Is this a record? haha... step inside please..
#161
U can also turn on the VIAS via Consult My dyno was done on stock 15" wheels, in 55 deg weather, SAE corrected and no spikes anywhere. Reason I'm shooting for 220WHP minumum is that I seen 10-14WHP gains from flywheels on VQ35s, UDP also gains some more WHP, I won't disclose my mods.... but my lower intake aint stock.
#162
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
U can also turn on the VIAS via Consult My dyno was done on stock 15" wheels, in 55 deg weather, SAE corrected and no spikes anywhere. Reason I'm shooting for 220WHP minumum is that I seen 10-14WHP gains from flywheels on VQ35s, UDP also gains some more WHP, I won't disclose my mods.... but my lower intake aint stock.
Dave
#165
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
U can also turn on the VIAS via Consult My dyno was done on stock 15" wheels, in 55 deg weather, SAE corrected and no spikes anywhere. Reason I'm shooting for 220WHP minumum is that I seen 10-14WHP gains from flywheels on VQ35s, UDP also gains some more WHP, I won't disclose my mods.... but my lower intake aint stock.
All totaled, with all my mods on the dyno (except the headers) I gained a whopping 12whp. The udp did not produce a statistically measurable increase in whp.
I will say this, the SAE correction is somewhat misleading when it comes to real world performance under ideal conditions. With cold temps, low pressure my car (and similarly modified 2k 5spds) is probably putting down 215+whp - with 17" wheels.
Still, I will if you produce an SAE corrected non-spike dyno of your car that shows 220whp.
#166
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
I say 3rd gear is best, since 1st/2nd is too short and reaction time can muddy the results.
If you can get 2-3 consistent stopwatch runs starting with your CC set at 60mph to redline, then stop disconnect the VIAS solenoid plug and get 2-3 more consistent runs. You're good. But as **** as I am, I'd reconnect it, and do 2-3 more runs to make sure it's not just heat soak.
So, set cruise control at 60mph in 3rd:
1)2-3 60-100mph w/ON
2)2-3 60-100mph w/OFF
3)2-3 60-100mph w/ON
Assuming you're manual...not sure what speeds/method would be best for an auto due to a 130mph 3rd gear and tranny downshift issue below XXXXrpm. So, 2nd gear at ~4000rpm manually shifted into 2nd to redline maybe?
If you can get 2-3 consistent stopwatch runs starting with your CC set at 60mph to redline, then stop disconnect the VIAS solenoid plug and get 2-3 more consistent runs. You're good. But as **** as I am, I'd reconnect it, and do 2-3 more runs to make sure it's not just heat soak.
So, set cruise control at 60mph in 3rd:
1)2-3 60-100mph w/ON
2)2-3 60-100mph w/OFF
3)2-3 60-100mph w/ON
Assuming you're manual...not sure what speeds/method would be best for an auto due to a 130mph 3rd gear and tranny downshift issue below XXXXrpm. So, 2nd gear at ~4000rpm manually shifted into 2nd to redline maybe?
#168
Who all makes these "RPM switches" and what kind of prices can we expect? If it's not too much $$, I really wanna consider doing this, especially toying with the RPM switchover point
#170
I'm *GUESSING* 4600rpm, since 4700rpm looks like the spot however if our cars switchover point IS 5000rpm, it seems to take ~100rpm before it shows on the dyno. Maybe that's the delay or just the dyno, I don't know.
A lower switchover point would need some dyno tests to know best, but definitely a couple hundred before 5000rpm.
A lower switchover point would need some dyno tests to know best, but definitely a couple hundred before 5000rpm.
Originally Posted by ChromeSE5
so would the ideal switch over be at around 4500 instead? or is 5k still ok?
#171
hmm, just read about the MSD RPM switch... $60 for the unit, plus you need to buy a separate "RPM module". I think they have one that goes from 3000 to 5000-something RPM (P/N 8670). Here's a PDF I found: http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/pn8950.pdf
So the RPM selector itself is like $48-- http://www.herbertperformance.com/cg...at=541&vend=49
Anyone have better prices/sources/know anyone who wants to sell one/etc?
