BlehmCo BBK...review and some pics...
05-09-2004, 06:37 PM
#1
Old Fuddy Duddy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
BlehmCo BBK...review and some pics...
OK...I have had my BBK for about 1 full month now and figured it would be time for a review.
Wear:
Today I pulled it apart, to see how things were wearing and if anything funky was going on. Right now I have a "ridge" on my pads at the very top, as if the full pad is not on the rotor. Not sure what long term effect of this is. Maybe quicker pad consumption? That seems to be the only usage negative that I can come up with so far. No squeaking (I used the Nissan 300Z shim kit and any squeaks are now history). I also used anti-seaze grease as my anti-squeak grease
Performance:
Well, lets say that I spanked out a personal best of 108ft. 60-0.
I was using the same road, same conditions (as much as possible...atmospherice temp was 10 degrees more) and tires had accumlated 380 miles since last test. I was averaging stops of 112.789 with the new equipment.
BUT, tires are the limit of the connection to the road...I had to really learn how to modulate the pedal to get the stops down that far. Just cant romp them like I used to w/o the anti-locks getting all happy. I was drifting into higher stopping number becuase the ABS was kickin.
Pedal feel is GREAT. I put on the SS lines and its is FIRMER than stock with rubber lines. I think this is the BEST part of the whole kit. No more mushy crappy yucky Nissan pedal. I really think most would get a better feel just doing the SS lines.
Also no fade. I was pounding these brakes and for sure, they "could" be tracked happily. I dont track so thats pure suggestion/assumption.
Pics:
Wear:
Today I pulled it apart, to see how things were wearing and if anything funky was going on. Right now I have a "ridge" on my pads at the very top, as if the full pad is not on the rotor. Not sure what long term effect of this is. Maybe quicker pad consumption? That seems to be the only usage negative that I can come up with so far. No squeaking (I used the Nissan 300Z shim kit and any squeaks are now history). I also used anti-seaze grease as my anti-squeak grease
Performance:
Well, lets say that I spanked out a personal best of 108ft. 60-0.
I was using the same road, same conditions (as much as possible...atmospherice temp was 10 degrees more) and tires had accumlated 380 miles since last test. I was averaging stops of 112.789 with the new equipment.
BUT, tires are the limit of the connection to the road...I had to really learn how to modulate the pedal to get the stops down that far. Just cant romp them like I used to w/o the anti-locks getting all happy. I was drifting into higher stopping number becuase the ABS was kickin.
Pedal feel is GREAT. I put on the SS lines and its is FIRMER than stock with rubber lines. I think this is the BEST part of the whole kit. No more mushy crappy yucky Nissan pedal. I really think most would get a better feel just doing the SS lines.
Also no fade. I was pounding these brakes and for sure, they "could" be tracked happily. I dont track so thats pure suggestion/assumption.
Pics:
05-09-2004, 07:33 PM
#2
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 838
Colonel, so everyone would have comparable numbers, I copied the 60-0 data from your previous thread on the stock brakes. Here it is....
"Went to my favorite spot to do some brake testing. I did 10 runs in about 25-30 minutes. Each run was accompanied by about a 2 minute cycle to get turned around, cool brakes and set up for next run.
1) 148 Ft (ouch)
2) 141
3) 132
4) 135
5) 127 (wow)
6) 129 (smoked something as a puff of smoke came from right front after stopping)
7) 133
8) 138
9) 137
10) 142
I used a borrowed G-tech unit. I "assumed" it was level at start with a .00 tilt and at the end of the run it was a -.01 tilt. Close enough I guess.
So I guess I am going to use these as my baseline numbers. Obviously as the brakes heated up I got some better stops, but by run 7 I believe that they were starting to overheat a bit.
Other notes:
1) Temp was between 69 - 71.
2) No direct sunlight
3) only 20 miles on a full tank of gas
4) Michelin Pilot A/S with about 11K on them. Rotated at 5K intervals.
What do y'all think...good enough for comparison?"
