My dealer tells me the A/C compressor on my 2K has a bad clutch. They offered to fix it for $990. I clutched my chest, nearly dropped the phone on the floor, and politely declined.

I bought a used compressor/clutch assembly for $150 from a junkyard somewhere back East. Ain't the Internet great? The junkyard proprietor sounded EXACTLY like the click and clack brothers on "Car Tawk".

Anyways, maybe driving around without A/C has cooked my brains but I want to replace it myself. And I'm wondering if I can just replace the clutch-only and avoid losing refrigerant.

Anybody done this? Or have a link to a how-to?

I welcome your thoughtful flaming but please... keep shallow "drive-by" responses to yourself.

 

I will check the shop manual tomorrow and see how difficult it looks....I don't have it handy at the moment, but I'll get back to you....

 

I have a problem with my clutch in my car. It is making a bearing noise and needs to be replaced. I took a quick look at the clutch assembly and it looks like it is held in place by one bolt. I believe you will need an impact to take it off.

 

Thanks MAX2000JP. Just to be sure: is that the A/C clutch you are referring to?

 

Just checked the manual for my 03 A/C compressor. I hope they are they same. There are 4 components: the comp. unit, coil pack, pully assy., and the clutch disc. If the pully assy is shot then the fix should be easy with standart tools along with a snap ring wrench and a bearing puller. If the bearing in the comp. unit is shot then you'll need a new unit... compressor unit that is. If you need some pics and have access to a fax PM me.

 

Yes....My problem is that my clutch and/or pulley is making noise. I believe it's the clutch because when my climate control is on ECON the noise is a lot louder. When I turn on my A/C, the noise quiets. This makes me believe that is the clutch.

 

Take it to a tech. Ill explain why in a sec.

1st of all its only 1hr to R&R the A/C compressor clutch.

Thats the only thing thats easy about it, here comes the part were you think (hopefully) that its not worth getting into this mess for 1hr worth of labor.

You need to evacuate and recharge the A/C...I doubt you got an A/C machine ready to use at will but ill go on anyway...

You need to remove the center bolt to remove the disc & go on to remove the pulley itself, you need a disc holder. Usually a 3prog type that fills in the holes in the clutch disc. The disc holder isnt a tool most ppl have, but once again ill go on. Once you get past this, you need a disc puller, once again a tool that isnt found in the common household.

You'd also need to remove the snap ring with an exernal snap ring puller, most ppl dont have this again.

This isnt something id call a DIY job, mainly due to the requirment of the tools.

 

HitManSE, thanks a million for taking the time to explain the process. It was just the wise advice I was looking for and I think I'll follow it. Much appreciated.

 

Not a problem, glad I saved you a headache

When I see a question worth time to answer, I usually do. Goodluck.

 

Cant you just remove the pulley and clutch as a whole unit? I would assume the whole unit would slide off the shaft. If this is the case, I was planning on getting calling some local junkyards to located a pulley and clutch assembly.

 

Well, I havnt done that exact job on a max for a while now so I can recall 100% the step by step. You know how it is, it just comes back when you work on it, but I wont say its not possible to remove the whole thing as a unit.

The last comp clutch job we had was late last week but it wasnt on a max, one of the techs removed the whole thing pretty much as a unit, we replaced the pulled and the clutch disc. However the feild coil we kept on (it was still good) So we basically just trasnfered a new pulley & clutch onto the current thing and put it back in place.

You can get another one & give DYI a shot. All im saying is its not worth the headache for just 1hr worth of labor (thats if you got a shop you trust). Give it shot though, then you can confirm if this is infact a DYI if the whole thing can just slide off Do post back with progress though

Good Luck.

 

Well, I went and did my own work - against my better judgement I suppose. The pivotal issue was when I read that R134a is not an ozone killer. Here's my work diary:

