took mine apart last night, to make sure it was not broken. and it looks as good as new. that's on a Max with 100k miles. I put in some JBWeld while I was in there, but it was tight with no signs of failure. all this work and two stripped screws for nothing.

 

So let's say I have a 2K automatic and don't find myself over 5K rpms very often. This fix has no impact below 5K right? Thanks.

 

Correct, excluding the small possibility that the VIAS has failed, and the valve assembly is stuck in the "high-rpm" position, or in a part-way position. This would significantly reduce power in the sub 5k range.

However its unlikely.

 

Hey, I was wondering if you got the chance to measure the exact position of the cup on the shaft? Mine is so loose that I can't tell exact position and I think if I twist it few more degrees to eaither side, while JB'ing it, it wouldn't be good.

Thanks

 

Anyone know the angle of the cup in the right position.????

 

All I can suggest is to look at the pictures I took, and also look at the orientation of the power rod (if possible)

 

I'm resurrecting this thread because (1) it is immensely helpful, and (2) it's somewhat obscure relative to how important it can be. I just happened to stumble across it while I was looking for something else. Of course you could find it if you searched, but it seems like something that should be displayed for all to learn about. Why isn't this sticky'd yet?

Short version of the rest of this thread, for the newbs like me out there: On the 3.0 5th gens, there is a weak point in your variable intake. If it is broken, you lose about 30hp above 5000 rpms. You can fix it with JB weld. Check the rest of this thread and mhadford's write up.

My car probably hasn't seen that many redline runs in it's life, therefore the "cup" pictured below is still attached (but it is loose). On some, the cup is completely unattached.

Because the cup is still attached, THIS IS THE PROPER CUP POSITION.

 

not going to condone this because of the usefulness this will serve for future newbies.

 

Thankyou SO much for posting that, ive spent so many hours looking for that in the past month or so ive been playing with my VIAS.

BTW for those that fixed theirs w/ JB weld you might wanna check it, my cup is completley rounded out now

 

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=21
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/763858/5

 

What do you mean by rounded out?

 

yea what Do u mean by roudned out? it was a pain in the @$$ taking that thing off

 

the lower portion of my cup that used to attach to the actuator rod

 

i better pull mine apart n see if its still attached

how reliable is this JB weld glue?

 

So the cup was freely rotating around the rod again? Did the JB weld crack or what?

Some people in this thread found that the JB Quik was not strong enough, and ended up cracking. The good old fashion JB weld is stronger, but takes 24 hours to cure.

 

I did this repair with the regular JB Weld at around 90,000 miles. Currently at 217,000 miles and it is still holding (hundreds of times reving past the vias activation point). Just make sure to use the regular JB Weld, use just a dab, orient the cup properly, and let it set for 24 hours. It should outlast the rest of the car.

 

I am subscribing because it took me forever to find this!

 

Thanks guys, i suspected something was wrong when it would take a wihle to rev up to redline....great bottom end but the top was lacking, found out this VIAS problem and took it apart today...sure enough the cup was totally detached. did the JB weld, put it back together and i would rev the car past 5K and see the actuator pull it back but it wasnt springing back to original position

too much pressure on the cup was causing too much friction....took it apart and ground down the rod, assembled it back and now she works like a charm, much more liniar power all the way to redline....no more dying off, i find myself bouncing off the limiter now cuz i cant catch it fast enough in first....

great help guys!!

 

can someone post the proper cut orientation? the pic above isn't working. my cup was loose, but still attached - though the groove was worn enough that the cup was definitely not oriented perfectly. The rod's notch seemed to be facing directly forwards (i.e. to the front of the car), so I am wondering if that was the correct position?

 

 

will be doing this tomorrow hopefully on my 140k driven 00 gxe

 

my 2000 SE at 104k miles seems to be losing power when going uphill. Could this be the problem?

 

Could be, if you are feeling the power drop off around 5,000 rpm. It's worth a look.

 

I recently acquired a 2000 Maxima. Since I don't know how well the previous owner maintained the engine, I've been looking at ways to fix her up. I decided to look at the VIAS (or VAIS?) and found my cup was still attached but loose. I could rotate it between say 3 and 4 o'clock. I tried searching the forums and google but cannot find any working pictures of the proper/standard positioning. I even tried a dealership service center and they couldn't find the part in their exploded views.

Does anyone have a working stock picture of the cup orientation?

Does it really matter if it's off by 5-10 degrees? The part that the cup rotates seems to be smaller than the indentation so there would be some play in the movement in the intake manifold.

I set mine to about "3:30". Would I have been better off setting it at a full 4:00 or 3:00 position?