Copied from this link.http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=297437
To go from 127ft. on the stock brakes, to 108ft. on the new brakes, thats a HUGE improvement. Nice with someone that has G-Tech data to show the improvement over stock. And yes, I have the same setup, mine was the test mule for the system.
Mike
"Went to my favorite spot to do some brake testing. I did 10 runs in about 25-30 minutes. Each run was accompanied by about a 2 minute cycle to get turned around, cool brakes and set up for next run.
1) 148 Ft (ouch)
2) 141
3) 132
4) 135
5) 127 (wow)
6) 129 (smoked something as a puff of smoke came from right front after stopping)
7) 133
8) 138
9) 137
10) 142
I used a borrowed G-tech unit. I "assumed" it was level at start with a .00 tilt and at the end of the run it was a -.01 tilt. Close enough I guess.
So I guess I am going to use these as my baseline numbers. Obviously as the brakes heated up I got some better stops, but by run 7 I believe that they were starting to overheat a bit.
Other notes:
1) Temp was between 69 - 71.
2) No direct sunlight
3) only 20 miles on a full tank of gas
4) Michelin Pilot A/S with about 11K on them. Rotated at 5K intervals.
What do y'all think...good enough for comparison?"
Copied from this link.http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=297437
To go from 127ft. on the stock brakes, to 108ft. on the new brakes, thats a HUGE improvement. Nice with someone that has G-Tech data to show the improvement over stock. And yes, I have the same setup, mine was the test mule for the system.
Mike
05-10-2004, 04:47 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 631
[QUOTE=Colonel]OK...I have had my BBK for about 1 full month now and figured it would be time for a review.
Wear:
Today I pulled it apart, to see how things were wearing and if anything funky was going on. Right now I have a "ridge" on my pads at the very top, as if the full pad is not on the rotor. Not sure what long term effect of this is. Maybe quicker pad consumption? That seems to be the only usage negative that I can come up with so far. No squeaking (I used the Nissan 300Z shim kit and any squeaks are now history). I also used anti-seaze grease as my anti-squeak grease
----> As you mentioned 300z shims, I assume you have 300z calipers right?
As far as the ridge on the pad. I just helped a guy do his front brakes on a full size Chevy Z71 pickup and he had the same deal - Once the ridge gets bigger, they will start squicking. Once of his pads cracked because of the ridge hitting imperfections on the top side of the rotor ...
Wear:
Today I pulled it apart, to see how things were wearing and if anything funky was going on. Right now I have a "ridge" on my pads at the very top, as if the full pad is not on the rotor. Not sure what long term effect of this is. Maybe quicker pad consumption? That seems to be the only usage negative that I can come up with so far. No squeaking (I used the Nissan 300Z shim kit and any squeaks are now history). I also used anti-seaze grease as my anti-squeak grease
----> As you mentioned 300z shims, I assume you have 300z calipers right?
As far as the ridge on the pad. I just helped a guy do his front brakes on a full size Chevy Z71 pickup and he had the same deal - Once the ridge gets bigger, they will start squicking. Once of his pads cracked because of the ridge hitting imperfections on the top side of the rotor ...
05-10-2004, 05:21 AM
#6
Originally Posted by UMD_MaxSE
I get my Z calipers and hardware today hopefully... Rotors will take longer since I ordered slotted only... looking forward to it 
and now, for a haiku...
I hate my car's brakes
They make me fear every damn stop
BlehmCo solves it all
)
05-10-2004, 06:28 AM
#7
Old Fuddy Duddy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Originally Posted by kwd2kSE
Colonel, so everyone would have comparable numbers, I copied the 60-0 data from your previous thread on the stock brakes. Here it is...
To go from 127ft. on the stock brakes, to 108ft. on the new brakes, thats a HUGE improvement. Nice with someone that has G-Tech data to show the improvement over stock. And yes, I have the same setup, mine was the test mule for the system.
Mike
To go from 127ft. on the stock brakes, to 108ft. on the new brakes, thats a HUGE improvement. Nice with someone that has G-Tech data to show the improvement over stock. And yes, I have the same setup, mine was the test mule for the system.
