U can also turn on the VIAS via Consult My dyno was done on stock 15" wheels, in 55 deg weather, SAE corrected and no spikes anywhere. Reason I'm shooting for 220WHP minumum is that I seen 10-14WHP gains from flywheels on VQ35s, UDP also gains some more WHP, I won't disclose my mods.... but my lower intake aint stock.

 

10-14whp from a 6-7lbs lighter flywheel? That's a little hard to shallow plus lightened flywheels have not been proven to make you any quicker in the 1/4 mile. As for the UDP, I'm not quicker or slower without it. With my UDP I did 14.4s@98mph and without it I'm running 14.4s@98mph. Same 60 foots, same conditions, same track.

Dave

 

Do 5.5 gens have problems with these?

 

I actually know one that had a problem...but no others so far.

 

Ah, I see. 15" wheels might well give you some more hp.

All totaled, with all my mods on the dyno (except the headers) I gained a whopping 12whp. The udp did not produce a statistically measurable increase in whp.

I will say this, the SAE correction is somewhat misleading when it comes to real world performance under ideal conditions. With cold temps, low pressure my car (and similarly modified 2k 5spds) is probably putting down 215+whp - with 17" wheels.

Still, I will if you produce an SAE corrected non-spike dyno of your car that shows 220whp.

 

Unfortunately for auto guys, VI switchover in 3rd gear happens at about 105mph. 2nd gear will work well with auto's, they can do a 30mph 2nd gear start and run it through the top of second. At about 57mph, the car with VI disconnected or a malfunctioning VI should slowly fall behind. Both cars should have the shifter in the '2' position to hold redline though.

 

so would the ideal switch over be at around 4500 instead? or is 5k still ok?

 

Who all makes these "RPM switches" and what kind of prices can we expect? If it's not too much $$, I really wanna consider doing this, especially toying with the RPM switchover point

 

MSD makes a "Window Switch" that takes pills/modules, however it needs to be modified to work with the Maxima ignition system or something.

Cost is around $100 or so.

 

I'm *GUESSING* 4600rpm, since 4700rpm looks like the spot however if our cars switchover point IS 5000rpm, it seems to take ~100rpm before it shows on the dyno. Maybe that's the delay or just the dyno, I don't know.

A lower switchover point would need some dyno tests to know best, but definitely a couple hundred before 5000rpm.

 

hmm, just read about the MSD RPM switch... $60 for the unit, plus you need to buy a separate "RPM module". I think they have one that goes from 3000 to 5000-something RPM (P/N 8670). Here's a PDF I found: http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/pn8950.pdf

So the RPM selector itself is like $48-- http://www.herbertperformance.com/cg...at=541&vend=49

Anyone have better prices/sources/know anyone who wants to sell one/etc?

 

Looks like it would work...just tap the VIAS solenoid Yellow/Green wire to the MSD Yellow.

 

Is the MSD one the one requiring modification to work with the Maxima's ignition system?

And also... for the RPM signal, could it use the RPM signal from the ECU harness, or does it actually have to tap into something with the ignition coils?

 

Just buy the Harlan programmable RPM switch for $50. I don't see why people think they need to waste the money on getting the MSD modified. The ECU puts out a standard 6 cyl. tach signal that can be read by any of those devices.

http://www.harlan-engineering.com/store/rpm/rpm.html

 

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/cus...asp?PartID=433 here is dyno proof that flywheels do make alot of horsepower... I stand behind my mods and know which ones work and which ones dont. The throttle body spacer trick people talk bout doesn't do anyting, even the noise is the same, mine does not whistle more or less. We need a custom intake manifold made like they have for SR20s... I've seen gains of 70WHP from a diff intake manifold on a boosted SR.

 

I've heard MEVI guys slamming the Harlan switch before... do you recall/can you explain why?

 

I never kept up with all the answers but from what I gather many of them have no concept of basic electricity. The Harlan has a LOW current groundswitch that comes out of the container and should ONLY power a relay, nothing more.

 

I have stated on numorous occasions that lighter flywheels WILL make hp on an inertia style dyno. But they won't make power on a brake dyno.

 

The Harlan is unreliable and the MSD hasn't ever caused problems is why most go with the MSD IIRC.