1. Got a $993 quote from dealer and nearly had a coronary
2. Bought $150 salvaged compressor/clutch assembly on Internet
3. Bought $30 ramps from parts store
4. Bought $8 can of PAG A/C oil from parts store
5. Bought $20 aux drive belt from parts store
6. Bought $30 set of box-end metric ratchets from parts store
7. Vented system by slightly loosening one refrigerent line on compressor using long ratchet extension, backed away from vapor.
8. Tried unsuccessfully to convince neighbor's annoying, yard-crapping cat to investigate hissing noise.
9. Removed plastic shroud covering compressor region.
10. Used ratcheting box end to loosen bolt that is the "axle" of the idler pully.
11. Loosened belt tension adjuster and slipped off belt
12. Removed both refrigerent lines, wiped off, and covered ends with baggies.
13. Removed electrical connection on old compressor unit
14. Removed four bolts mounting old compressor unit. Only one skinned knuckle.
15. Inspected new unit, loosened shipping plugs, poured in 1 OZ of PAG oil in low side
16. Installed new unit, removing "boots" from A/C lines at last moment
17. Installed the new belt and sent tension adjuster for 1/2 inch play, tightened "axle" on idler pulley.
18. Replaced shroud and those %^$&# clips. What is the tool for those?
19. Made sure HVAC system was off so clutch would stay disengaged.
20. Called Jiffy Lube for A/C recharge pricing. They said they charge $50 plus $18/lb R134a
21. Sweet girl on phone said she'd knock off another $10 if I mentioned her name
22. Arrived at Jiffy, techs were wary of burning smell from A/C oil cooking off the exhaust manifold
23. Soothed techs nerves and told them to make sure they added proper amount PAG oil.
24. Paid $80 and drove off with working A/C for the first time in weeks
25. Total cost of parts and service: $320
26. The feeling of glee from saving $700: Priceless

One note:

I have the full set of factory service manuals. There is no reference to a drier module. 3 local dealer parts counters said the liquid receiver is also a drier but the factory manual has zero words concerning any dessicant/drier functionality - or the need to replace it when servicing. The part is bundled with a pressure sensor and costs about $100.

Will report back after I put a few months on this refurb'd A/C system.

 

 

Well... Do post back with an update though

 

I have done a AC compressor clutch without evacutating the system, if you remove the 4 14mm bolts that hold the compressor to the bracket you can get the compressor to hand down low enough. Then I use a puller to remove the clutch assembly etc off the compressor shaft. All the R134a is sealed inside the compressor, and your just working on the outside- best explanation to this is.... doing a UDP. It sits on the outside of the engine, and everything else is sealed inside the engine. I have done atleast 15-30 Maximas like this- all 4th gens. I remember we used to get like 3 hours of labor to do this too, was gravy for us

 

I installed a boneyard A/C compressor today. It was in good shape and didnt make any noise, so I gave it a shot. Removal was straightforward, took my 1/2 hour. I removed my compressor and took a look at the one on the car. The snap ring holding the bearing came apart and was lodged in the clutch. The ball bearings were exposed to the elements and shot. The pulley was acutually pretty hard to turn. I then put the junkyard A/C compressor on and tightened the belts. I started it up and it was quiet like before, I was happy. The happiness ended when I tried to engage the A/C. Nothing happened, not even a drop in rpm's like usually. I did an inspection and all the fuses were in working order. I haven't had time to recharge the system, but that shouldnt have any effect on whether it engages. I will have to look at it tomorrow sometime and put a feeler tool on the clutch/pulley and measure the clearance. It could just be that I need to remove a shim or two. Otherwise I have no clue.

 

Pressure switch around the receiver drier is not seeing any R134A and it won't let the compressor kick on. Charge the system with some R134A with some leak DYE (helps diagnose leaks, if any in the future), and the compressor will kick on.

 

Well, I've been running for one year now and the A/C is still running great. Strike a blow for the FIY'r!!

 

I have a seized bearing on my 2000 max. I've pulled the ac compressor and bypassed the pulley with a 6 rib, 37" belt. summer is here and need to get ac working soon! I see autozone sells the bearing, my question is, how hard is it to pull the bearing and replace it? I'll rent the tools if need be, just want to do it myself, pretty confident I can do it.

 

Do you have a photo of the puller I can use to remove the clutch?

 

You don't need someone recharge it. Start charging it on the low (I think) and then purge the high side. It'll blow the air out.

That redneck charging will get you ice cold air in 100F without recirc. That's good enough for me

 

I was at this point. The clutch would not engage. It was getting 12v power.
I had the can refrigerant hooked up to the low pressure line and the can gauge showed it was maxed out at ~100psi. I let some out and got it withing proper range (45-55 psi.) The clutch still didn't engage. At this point I thought something else must be wrong besides refrigerant. So I stopped going that route. Should I have just put it in at that point to fix my issue?

 

Make sure both radiator fans are coming on with the AC.

 

They are.