Mike
Would you mind (I know..BIG request) popping off a caliper and checking to see if you get a ridge in the pad. Its going to be the side closest to the outer diameter of the rotor. I need to make sure I did not assemble wrong (not TOO likely...but possible) or there is a measurement thingy happening.
Thank!
05-10-2004, 06:30 AM
#8
Old Fuddy Duddy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Originally Posted by schernov
----> As you mentioned 300z shims, I assume you have 300z calipers right?
As far as the ridge on the pad. I just helped a guy do his front brakes on a full size Chevy Z71 pickup and he had the same deal - Once the ridge gets bigger, they will start squicking. Once of his pads cracked because of the ridge hitting imperfections on the top side of the rotor ...
As far as the ridge on the pad. I just helped a guy do his front brakes on a full size Chevy Z71 pickup and he had the same deal - Once the ridge gets bigger, they will start squicking. Once of his pads cracked because of the ridge hitting imperfections on the top side of the rotor ...
05-10-2004, 08:18 AM
#10
Old Fuddy Duddy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Originally Posted by teddibear703
i think the ridge is caused by the relocation bracket being slightly to high, thus there's no contact on the area causing the ridge? maybe the relocation bracket should be moved down a littl?
05-10-2004, 08:42 AM
#11
The problem with it is that the 300ZX calipers and pads are designed for an 11" rotor, and we're putting them on a 12.6" rotor. the shape is different and you can't stick the caliper all the way down like you could with the 11" rotor.
It's a tradeoff, but it's not going to hurt anything. I've seen many other systems like this (as well as my Wilwoods I've been using for over 2 years), and the only drawback to it is that you're missing that 1/2% of the pad's surface area on the rotor.
If you can move the calipers down a bit, it might help- but make sure it doesn't rubthe rotor. There's a little movement in the bolt holes so you should be able to loosen the bolts and move it a mm or so, but I'm not sure if that will fix the issue or not on yours. I left a little extra in them just to make sure they'd fit everyone's car. you never know if they've had a wheel bearing changed and things are a little out of whack.
It's a tradeoff, but it's not going to hurt anything. I've seen many other systems like this (as well as my Wilwoods I've been using for over 2 years), and the only drawback to it is that you're missing that 1/2% of the pad's surface area on the rotor.
If you can move the calipers down a bit, it might help- but make sure it doesn't rubthe rotor. There's a little movement in the bolt holes so you should be able to loosen the bolts and move it a mm or so, but I'm not sure if that will fix the issue or not on yours. I left a little extra in them just to make sure they'd fit everyone's car. you never know if they've had a wheel bearing changed and things are a little out of whack.
05-10-2004, 08:53 AM
#12
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
The problem with it is that the 300ZX calipers and pads are designed for an 11" rotor, and we're putting them on a 12.6" rotor. the shape is different and you can't stick the caliper all the way down like you could with the 11" rotor.
It's a tradeoff, but it's not going to hurt anything. I've seen many other systems like this (as well as my Wilwoods I've been using for over 2 years), and the only drawback to it is that you're missing that 1/2% of the pad's surface area on the rotor.
If you can move the calipers down a bit, it might help- but make sure it doesn't rubthe rotor. There's a little movement in the bolt holes so you should be able to loosen the bolts and move it a mm or so, but I'm not sure if that will fix the issue or not on yours. I left a little extra in them just to make sure they'd fit everyone's car. you never know if they've had a wheel bearing changed and things are a little out of whack.
It's a tradeoff, but it's not going to hurt anything. I've seen many other systems like this (as well as my Wilwoods I've been using for over 2 years), and the only drawback to it is that you're missing that 1/2% of the pad's surface area on the rotor.
If you can move the calipers down a bit, it might help- but make sure it doesn't rubthe rotor. There's a little movement in the bolt holes so you should be able to loosen the bolts and move it a mm or so, but I'm not sure if that will fix the issue or not on yours. I left a little extra in them just to make sure they'd fit everyone's car. you never know if they've had a wheel bearing changed and things are a little out of whack.
05-10-2004, 11:29 AM
#13
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 838
Originally Posted by Colonel
Hey Mike!
