MAF sensor
#1
MAF sensor
Is there any way to tell that my mass air flow sensor is busted before i replace it? i have the power loss problem when the car is being floored like it feels like power is being cut out .
#4
I have the same problem and it has gotten so bad that I cannot drive the car, engine won't run for more than 1 minute. Pulled the fault code and it is P0171/P0174 or Fuel Lean Code. The car only has 88,000 KM (55,000 MI) on it and I just got through replacing the coils ($475)!! A new MAF sensor is $629 Canadian. Is this a common problem with the Max? I don't know for sure that it's the MAF, anybody have any more info or suggestions?
Dannodotcom
Dannodotcom
#5
Replaced my MAF today.
I had the same problems. Car started surging at startup (at first) and got worse. I changed the plugs and started putting in 93 octane. Stopped the pinging , but something was not right. SES light came on adn I took it to Autozone to get the codes. Just like you, P0171, P0172, P0174. IActually replaced my MAF today and it cost me $220 including parts. The part is $121 at Nissan dealership and is not that much trouble to put in by yourself. Directions are all over this site. I heard that aftermarket filters (ie. K&N) will kill a MAF, but I have been running stock for the first 95K.
good luck,
G
good luck,
G
#6
why don't you guys take them out and spray them with electric parts cleaner? i was having some serious hesitation at 5K rpm and that's what i did and all feels well now. if you have aftermarket air filters you may have over-oiled it and gotten it on your MAFS.
#8
Originally Posted by BP2K2Max
why don't you guys take them out and spray them with electric parts cleaner? i was having some serious hesitation at 5K rpm and that's what i did and all feels well now. if you have aftermarket air filters you may have over-oiled it and gotten it on your MAFS.
#9
Originally Posted by GimmeTorq
I got to try this... Mine hesitates a bit.
#12
I have posted this about 100 times no, bad MAF does NOT have to trip a check engine light, BAD MAF CAN also go past 2400 RPMs. Sluggish throttle response, engine feels like its straining at any rpm, power delivery is not smooth but feels like it has flat spots, engine won't go past 2400RPM, hesitation when trans downshifts from 3rd to 1st gear - all signs of a BAD MAF. Make sure to recalibrate- reprogram the ECU for the new UPDATED MAF, yes the car will run better than with the old busted MAF... but you really won't feel the difference till ya have the ECU reprogrammed at the Nissan dealer. THEY ARE THE ONLY ONES WHO CAN REPROGRAM THE ECU. If out of warranty go to Nissan, ask to speak with one of the senior techs- aka journey man. Tell him what your deal is, and if is willing to reprogram your cars computer- aka ECU, cause your out of warranty. Slip him like 40 bux to do this and you will be fine. AutoZone CAN NOT reprogram ECUs, yes they can scan for codes n clear them- but only Nissan Consult II can reprogram our 32 bit ECUs. This thread comes up every 2-3 days it looks like, and every time people give out false advice. Cleaning up the MAF with electrical parts cleaner don't do ****, if the maf is ****ed its done, its not like the cleaner is some magic potion that will bring the MAF back from the dead.
#13
Originally Posted by 2k3TitaniumSe
Having a bad MAF Sensor should not let you rev past 2500 rpms.
#14
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
I have posted this about 100 times no, bad MAF does NOT have to trip a check engine light, BAD MAF CAN also go past 2400 RPMs. Sluggish throttle response, engine feels like its straining at any rpm, power delivery is not smooth but feels like it has flat spots, engine won't go past 2400RPM, hesitation when trans downshifts from 3rd to 1st gear - all signs of a BAD MAF. Make sure to recalibrate- reprogram the ECU for the new UPDATED MAF, yes the car will run better than with the old busted MAF... but you really won't feel the difference till ya have the ECU reprogrammed at the Nissan dealer. THEY ARE THE ONLY ONES WHO CAN REPROGRAM THE ECU. If out of warranty go to Nissan, ask to speak with one of the senior techs- aka journey man. Tell him what your deal is, and if is willing to reprogram your cars computer- aka ECU, cause your out of warranty. Slip him like 40 bux to do this and you will be fine. AutoZone CAN NOT reprogram ECUs, yes they can scan for codes n clear them- but only Nissan Consult II can reprogram our 32 bit ECUs. This thread comes up every 2-3 days it looks like, and every time people give out false advice. Cleaning up the MAF with electrical parts cleaner don't do ****, if the maf is ****ed its done, its not like the cleaner is some magic potion that will bring the MAF back from the dead.
#15
Cleaning up the MAF with electrical parts cleaner don't do ****, if the maf is ****ed its done, its not like the cleaner is some magic potion that will bring the MAF back from the dead.
#16
Mike, since you are it, let me ask you something...
