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Installation Instructions / How-To's / FAQ's / Product Reviews

5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Installation Instructions / How-To's / FAQ's / Product Reviews

Old 04-11-2001, 07:15 PM
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Installation Instructions / How-To's / FAQ's / Product Reviews

How-To/Install Instructions (1st post), FAQ's (2nd post), and Product Reviews (3rd post)

PM additional suggestions to Irish44j, Puppetmaster, or any other moderator

If you find a "dead" link and have a updated link, please post it here and we will add it: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...one-pitch.html

How-To's and Installation Instructions (alphabetical)
green bullet in table of contents indicates that a link has been recently updated and is "good"

- 3M Clear Bra Install (housecor)
- 2002-2003 M/T Shift Console Install For 2000-2001
- 350Z Dead Pedal Install Without Screwing Into The Floorboard
- Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Procedure For 2002-2003
- Addco RSB Install (Audtatious)
- AE Automatic Shift **** Install For 2000
- [/color]Advance Engine Timing - see "Timing Advance"
- AE M/T Pedals Install For 2000-2001
- AE Headlights DIY How-To Make Them
- Air Intake Manifold Removal For 2002-2003
- Airbag Light Reset
- Alternator replacement
- A-Pillar Removal (Foozed)
- A-Pillar Tweeter Replacement (Foozed)
- Auto Climate Control Intake Sensor
- Auto-Dimming Mirror Install
- Automatic Transmission Flush
- Battery Relocation
- Black-Out Chrome Window Trim
- Bleeding Brakes (housecor)
- Blow-by catch can install
Bose Radio Removal (Additional Comments)
- Bose Speaker Cut Out Fix for 2002-2003 (alternate)
- Bose Speaker Cut Out Fix for 2002-2003 (credit: Housecor)
- Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement
- Brake Pad and Rotor Selection and Replacement (Housecor)
Cali-Spec to Fed-Spec Exhaust Manifold Conversion (Desert Pearl)
- Chrome Gauge Bezel Install
- Clear LED Brake Light On Spoiler Install (credit: PoLo)
- Clear Side Marker Install (housecor)
Clear Spoiler Light Disassembly And Painting The Circuit Board
- Climate Control Swap to LED Lighting (credit: Metal Maxima)
Corner Light Re-Wire (Russ2kSE)
- Custom Clear Blinker For HIDs For 2002-2003 (Housecor)
- CV Axle Replacement How-to (credit: mtrai760)
Delay Headlamps Re-Wire For 2000-2001
Differential Bearings Replacement
DIY Ooglie Front Clear Markers (Y2KevSE)
- Dynamatting (Otter'sMax)
- ECU Removal
ECU Reset Procedure For 2002-2003
Engine Comprssion Testing
Exporting OBD-II Logs Into Excel for Graphing
Fatmat Vs. Dynamat
Flush AT Transmission Fluid For 2000-2001
Flush Mounting An Aftermarket Head Unit/Deck/Radio
Fog Light Bulb Install (00-01 and 02-03)
- Fog Light Bulb Replacement For 2002-2003
- Fog Light Re-Wire - Includes Pictures 02-03
- Fog Light Re-Wire 00-01
- Fog Light Removal and Bulb Replacement
- Frankencar Catback Install (credit: Irish44j)
- Front Driver/Front Passenger Window Switch LED Install
- Front Strut Tower Brace Visual Install Instructions
- Front Sway Bar Bushings (Energy Suspension) Install
Front Wheel Studs Install
FSTB Install Guide
Fuel Filter Change (00-01)
- Fuel Filter Change (02-03)
Ghetto Air Box Using A Coat Hanger
- H&R Wheel Spacers Install
Hardwiring your Radar Detector Instructions (Russ2kSE)
- Headlight Aiming
Heated Side View Mirrors Install
- HID Alarm Wiring Fix For 2002-2003
- HID Headlamp (02-03 in 00-01) Install (BigDogJonx)
HID Fog Light Conversion For 2000-2001
- HOMELINK programming How-To
How To Tell If You're Having VIAS Problems (Variable Intake)
Hyperground Kit - How to make one
Hyperground DIY (credit: Irish44j)
Idle Air Volume Learning Procedure For 2000-2001
Idle Air Volume Learning Procedure For 2002-2003
- Ignition Coils - How to test them to see which one is bad
Ignition Coil & Spark Plug Replacement (VQ30DE-K)
Ignition Coil & Spark Plug Replacement (VQ35DE)
Ignition Light Color Change
Immobilizer System (NVIS) Reset For 2000-2001
- Incabin Air Micro Filter Replacement
