I held the cams back and it gave me enough room to get to the screw. You can remove the whole VIAS unit using this method?

 

VTEC? Come on guys, the VIAS is just modifying the length of the intake air is traveling through. VTEC changes to more agressive cam lobes with more lift/overlap. No comparison and don't expect a working vs. non working VIAS to respond like "VTEC".

Unless the cup is not rotating AT ALL, ie the rod is snapped or the base of the cup is worn through, you won't feel any difference because there is no difference. A bit of wobble won't allow the power rod to rotate and be inbetween ON/OFF or something, so again, no difference. Even MaxGator and Larrio that had a VERIFIED broken power rod that wasn't turning, couldn't tell a top-end difference once fixed. Only the dyno or repeat tests against another MAX with working VIAS showed it was broken, then fixed. Seat of the pants will NOT work.

I believe this is a good idea to prevent the cup/L-rod from breaking eventually, however it seems like a lot of people are expecting too much from just a "wiggle of the base cup".

 

Also, even *IF* the power rod was inbetween or slightly cracked open, air follows the path of least resistance and I doubt that path would be from the secondary chamber UNTIL wide open with dynamic pulses from the other cylinders helping pull the intake air in. I could be wrong, but I just don't see that as happening here.

 

I had the exact same problem as MaxGator and had my VIAS fixed under warranty a few years back. I could tell a difference slightly in power and a big difference in the tone of my intake. My JWTs pitch would change when the VIAS changed over. Thats how I know my VIAS is broken once again.

 

With an intake after you've heard the difference before/after a fix would be more noticeable.

I've disconnected my VIAS and with the stock air box, the tone does change, however in everyday driving, highly doubt I could tell.

 

I'd love to back my gains up with a dyno, but so far, seat of the pants has been more than sufficient. I first disabled the VIAS and reset the power valve to its closed position (which was slightly off from where I found it), and immediately noticed it ran much better in low-end/midrange RPMs. After implementing this fix, I feel those same gains except they carry all the way to the redline. Before, I believe the VIAS was working, but it really didn't feel as torquey as it does now. All I have to go by is my imprecise Auterra palm-based Dyno-Scan software, and sometime I should do another 3rd gear run at nighttime when the cops aren't watching to compare...

Granted, when I looked at it, the "wiggle" was very significant. Certainly much more than the last time I opened it up this past spring.

 

I still don't notice a difference in sound with or without it enabled, and I have the Place Racing CAI installed. But I can't mistake the distinct rocket-like launch from ~4K RPM all the way to redline in 1st gear at full or near-full throttle

 

Sound of a Place Racing CAI =

One thing that I will tell you guys is that my intake sounds DRAMATICLY different with the power valve taken out. Before, when it was broke and wouldn't open up at 5k rpms, I couldn't even hear my PR CAI at all over my cattman catback. Now, it really snarls all the way to redline and is screaming by the time it gets there. I think that it's the best sounding intake I've ever heard, although i'm a little biased...

 

lol, great to know I bought the best

I hear ya on the snarl. Actually this reminds me of something else-
After fixing the VIAS, it seemed like my intake was a little louder. I assume the extra airflow at low/midrange with the power valve fully closed is responsible. Likewise, it doesn't change much after 5000...

But with the power valve removed, I would predict that airflow would suck at the low-end (thus reducing noise), and you'd hear the snarl build up at >5000 in comparison since volumetric efficiency is much better >5000 with the PV removed.

 

i wish i had a PR intake now instead of my ghetto black k&N. The sound though from the working VIAS is awesome.

 

It's never too late...

 

unless my bank account says so...

(need rsb instead)

 

Well, here's the situation. My VIAS was indeed not functioning all its full potential. I found the metal cup thingy loose, but not completely damaged to the point where I could spin it round and round. Following the directions posted in this thread, I fixed my VIAS, but not without its moments. Note to any other people who wants to do this fix, make sure you follow the directions on how to remove the 4 screws properly. I stripped 1 out of the 4 screws because I didn't make sure the flat head was complete on the screw before I press the button on my drill. Thus, I used a vise clamp to grap onto the screw's head and turned it out. Lesson is, if you do use a drill like I did, make sure the drill has plenty of torque, and press the flat head bit into the slot of the screw head firmly before pressing the drill trigger. Anyways, like the eariler posts, replace those screws with some good bolts. I found some at the Home Depot; 4 screws, 4 flat washer, and 4 locking washers, all for $1.24.

