battery that has features you may not need? If you don't need those features then its not better!

you can check them out at

http://www.accessconnect.com/optima.htm

 

Ok
That pretty steep for a battery for basic oprations but what would you or any one else recomend next??

 

basic battery, just about any of them are gonna be fine. just get a no maint. battery and you should be fine. yeah the die hard is good and my fav. are the el cheapo's from autozone of something. and hey they install