Failed Inspection b/of Bad Power Steering Belt???
08-30-2004, 08:41 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 274
Failed Inspection b/of Bad Power Steering Belt???
Hey guys... just wanted some insight on what you all thought. I brought my 03 Max in for an inspection. I accum'd 61k miles to date and the mechanic at the gas station said it was time for a new power steering belt. My friends believe the guy is trying to rip me off. What I'd like to know is DO I REALLY NEED A CHANGE OF BELT? and.. should I take my car some where else? Any input would be appreciated.
08-30-2004, 09:29 AM
#2
It's chrome alright...
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,009
I've never had anyone check the power steering belt during an inspection...in fact they've never even opened the hood on my car.
Have him show you the list of stuff he's supposed to inspect and show you where it says "power steering belt." If it's really there then great...if it's not...
How do I file a complaint about a repair shop, inspection station or dealer?
http://www.nysdmv.com/vehsafe.htm#complaint
Have him show you the list of stuff he's supposed to inspect and show you where it says "power steering belt." If it's really there then great...if it's not...
How do I file a complaint about a repair shop, inspection station or dealer?
http://www.nysdmv.com/vehsafe.htm#complaint
08-30-2004, 09:41 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 274
Hey thanks for the reply... Although I believe this guy was being an a**, it seems he did have the right to inform me about the belt replacement under NYS DMV regulations. I found this on the NYS DMV web site:
The following safety equipment must be in good condition at all times, and is evaluated when a vehicle is subjected to New York State inspection.
Seat Belts
Inspect for proper operation and anchorage.
Model years 1969 and newer - one seat belt is required for each seating position.
Model years 1967 and 1968 - two front seat belts are required (driver position included), and one seat belt is required for each seating position elsewhere in the vehicle.
Model years 1965 and 1966 - two front seat belts are required (driver position included).
Brakes
At least one front wheel must be removed to inspect brakes.
Brake pedal reserve - brake pedal must have 1/3 reserve.
Brake pedal fade - brake must hold for one minute without fading.
Power brake unit - check for damage.
Brake master cylinder - check for leakage and proper fluid level.
Disc brake pads - check condition.
Drum brake linings - thickness of linings must be at least 1/16 inch on bonded linings or at least 1/32 inch over rivet head on riveted linings, with no loose or missing rivets or lining.
Brake drums and/or rotors - check condition.
Wheel cylinders and/or calipers - check for leakage.
All brake lines and hoses - check for leaks, cracks, improper support, flattened, etc..
Parking brake - check for components and function.
Brake equalization - test vehicle for a straight stop without significant wheel pull.
STEERING, FRONT END, SUSPENSION, CHASSIS, FRAME, WHEEL FASTENERS
Front end assembly - check condition.
Steering wheel play - check for excessive freeplay.
All steering linkage - check for tightness or binding, excessive wear and/or looseness in parts, including idler arm, center control arm, tie-rod ends, drag link ends, steering and pitman arms gear box, cross shafts, bushings, wheel bearings, steering column or steering wheel shaft mounting.
Power steering - check operation, condition of belt, and for leakage.
Shock absorbers - check shock mountings and for broken or missing shock absorbers.
Springs and torsion bars - check for sagging or broken springs, or a broken, disconnected, missing or bent torsion or stabilizer bar.
Chassis/frame - check for breaks, cracks, or severe rust at the suspension attachment points.
Wheel fasteners - check for missing or broken parts.
Each Tire (Except spare)
Tread depth - must be at least 2/32 inch when measured in two adjacent major tread grooves showing the most wear.
Tire condition - check for any fabric break or cut over I inch, visible bumps, bulges or knots, and any restricted use designation on the tire.
Lights
All lighting must be of an approved type and inspected for operation, proper mounting, and broken or missing lenses:
Headlights (low and high beam).
Tail lamps.
Stop lamps.
Directional signals.
Backup lights (1969 and newer).
License plate lights.
Hazard warning/four-way flasher (1966 and newer).
Directional signal indicator.
Windshield And Other Glass
Windshield - check for presence and condition.
All windows - approved safety glass or rigid plastic and condition.
Windshield Wipers And Blades
Wipers - check for presence and operation.
Blades - check condition.
Horn
Check mounting and operation.
Mirrors
Check mirror location and mounting, and for cracks, breaks, or discoloration:
Model year 1970 and newer - check adjustable interior and left outside mirror-.
Model year 1968 and 1969 - check interior mirror and one left outside mirror.
1967 and older - check interior mirror or left outside mirror.
oh well... I'm going to take my car to another place and get hooked up!!! lol
The following safety equipment must be in good condition at all times, and is evaluated when a vehicle is subjected to New York State inspection.
Seat Belts
Inspect for proper operation and anchorage.
Model years 1969 and newer - one seat belt is required for each seating position.
Model years 1967 and 1968 - two front seat belts are required (driver position included), and one seat belt is required for each seating position elsewhere in the vehicle.
Model years 1965 and 1966 - two front seat belts are required (driver position included).
Brakes
At least one front wheel must be removed to inspect brakes.
Brake pedal reserve - brake pedal must have 1/3 reserve.
Brake pedal fade - brake must hold for one minute without fading.