I think a "dial" type of switch is what I'll be looking for, so I don't need to mess with pills.

 

Yes on the MSD window switch and yes you can use the TACH wire I used on my shift light install.

 

My Harlan has never had any problems.

 

Neither has my VIAS.

 

Yep, I just looked at their site... 0.5A is definitely for relays. So do you think we'd need to wire in a relay to use the Harlan switch with the VIAS? (not sure how much current that little solenoid takes...)

 

Do not, I repeat do not get the Harlan RPM switch. There is definitely a problem with that switch and the tach signal of the VQ. I've used my Harlan with and without a relay and it still flakes out regardless. I have a toggle switch for my MEVI simply because I don't want to blow a run at the track when my Harlan rpm flakes out. Summit Racing makes their own RPM switch for $50 and it's dead reliable. Get that one if you're concerned about reliability. I plan on getting a SAFC-V (aka VTEC) and I'm going to use the VTEC control to control my MEVI switchover AND closing (it can do alternating rpms). I'll use the SAFC to richen up my fuel mixture in the upper rpms because JWT makes the VQ run damn near 14:1 even after 5000rpms which is a bit risky.


Dave

 

Please tell me you can provide some other type of proof other than the manufactuers dyno. If all manufactuers were honest in their dynos and power quotes, we'd all be driving some seriously fast cars.


Dave

 

Dave you're better off getting a SAFC-II and using a RPM switch as opposed to the VAFC. Now if they made a VAFC-II I would recommend that instead and probably get one myself.

edit:

It isn't listed on the APEXi USA site but I just found it elsewhere. They do make a V-AFC 2 and that is what you should get.

 

Although the VI switchover is at 5K, the sound changed (with an intake) at 5,200rpms. I'm not sure why

 

Because the Maxima tachometers are calibrated by 1st graders and underpants gnomes.

 

 

True, the tach is off by as much as 500rmps at certain points. Last time I hooked up a scanner and drove around I proved that. The ECU reads one thing, but the tach shows something else
2.5K was actaully closer to 3K
3K was closer to 3.5K and so on...
I couldnt exactly test it beyond that point, due to the fact I as to see were Im going at 4K+rpms but up to that point I knew enough.

 

to bring up old mess... right now im two screws away from taking out the rod.... but I can't. They are so freaking soft. So how did you guys remove it? I might as well do this cause im so close. Thanks for your help.

 

Which screws are you referring?

If I were you, I'd leave it alone UNTIL someone shows before/after gain. So far, the only dyno available shows it's not worthwhile without an extended rev-limiter, since you lose so much below switchover. Even then, how often do you stay above 5000rpm, really? IMO, this is a 1/4-mile track mod.

BTW, yes...they are soft and I used a pair of vise-grips on the screw driver shank to break them free, but chewed a few of them up a bit.

 

actually my Dad does ship fabrications and repairs on ship engines and what not so i am sure if i show him whats broken (if it is the rod) then he will have some way to machine something. I trust my Dad. I wasnt actually looking for that gain on the top end... i am a torquey kinda guy in the first place.

 

bump a great thread...

 

yeah, this is almost a year old now.

 

year old or not, but has a lot of good info. as a matter of fact, after reading all this I decided to check mine and after 61.5k miles it's still running good. everything is intact. Almost killed a screw of course, but after I got #3 phillips screw driver it was pretty simple. put pressure on the handle, that's the key

 

OK everyone, STOP using the JB Weld to fix your broken VIAS. I came up with the best fix for these and for only a few dollars in parts. We will post pictures as soon as we fix the one on Sloppymaxs' car and I expect my fix to be stronger than the stock setup. It will also allow you to adjust the valve clock so you can get it setup perfectly.


I always hated it that you guys were using JB to fix these things because I knew that would only be a temporary solution. But now that I finally decided to spend ten mins in the garage on this issue, it has been resolved. Look for an update within the next few days.

Thanks

 

Hey SR,
Just got your message, and I'm definatly interested. I've been driving without my valve for a while now and I miss the torque. Let me know when you have some free time after doing Sloppy's valve and we'll set something up.
Thanks

 

One question what if you removed the " ROD " and ran the 3.5 cams, could we expect horsepower in the lower rpms or still after 5k?

 

I'm glad someone listened!