So the RPM selector itself is like $48-- http://www.herbertperformance.com/cg...at=541&vend=49
Anyone have better prices/sources/know anyone who wants to sell one/etc?
#173
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Looks like it would work...just tap the VIAS solenoid Yellow/Green wire to the MSD Yellow.
And also... for the RPM signal, could it use the RPM signal from the ECU harness, or does it actually have to tap into something with the ignition coils?
#174
Just buy the Harlan programmable RPM switch for $50. I don't see why people think they need to waste the money on getting the MSD modified. The ECU puts out a standard 6 cyl. tach signal that can be read by any of those devices.
http://www.harlan-engineering.com/store/rpm/rpm.html
http://www.harlan-engineering.com/store/rpm/rpm.html
#175
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/cus...asp?PartID=433 here is dyno proof that flywheels do make alot of horsepower... I stand behind my mods and know which ones work and which ones dont. The throttle body spacer trick people talk bout doesn't do anyting, even the noise is the same, mine does not whistle more or less. We need a custom intake manifold made like they have for SR20s... I've seen gains of 70WHP from a diff intake manifold on a boosted SR.
#176
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
Just buy the Harlan programmable RPM switch for $50. I don't see why people think they need to waste the money on getting the MSD modified. The ECU puts out a standard 6 cyl. tach signal that can be read by any of those devices.
http://www.harlan-engineering.com/store/rpm/rpm.html
http://www.harlan-engineering.com/store/rpm/rpm.html
#177
Originally Posted by spirilis
I've heard MEVI guys slamming the Harlan switch before... do you recall/can you explain why?
#178
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/cus...asp?PartID=433 here is dyno proof that flywheels do make alot of horsepower... I stand behind my mods and know which ones work and which ones dont. The throttle body spacer trick people talk bout doesn't do anyting, even the noise is the same, mine does not whistle more or less. We need a custom intake manifold made like they have for SR20s... I've seen gains of 70WHP from a diff intake manifold on a boosted SR.
#179
The Harlan is unreliable and the MSD hasn't ever caused problems is why most go with the MSD IIRC.
I think a "dial" type of switch is what I'll be looking for, so I don't need to mess with pills.
I think a "dial" type of switch is what I'll be looking for, so I don't need to mess with pills.
#180
Yes on the MSD window switch and yes you can use the TACH wire I used on my shift light install.
Originally Posted by spirilis
Is the MSD one the one requiring modification to work with the Maxima's ignition system?
And also... for the RPM signal, could it use the RPM signal from the ECU harness, or does it actually have to tap into something with the ignition coils?
And also... for the RPM signal, could it use the RPM signal from the ECU harness, or does it actually have to tap into something with the ignition coils?
#183
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I never kept up with all the answers but from what I gather many of them have no concept of basic electricity. The Harlan has a LOW current groundswitch that comes out of the container and should ONLY power a relay, nothing more.
#184
Do not, I repeat do not get the Harlan RPM switch. There is definitely a problem with that switch and the tach signal of the VQ. I've used my Harlan with and without a relay and it still flakes out regardless. I have a toggle switch for my MEVI simply because I don't want to blow a run at the track when my Harlan rpm flakes out. Summit Racing makes their own RPM switch for $50 and it's dead reliable. Get that one if you're concerned about reliability. I plan on getting a SAFC-V (aka VTEC) and I'm going to use the VTEC control to control my MEVI switchover AND closing (it can do alternating rpms). I'll use the SAFC to richen up my fuel mixture in the upper rpms because JWT makes the VQ run damn near 14:1 even after 5000rpms which is a bit risky.
Dave
Dave
#185
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/cus...asp?PartID=433 here is dyno proof that flywheels do make alot of horsepower... I stand behind my mods and know which ones work and which ones dont. The throttle body spacer trick people talk bout doesn't do anyting, even the noise is the same, mine does not whistle more or less. We need a custom intake manifold made like they have for SR20s... I've seen gains of 70WHP from a diff intake manifold on a boosted SR.