From another thread...
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...i-parts-3.html

 

This is going to sound REALLY stupid. I did the VIAS actuator repair today. Labeled all the vacuum hoses except for the 1 that goes on the T connector with 2 hoses at the front of the unit above the electrical connectors. There's a loose hose coming from the right side top front of the solenoid unit that I think might have come off the T connector. The engine is a 2001 VQ30DE-K, Need Advice PLEASE!

 

I blew up my old motor and just replaced it with a rebuilt. I found that my vias cup was royally damaged. The opening for the metal rod had become a jagged round hole, despite the JB weld. Cleaned it up and tried to MIG weld the cup to the rod, but it didn't work - the cup metal is too thin. Going to weld a steel washer to the cup, then to the rod. I'll let you know how it goes....

 

First off, thanks to the MAXIMA.ORG members for providing this valuable info. I just completed the VQ30DE-K "JB Weld VIAS Fix" on my 2001 SE 4AT. The results were satisfying to say the least. By "Butt Dyno" it seems to have improved torque (pulling power) overall and the engine pulls smoothly from standstill to a bit less than (an indicated) 125MPH at 6000RPM with "OD Off". There looks like a slight hesitation on the Tach at roughly 4500RPM, but the engine keeps building RPM's with no loss of high speed acceleration. The low end on takeoff now has authority (important with an AT). I can spin my (225-50VR-17) tires from a dead stop with about 2/3 throttle and "Bark" them on a WOT 1<=>2 upshift/downshift. My VIAS wasn't totally broken, but had roughly 15-20deg. play in the cup. From the noticeable difference in drive-ability, the power valve obviously wasn't opening/closing totally.

Anyone with a VQ30DE-K and/or 00VI manifold needs to check out this fix!

BTW; My panic on the VIAS Actuator vacuum lines was premature, once everything was back on they practically fell into place.

 

FYI; I noticed a decent improvement in mileage since the "VIAS Fix". Got roughly 80 more miles on a tank of fuel (E10) since the repair. Not earth-shattering, but an improvement none the less.

 

Yet another satisfied customer.

 

ABSOLUTELY!!! Thanx again to the .org for the info.

 

SSIM + supporting mods + 7100 > VIAS

 

Bump for such an informative thread! I will be doing my JB Weld fix on my car here in the near future.

 

This is a very infomative thread. i didn't however find the orientation that the power valve should be in when JBing the cup back to the rod. i found out mine is totally seperated from the actuation rod and have no idea where the power valve should be setup. Oh and we can't just order the vias actuator assembly from the dealer seperatly? we have to buy the whole manifold?

 

Il be looking at my VIAS as well. I have a feeling its broken as i do get that "bog" feeling when i hit 5K+ RPMs when i merge on the highway.

 

I think there's a good orientation photo in post #186. The rod in the intake should if (I remember correctly) have the key pointing roughly toward the front of the car. As far as the other questions I don't know for sure.

 

Does anyone have any pictures of the proper cup position? I'm pretty sure my VIAS needs to be fixed. Thanks.

 

I think there's a good orientation photo in post #186. The rod in the intake should if (I remember correctly) have the key pointing roughly toward the front of the car. SEE POST #235

 

I did not get to fixing my VIAS on Friday, but will on Tuesday. Question is, should i put back the spring while the JB is still tacky and sink it into the JB, or wait til its dry to put the spring back?

Some say if i go for option 2, the spring wont have enough clearance...
Thanks.

 

I didn't have ANY problem with the spring. It all depends on how much JB Weld you put in the bottom of the cup. If you follow the instructions and use ONLY enough to slightly cover the rod end you should be fine. I took the extra step of coil binding the spring in a vise for the entire time, including 24hr JB Weld cure to shorten it up nicely.

 

So one of the screws is a PITA, removed all three with little effort but the last one all the way on the bottom is being a pain and Ive already slightly stripped it enough for my screwdriver to skip. I might be able to get it out with a thicker screwdriver. Going to hold off from taking it off and get a thicker one.

Edit:
Got a thicker screwdriver, well i applied insane force and the screw wont budge, stripped it further... Any other suggestions? Pliers will not really fit in there.
Getting slightly upset about no 30 ponies for me.

Further story, came to sears this mourning to pick up the said thicker screwdriver, get it, attempt to start the car. Starter cranks and just loses it. Try again, cranks very poorly. Try last time, smell something melting like.

Anyway, walked like 3 miles home, grabbed the other car, got the starter from autozone, picked up my mom to take my other car back home when i came back to sears. Replaced there in the parking lot. Car starts like champ now.

Pretty cool day.