Would you mind (I know..BIG request) popping off a caliper and checking to see if you get a ridge in the pad. Its going to be the side closest to the outer diameter of the rotor. I need to make sure I did not assemble wrong (not TOO likely...but possible) or there is a measurement thingy happening.
Thank!
Would you mind (I know..BIG request) popping off a caliper and checking to see if you get a ridge in the pad. Its going to be the side closest to the outer diameter of the rotor. I need to make sure I did not assemble wrong (not TOO likely...but possible) or there is a measurement thingy happening.
Thank!
05-10-2004, 11:32 AM
#14
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 838
Originally Posted by spirilis
Cool, so this shouldn't be a problem for OEM calipers?
Mike
05-10-2004, 11:36 AM
#15
colonel.....I'm assuming you're using the 300ZX calipers. I am using my OEM calipers and I also get the small ridge on the top of the pad where it does not contact the rotor.....doesn't seem to be a problem.
05-10-2004, 11:41 AM
#16
Originally Posted by irish44j
colonel.....I'm assuming you're using the 300ZX calipers. I am using my OEM calipers and I also get the small ridge on the top of the pad where it does not contact the rotor.....doesn't seem to be a problem.
05-10-2004, 12:18 PM
#18
Old Fuddy Duddy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Originally Posted by UMD_MaxSE
Just got my calipers, pads, SS lines, hardware, and shim kit... just waiting on rotors now...
Thanks Larrio!
Thanks Larrio!
BTW, the little clips in you shim kit goes on the bottom of each pad. It holds the slotted and solid shim close to the backing plate of the pad. You have 2 of each shaped the same way. The gold packet is Nissans anti-squeal, but its really anti-seaze. So go buy a tube of the silver kind and use liberally. If you already knew this stuff...consider it a broadcast to the public then...hehe.
Over all, I am going to play the wait and see game with the pads...I inspect my car often (as I am a geek and tinker with my car almost all the time) so I am not to worried about failure of the pad.
As for the ridge itself squeeking....Ill wait and see on that one too.
05-10-2004, 12:24 PM
#19
Old Fuddy Duddy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Originally Posted by irish44j
colonel.....I'm assuming you're using the 300ZX calipers. I am using my OEM calipers and I also get the small ridge on the top of the pad where it does not contact the rotor.....doesn't seem to be a problem.
But (devils advocate here, take a such) as you wear into your pad more and more, you are going to get a "hangy" of pad. I am "guessing" that its possible for this to break off? If so, is the pad integrity compromised?
I am not pulling the system out, as these brakes are awesome for me. Just need to make sure I understand everything and maintain it properly.
05-10-2004, 01:52 PM
#20
Originally Posted by Colonel
I will say this...you are going to like them. I surely did myself!
BTW, the little clips in you shim kit goes on the bottom of each pad. It holds the slotted and solid shim close to the backing plate of the pad. You have 2 of each shaped the same way. The gold packet is Nissans anti-squeal, but its really anti-seaze. So go buy a tube of the silver kind and use liberally. If you already knew this stuff...consider it a broadcast to the public then...hehe.
BTW, the little clips in you shim kit goes on the bottom of each pad. It holds the slotted and solid shim close to the backing plate of the pad. You have 2 of each shaped the same way. The gold packet is Nissans anti-squeal, but its really anti-seaze. So go buy a tube of the silver kind and use liberally. If you already knew this stuff...consider it a broadcast to the public then...hehe.
thanks for the info! I knew how to put all the shims together. Didn't know about the gold colored grease though... I thought it was just plain old anti-squeal grease.
05-10-2004, 03:13 PM
#21
Originally Posted by slammed95
This kit is excellent as an inexpensive upgrade for regular street driving, but will not produce the numbers shown on the G-Tech.
...and an "upgrade for regular street driving"...no ****....last I checked no one here is driving the maxima in the Grand Prix of Monte Carlo...so why would we need silly 6-piston brakes with 14" rotors or whatever?....
As for me, I am getting a roof-mounted air brake, similar to the ones used on an F-14 Tomcat when landing on a carrier....just pops up hydraulically!
