Well, my order of Drilled Stillen Rotors and Metal Axis Pads came in today and I was pysched to get to the AutoCrafts Shop where i work to put them on. I spent just over $350.00 for everything. Well, it was easy to put on and they look incredible. Every Max should have the drilled rotors , they should actually come with the car. Anyways, I now have to take it easy for about 300 miles to break them in. There's a coating of cadium on the rotors and they advised to slowly break them in till its all off. Also while driving home, there was the sound of the breaks, a deep humming sound and a little vibration. I read the information they sent for installation and it advises that for the first 50 miles it will do this till the cadium is off so not to worry. I will take some pictures in a bit and put them on here tonight for anyone who wants to see what they look like!!

 

 

nice, how was the install? Did your stock roders warp?

 

Well, I had gotten my Rotors cut at 11,457 miles and they didn't replace the pads when they did it. So now with 24,013 miles on the Max the car was shaking again when applying the brakes. So I took it to Nissan and they advised me that the warranty was for 12,000 miles and 12 months. So I was over the milage by about 1000 or so miles. This ****ed me off and I am fighting Nissan on this big time. Anyways, back to the Rotors, took me about 15 minutes per Rotor. Not bad at all!! While I was doing that work on the MAX, My wife calls me and tells me that my TEIN H Springs were delivered. Well that will be the next install. I have to wait for the REar Sway Bar so I can do both at the same time.

 

very nice. BTW, are these any bigger than the stock rotors?

 

That humming sound is actually the pad going over the holes in the rotor. You will always have that under light to medium braking.

 

Same size as OEm but its good american steel compared to the cheap japanese steel nissan uses

 

No, this is a different sound. I don't hear it at low speeds but while getting up in speeds around 55 to 65 there is a loud rumbling sound plus it was vibrating a bit. So I am not sure if what they say here below is what the noise is. byt I will find out tomorrow after I drive. I just put on 25 miles so another 25 or so and I will see if the noise is still there.

I read the sheet that with the rotors and it says, that for the first 50 miles of driving the cadmium on the rotor friction surface will burn off, this is normal. During the burn off period, some of the cadmium material may build up on the rotor and/or pad. this build up can cause vibration but don't be alarmed. Once the cadmium has completly burned off, the vibration will subside

 

Mine are due soon after 24xxx miles of abuse. Not a fan of drilled so i'll go with slotted perhaps. Or neither. Hoping i wouldn't have to change rotors with half good brake pads.




Make sure to update us once you've driven for a while. My (not stock but aftermarket dealer cheapos) make a humming noise under certain braking conditions as well, and i think it's a pretty nice sound actually.

 

I'd be surprised if that makes a difference... (aside from the fact that rotors are NOT made of steel, they're solid iron)

 

BS. They cut my rotors (front) at 30K+ miles when I brought it in just before the warranty expired. The pads are a wear item so they would not replace but the rotors shouldn't fad that early.

 

Well, It's been a few days now since I put on the Drilled Rotors from the Brake Pros at Stillen and all i can say is INCREDIBLE The Max doesn't vibrate at all when stopping, it feels so much better then before with the OEM rotors even after Nissan cut them!!. Also with the Metal Matrix Pads, It just stops when I want it to no matter how fast I am going. Now all I have to do is order up some nice Steel braided brake lines along with Performance ATE® Super Blue brake fluid to make the brakes as tight as possible.

 

if you would, let us know where and how much you get the braided lines and fluid from.

thanks

 

Well, Since I ordered my Rotors and Pads from the Brake Pro's at Stillen, I will probably get the Steel Braided Lines and Brake Fluid from them also. Here is a photo of what the Steel Braided Lines Look like and Motul Brake Fluid.

 

That humming/airplane engine sound coming from the holes has bothered me for months...considering returning stock rotors or going to a slotted rotor instead. Real pi$$er since I like the look of the rotor...but that sound is frustrating.

 

I don't mind the sound at all, I actually can barely hear it with the windows upo or down. Plus I don't want to have to deal with the Rotors Warping so fast anymore. At least with the Drilled Rotors, some air can get into the Rotor and keep it a little bit cooler. Plus the slotted rotors will also make the noise that the drilled ones do. Theres no way of getting around that unless you just have plain rotors!

 

Have you actually compared the two...I've never driven on slotted rotors, but I have friends with them and there is no such sound.

 

The sound I get is a very very low rubbing sound, barley able to hear it. I guess it really depends on what type of pads you get for the drilled or slotted rotors. I had just gotten home a little while ago and with the sunroof open, windows closed I could barely hear it. It actually sounded good to me and was reassuring to know my brakes are working compared to the OEM warped rotors. I guess it would be to each his own on what he likes or dispikes with the setup.

 

thanks for the info. i just installed my powerslot (slotted) front breaks w/hawk pads yesterday. i haven't been able to really test them out yet b/c im trying to follow the break in procedure VERY closely. i don't want any issues. anyway, i did do 3 hard stints of heavy breaking from 50-10 mph as per instructions after i installed them and i heard no humming sound or anything. the only sound that i heard today driving to and from work was the loud (and expected) screeching sound from the hawp pro performance plus pads. it only did this at a certain pressure and sould lessen as the pads break in. anyway, stainless steel lines and a brake fluid flush and change are definatly on the way... thanks again for the info

mad2kmax

 

Well, The new rotors and pads are working as I had hoped, perfect stopping and no more brake judder. Now I just have to get some performance brake fluid and stainless steel lines and I will be set!!

 

I've got the same setup (in the front, rears are stock) and I like them too. I get the noise under fairly heavy braking, and I can tolerate it. They are beginning to warp, however, after about 20K of 80% highway driving. It's very minor so far. I'm just hoping that they'll last the life of the pads. I like the look but I like rotors that don't warp more. I think I will try frozen rotors next, I have heard good things. I figured that drilling would allow the rotor to cool better, therefore reducing warpage, but have recently heard the theory that drilling weakens the rotors, thereby increasing the chance of warpage. Can't win. The rotors in my '82 Malibu never warped. Same for my '81 Civic. Every car since has had rotor warp issues. Did they start making rotors out of crap in the 90's? Maybe I just started driving harder.

 

nice i'm running, the same cross drilled you got BUT i got rebestos ceramic pads instead.... Way better braking than stock

 

truth: slotted/cross-drilled rotors look nice and sporty
truth: slotted/cross-drilled rotors dissipate heat better only when under heavy, repeated braking.
truth: slotted/cross-drilled rotors reduce pad life
truth: slotted/cross-drilled rotors will always make a low rumbling sound to some extent.
truth: nobody here has proven **** that "frozen" rotors will do any better resisting warping compared with other OEM-size rotors.

MYTH: slotted/cross-drilled rotors are less likely to warp compared to OEM. I think we've seen PLENTY of people with various sl/cd rotors that have had them warp. The warping is not caused only by overheating...it's also caused by a buildup/uneven wear of pad material on the rotors, but the bottom line is, the SIZE of our rotors is too small, no matter what brand they are.

The way to aviod warpage is to go to a LARGER rotor....2k4 rotor with the BlehmCo kit or a true BBK.

MYTH: "every car has rotor warpage issues"
Yeah right. My 87 acura had 230,000 miles on it, never had the rotors turned not a single time. Braking was smooth as butter. Same with my 92 accord with 130,000 miles. My wife's Jetta was a TOTAL POS in many many ways, but the rotors were never a problem. Neither did her 92 corolla after 150,000 miles.

it's not japanese iron that's bad
it's the poor design of the maxima braking system that did it...too small rotors on too big a car.