- Infinity BassLink/LC Remote Install - Includes RF 8-Gauge Wiring And On/Off Toggle Switch
Info on tranny cooler install
- Injen Install For 2002-2003
- Intake - How to make a custom Place Racing-style CAI
Intake - INJEN Install
Intake -JWT PopCharger Install
Instrument Cluster Replacement
JIC FLT A2 Coilover Install
Koni Install
"Lexus" Yellow Fog Light Retrofit/Install (credit: Irish44j)
- Mach 1 "Irish Front Lip" Install (credit: Irish44j)
- MAF upgrade for 02-03 to 00-01 MAF
- MAF Cleaning For Under $10 How-To
Maxspeed Spring Install
- Mesh Grill DIY With Home Depot Materials (credit: Irish44j)
Mesh Grill Install In Air Dam
Molded Dash Kit Installation
- MOMO E-Brake Install Guide (credit: [maxi-overdose])
MT-90 Manual Transmission Change
OEM Stereo FM Modulator Install
OEM Stereo Removal and/or Install FM Modulator to OEM Stereo!!!
Oil Catch Can Installation
- OSCAI (Ooglie Stock Cold Air Intake)
O2 Simulator Installation - BlackBIRDVQ
O2 Simulator Installation - Puppetmaster
- Parking Brake Adjustment How-To
PCV Replacement
Place Racing CAI Install (Pioneer)
Power Steering Pump Belt Replacement
Pro-Fit VSM Bracket Install
Punching-Out The Catalytic Convertor
Quaife Install
Radiator Fan Low/High Manual Fan Switch For 2002-2003
- Rear Diffuser - How to Make a Custom One (credit: PulsarGTS)
Rear Light Install For 2002-2003
Rear Parcel Shelf Rattling Fix (Mdeal)
Rear Sway Bar Install (Paul2KGXE)
Rear Sway Bar Install
- Rear trailing arm install
- Rear Window Shade from an I30/35 into a Maxima How-To (Credit: s1mply v)
- Redline Goods Leather Shift/ebrake boot install (credit: Irish44j)
Remove Condensation From Clear Side Markers
- Remove dealer stickers and pinstripes (housecor)
Replacing Auto Climate Control Bulbs
Replacing Spark Plugs
Reverse Indiglow Gauges Install For 2002-2003
Roof Rack Install How-To (credit: StillenMax80x20)
Rotor And Brake Pad Install Notes
S-AFC II Install For 2002-2003
Service Engine Soon/Malfunction Indicator Lamp/Check Engine Light Reset Procedure For 2002-2003
Shift Light Install
- Side Marker Re-Wire (Mingo)
- Sidemarker light removal
SMC STS Install Without Removing The Catalytic Convertor For 2000-2001
Sound Deadening Rear Parcel Shelf
- Spark Plug Change For 2002-2003
Spark Plug Recommendations
- Spring And Strut Install (Housecor)
SRS Airbag Light Reset Trick For 2000-2003 (studman)
Starter Removal, Re-Grease, And Re-Installation
Stealth Running Lamps
Stereo Replacement (Punkdork)
Stillen Aero Kit Install
Stillen RSB For 2001-2003 (Additional Comments)
Stock Automatic Transmission Pedals Replacement With AE Pedals
Street Scene Equipment Speed Grille Install
Street Scenes Main Grille Install Over Oem Grille
- Sunroof Wind Noise - How to Fix (housecor)
Taillight Tinting, Smoking, Or Painting
Throttle Position Learning Procedure For 2002-2003
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning Procedure For 2002-2003
- Timing Advance (Using Consult-II) For 2000-2001
- Transmission Fluid Drain and Refill/Swap (housecor)
Umnitza DDE Angel Eyes Re-Wiring As Defeatable Daytime Running Lights
- Umnitza DDE Lightning Angel Eyes Install (Housecor)
Underdrive Pulley (Additional Comments)
- Underdrive Pulley Install (UR)
Urethane Motor Mount Replacement For 2002-2003
Valentine1 Radar Detector Hard-Wire Install
Vehicle Wiring Sheets For 2000-2002
- VIAS Explanation and Fix For 2000-2001
VIAS Explanation of Operation For 2000-2001
- Voltmeter Installation How-To (credit: AJ~)
- Window (Rear) wind noise - How to Fix (housecor)
Wiring A Scanner To The Clock Unit
XTEC HID Fog Kit Install
- Y-pipe Install (multiple how-tos at this link)

Last edited by Puppetmaster; 11-02-2011 at 06:04 AM.
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Old 04-11-2001, 07:16 PM
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ-U)


Table of contents - Last updated 10/15/2007 Puppetmaster

Common Bose Questions
I hear engine noise in my speakers, what should I do?
- Use of steering wheel controls with an aftermarket headunit on a 2k2/2k3
Why does my stock Bose CD player stop playing cd's after a while?

