What does this ECU upgrade do??
#1
What does this ECU upgrade do??
Ive seen it around but I havent really followed it. Who makes ECUs for the 3.5 and how much power gains are there? Is there a higher redline? Is it for both auto and manual trannies? Does a higher redline mean the engine wont last as long since its going through more pressure? How much is it?
#3
you cant reprogram to you liking, there is no laptop or a controller attached to the ECU for you to make changes (basically what U get is what U get and each car is diff). I seriously think this mod is not going to work for *me* as I like tuning with S-AFCs and Emanages for less and have more controll. Thanx.
#4
Who makes ECUs for the 3.5 and how much power gains are there?
Is there a higher redline?
Is it for both auto and manual trannies?
Does a higher redline mean the engine wont last as long since its going through more pressure?
How much is it?
#5
Thank you you studlyman you.
Originally Posted by studman
Technosquare. The gains are dependent on your current mods.
Yes. They upgrade it to 7100 from 6600 (auto) or 6900 (manual).
Yes.
As long as you don't keep the car at or near redline for more than a second, you should be ok.
$495 + $25 return shipping.
Yes. They upgrade it to 7100 from 6600 (auto) or 6900 (manual).
Yes.
As long as you don't keep the car at or near redline for more than a second, you should be ok.
$495 + $25 return shipping.
#6
Or you could get the Limited Spec from Technosquare for $345. The L Spec:
- raises the rev limiter (up to 7100 rpm)
- eliminates the speed limiter
- remaps the drive by wire
No changes are made to timing or A/F ratios.
http://www.technosquareinc.com/limited.htm
- raises the rev limiter (up to 7100 rpm)
- eliminates the speed limiter
- remaps the drive by wire
No changes are made to timing or A/F ratios.
http://www.technosquareinc.com/limited.htm
#7
The full version does this:
http://www.technosquareinc.com/maxima.htm
If you get teh L-spec then I would suggest getting SAFC-II for on the dot max power A/F ratio. Its probably a little more expensive but its the best way to go.
I have the TS ECU (the whole shebang... I think they call it the f-spec or whatever)
Read this entire thread before you form an opinion.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=299890
Along with that information in that thread is some track info:
My best run to date is:
RT: +0.311
60': 2.230 (best)
330': 6.114
1/8ET: 9.309 (best)
1/8MPH: 76.25
1000': 11.987
1/4ET: 14.302 (best)
1/4MPH: 99.52 (close to best)
I usually shift when my tach says 7000rpm but according to many on here and my dynos the tach is off a bit. At 7000rpm on the tach I am actually at about 6700rpm. I should be revving out to 7400rpm and when I input my dyno numbers into shift point calculators they say I should be shifting at redline in every gear. In that case it may be possible for me to reduce times a bit more. That run was done on a track at 700ft elevation. I dont remember the atmospheric conditions. I have not been to the 1/4 strip since this last run. I have been to the 1/8mi a couple of times and have been runnning consistant 9.3/low 9.4 1/8ETs around 75/76 on a good run (no bogging/spinning/ missed shiftes etc.) Just recently I pulled a 9.378 on a damp track with a 2.300 60' (let off in the 60' becuase of massive wheel hop... whipers were going, coin holder emptied its contents, sun roof cover slid back, dash lights came on).
http://www.technosquareinc.com/maxima.htm
If you get teh L-spec then I would suggest getting SAFC-II for on the dot max power A/F ratio. Its probably a little more expensive but its the best way to go.
I have the TS ECU (the whole shebang... I think they call it the f-spec or whatever)
Read this entire thread before you form an opinion.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=299890
Along with that information in that thread is some track info:
My best run to date is:
RT: +0.311
60': 2.230 (best)
330': 6.114
1/8ET: 9.309 (best)
1/8MPH: 76.25
1000': 11.987
1/4ET: 14.302 (best)
1/4MPH: 99.52 (close to best)
I usually shift when my tach says 7000rpm but according to many on here and my dynos the tach is off a bit. At 7000rpm on the tach I am actually at about 6700rpm. I should be revving out to 7400rpm and when I input my dyno numbers into shift point calculators they say I should be shifting at redline in every gear. In that case it may be possible for me to reduce times a bit more. That run was done on a track at 700ft elevation. I dont remember the atmospheric conditions. I have not been to the 1/4 strip since this last run. I have been to the 1/8mi a couple of times and have been runnning consistant 9.3/low 9.4 1/8ETs around 75/76 on a good run (no bogging/spinning/ missed shiftes etc.) Just recently I pulled a 9.378 on a damp track with a 2.300 60' (let off in the 60' becuase of massive wheel hop... whipers were going, coin holder emptied its contents, sun roof cover slid back, dash lights came on).
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