In hot weather my 2k2 sometimes runs like crap... it hesitates from the light. It just feels I'm pulling a tank full of water (accelerates in surges instead of in a linear power increase... hope what I'm describing makes sense). Now that we're getting some 70 and 60 degree F days here in Chicago, it just feels normal. Really good linear acceleration. I did have the MAF replaced and the ECU re-programmed by the good guys at Woodfield. It definitely made a difference in responsiveness. But I was thinking there could still be something wrong with the MAF, just because it seems to disappear or be less obvious when it is cold outside...
BTW, it still has the stock intake.
In hot weather my 2k2 sometimes runs like crap... it hesitates from the light. It just feels I'm pulling a tank full of water (accelerates in surges instead of in a linear power increase... hope what I'm describing makes sense). Now that we're getting some 70 and 60 degree F days here in Chicago, it just feels normal. Really good linear acceleration. I did have the MAF replaced and the ECU re-programmed by the good guys at Woodfield. It definitely made a difference in responsiveness. But I was thinking there could still be something wrong with the MAF, just because it seems to disappear or be less obvious when it is cold outside...
BTW, it still has the stock intake.
#17
Originally Posted by dannodotcom
I have the same problem and it has gotten so bad that I cannot drive the car, engine won't run for more than 1 minute. Pulled the fault code and it is P0171/P0174 or Fuel Lean Code. The car only has 88,000 KM (55,000 MI) on it and I just got through replacing the coils ($475)!! A new MAF sensor is $629 Canadian. Is this a common problem with the Max? I don't know for sure that it's the MAF, anybody have any more info or suggestions?
Dannodotcom
Dannodotcom
#18
This is something you will not be able to get rid off- sluggishness when its really hot outside. My Maxima feels the same way when its hot. Intake air temp tells the ECU its really hot outside, MAF reads the density of the air and ECU back down the timing so that the car does not detonate. My car has no traction at all what so ever in 1st gear under wide open throttle. I can sometimes break the tires loose from 40MPH in 2nd gear by just stabbing the gas pedal when its around 50 deg outside. Once its like 100F outside... its hard to roast up the front tires from a roll on. You could fool the ECU by having a resistor on the intake temp sensor, but it might not be a wise idea when its hot outside, you have 4 more people in the car and AC on- high chance for detonation.
#19
My MAF Replacement Experience
I had rough idle and poor acceleration on my 2K. I borrowed an OReilly ODB-II reader and read the "fuel lean" code. Based on postings here I decided to try cleaning the MAF sensor. Bad idea. When I took the sensor out I expected a hot-wire anemometer - something we Instrument Engineers call a thermal dispersion air flow meter. What I found was a thin-film sensor that was almost impossible to reach - even when I carefully pried open the housing. I douched it with electronic cleaner and blew canned air through it.
By the way, my sensor was held in place with Torx security screws. Whenever I encounter those %$&!@! things I cut a big screwdriver slot right through the middle of them with a Dremel cut-off disk. Works like a charm.
Upon reinstallation - I found I the sensor was DOA. The ECU went into the failsafe mode - limiting engine revs. Wincing, I got out the yellow pages and called two nearby Maxima dealers for an MAF quote. One was $130 the other was $103. Wearing a sheepish grin I drove slowly over to the low bidder to buy Nissan part# 22680-2Y001.
When I arrived at the dealer I unplugged the cable on the right side of my ECU. To do that you remove the passenger side kick panel and release the black lever on the large modular connector.
When I got back out to my car I opened the part box and found they sold me the MAF along with the whole darn meter body and debris screen. There was a nasty little note in the box warning against placing the MAF sensor in the old meter body. It also mentioned that TSB NTB01-03/ITB01-029 must be followed to reprogram the ECU using secret sauce. I compared the meter body to the original and it was identical.
After looking around to see if the Nissan service advisors were watching me - I switched out the sensors. Thank goodness the new one had a regular Torx screw. I plugged in the ECU cable and started the car. It performed beautifully - and still does weeks later.
Either I was lucky or the variations in the MAF sensors are small enough that the ECU can compensate using the O2 signal. Or.... maybe the factory is issuing a overly conservative replacement procedure that will, at worst, result in over-charged customers. Or perhaps my reckless disregard of factory mandates will catch up to me sometime in the next 100k miles or so...
By the way, my sensor was held in place with Torx security screws. Whenever I encounter those %$&!@! things I cut a big screwdriver slot right through the middle of them with a Dremel cut-off disk. Works like a charm.
Upon reinstallation - I found I the sensor was DOA. The ECU went into the failsafe mode - limiting engine revs. Wincing, I got out the yellow pages and called two nearby Maxima dealers for an MAF quote. One was $130 the other was $103. Wearing a sheepish grin I drove slowly over to the low bidder to buy Nissan part# 22680-2Y001.