Results afterwards were impressive. I regained some low end torque and some high end horsepower. From the 5200rpm range to redline, the car picks up really fast unlike before. With my Berk midpipe/Stillen intake hybrid and Greddy Evo cat-back, I do notice a sweet sounding resonance once the 5200rpm comes all the way to redline. I love it!!! Well, thank you to those whose posted and best wishes to any other people who are going to fix their VIAS next.

steve...

 

Yep, we were in the same boat. Unmistakable difference in lowend torque and highend horsepower...

 

As I said in one on my prior posts in this thread, DO NOT use a flat head screwdriver, you must use a #3 phillips ONLY!

 

I did it two nights ago and mines was totally fuxed but, I have one problem after i was done my SES light came on I had it checked out and it was p0505 which is the idle air control and im not sure if I moved something and didnt put it back correctly or was something just on its way out of business any how. But i feel the difference. Bt my car has been idling a lil ruff for the past few months, you know the type of idle u could feel in the steering wheel off and on.

 

yeah if you removed the throttle body maybe you bumped something... or maybe the IAC was about to die anyway? weird... I'd inspect it and wiggle/tighten down any wiring harnesses around the throttle body...

 

i have to replace my starter any how im gonna play with it then

 

i dont think my post are going up

 

It's also possible that the seal on the VIAS wasn't completely lined up in it's groove when you installed it, causing an air leak.

 

This is exactly why I chopped off part of the end of the VIAS rod and cut the spring short. First time I installed it, it was very difficult to tighten it down while maintaining a proper seal. I didn't notice any vacuum leaks, but I did crank those screws down tight. Rather than leave it like that, I cut the VIAS rod and spring short to provide less tension and a little more breathing room while reinstalling the VIAS box. I'm pretty sure it was a good idea.

 

IT'S FINALLY FIXED!!!!! After many trials and tribulations I've finally fixed my VIAS. It started months ago when I figured out that it was broken. With the help of SR20DEN, I removed the power rod. Didn't think about fixing it at the time. I loved the horsepower but hated losing 20lb/ft of torque. So after watching this thread, SR20DEN and myself tried the fix. Took it to his shop and let him work on it. We used the jb kwik, and in hindsight we did't wait long enough for it to cure. After driving it, I was amazed at the torque that I regained; I forgot what torque beasts these little V6's can be. I really wasn't paying attention to the top end, assuming that if I had the torque back that the fix was good. Took it to the dyno immediatly after ($60) only to find out that it wasn't fixed. Really good torque #'s, lousy HP #'s. Sooo, went home and took it apart and tried the fix myself. Again using the kwik stuff. This time I let it cure for about 4 hours before reinstallment. Took it out for a spin and it worked, but for only about 5 runs past 5Krpms. By this time I was frustrated and tired of dealing with this crap. Thought about saving up the $400 for a new intake manifold. But this weekend I had an idea and i went and bought a dremel set and got the original JB weld instead of the kwik stuff. Took everything apart, dremeled away all of the previously used jb kwik and then applied the original jb to the cup and the actuator. I let it dry overnight and reinstalled everything this morning. crossed my fingers and went for a test drive... success! Moral of the story, if your VIAS is ripped to shreds like mine was, jb kwik might not do the job. Anyway, thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. It's been very helpfull. Man it's great to have the best of both worlds again.

 

lol sounds like everyone else had a hell of a time fixing it than i did lol. Dyno numbers please =D

 

Yeah, I don't have any dynos to back mine up unfortunately... but I must say that after using JB Kwik, I did cut off part of the end of the VIAS rod (and cut the spring short) so it'd fit less tight. Maybe that has something to do with it?

The reason I did this is that when I reassembled the VIAS box after using JB Kwik, I noticed that **** was on there WAY too tight. I had to really crank down the screws to get it on tight. Knowing that the JB Kwik in the bottom likely filled in some of the clearance required by the stock setup, I resolved it by cutting the VIAS rod off up to (and including) the O-ring that goes inside the cup. The spring I cut ~40% off using some wire cutters. It fit much better, and I didn't have to crank down the damn bolts to ensure the box has proper vacuum sealing. The cup still moved 100% true to the rod after I removed it from letting it sit overnight tightened hard against the full-length valve end/spring. I had actually installed it after 2 hours of curing, and installed it into that tight setup.
I should pull it out and make sure it still works OK several weeks later, now that I think about it...