05-10-2004, 03:42 PM
#22
Originally Posted by irish44j
this coming from the guy with a hyperlink to AP Racing Brakes in his signature.....sure you're not jealous that his "inexpensive" upgrade works as well as the AP Racing kit?
...and an "upgrade for regular street driving"...no ****....last I checked no one here is driving the maxima in the Grand Prix of Monte Carlo...so why would we need silly 6-piston brakes with 14" rotors or whatever?....
As for me, I am getting a roof-mounted air brake, similar to the ones used on an F-14 Tomcat when landing on a carrier....just pops up hydraulically!
...and an "upgrade for regular street driving"...no ****....last I checked no one here is driving the maxima in the Grand Prix of Monte Carlo...so why would we need silly 6-piston brakes with 14" rotors or whatever?....
As for me, I am getting a roof-mounted air brake, similar to the ones used on an F-14 Tomcat when landing on a carrier....just pops up hydraulically!
oh btw, UMD: no problem... hope u like the brakes
05-10-2004, 04:35 PM
#23
Originally Posted by slammed95
Jealous? Naw, I'm happy with these:
I don't know what you're so upset about, I was simply giving some factual info. I really like this brake kit, and would consider it for my '02 max. What I meant was that "regular street driving" doesn't include doing 100+ frequently, having turbo assisted acceleration, or going to the track.
Many props to Matt for putting these together, he's a pioneer in the maxima community for innovative parts
I don't know what you're so upset about, I was simply giving some factual info. I really like this brake kit, and would consider it for my '02 max. What I meant was that "regular street driving" doesn't include doing 100+ frequently, having turbo assisted acceleration, or going to the track.
Many props to Matt for putting these together, he's a pioneer in the maxima community for innovative parts
I'm not upset, man.....just givin you a hard time
ok ok one thing though....not really sure what a having a turbo has to do with your brakes. Does a turbo with OEM brakes take longer to stop than a non-turbo with OEM brakes? Just wondering what you meant by that. man, you showin off again by droppin the "t" word?
I would love to get a true BBK or even the BlehmCo with the Z calipers, but unfortunately none of these will fit under the 2k OEM 17's, so I had to get the BelhmCo kit that uses the OEM calipers..Would get bigger rims but already bent one of my OEM 17's with all the potholes round here...so Matt's kit is as big as my brakes will ever get.
05-11-2004, 02:20 AM
#24
Originally Posted by irish44j
I would love to get a true BBK or even the BlehmCo with the Z calipers, but unfortunately none of these will fit under the 2k OEM 17's, so I had to get the BelhmCo kit that uses the OEM calipers..Would get bigger rims but already bent one of my OEM 17's with all the potholes round here...so Matt's kit is as big as my brakes will ever get.
That's probably a lot of us. BTW, my shipment from DAVEB just arrived, 2 2k4 rotors, 2 of those spring-clips that hold the brake hose to the strut (I'm missing my front left one
) and a replacement dust cap for the right rear hub dustcap I think (had to punch a hole in it to remove it last summer when I was doing the rear brakes... rear rotor was stuck so I needed to use a puller on it) 
BlehmCo BBK here I come... after I buy a 22mm box-end wrench and another 22mm socket
05-11-2004, 05:20 AM
#25
Oops... Forgot to reply to this yesterday.. had a little drawing done up for you guys and my computer crashed.. didn't have time to redraw it before I had to head to UPS to ship some parts. blah blah blah..
Anyway, here's WHY the pad hangs over the edge of the rotor.
(this goes for ALL calipers used on rotors bigger than they were originally designed for, not just the nissan ones specifically)
The pad and caliper are both designed for an 11" rotor (in this case). When you stick a 12.6" rotor under there, the curvature at the end is slightly different.
What I've done in this drawing is draw the factory-sized 11" rotor, the 12.6" rotor, and the pad positions relative to where they sit inside the caliper- and on the rotor
you can now easily see why there's a bit of overhang on the pad.