Dave
#186
Dave you're better off getting a SAFC-II and using a RPM switch as opposed to the VAFC. Now if they made a VAFC-II I would recommend that instead and probably get one myself.
edit:
It isn't listed on the APEXi USA site but I just found it elsewhere. They do make a V-AFC 2 and that is what you should get.
edit:
It isn't listed on the APEXi USA site but I just found it elsewhere. They do make a V-AFC 2 and that is what you should get.
#187
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
I'm *GUESSING* 4600rpm, since 4700rpm looks like the spot however if our cars switchover point IS 5000rpm, it seems to take ~100rpm before it shows on the dyno. Maybe that's the delay or just the dyno, I don't know.
A lower switchover point would need some dyno tests to know best, but definitely a couple hundred before 5000rpm.
A lower switchover point would need some dyno tests to know best, but definitely a couple hundred before 5000rpm.
#188
Originally Posted by ScreamingVQ
Although the VI switchover is at 5K, the sound changed (with an intake) at 5,200rpms. I'm not sure why
#190
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
Because the Maxima tachometers are calibrated by 1st graders and underpants gnomes.
2.5K was actaully closer to 3K
3K was closer to 3.5K and so on...
I couldnt exactly test it beyond that point, due to the fact I as to see were Im going at 4K+rpms but up to that point I knew enough.
#191
to bring up old mess... right now im two screws away from taking out the rod.... but I can't. They are so freaking soft. So how did you guys remove it? I might as well do this cause im so close. Thanks for your help.
#192
Which screws are you referring?
If I were you, I'd leave it alone UNTIL someone shows before/after gain. So far, the only dyno available shows it's not worthwhile without an extended rev-limiter, since you lose so much below switchover. Even then, how often do you stay above 5000rpm, really? IMO, this is a 1/4-mile track mod.
BTW, yes...they are soft and I used a pair of vise-grips on the screw driver shank to break them free, but chewed a few of them up a bit.
If I were you, I'd leave it alone UNTIL someone shows before/after gain. So far, the only dyno available shows it's not worthwhile without an extended rev-limiter, since you lose so much below switchover. Even then, how often do you stay above 5000rpm, really? IMO, this is a 1/4-mile track mod.
BTW, yes...they are soft and I used a pair of vise-grips on the screw driver shank to break them free, but chewed a few of them up a bit.
#193
actually my Dad does ship fabrications and repairs on ship engines and what not so i am sure if i show him whats broken (if it is the rod) then he will have some way to machine something. I trust my Dad. I wasnt actually looking for that gain on the top end... i am a torquey kinda guy in the first place.
#196
year old or not, but has a lot of good info. as a matter of fact, after reading all this I decided to check mine and after 61.5k miles it's still running good. everything is intact. Almost killed a screw of course, but after I got #3 phillips screw driver it was pretty simple. put pressure on the handle, that's the key
#197
OK everyone, STOP using the JB Weld to fix your broken VIAS. I came up with the best fix for these and for only a few dollars in parts. We will post pictures as soon as we fix the one on Sloppymaxs' car and I expect my fix to be stronger than the stock setup. It will also allow you to adjust the valve clock so you can get it setup perfectly.
I always hated it that you guys were using JB to fix these things because I knew that would only be a temporary solution. But now that I finally decided to spend ten mins in the garage on this issue, it has been resolved. Look for an update within the next few days.
Thanks
I always hated it that you guys were using JB to fix these things because I knew that would only be a temporary solution. But now that I finally decided to spend ten mins in the garage on this issue, it has been resolved. Look for an update within the next few days.
Thanks
#198
Hey SR,
Just got your message, and I'm definatly interested. I've been driving without my valve for a while now and I miss the torque. Let me know when you have some free time after doing Sloppy's valve and we'll set something up.
Thanks
Just got your message, and I'm definatly interested. I've been driving without my valve for a while now and I miss the torque. Let me know when you have some free time after doing Sloppy's valve and we'll set something up.
Thanks