When I arrived at the dealer I unplugged the cable on the right side of my ECU. To do that you remove the passenger side kick panel and release the black lever on the large modular connector.
When I got back out to my car I opened the part box and found they sold me the MAF along with the whole darn meter body and debris screen. There was a nasty little note in the box warning against placing the MAF sensor in the old meter body. It also mentioned that TSB NTB01-03/ITB01-029 must be followed to reprogram the ECU using secret sauce. I compared the meter body to the original and it was identical.
After looking around to see if the Nissan service advisors were watching me - I switched out the sensors. Thank goodness the new one had a regular Torx screw. I plugged in the ECU cable and started the car. It performed beautifully - and still does weeks later.
Either I was lucky or the variations in the MAF sensors are small enough that the ECU can compensate using the O2 signal. Or.... maybe the factory is issuing a overly conservative replacement procedure that will, at worst, result in over-charged customers. Or perhaps my reckless disregard of factory mandates will catch up to me sometime in the next 100k miles or so...
#21
2000SE, new MAF old (not reprogrammed) ECU software
I just replaced my MAF (no error codes, but the car ran like crap). It fixed the problem. (Cleaning the old one had done nothing.) I did not have the software updated, but the car sure seems to run great!
Question: has anyone had any issues with NOT having the ECU program updated? (A slip with the new MAF has a warning that lists TSBs with info on the software update for the new MAF.) My only concern is that it's really running lean or something and it may cause problems down the road.
Question: has anyone had any issues with NOT having the ECU program updated? (A slip with the new MAF has a warning that lists TSBs with info on the software update for the new MAF.) My only concern is that it's really running lean or something and it may cause problems down the road.
#22
wrong part?????
guys, i jus got my MAF from pinnacle nissan part# 22680-2y001
i am doing the actual replacement now and when i look in the old one.. the sensor is shorter than the new one. at the top of the old one where the plug goes in, it only has 4 pins to connect. the new one shows 5 pins.. did i get the wrong part? i have a 2000 maxima SE. damn what's going on.. and i gotta meet a someone in half an hour!!!!
help help
thanx
i am doing the actual replacement now and when i look in the old one.. the sensor is shorter than the new one. at the top of the old one where the plug goes in, it only has 4 pins to connect. the new one shows 5 pins.. did i get the wrong part? i have a 2000 maxima SE. damn what's going on.. and i gotta meet a someone in half an hour!!!!
help help
thanx
#24
Originally Posted by jeglenn
I just replaced my MAF (no error codes, but the car ran like crap). It fixed the problem. (Cleaning the old one had done nothing.) I did not have the software updated, but the car sure seems to run great!
Question: has anyone had any issues with NOT having the ECU program updated? (A slip with the new MAF has a warning that lists TSBs with info on the software update for the new MAF.) My only concern is that it's really running lean or something and it may cause problems down the road.
Question: has anyone had any issues with NOT having the ECU program updated? (A slip with the new MAF has a warning that lists TSBs with info on the software update for the new MAF.) My only concern is that it's really running lean or something and it may cause problems down the road.
#25
Originally Posted by kasonw
guys, i jus got my MAF from pinnacle nissan part# 22680-2y001
i am doing the actual replacement now and when i look in the old one.. the sensor is shorter than the new one. at the top of the old one where the plug goes in, it only has 4 pins to connect. the new one shows 5 pins.. did i get the wrong part? i have a 2000 maxima SE. damn what's going on.. and i gotta meet a someone in half an hour!!!!
help help
thanx
i am doing the actual replacement now and when i look in the old one.. the sensor is shorter than the new one. at the top of the old one where the plug goes in, it only has 4 pins to connect. the new one shows 5 pins.. did i get the wrong part? i have a 2000 maxima SE. damn what's going on.. and i gotta meet a someone in half an hour!!!!
help help
thanx
#28
An old vet bumped a 2 year old thread. Hmm, seems like it belongs in here though.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=520677
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=520677
#30
Yeah, his name was mentioned several times in this very thread along with the Nissan dealership he works at. Since I'm not an ***, I'll tell you his name, but you'll have to dig up his phone number yourself: David Burnette at Southpoint Nissan in Texas.
#31
After months and maybe years of reading forums and trying to decide what was wrong with my Max I finally replaced the MAF. Holy cow I wish I hadn't waited so long. It's so nice to have my car back. I hadn't realized how bad it got while I dragged my butt. I highly recommend it if you are unsure. I bought the part off of ebay (double checked part number with dealership) for about 85 all together. I loved the results so much I would easily pay the extra 20 bucks to buy it from a dealer and do it the same day rather than wait for shipping. It was an easy switch. The dang electrical plug was the hardest thing to get undone. I love driving it again. I was so happy I went to the dealer and grabbed my ankles while they reprogrammed my ECU. I can't say if the reprog was worth it, but I figured I'd go all the way as I seemed to have confirmed the problem. Anyway, thanks for all the input!