No, it's not hurting anything- note the overhang is a very small percentage of the total pad surface. (roughly 1%)
As has been mentioned, this kit is designed for those of you, like Colonel for example, that just want better braking on the street. Those of you that are hardcore track guys, you'd be better off with some 2-pc rotors that will stand up to the heat. the Z calipers are up to the job- especially since you can get just about every pad compound known to man for them.. There's really no difference between them and my wilwoods, other than the name stamped on them. (I'd venture to say that the Z calipers are probably stronger than my wilwoods even) Old design? Maybe- but they overcame the lack of technology with more metal. they're a bit heavier than the Wilwoods, but they do the same job. But back to the point..
These brakes will do everything 99.95% of the people out there need. that last 0.05% needs to go spend $2500 on an AP or Brembo kit and pay $350 a rotor and $250 for replacement pads. the rest of us will smile when we look in our wallets and have money left over for another set of auto X tires.
Anyway, here's WHY the pad hangs over the edge of the rotor.
(this goes for ALL calipers used on rotors bigger than they were originally designed for, not just the nissan ones specifically)
The pad and caliper are both designed for an 11" rotor (in this case). When you stick a 12.6" rotor under there, the curvature at the end is slightly different.
What I've done in this drawing is draw the factory-sized 11" rotor, the 12.6" rotor, and the pad positions relative to where they sit inside the caliper- and on the rotor
you can now easily see why there's a bit of overhang on the pad.
No, it's not hurting anything- note the overhang is a very small percentage of the total pad surface. (roughly 1%)
As has been mentioned, this kit is designed for those of you, like Colonel for example, that just want better braking on the street. Those of you that are hardcore track guys, you'd be better off with some 2-pc rotors that will stand up to the heat. the Z calipers are up to the job- especially since you can get just about every pad compound known to man for them.. There's really no difference between them and my wilwoods, other than the name stamped on them. (I'd venture to say that the Z calipers are probably stronger than my wilwoods even) Old design? Maybe- but they overcame the lack of technology with more metal. they're a bit heavier than the Wilwoods, but they do the same job. But back to the point..
These brakes will do everything 99.95% of the people out there need. that last 0.05% needs to go spend $2500 on an AP or Brembo kit and pay $350 a rotor and $250 for replacement pads. the rest of us will smile when we look in our wallets and have money left over for another set of auto X tires.
05-11-2004, 05:30 AM
#27
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Oops... Forgot to reply to this yesterday.. had a little drawing done up for you guys and my computer crashed.. didn't have time to redraw it before I had to head to UPS to ship some parts. blah blah blah..
Anyway, here's WHY the pad hangs over the edge of the rotor.
(this goes for ALL calipers used on rotors bigger than they were originally designed for, not just the nissan ones specifically)
The pad and caliper are both designed for an 11" rotor (in this case). When you stick a 12.6" rotor under there, the curvature at the end is slightly different.
What I've done in this drawing is draw the factory-sized 11" rotor, the 12.6" rotor, and the pad positions relative to where they sit inside the caliper- and on the rotor
you can now easily see why there's a bit of overhang on the pad.
No, it's not hurting anything- note the overhang is a very small percentage of the total pad surface. (roughly 1%)
As has been mentioned, this kit is designed for those of you, like Colonel for example, that just want better braking on the street. Those of you that are hardcore track guys, you'd be better off with some 2-pc rotors that will stand up to the heat. the Z calipers are up to the job- especially since you can get just about every pad compound known to man for them.. There's really no difference between them and my wilwoods, other than the name stamped on them. (I'd venture to say that the Z calipers are probably stronger than my wilwoods even) Old design? Maybe- but they overcame the lack of technology with more metal. they're a bit heavier than the Wilwoods, but they do the same job. But back to the point..
These brakes will do everything 99.95% of the people out there need. that last 0.05% needs to go spend $2500 on an AP or Brembo kit and pay $350 a rotor and $250 for replacement pads. the rest of us will smile when we look in our wallets and have money left over for another set of auto X tires.
Anyway, here's WHY the pad hangs over the edge of the rotor.
(this goes for ALL calipers used on rotors bigger than they were originally designed for, not just the nissan ones specifically)
The pad and caliper are both designed for an 11" rotor (in this case). When you stick a 12.6" rotor under there, the curvature at the end is slightly different.
