Wheel stud replacement
#1
Wheel stud replacement
How difficult is it to do on your own and what tools are required to replace the stud on the front wheel? The dealership says its 2 hrs of labor and $150. I'm thinking of going to a smaller shop and paying less. Whats the fair price to have this done?
#3
Originally Posted by Y2KMaxGXE-R
How difficult is it to do on your own and what tools are required to replace the stud on the front wheel? The dealership says its 2 hrs of labor and $150. I'm thinking of going to a smaller shop and paying less. Whats the fair price to have this done?
#4
Originally Posted by Regime
It is very easy, 20 minutes at most with simple tools. I'd pay a shop no more than 30 to do it.
#5
Originally Posted by PoLo
12mm, 17mm, a hammer, and $1.50 to $5.00 per wheel stud. 12mm to remove the calipers off the rotor. 17mm on 2 bolts to remove the caliper housing. rubber mallet will loosen the rotor up. you think it's held on by other bolts, but it's NOT.it's prolly rusted on. maybe even a few kicks will knock that thing loose. once that's does, get a hammer and wack on the top of that stud. 1 or 2 big hits and that thing is flying off. put the new one in, it'll be loose, but youse the bolt to bring it in. replace everything, and you just saved yourself mad money dookie. you're welcome.
#6
What Polo said plus this:
Get an EXTRA lugnut (at autozone) and when you get the new stud in, install the caliper, put the wheel on with all lugs and torque the $hit out of the one on the new stud to make sure it sits all the way........put some real A$$ on it.... Once you cannot go any further, undo all the lugs, take the wheel off and check it. If it is all the way in, put everything back and torque your lugs to 80lb...but don't use the lug that you used to ram the stud into place, it will have streched out threads...use a new one.
Get an EXTRA lugnut (at autozone) and when you get the new stud in, install the caliper, put the wheel on with all lugs and torque the $hit out of the one on the new stud to make sure it sits all the way........put some real A$$ on it.... Once you cannot go any further, undo all the lugs, take the wheel off and check it. If it is all the way in, put everything back and torque your lugs to 80lb...but don't use the lug that you used to ram the stud into place, it will have streched out threads...use a new one.
#7
Originally Posted by schernov
What Polo said plus this:
Get an EXTRA lugnut (at autozone) and when you get the new stud in, install the caliper, put the wheel on with all lugs and torque the $hit out of the one on the new stud to make sure it sits all the way........put some real A$$ on it.... Once you cannot go any further, undo all the lugs, take the wheel off and check it. If it is all the way in, put everything back and torque your lugs to 80lb...but don't use the lug that you used to ram the stud into place, it will have streched out threads...use a new one.
Get an EXTRA lugnut (at autozone) and when you get the new stud in, install the caliper, put the wheel on with all lugs and torque the $hit out of the one on the new stud to make sure it sits all the way........put some real A$$ on it.... Once you cannot go any further, undo all the lugs, take the wheel off and check it. If it is all the way in, put everything back and torque your lugs to 80lb...but don't use the lug that you used to ram the stud into place, it will have streched out threads...use a new one.
nicely said. never thought of doing it like that bfr..will have to remember this!!! but seriously drop that bi@tch soooooon
#9
Originally Posted by schernov
What Polo said plus this:
Get an EXTRA lugnut (at autozone) and when you get the new stud in, install the caliper, put the wheel on with all lugs and torque the $hit out of the one on the new stud to make sure it sits all the way........put some real A$$ on it.... Once you cannot go any further, undo all the lugs, take the wheel off and check it. If it is all the way in, put everything back and torque your lugs to 80lb...but don't use the lug that you used to ram the stud into place, it will have streched out threads...use a new one.
Get an EXTRA lugnut (at autozone) and when you get the new stud in, install the caliper, put the wheel on with all lugs and torque the $hit out of the one on the new stud to make sure it sits all the way........put some real A$$ on it.... Once you cannot go any further, undo all the lugs, take the wheel off and check it. If it is all the way in, put everything back and torque your lugs to 80lb...but don't use the lug that you used to ram the stud into place, it will have streched out threads...use a new one.
The washers prevent any scoring that the lug will do to the hub and/or rotor.
#10
Originally Posted by PoLo
12mm, 17mm, a hammer, and $1.50 to $5.00 per wheel stud. 12mm to remove the calipers off the rotor. 17mm on 2 bolts to remove the caliper housing. rubber mallet will loosen the rotor up. you think it's held on by other bolts, but it's NOT.it's prolly rusted on. maybe even a few kicks will knock that thing loose. once that's does, get a hammer and wack on the top of that stud. 1 or 2 big hits and that thing is flying off. put the new one in, it'll be loose, but youse the bolt to bring it in. replace everything, and you just saved yourself mad money dookie. you're welcome.
yep what he said
but what i did to be sure stud is all the way back in....i slid it in from back then put 10 or so washers then but lug nut on....when trying to tighten it, the rotor will move since caliper is off....so have someone hold the rotor or slid a thin pipe between the other lugnuts to hold rotor steady....once stud is all the way in, loosen lug nut & take washers off & so on......
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