BBKs and The Negative Side of Increasing Front Bias Only
The Definitive Aftermarket Brakes Thread
Brake fluid comparison for Dry/Wet boiling point and cost

- What is the baseline dyno for 5 spds and autos?
Where can I find shops with a Dynojet?

Service Engine Soon (SES) Error Codes and Descriptions
What is a SES Light (aka MIL/CEL) and how do I RESET it?
How do I reset the ECU? (2000-2001)
How do I reset the ECU? (2002-2003)
2002-2003 Airbag Light Reset Procedure
Is there a use for the "economy" button on climate systems?
Will the Techtom MDM-100 work on my car?

Engines and Performance:
Engine Basics: Detonation and Pre-Ignition
Oxygen Sensor Locations and Wire Colors For 2000-2001
Why should I only use Premium Chevron w/ Techron...?
Should I save money by using a lower octane gas?
Reading sparkplugs (rich? lean? normal?)
When do I need to regap my sparkplugs?
Spark Plug Primer
The Definitive Variable Intake (VIAS) power loss thread
Aftermarket FPR (fuel pressure regulator)
Fuel Pump (FP) Upgrade?
Stalling in a 2000 Maxima
How Oxygen Sensors Work with ECUs
Pinpointing Bad Ignition Coils
Where is the IACV?

Cali vs Fed Spec emissions: How do you tell?
Are y pipes emissions legal?
Will a Y-Pipe Cause Me to Fail Emissions Testing?
Will a Y-pipe increase my exhaust noise level?
Is a y-pipe only 2.5 inches?
I hear banging after my y-pipe install... what should I do? (Part 1)
I hear banging after my y-pipe install... what should I do? (Part 2)
What I need to build a BETTER custom Cat-Back for LESS money
Reasons For A Catalytic Converter Failure
The Definitive Stillen Headers Thread...

Exterior Styling:
Can I replace a 2k bumper cover with a 2k2+?
What body kits are available?
Can I paint my front grill?

What are the pros/cons of the different intakes available?
Which Intake Should I Get?
Should I get the Tornado Air?
Will a K&N filter damage my MAF sensor?
What do I do if I think my MAF sensor failed?
2k MAF Sensor part #, price, and pic...
How much does a MAF cost??

Will an AE automatic shift **** fit on a 2000 model?
My rear deck rattles. How can I fix it?

Automotive Lighting FAQ
I want to change the light bulbs on my car. What do I look for?
What Kind of Bulbs should I use?
Audtatious's bulb chart
Why can't I touch some of my bulbs? What can I do if I did?
Do the Autodynamic clear markers come with bulbs?
Will a stock Nose Mask cover my new clear corners on a 2K Max?

I'm new here, what should I do before asking questions?
Dictionary of Terms/Slang used on the forum
I can't find my Owner Manual. What do I do?
What's Nissan's phone number?
- DaveB's new phone number: 1-888-254-6060 (ask for Dave BURNETTE)
Jack points for the 5th gen
What does "ooglie" mean?
What does OSCAI stand for?
The 2001 Nissan/Infinit Electronic Service Manual
Differences Between 2001 SE 20th Anniversary Edition & 2001 SE
What's this black shield you keep talking about?
What's that tube on the windshield washer reservoir cap?
PIAA Wiper Blade Refill
I got ripped of by Maxx Tuning...
Traffic Laws
How do I handle Internet fraud?

Rims and Tires:
Wheel Tech Guide: everything you need to know before you buy (Part 1)
Wheel Tech Guide: everything you need to know before you buy (Part 2)
Wheel Tech Guide: everything you need to know before you buy (Part 3)
Wheel Tech Guide: everything you need to know before you buy (Part 4)
Tire Sizing, Gear and Speedometer Analyzers, and Drag Racing Analyer
What should my tire pressure be?
What tire size can I use?
Can I run oversized tires on my stock 17" SE Rims?
5th Gen Tire Comparison, 17" tires
What tire sizes besides 225/50R17 can I safely run on my OEM rims?
Tire & Rim Association Contour (Rim Width) Charts
In defense of running 235/45R17 tires on 5th Gen OEM rims
Anyone weighed a 5th gen SE 16" wheel or 17" wheel?
Wheel weights
I chipped/scratched my rim. How can I fix it?