What I've done in this drawing is draw the factory-sized 11" rotor, the 12.6" rotor, and the pad positions relative to where they sit inside the caliper- and on the rotor
you can now easily see why there's a bit of overhang on the pad.
No, it's not hurting anything- note the overhang is a very small percentage of the total pad surface. (roughly 1%)
As has been mentioned, this kit is designed for those of you, like Colonel for example, that just want better braking on the street. Those of you that are hardcore track guys, you'd be better off with some 2-pc rotors that will stand up to the heat. the Z calipers are up to the job- especially since you can get just about every pad compound known to man for them.. There's really no difference between them and my wilwoods, other than the name stamped on them. (I'd venture to say that the Z calipers are probably stronger than my wilwoods even) Old design? Maybe- but they overcame the lack of technology with more metal. they're a bit heavier than the Wilwoods, but they do the same job. But back to the point..
These brakes will do everything 99.95% of the people out there need. that last 0.05% needs to go spend $2500 on an AP or Brembo kit and pay $350 a rotor and $250 for replacement pads. the rest of us will smile when we look in our wallets and have money left over for another set of auto X tires.
05-11-2004, 05:37 AM
#28
Old Fuddy Duddy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Originally Posted by slammed95
The kit looks pretty good, like it should have come that way from the factory.
However, I highly doubt that the G-Tech is close to accurate. They're known to produce very incorrect readings. If the stopping distances are correct, that would mean your stopping shorter than a Roush StageIII Mustang with 14" 4pistons, a Corvette with 14" 6 piston front and 13" 4 pistons, a Porsche GT3, and a Ferrari Enzo. There's no way a maxima can do that with a few replacement brake parts.
This kit is excellent as an inexpensive upgrade for regular street driving, but will not produce the numbers shown on the G-Tech.
However, I highly doubt that the G-Tech is close to accurate. They're known to produce very incorrect readings. If the stopping distances are correct, that would mean your stopping shorter than a Roush StageIII Mustang with 14" 4pistons, a Corvette with 14" 6 piston front and 13" 4 pistons, a Porsche GT3, and a Ferrari Enzo. There's no way a maxima can do that with a few replacement brake parts.
This kit is excellent as an inexpensive upgrade for regular street driving, but will not produce the numbers shown on the G-Tech.
I am not challenging the inaccuracies of a G-Tech...but the inferences you are putting up are not very nice. Why in the world would I lie about numbers...I could give a rats rear what the "public" thinks. Nobody EVER did a before and after...and I did. Thats what the device posted...and so did I. If you have pre and post brake numbers, I would be glad to look at them and maybe detect what went wrong in my testing scenario.
Remember, I have not declared these numbers as god gift to braking numbers. Only numbers that I have recieved via an unit attached to the window. Nothing more. More of a baseline reference number.
Thanks, and have a good day.
05-11-2004, 05:41 AM
#29
Old Fuddy Duddy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Originally Posted by UMD_MaxSE
Does anyone have a pic of how the 300Z relocation bracket bolts on to the steering knuckle? Just wanted to verify it's location... thanks!
I spent about 15 minutes verifying the location. I can email it to you, as the cardomain ones are to small to see it correctly.Basically, there is a curve in the bracket. That curve goes up against the spindle.
05-11-2004, 05:51 AM
#30
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 838
Originally Posted by UMD_MaxSE
Does anyone have a pic of how the 300Z relocation bracket bolts on to the steering knuckle? Just wanted to verify it's location... thanks!
http://www.mattblehm.com/HSS_images/...0zx_brake_kit/
05-11-2004, 08:33 AM
#34
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 838
The shims that are talked about here are VERY thin metal pieces that go between the back of the pads and the caliper pistons. They clip on to the back of the pads, and are roughly the shape of the pads. One of the shims looks like it has vertical slots cut in it, like a cheese grater. I believe all the Z32's have two shims behind each pad-one vented as I said, one solid. The solid one goes next to the pistons.
