Well I installed my Berk w/ APEXI, and cleaned my Throttle Body.


The intake sounds great But I have no power now.
If I slowly accelerate it will shift through all gears. ( automatic ). But If I stomp on it from a dead stop She chokes out @ 3500 rpm's. If I am rolling at low speeds and get on it it's like I'm in mud.
I read some where that I have to leave the negative off the batt. overnight so I'm gonna try that.

Do you have any suggestions.
Thanks for all your help. Mike

 

Make sure you reconnected the MAF sensor.

 

I was super carefull with it. And yes I plugged it back in.
Also attached to my MAF harness is a small black round thing with a house on it and a light blue plug connector.
All are attached and in good visable condition.

 

"Also attached to my MAF harness is a small black round thing with a house on it and a light blue plug connector."

Elaborate on this please! The MAF just plugs in and I don't recal anything being round, but very oval and it's black.

 

did you turn it so the air flow is going into the meter instead of actually facing the throttle body?

 

If you have a 2000 then most likely (probably 100%) you've blown your MAF. I did when I installed my Berk w/Apexi and I got a new one installed for under $150 and it's a lot stronger than the first.

They really should do something about the 2000 MAF.

 

About 2 inches from th MAF sensor plug the caple splits. and2 wire go to a black sensor thing. It looks like a bottle cap sort of. but a little bigger. it is connected to the cable by a blue plug. It has a smmal dia. hose attached too it runs down by the 2 hoses that where routed by th stock box.

I have a 2000 w/ Cali- Emmisions.

 

Post a pic, it would help out.

 

?
If your asking me if I have the MAF tube facing the right way. I think it can only go one way. one end has a flange on it and it goes to the filter.

 

How.
All the other news groups I read have an attach file thing.
I have pics though.

 

Go to Cardomain.com and startup a page, it's the easiest way.

You know you have your MAF attached correctly if the arrow on it is pointing toward the TB and the screen is infront of the sensor, so it is screening the air prior to the sensor.

 

Another one bites the dust. <insert top gun theme here>

Might sound cruel, but well, nothing new. Keep your stock airbox so you don't blow sensors or just replace them. They did make an improved version.

 

Isn't the MAF covered by the emissions warranty? Put your stock airbox back in and go get a new one from the dealership....

I have yet to drive my car... disconnected the battery and letting it sit for 24 hours.... I'll let ya know how it goes when I get the chance and also whether I blow mine too or not.... all the best....

 

dows anyone know the code for the updated MAF for the 2k-2k1's?

 

deffinetly sounds like a blown MAF
if your car doesnt go past 3500 rpm's, when MAF blows, the car goes into limp mode.. basically still allowing you to drive. but u cant punch it no more..
btw, did u get a SES light? go to autozone if u can .. see if they can pull any codes from the ECU, that might help.

 

Yeah, it is the sensor. I disconnected my entire intake and cleaned it with a carborator cleaner while gasing, my rpms wouldent go higher than 3.5k on a cali emission maxima gxe.

The sensor gets blown too easy.

Gene

 

The other device you're referrign to is a swirl control vacum check switch, its a cali ony thing. Checks to see if swirl control is working.

 

I'm surprised no one has said this yet. Try unplugging the MAF sensor. The car will run a bit rough, but the car should perform alot better. If this is the case, it is the MAF.

 

if you blown your MAF, SES goes on?

 

Part Number 22680-2Y001

 

Honestly, after reading all this I wonder if it is worth putting one on my car. I hear nothing but problems, why I have not done it yet, maybe its me, dunno.

 

Thanks for the info on the swirl control.

I went down to my Nissan dealer and picked up a MAF. It was $90.00 and it's the whole thing hosing and all.

....Enclosed was a letter stating...
"This unit requires special ECM reprograming of the vehicle.
Refer to TSB NTB01-036/ITB01-029 for the special ECM ID code that must be entered in the ASIST ECM Data screen to download the correct data.
This data is not available through the regular MY/Model lookup."

Should I take it in for programing?
Should I put the stock intake and new MAF on and than bring it in?
Should I put the new one on w/ the Berk and bring it in since I have 62K on my car and am out of warraty anyway?

I have not gotten the SES light yet
What is the code for it though so if I call nissan in Monday I can say I got it over the weekend and picked up the part.

Thanks, Mike

 

Thats a good question and I have asked it myself, but have never gotten a clear answer. I, and others, have installed the "updated" MAF ourselves and have not had the ECU reprogramed/updated. I installed a new MAF 6 months ago without updating the ECU when I installed my Berk. So far,nothing unusual has happened.

We need to find out what the reprogramming of the ECU does and why it is needed. Does anyone know? All I can tell you is that I did not update my ECU and everything seems normal.

 

how you know that you have to replace the MAF?

 

So if I am still having the problem after a 24 battery disconnect. I can disconnect the MAF plug and while the engine will run rough it will tach over 3500?
If this is true I'll check it out when it stops raining here in NJ.
If it is the MAF is it safe ot install and drive for a few days prior to ECU flash?

 

i installed the updated maf without software with no issues. this was about 9 months ago. old maf never had any issues either and that was with about 3 different k&n filters, some were reoiled, the maf was dropped, it was cleaned with electrical parts cleaner and still had perfect a/f when i dynoed. its just the luck of the draw but my old maf was still good when i took it off but i figured my time was coming since all it had been through.

 

Remember your "old" MAF is a 2001. The 2000 are much weaker than the updated ones. At least I can say that from my personal experience.

 

wrong. early build 2k1s have the same part number as the 2ks do. lucky for me though, i had the updated coils.

 

Well then your suggestion of me being "wrong" only applies part of the time. If you have a late build 2001 then you have the updated, right? I know that my new one is updated. Regardless, if you have the week one and you plan on doing any mods, especially intake, then you should consider getting the upgrade and/or expecting your MAF to blow.

 

yeah it applies to part of the time. by your verbage, i can tell you did not know that before i said. you assumed 2k1s had a different maf simply because of the year. i do agree that it would be a good idea to have the updated one but mine had perfect a/f even after the events. you may consider the 2ks & early build 2k1s mafs to be weak, the 2k2s are far more prone to fail.

 

Make sure the flow is the right way.....

 

Well It's Sunday and Ivan has blown through. The sun is shining and all is well in my little MAX world. I put my new MAF on and it's a new car again. It seems like my low end throttle response is back to what it was like a while ago. I was having some cold start acceleertaion problems for about a month. Thats gone too.

Now all I want to know is what will the ECU flash do , how much is it, and is it worht it.

Thanks for everyones help. Mike

 

The 2k2s are a different animal alltogether, right? Because the have another sensor piece?

 

yes, they have the air temp sensor built into the maf unlike the 2k-2k1s which have the seperate sensor which comes in the scoop.

 

anybody?

I have 38.700 miles on my car and i havent change the MAF, if my MAF goes bad my SES will be on?

 

It might throw a code but your SES might not go on. I don't know about your car, but with mine the power loss was significant. It would drive fine to around 3500 RPM then the power would drop and I would fall out of my seat as if I had just taken my foot the gas and out of gear. When I took it to the dealer they said the MAF meter was sending wrong signals to an O2 sensor making the car run lean.

The main symptom is loss of high RPM power.

 

where can i get a new MAF?