How low will my car be with these springs?
How do I stop the clunking/banking noises from my Addco RSB?

Technical Service Bullentins, Recalls, and Warranty Work:
Will mods void my warranty? (Part 1)
Will mods void my warranty? (Part 2)
Will mods void my warranty? (Part 3)
Will mods void my warranty? (Magnusson-Moss Act)
Do I have to pay for warranty work?
Does the dealer get paid for my warranty work?
How to get dealers to implement TSB fixes

What does a VB, TC, or tranny cooler do?
How to Reset the TCM
My 5 spd jerks sometimes, is it because of the fuel cut?
How do I tell if I need to fix my auto tranny mentioned in the TSB?

Turbo and Supercharger:
I want to supercharge my 5th gen auto
Approximate boost for different sized supercharger pulleys
Gates belt sizes for V2 supercharger

Last edited by Puppetmaster; 02-22-2009 at 06:14 AM.
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Old 04-11-2001, 07:20 PM
Rice Boy in Denial =)
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Product Reviews

Raxles CV axles: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=482615

Mach 1 front lip: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=487643

Z32 BlehmCo Brake kit: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=488864

G35 17" and 18" wheels: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=422495

Ebay Oil Catch Can: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=476577

Home Depot Ghetto Catch Can: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=417081

Yellow Fog Light Bulb Comparison: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=449650

Stainless Steel Clutch Line Install; http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=479739

Eibach Springs: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=477358

Tein H-Tech Springs: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=471572 and http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=470142

Maxspeed Springs: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=336259

Place Racing/Hybrid CAI: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=474072

Front Suspension "tune up": http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=472319

Frankencar Catback Install: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=422651

GAB/OSCAI: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=426288

Cattman Generation1 Y-Pipe: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=425727

Lower Tie Bar Clearance: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=421434

6th Gen Rotors and Calipers: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=389452

6th Gen Rotors/5th Gen Calipers: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=297272

Frankencar B-Pipe: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=404374

Red LED interior overhaul: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=389174

MP3 Player used with Bose HU: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=344564

"Lexus" Yellow Fogs Write-up: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=363621

BlehmCo Stage2 LTB: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=325407

VQ30 "Hyperground" http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=317734 and http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=318415

Redline Goods shift/ebrake boots install: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=288619

NWP VQ35 Phenolic Spacer Product Review thread (there may be more, but this is just one of them): http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....6848&highlight

NWP VQ35 Phenolic Spacer Product Development Discussion: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....4774&highlight

Last edited by irish44j; 08-04-2008 at 08:16 PM.
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Old 04-11-2001, 07:21 PM
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How To's Page 1

Otter'sMax's Dynamatting

Haven't dynomated my max but I did an entire nissan xcab truck. if you decide to take this on, be prepared for a long day. you have take all carpet out, door panels, seats, etc. you said you doors and trunk, which is a good start. get some acetone, a small harwood roller (kinda like a rolling pin) and a hair dryer. that is all the supplies needed. if you have the money get you local car stereo shop to do it, but be prepared for a huge labor bill. you can do it yourself on a sat or sun and save your cash for something else.

First clean the area completely w/ the acetone to remove any residue that will inhibit bonding. second take the dryer and heat the dynamat that you have already preshaped and cut to the desired area. heat till the entire piece is warm to the touch and pretty shapeable. now heat the panel that it is to be mounted too. mount the piece to the panel, and roll it out with the roller. get out all the air bubbles or you have just wasted your time and money on the dynomat. reinstall the carpet/panels and you are done!

No as for alternatives you can get sprays from companies like rockford fosgate, lightning audio, and dynamat. you can get a cheap alternative to dynamat too. all dynamat is is a thin sheet of asphalt. I used to post all time at http://www.sounddomain.com

Go there and search in their forums. Search for High Temp Mastic or dynamat and see what you come up with. There is a company you can get the same stuff just without the dynamat screenprint on it for about half the price.

Nevermind found it for you

HI-TEMP MASTIC, its all the way at the bottom, it costs around $13 for a 32" X 54" sheet.

more detailed instructions...
go to the search box on mcmaster.com
type in acoustic
go to acoustic dampers
(you will need adobe acrobat viewer)
there you go at the bottom.