Here's a really good web site that illustrates the above.
http://www.ttzd.com/tech/brakestech.html
Here's a really good web site that illustrates the above.
http://www.ttzd.com/tech/brakestech.html
05-11-2004, 08:53 AM
#35
I just did a google search regarding shims, since I never use them either. One person suggested the shims may be used as the disc brake "wear indicator", i.e. if the shims have a piece that folds around the pad, it can be used as a wear indicator which scrapes the rotor when the pads wear down far enough. Probably useless to most of us, but I wonder if a car could fail some states' inspections due to this...
05-11-2004, 09:07 AM
#37
Originally Posted by spirilis
I just did a google search regarding shims, since I never use them either. One person suggested the shims may be used as the disc brake "wear indicator", i.e. if the shims have a piece that folds around the pad, it can be used as a wear indicator which scrapes the rotor when the pads wear down far enough. Probably useless to most of us, but I wonder if a car could fail some states' inspections due to this...
Whoever said that needs to be smacked in the head. the shims are so thin that by the time you're rubbing on ths shims, you're going to be down to bare metal by the time you can get home. they're about 0.5mm thick or so, and the pad wear limit is 2-3 mm. well past the wear limit for the pads.
05-11-2004, 09:14 AM
#38
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Whoever said that needs to be smacked in the head. the shims are so thin that by the time you're rubbing on ths shims, you're going to be down to bare metal by the time you can get home. they're about 0.5mm thick or so, and the pad wear limit is 2-3 mm. well past the wear limit for the pads.
)
05-11-2004, 09:26 AM
#39
Old Fuddy Duddy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Originally Posted by spirilis
Even the clips that go around the pads? (if they do, that is... I haven't looked at one in almost 9 months )
)The clips, IMHO, are only there to keep it together long enough when you reassemble the pads. I put them on, and I get no squeaking...so no changes here.
05-11-2004, 06:24 PM
#40
Installed the kit this evening. I love it I did run into a minor snag, or something. The left wheel seems to have a periodic (i.e. repetitive, you hear it once with every revolution of the wheel) scraping sound, which you can hear initially while rolling out of the driveway, and I could hear when I was rolling the wheels with the car jacked up. Not sure what it is, almost sounds like the rotor periodically touching the pad and moving away, as if the rotor (or something else) was slightly out of round. Not sure.
Either way, it didn't influence brake performance, as the pedal is perfectly smooth and there is no vibration, and the braking torque is amazing--I found myself routinely hitting the pedal as hard as before, only finding myself backing off the pedal very quickly since the braking power is markedly greater than the old setup I had (Raybestos rotors with Raybestos QuietStop pads). I think I did notice the PBR Metal Masters' high temperature effect, where the pads start to grab harder when they heat up. I tried not to heat them up too much, instead going by a lot of gentle slow downs/stops, similar to the 30-5 stops followed by a cooldown period recommended on the sheet that came with the pads.
I'm gonna have to monitor how the car sounds from here on to see if that periodic "scraping" noise subsides... it does worry me, but at least I can drive it to work for the rest of the week, god forbid it somehow escalates into an issue.
I do recall that the top bracket-to-caliper bolt was difficult to install, in that I had the bottom one already installed and the top one seemed to go in with an occasional "scraping" noise. After backing out the bolts, I noticed the threads look somewhat flattened, but the bottom bolt looks like that too and I didn't have any trouble with it. I haven't removed the right side's bolts for comparison. Worst comes to worst, if this is the result of a slight crossthreading, I'll have to buy new mounting bolts from Matt, and a new caliper mount from DAVEB, hopefully that wouldn't be too much... but I pulled it out and re-tightened it as squarely as possible (could still hear the periodic noise), we'll see how it goes.
I can say that with PBR (Axxis) Metal Masters, the BlehmCo BBK kit with Genuine Nissan OEM 6th gen rotors BARELY fits. I mean, BARELY. You really have to push that caliper piston in there, and if you take the caliper off shortly after test-driving the BlehmCo kit and attempt to push the piston back into its bore, there's only ~1-2mm of movement before it hits rock bottom. Wow