Power brake unit - check for damage.
Brake master cylinder - check for leakage and proper fluid level.
Disc brake pads - check condition.
Drum brake linings - thickness of linings must be at least 1/16 inch on bonded linings or at least 1/32 inch over rivet head on riveted linings, with no loose or missing rivets or lining.
Brake drums and/or rotors - check condition.
Wheel cylinders and/or calipers - check for leakage.
All brake lines and hoses - check for leaks, cracks, improper support, flattened, etc..
Parking brake - check for components and function.
Brake equalization - test vehicle for a straight stop without significant wheel pull.
STEERING, FRONT END, SUSPENSION, CHASSIS, FRAME, WHEEL FASTENERS
Front end assembly - check condition.
Steering wheel play - check for excessive freeplay.
All steering linkage - check for tightness or binding, excessive wear and/or looseness in parts, including idler arm, center control arm, tie-rod ends, drag link ends, steering and pitman arms gear box, cross shafts, bushings, wheel bearings, steering column or steering wheel shaft mounting.
Power steering - check operation, condition of belt, and for leakage.
Shock absorbers - check shock mountings and for broken or missing shock absorbers.
Springs and torsion bars - check for sagging or broken springs, or a broken, disconnected, missing or bent torsion or stabilizer bar.
Chassis/frame - check for breaks, cracks, or severe rust at the suspension attachment points.
Wheel fasteners - check for missing or broken parts.
Each Tire (Except spare)
Tread depth - must be at least 2/32 inch when measured in two adjacent major tread grooves showing the most wear.
Tire condition - check for any fabric break or cut over I inch, visible bumps, bulges or knots, and any restricted use designation on the tire.
Lights
All lighting must be of an approved type and inspected for operation, proper mounting, and broken or missing lenses:
Headlights (low and high beam).
Tail lamps.
Stop lamps.
Directional signals.
Backup lights (1969 and newer).
License plate lights.
Hazard warning/four-way flasher (1966 and newer).
Directional signal indicator.
Windshield And Other Glass
Windshield - check for presence and condition.
All windows - approved safety glass or rigid plastic and condition.
Windshield Wipers And Blades
Wipers - check for presence and operation.
Blades - check condition.
Horn
Check mounting and operation.
Mirrors
Check mirror location and mounting, and for cracks, breaks, or discoloration:
Model year 1970 and newer - check adjustable interior and left outside mirror-.
Model year 1968 and 1969 - check interior mirror and one left outside mirror.
1967 and older - check interior mirror or left outside mirror.
oh well... I'm going to take my car to another place and get hooked up!!! lol
08-31-2004, 06:05 PM
#4
Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Mechanicsville, VA
Posts: 262
Your belt should be fine. If NY is like Virginia where the service/inspections stations make most of there profit from safety inspections then I'm sure he's trying to rip you off. Most mechanics wouldn't even bother looking under the hood of a car a few years old.
08-31-2004, 06:20 PM
#5
Hate to ask the obvious - but did you check the belt yourself? If the belt is bad, it will exhibit one of the following signs:
1. missing ribs (the grooved side)
2. seperation (belt looks like it's peeling - like string cheese)
3. glazing (looks like...um...glazing - like the belt is getting hard and shiny)
4. large cracks (belts are ok if there are small cracks on the ribbing on the inside of the belt though)
5. oil soaked in it (if somehow a leak was aloowing oil/fluids onto the belt)
6. visible partial breakage.
basically - if the belt looks ok, then it generally is. all of the things listed above are fairly noticeable. I find it HARD to believe that a car only 2 yrs old would have large craks, fraying, or glazing. it is possible that some kind of debris got in there and caused there to be a small tear/rip or seperation in the belt - and that is something that you would notice.
so take a look at the belt and SEE for yourself - don't take a gas station dude's word on something this simple. Or....go back and tell him to show you exactly where on the belt the problem is. 66K and 2 years of wear and tear are well within the lifespan of the belts, so there should be a VISIBLE problem if he's telling the truth.
btw - buy a Haynes manual, I think they have pics of what bad belts look like....I think I missed a few things above, but those are all i can remember.
1. missing ribs (the grooved side)
2. seperation (belt looks like it's peeling - like string cheese)
3. glazing (looks like...um...glazing - like the belt is getting hard and shiny)
4. large cracks (belts are ok if there are small cracks on the ribbing on the inside of the belt though)
5. oil soaked in it (if somehow a leak was aloowing oil/fluids onto the belt)
6. visible partial breakage.
basically - if the belt looks ok, then it generally is. all of the things listed above are fairly noticeable. I find it HARD to believe that a car only 2 yrs old would have large craks, fraying, or glazing. it is possible that some kind of debris got in there and caused there to be a small tear/rip or seperation in the belt - and that is something that you would notice.
so take a look at the belt and SEE for yourself - don't take a gas station dude's word on something this simple. Or....go back and tell him to show you exactly where on the belt the problem is. 66K and 2 years of wear and tear are well within the lifespan of the belts, so there should be a VISIBLE problem if he's telling the truth.
btw - buy a Haynes manual, I think they have pics of what bad belts look like....I think I missed a few things above, but those are all i can remember.
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