BTW: I could rev up the car pretty far before the repair, but very very slowly usually. I have a manual but I can see how some of the power cuts I was feeling could be mistaken for a poorly timed shift in an automatic. I did notice a difference in the size of the sensor within the assembly, but I didn’t have any issues with the plug. Good Luck.
BTW: I could rev up the car pretty far before the repair, but very very slowly usually. I have a manual but I can see how some of the power cuts I was feeling could be mistaken for a poorly timed shift in an automatic. I did notice a difference in the size of the sensor within the assembly, but I didn’t have any issues with the plug. Good Luck.
#32
Originally Posted by Mikeb120
I just replaced my MAF sensor yesterday and got the re-program. OMG - its a like a new car.......glad to have it back!!
Thank you again for all your help!!
Thank you again for all your help!!
#33
#34
okay so ive read all the 321651616 different threads about updating to a 2001 maf. now i know you have to take the thermister from the 2k2 and put it in the 2k1, my question i guess would be were does it go? ive read it fits between some prongs and what not and it might or might not need to be soldered so im confused. also can the dealership reprogram the ecu with the am600 program although im running a 2k1 maf?
#35
If you read all the threads than it's a matter of having confidence. If you don't which it sounds like, take it to the dealership.
Explain please.
also can the dealership reprogram the ecu with the am600 program although im running a 2k1 maf?
#36
what i mean about the reprogram is, if i install a new 2k1 maf w/ the iat swap and it requires a reprogram of the ecu, then would they update it with the 2k3 maf info altough i have a 2k1s maf installed? would that affect anything or would the ecu read the 2k1 maf as a 2k2-2k3 maf?
also its not that im not confident, its the fact that my car is my dd and i dont have a back up in case something goes wrong w/ the car. i just want to make sure i do it right the first time so i dont have to re-repair it again down the road.
also its not that im not confident, its the fact that my car is my dd and i dont have a back up in case something goes wrong w/ the car. i just want to make sure i do it right the first time so i dont have to re-repair it again down the road.
#37
Originally Posted by nk2k2
what i mean about the reprogram is, if i install a new 2k1 maf w/ the iat swap and it requires a reprogram of the ecu, then would they update it with the 2k3 maf info altough i have a 2k1s maf installed? would that affect anything or would the ecu read the 2k1 maf as a 2k2-2k3 maf?
also its not that im not confident, its the fact that my car is my dd and i dont have a back up in case something goes wrong w/ the car. i just want to make sure i do it right the first time so i dont have to re-repair it again down the road.
also its not that im not confident, its the fact that my car is my dd and i dont have a back up in case something goes wrong w/ the car. i just want to make sure i do it right the first time so i dont have to re-repair it again down the road.
#38
Once you have the new MAF installed, then you will know if it needs a reprogram or not. he car will not drive correctly if it does. If it drives well, then you might as well not worry.
#39
Sorry to hijack the thread here....I don't have enough posts yet to make my own thread
I'm working on a 2000 Nissan maxima GLE. I'm putting a Weapon-r Intake on and i'm also replacing a mass airflow sensor that has apparently died.
The intake isn't here yet but I tried installing the sensor and it doesn't seem to be working correctly. Granted maybe it is the new "updated" version and just needs to work itself into the ECU a little....
And there lays my question....this thing looks much different then the stock one. The stock had the outside wire, and all 5 terminals on the plug. The new one has no outside wire, and only 4 terminals in the plug, though I did notice the plug on the car only has 4 wires going into it.
Anyone know if this is the new updated MAF sensor? Or might this be the wrong part?
http://img804.imageshack.us/slidesho...hp?id=maf1.jpg
Thanks
I'm working on a 2000 Nissan maxima GLE. I'm putting a Weapon-r Intake on and i'm also replacing a mass airflow sensor that has apparently died.
The intake isn't here yet but I tried installing the sensor and it doesn't seem to be working correctly. Granted maybe it is the new "updated" version and just needs to work itself into the ECU a little....
And there lays my question....this thing looks much different then the stock one. The stock had the outside wire, and all 5 terminals on the plug. The new one has no outside wire, and only 4 terminals in the plug, though I did notice the plug on the car only has 4 wires going into it.
Anyone know if this is the new updated MAF sensor? Or might this be the wrong part?
http://img804.imageshack.us/slidesho...hp?id=maf1.jpg
Thanks
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