Is there any way to tell that my mass air flow sensor is busted before i replace it? i have the power loss problem when the car is being floored like it feels like power is being cut out .

 

Having a bad MAF Sensor should not let you rev past 2500 rpms.

 

i can rev the car as high as i want but why am i havig surging/lurching??

 

I have the same problem and it has gotten so bad that I cannot drive the car, engine won't run for more than 1 minute. Pulled the fault code and it is P0171/P0174 or Fuel Lean Code. The car only has 88,000 KM (55,000 MI) on it and I just got through replacing the coils ($475)!! A new MAF sensor is $629 Canadian. Is this a common problem with the Max? I don't know for sure that it's the MAF, anybody have any more info or suggestions?

Dannodotcom

 

I had the same problems. Car started surging at startup (at first) and got worse. I changed the plugs and started putting in 93 octane. Stopped the pinging , but something was not right. SES light came on adn I took it to Autozone to get the codes. Just like you, P0171, P0172, P0174. IActually replaced my MAF today and it cost me $220 including parts. The part is $121 at Nissan dealership and is not that much trouble to put in by yourself. Directions are all over this site. I heard that aftermarket filters (ie. K&N) will kill a MAF, but I have been running stock for the first 95K.

good luck,


G

 

why don't you guys take them out and spray them with electric parts cleaner? i was having some serious hesitation at 5K rpm and that's what i did and all feels well now. if you have aftermarket air filters you may have over-oiled it and gotten it on your MAFS.

 

try driving it w/o the tcs on see what happens, i wonder if theres something that causes a malfunction with that system.

 

I got to try this... Mine hesitates a bit.

 

it can't hurt. i took the actual maf element out of the black tube(housing) and after spraying it with electric parts cleaner i went over it VERY lightly with a q-tip.

 

Cool... I was about to ask you if you took the complete MAF with housing and everything of just the filament itself. Did you reset the ECU afterwards?

 

no, i didn't.

 

I have posted this about 100 times no, bad MAF does NOT have to trip a check engine light, BAD MAF CAN also go past 2400 RPMs. Sluggish throttle response, engine feels like its straining at any rpm, power delivery is not smooth but feels like it has flat spots, engine won't go past 2400RPM, hesitation when trans downshifts from 3rd to 1st gear - all signs of a BAD MAF. Make sure to recalibrate- reprogram the ECU for the new UPDATED MAF, yes the car will run better than with the old busted MAF... but you really won't feel the difference till ya have the ECU reprogrammed at the Nissan dealer. THEY ARE THE ONLY ONES WHO CAN REPROGRAM THE ECU. If out of warranty go to Nissan, ask to speak with one of the senior techs- aka journey man. Tell him what your deal is, and if is willing to reprogram your cars computer- aka ECU, cause your out of warranty. Slip him like 40 bux to do this and you will be fine. AutoZone CAN NOT reprogram ECUs, yes they can scan for codes n clear them- but only Nissan Consult II can reprogram our 32 bit ECUs. This thread comes up every 2-3 days it looks like, and every time people give out false advice. Cleaning up the MAF with electrical parts cleaner don't do ****, if the maf is ****ed its done, its not like the cleaner is some magic potion that will bring the MAF back from the dead.

 

No, that is merely one of the symptoms of a bad MAF. As mentioned, a bad maf can be bad and not throw a code, and not give the 2500 rpm issue either.

 

so all the talk about dinconnecting the -ve terminal doesn't do crap??i changed my maf a few months back, along with the coils. the car runs great, but i should take it to get it reprogramed???

 

Not entirely true. If the MAF has gone bad, no, cleaning won't help. Problem is, a dirty MAF can exhibit some of the same symptoms. Cleaning is a cheap way to find out if your MAF needs to be replaced. So be smart and spend 5 minutes rather than plunk down $100 for part that may still work.

 

Mike, since you are it, let me ask you something...

In hot weather my 2k2 sometimes runs like crap... it hesitates from the light. It just feels I'm pulling a tank full of water (accelerates in surges instead of in a linear power increase... hope what I'm describing makes sense). Now that we're getting some 70 and 60 degree F days here in Chicago, it just feels normal. Really good linear acceleration. I did have the MAF replaced and the ECU re-programmed by the good guys at Woodfield. It definitely made a difference in responsiveness. But I was thinking there could still be something wrong with the MAF, just because it seems to disappear or be less obvious when it is cold outside...
BTW, it still has the stock intake.