 

the dyno #'s before I fixed it WITHOUT the power rod in 203hp & 185 torque. dyno #'s before I fixed it WITH the power rod installed: 178 hp & 198 torque. #'s now: ????. I'm pretty much spent out on this right now. I probably won't dyno again for a while, gotta save for the girlfriend's Christmas present. I suspect that the #'s would be around 200-208 hp and 195-205 torque. I gave the high end a little boost because I have since done some work to the car (coils, plugs, timing advance, removed throttle body restrictor plate and cleaned dirty air filter) since my last dyno run. But the hp # might not be as high. Even with a working valve, it still blocks some airflow.

 

Yeah, Spirillis, Matt cut off a little of the valve on mine as well. My setup was completly shredded, that was the problem. It had been broken for so long that the cup had a huge hole in it from repeated +5k rpm runs. The metal rod that was suppost to connect to it was worn down to a little nub, not much to work with-too little contact area for the kwick stuff to hold on too. I suspect that I may have to do additional work to it down the road, but I'm hoping that it's totally fixed for good.

 

I gotcha. Yeah, guess it's best to catch and fix this as early as possible...

 

After following this thread, I finally checked mine and it was fine, now I just need to find a way to get my rev limiter above 7K.

 

Mine had been dead for ~40k miles. So it was very eaten away when I got to it. I used the original JB Weld (not even very much). More then 2 weeks and 50+ 5k-up pulls (what can I say, I missed the power), and it still works great.

 

hehe, yeah. Now that I think about it, I bought the car with about 40k miles and it's never been as fast as it is now (60k miles now). I'm really happy that I didn't have to pay $400 for a new manifold, and I would have done that for twenty + horsepower. Think about paying $825 for cattman headers for about the same amount of power, although that power is throughout the entire rev range.

Didn't notice until now that you're in Greensboro Mike. When us Charlotte guys get off our keisters and plan a meet you outta come down.

 

Absolutely. Trip to rockingham dragway?

 

Sounds good to me. Never been there myself, but I'm long overdue. I'll try & talk to some of the guys here and see what we can work up.

 

Quick Question... did the VIAS check... actuator fine...manual thumb movement resulted no idle change but felt LOT's of pressure, seems to be fine as far as that... but would bucking at strange R'sPM and 1st,2nd, and sometime's 3rd result iin a loss from vias??

hasn't happened recently but possibly only when it's cold.

any help appreciated.

Thanks

 

a visual check wouldn't work. The problem is internal with the power valve not outside with the actuator

 

Is this also a potential problem with 2K2+'s? The manifold is metal instead of plastic, so could this mean other parts are also sturdier (including the "cup" materials)?

 

that's what i was planning to do, i wanted to use a v-tech controller for that namely the v-afc

 

I'm actually toying with a BASIC Stamp PIC controller I bought at RadioShack... I think this could be used as an RPM switch, one that's programmable too. The hardware would be approaching $100 altogether though, if I were to produce it in a boxed setup. But it'd be programmable. (e.g. have a togglebutton that makes it "set" the switchover RPM to whatever the current RPM is)

These are programmable using a dialect of BASIC, and it has special commands for reading signal pulse-widths 'n stuff. I'd imagine you could use that to read the pulse-width of the RPM signal going to the tachometer and compute RPM based on that. Then it could switch a relay using one of its I/O pins and that'd activate the VIAS.

 

that's another way too, but i wanted to get an air fuel control either way and i thought well might as well get the v-afc or take my brother's v-afc, it might be more cost efficient in my case. but definately keep us posted with your methods, because i have no clue as to when i'll be starting mine.

 

That's cool. An RPM switch should be a fairly simple application of the BASIC Stamp PIC controller, but I have other wild ideas brewing in my head too. If I could find a way to mount a servo onto the strut towers in the front and rear, securely without them bumping anything, I could conceivably create an automated strut damper adjustment system which would adjust the Tokico Illuminas based on vehicle speed (assuming I can rig some electronics to allow it to detect pulse width of the Vehicle Speed Sensor). I'd think of something like 1f/2r at 0-20MPH, then 2f/3r at 20-40MPH, 3f/4r at 40-60, and 4f/5r at 60+.
But that may never happen because I wouldn't have the patience to follow through with trying out different ways/components for mounting a servomotor in such a way that you could adjust the struts electronically.

 

maybe you can modify the TEIN EDFC solenoids, just change the hex key in there that turns the struts if it's different.