Does Nissan replace the air filter at each oil change? I know many oil change companies do replace them at each oil change. If Nissan does not, how often should it be replaced? Is it possible to clean an OEM filter,and if so, how?
Sorry, I don't mean to sound like a three year old with all of the questions.
Thanks.

 

My owners manual is not at hand, but I believe that Nissan calls for a filter replacement with every oil change. But even if it didn't, AWAYS change the oil filter with every oil change. They are cheap. NO!! .......they are not cleanable. As for how often... follow your owners manual. You will find two servicing schedules, depending on "normal" or "severe" use. Personally I use the severe usage schedule (or better) even though my usage would be considered normal. I end up changing oil about every 3000 to 4000 miles. The oil when drained still has some color in it. The engine is spotless inside.

 

Sorry, I read OIL filter not AIR filter. I don't believe the air filter is on the same periodicity as the oil filter, and without my owner's manual I can't be sure. I hate to think what a dealer charges for one. It only takes 10 sec. to remove and physically check the condition. But again check with your owners manual. The stock paper filters are not considered cleanable.

 

I do have my 2000 owners manual here after all. I expect yours should be the same. Schedule 1 and 2 both are the same for replacement of the air filter. Every 24 months or 30,000 miles with the proviso that in dustier areas replacement may be required more often. Big help!! Personally for "normal" operation I would replace the stock ones about every 20,000 to 25,000 miles, but physically check it, and vacuum out the filter housing about every 3rd or 4th oil change. I have used K & Ns for years so I just clean and reoil every year or so it seems.

 

I clean my filter every 15000 miles, and when I was using paper, I had to change them at about the same interval. 15000 miles is a pretty safe bet. As it was said earlier, it takes like 10 sec to pop it out and see if its dirty.

 

air filters such as the k&n's are cleanable. if you don't have one like that, i suggest you just replace it alltogether since it's only about $10 anyways. supposedly, air filters last about 15000 miles and i'm with e55amg2, it only takes about 10 seconds to check.

 

I've been changing out my air filters for more than 30 yrs.
1) it is a snap to do yourself and does take actually less than 2 minutes.
2) change at least once4 a year say every july 4th.
3)10 yes ago I started using K&N filters which are cleanable (you purchase a separate "Kit" for doing this" I now use K&N on all of my cars and am very pleased with them.

Mr. P

 

mr. p, i've heard of performance gains from using a k&n filter. do you 'feel' any gains from your experience? are you using the same sized filter or did you remove the entire air filter system and replace with a cone filter?

 

I just replaced the stock air filter with the K & N panel filter. The stock intake is still intact and will probably remain so except for possibly putting an intake scoop behind the upper chin slot of the bumper facia. I have no interest in WOT "dyno" runs. The car runs perfectly and pushes you in the seat (especially after about 4000 rpm) right now. I am really only interested in the idle to mid-rpm range (the highway) of operation with this auto tranny car. The coolest air with the most ram is what I'm after. I am leary about making wholesale changes to the intake due to MAF systems requires a stable, smooth airflow to deliver an accurate signal to the ECU particularly for accel. and decel. The stock system can also adjust for changes made by some mods rendering them basically useless. This full feedback system is conversly not easily tricked or fooled because at a steady rpm and load the stock ECU will adjust fuel delivery to achieve the "perfect" air/fuel ratio anyway. You probably have also noticed a lot of "performance" issues in this forum, a lot of which crop up after some mod or mods have been accomplished. Be very, very careful. You will get loads of "advice".

 

This thread seems to have changed topics but....

Samson has a very good point.

I'm not an expert and I'm not trying to say I am. Here's what I think. Feel free to correct me or post replies.

A high flow filter will only add performance to the extent that the stock filter is restricting the engine from inhaling additional airflow. Based on the data I've seen on this forum, like dyno runs and the like, and the fact that the engineers at Nissan don't typically leave much on the table, I'd speculate a high flow panel filter might add a little performance at the top end of the tach, but that's about it. This is where airflow demands are the highest, so it only makes sense that any compromises in the system would be at this point. The air filter is not the only restriction.

I think it goes without saying that the ECU is not easily tricked. I'm not sure anyone here is attempting to do that, rather the goal has been to allow more air into, and out of the motor with intake and exhaust mods - typical hot rodding modifications. The ECU can/will read the additional airflow and like you mentioned, compensate for it with additional fuel, thereby making additional power.

I agree non-turbulant airflow in the MAF is critical as well. Turbulant air can make the sensor output "dirty" or noisy/erratic output to the ECU. This is true of all the heated element style MAF systems I'm aware of, most specifically Ford fuel injection systems, but they are similar. I learned quite awhile ago that the MAF systems seem to work best when there is at least a few inches of intake piping ahead of the meter assembly before the air filter. This shields the sensor from disturbing airflow coming into the side of the filter assembly. The additional tubing straightens out the airflow too.

My experience has been if you have a filter directly bolted or clamped to the MAF meter, and airflow under the hood or wherever it's located can buffet the sensor during driving, this can cause various drivability problems. I'm unaware how the different systems compensate for the erratic readings, if they even do so.

I think the panel design in the stock airbox is very effective at delivering stable, directional airflow to the MAF sensor, but I would not look for much in the way of performance gains with a high flow filter installed, especially below 4000rpm.

The other restrictions I suspect in the stock airbox are the rather small intake opening at the nose of the car, and to some extent, the accordian style flex tubing at the throttle body.

I'm also planning some sort of gab modification to mine in conjunction with a high flow panel filter, but my performance expectations are not high.

 

Sorry to take so long in getting back with an answer.

In both of my Maximas & my GMC Yukon I have replaced the stock filters with K&N "stock replacements" so the original air boxes are still in place.

The ol Butt Dyno says that there is a bit of a performance gain but I couldn't prove it to you. However I do in the long run save money on air filters as I used to change them every 6 months but I've had the same K&N on the Yukon since it was new in 96 and it cleans up just fine using their cleaning kit.

tip avoid the tendency to over oil the filter.

Mr.P