 

Buy it from Southpoint Nissan in Austin. Ask to speak to Dave Burnett and ask him to send it via USPS to avoid brokerage fees. Total including shipping and GST was $145 CAD. I had mine in a week.

 

This is something you will not be able to get rid off- sluggishness when its really hot outside. My Maxima feels the same way when its hot. Intake air temp tells the ECU its really hot outside, MAF reads the density of the air and ECU back down the timing so that the car does not detonate. My car has no traction at all what so ever in 1st gear under wide open throttle. I can sometimes break the tires loose from 40MPH in 2nd gear by just stabbing the gas pedal when its around 50 deg outside. Once its like 100F outside... its hard to roast up the front tires from a roll on. You could fool the ECU by having a resistor on the intake temp sensor, but it might not be a wise idea when its hot outside, you have 4 more people in the car and AC on- high chance for detonation.

 

I had rough idle and poor acceleration on my 2K. I borrowed an OReilly ODB-II reader and read the "fuel lean" code. Based on postings here I decided to try cleaning the MAF sensor. Bad idea. When I took the sensor out I expected a hot-wire anemometer - something we Instrument Engineers call a thermal dispersion air flow meter. What I found was a thin-film sensor that was almost impossible to reach - even when I carefully pried open the housing. I douched it with electronic cleaner and blew canned air through it.

By the way, my sensor was held in place with Torx security screws. Whenever I encounter those %$&!@! things I cut a big screwdriver slot right through the middle of them with a Dremel cut-off disk. Works like a charm.

Upon reinstallation - I found I the sensor was DOA. The ECU went into the failsafe mode - limiting engine revs. Wincing, I got out the yellow pages and called two nearby Maxima dealers for an MAF quote. One was $130 the other was $103. Wearing a sheepish grin I drove slowly over to the low bidder to buy Nissan part# 22680-2Y001.

When I arrived at the dealer I unplugged the cable on the right side of my ECU. To do that you remove the passenger side kick panel and release the black lever on the large modular connector.

When I got back out to my car I opened the part box and found they sold me the MAF along with the whole darn meter body and debris screen. There was a nasty little note in the box warning against placing the MAF sensor in the old meter body. It also mentioned that TSB NTB01-03/ITB01-029 must be followed to reprogram the ECU using secret sauce. I compared the meter body to the original and it was identical.

After looking around to see if the Nissan service advisors were watching me - I switched out the sensors. Thank goodness the new one had a regular Torx screw. I plugged in the ECU cable and started the car. It performed beautifully - and still does weeks later.

Either I was lucky or the variations in the MAF sensors are small enough that the ECU can compensate using the O2 signal. Or.... maybe the factory is issuing a overly conservative replacement procedure that will, at worst, result in over-charged customers. Or perhaps my reckless disregard of factory mandates will catch up to me sometime in the next 100k miles or so...

 

i want to learn how to make MAF's. then i can replace one each weekend, before i head downtown

 

I just replaced my MAF (no error codes, but the car ran like crap). It fixed the problem. (Cleaning the old one had done nothing.) I did not have the software updated, but the car sure seems to run great!

Question: has anyone had any issues with NOT having the ECU program updated? (A slip with the new MAF has a warning that lists TSBs with info on the software update for the new MAF.) My only concern is that it's really running lean or something and it may cause problems down the road.

 

guys, i jus got my MAF from pinnacle nissan part# 22680-2y001
i am doing the actual replacement now and when i look in the old one.. the sensor is shorter than the new one. at the top of the old one where the plug goes in, it only has 4 pins to connect. the new one shows 5 pins.. did i get the wrong part? i have a 2000 maxima SE. damn what's going on.. and i gotta meet a someone in half an hour!!!!
help help
thanx

 

Not trying to jack this thread, but does anyone know if Dave burnet will sell any dealer part to forum members?...I live in austin and need parts in addition to a MAF...

Thanks,
Kanhai

 

I replaced my MAF about 6 months ago and did not reprogram, no problems since. Does not seem to run lean as it would ping if it did. It's all good!

 

Replaced my MAF about 6 months ago and the old and new part both have 5 pins and my ride is also a 2000 SE so I am not sure what you got!

 

I had power loss at about 5000 rpm. I put in the new MAF and it was as good as new. I would bet that is whats going on with yours.

 

I just replaced my MAF sensor yesterday and got the re-program. OMG - its a like a new car.......glad to have it back!!

Thank you again for all your help!!

 

An old vet bumped a 2 year old thread. Hmm, seems like it belongs in here though.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=520677

 

i remember a long tme ago there was some nissan department guy in texas to call for MAF's and other OEM parts...is he still around? if so, anyoneknow what it is?

