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Is it worth buying an SAFC even though I'm N/A?

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Old Jun 12, 2004 | 05:14 PM
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Is it worth buying an SAFC even though I'm N/A?

I have been thinking about doing this for a while now. I read through past threads and never got any conclusive responses. I have Hotshot headers, b-pipe, intake, muffler and udp. I know this many mods make the car run lean, and I have always heard that correcting the a/f ratio will provide gains. I read that the optimum a/f ratio is ~14. When I had my car dynoed, I was at 12.5 at 5700 rpm and at 13 most of the run from 4000 rpm on. I know someone has to have tried this by now. Should I get one?
Old Jun 12, 2004 | 05:39 PM
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It can be of value. Most guys that are modded , and NA can make use of it. Properly tuned it can prevent you from running lean when you have headers etc. That seems to plague most modded Maximas. Just make sure to get it properly dyno tuned......
Old Jun 12, 2004 | 06:11 PM
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I think I may have to get either an SAFC or EManage when I do HS headers later this summer. Gotta do some research before I figure out which one though...

So yes, it can be of benefit for NA Powah
Old Jun 12, 2004 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MAXINXS
I have been thinking about doing this for a while now. I read through past threads and never got any conclusive responses. I have Hotshot headers, b-pipe, intake, muffler and udp. I know this many mods make the car run lean, and I have always heard that correcting the a/f ratio will provide gains. I read that the optimum a/f ratio is ~14. When I had my car dynoed, I was at 12.5 at 5700 rpm and at 13 most of the run from 4000 rpm on. I know someone has to have tried this by now. Should I get one?

You're not going to be running lean. If anything, the ECU will have it richer than ever right now. I bet you average A/F ratio is 13:1 as you sit at this very moment...
Old Jun 12, 2004 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Quicksilver
You're not going to be running lean. If anything, the ECU will have it richer than ever right now. I bet you average A/F ratio is 13:1 as you sit at this very moment...
Yes, that's about right. So, adjusting it to 14 would improve performance right?
Old Jun 12, 2004 | 09:51 PM
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Im goin by the 3.5's Ive seen dyno with headers......who knows
Old Jun 12, 2004 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by MAXINXS
Yes, that's about right. So, adjusting it to 14 would improve performance right?

14:1 is good to about 5000rpms or so then you want to start dialing it back a bit to around 13:1-12.5:1. I have the JWT ECU and every dyno I've seen shows the A/F 14:1 across the whole board instead the factory A/F of ~14:1 dialing back to 12:1. 14:1 across the whole band is not ideal nor terribly safe especially when a few of us are pushing 7000rpm rev limiters. I'll probably get a S-AFC to richen up the mixture a bit.


Dave
Old Jun 13, 2004 | 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave B
14:1 is good to about 5000rpms or so then you want to start dialing it back a bit to around 13:1-12.5:1. I have the JWT ECU and every dyno I've seen shows the A/F 14:1 across the whole board instead the factory A/F of ~14:1 dialing back to 12:1. 14:1 across the whole band is not ideal nor terribly safe especially when a few of us are pushing 7000rpm rev limiters. I'll probably get a S-AFC to richen up the mixture a bit.
Dave
So what exactly will I gain or lose from dialing back the a/f at ~5000 like you are talking about? Is it just easier on the engine?
Old Jun 13, 2004 | 11:22 AM
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its not safe running a lean condition at higher rpms, so therefore most of the time the mixture is increased to a richer A/F after 5k rpms

my ecu is a consistent 12.4-12.8 across the whole band
Old Jun 13, 2004 | 01:13 PM
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Found a great articel that pretty much explains everything: http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/...roject_qg18de/
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