 

Yeah, his name was mentioned several times in this very thread along with the Nissan dealership he works at. Since I'm not an ***, I'll tell you his name, but you'll have to dig up his phone number yourself: David Burnette at Southpoint Nissan in Texas.

 

After months and maybe years of reading forums and trying to decide what was wrong with my Max I finally replaced the MAF. Holy cow I wish I hadn't waited so long. It's so nice to have my car back. I hadn't realized how bad it got while I dragged my butt. I highly recommend it if you are unsure. I bought the part off of ebay (double checked part number with dealership) for about 85 all together. I loved the results so much I would easily pay the extra 20 bucks to buy it from a dealer and do it the same day rather than wait for shipping. It was an easy switch. The dang electrical plug was the hardest thing to get undone. I love driving it again. I was so happy I went to the dealer and grabbed my ankles while they reprogrammed my ECU. I can't say if the reprog was worth it, but I figured I'd go all the way as I seemed to have confirmed the problem. Anyway, thanks for all the input!

BTW: I could rev up the car pretty far before the repair, but very very slowly usually. I have a manual but I can see how some of the power cuts I was feeling could be mistaken for a poorly timed shift in an automatic. I did notice a difference in the size of the sensor within the assembly, but I didn’t have any issues with the plug. Good Luck.

 

I am new to this forum after checking it out for a couple of weeks, finally fixed my account to post a reply. I am having problems with my 96 Maxima(all stock), very similar symptoms to the original poster, only when hot, my car is very sluggish, almosts acts as if it is starting in 3rd gear instead of 1st when I step on the gas. Beginning of this week, after about 40minutes driving home in 100 degree heat, my car's rpms were winding and car wasn't moving, I would let off the gas, step on it and was back n forth like this for 3 miles barely making it home. Got home and waited for it to cool down, took it for a spin and the car ran perfect!! Currently after having my tranny checked out by Cottman, they concluded problem may be from cluster(speedometer possibly), my car is now at Nissan and they are telling me I need MAF Sensor, Speedometer, VSS and a bunch other crap! The MAF is $700+ & Speedo is $500 !!! Can anyone please reply with any suggestions, as I asked the Srvce mgr if the tech can change the speedo and just clean the MAF and he said he's never heard of cleaning the MAF before.... is he full of crap or what is going. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

If your car is a 96, then this is the wrong forum.

www.car-part.com for cheap replacements.

 

okay so ive read all the 321651616 different threads about updating to a 2001 maf. now i know you have to take the thermister from the 2k2 and put it in the 2k1, my question i guess would be were does it go? ive read it fits between some prongs and what not and it might or might not need to be soldered so im confused. also can the dealership reprogram the ecu with the am600 program although im running a 2k1 maf?

 

If you read all the threads than it's a matter of having confidence. If you don't which it sounds like, take it to the dealership.

Explain please.

 

what i mean about the reprogram is, if i install a new 2k1 maf w/ the iat swap and it requires a reprogram of the ecu, then would they update it with the 2k3 maf info altough i have a 2k1s maf installed? would that affect anything or would the ecu read the 2k1 maf as a 2k2-2k3 maf?

also its not that im not confident, its the fact that my car is my dd and i dont have a back up in case something goes wrong w/ the car. i just want to make sure i do it right the first time so i dont have to re-repair it again down the road.

 

I was wondering exactly the same! Also, will the dealership physically check what MAF you have (read the code off the MAF housing) or will they take your word for it?

 

Once you have the new MAF installed, then you will know if it needs a reprogram or not. he car will not drive correctly if it does. If it drives well, then you might as well not worry.

 

Sorry to hijack the thread here....I don't have enough posts yet to make my own thread

I'm working on a 2000 Nissan maxima GLE. I'm putting a Weapon-r Intake on and i'm also replacing a mass airflow sensor that has apparently died.

The intake isn't here yet but I tried installing the sensor and it doesn't seem to be working correctly. Granted maybe it is the new "updated" version and just needs to work itself into the ECU a little....

And there lays my question....this thing looks much different then the stock one. The stock had the outside wire, and all 5 terminals on the plug. The new one has no outside wire, and only 4 terminals in the plug, though I did notice the plug on the car only has 4 wires going into it.

Anyone know if this is the new updated MAF sensor? Or might this be the wrong part?

http://img804.imageshack.us/slidesho...hp?id=maf1.jpg

Thanks