Hope this helps and do it yourself! You'll appreciate it more that way


IceY2K1's fog light rewire

This is an explanation of how to wire your fog lights to operate with just the running lights on. Sorry, no pics available, however it's pretty simple. The factory setup only allows you to have them on with the low beams. This setup allows the fog light switch to still turn the fogs on/off, however the fogs still turn off once the brights are activated. I ran out of time to figure out how to provide the ground that was removed once the brights are turned on causing the fogs to turn off.



1) Remove passenger-side engine bay relay block cover 2-snaps. I also removed the coolant resevior to make things easier.

2) Remove the snaps to separate the middle section from the bottom. This step is to gain access to the bottom side of the BLUE foglight solenoids'(Top left corner of box) 4-wires.

3) Cut the Yellow wire with 2-silver horizontal bands leaving PLENTY of slack to splice. There are two yellow wires in the relay block, but only one goes to the fog light solenoids' "front-of-vehicle" terminal(right terminal if your looking down while on passenger side).

4) Splice a wire to the cut end that connects to the FOG LIGHT solenoid terminal NOT the one that goes OUT of the fuse block.

5) Drill or poke a hole in the bottom of the relay block case to allow the new wire you just spliced to fit through.

6) Connect the spliced wire with an inline fuse to the turn signals' RED wire with 2-yellow longitudinal stripes and single horizontal silver band every 1". You could also use the front side marker positive wire, but if you make them flash with your turn signals the fog lights will also flash.

7) Reconnect the battery and test ALL you lights. MAKE SURE your headlight switch is NOT in the high beam position or else the fogs will not work with the running lights. I did this and after I disassembled and reassembled everything 2-3 times, I realized I had everything correct but the high beam switch was on. Doooh!

8) Reassemble everything and use LOTS of electrical tape.

Side Note: If you want to have the fog light switch turn on the fog lights withOUT needing the running lights to be on, you could probably just connect the spliced wire to a 12V source that is activated with the ignition instead of the turn signals constant 12V. However, I didn't have time to try this, but I will do this when I connect the turn signals and side markers.

P.S: I also noticed that you can access the front side markers from the bottom of your car once you remove the splash guard to access the fog lights. This might be easier and safer then poping them off with a screw driver.


Desert Pearl's exhaust manifold conversion (Cali-spec to Fed-spec)

As many of you already know, I am in the process of partly changing my car from CA emissions to Federal emissions. I am NOT doing a complete conversion, but just enough to get by and also get the increase in HP.

Here's a summary. I am changing the front-side (aka left-side) exhaust manifold from the CA spec to Fed spec. This will allow me to bolt up a Fed spec y-pipe to both manifolds (the rear one is the same on CA and Fed models). I have already relocated the two downstream O2 sensors to after the main cat (similar to the one downstream sensor on the Fed model). You can see pics and descriptions on my web-site of this mod. I will finish the project and post an update here, as soon as I can get a Fed y-pipe.

You can reach this site directly by clicking on the following link:



In test mode... not sure if the ECU will freak out or not.

Credit: Trunksu for reporting dead link, [maxi-overdose] for giving the updated link

Foozed's A-pillar removal plus tweeter swap

The A-Pillar comes off by using a trim wedge, or regular screwdriver (be careful) by prying it away from the window at the top. It then pulls out from the bottom half. Putting it back in works in reverse (seat the bottom half in first, and snap it in all the way up to the top).

The stock tweeters are horrible. I dont recall 100%, but I think they were made by Clarion or something.. They are made mostly of paper, and are about as big as a quarter. These things couldnt produce a crisp tweet if they tried. I replaced mine with Polk audio components, which fit in perfectly.
The 6.5's for the door required a little plastic work to squeeze them in though..


Mdeal's BOSE unit rear parcel rattling fix

I have found somewhat of a resolution to the BOSE unit rattling the rear deck (e.g. parcel).

I found the parcel to not be securely fastened to the frame, or the metal stuff underneath. I used velcro to further secure the parcel to the metal stuff to add more rigidness. There is a clip which holds the parcel down, but apparently it is not holding it down enough, and it causes vibration. In summary, the BOSE unit is shaking, causing the vibrations to eminate up through the securing clip onto the rear parcel, resulting in a "rattling" of the rear deck sound.

It should be noted the proper way to do this is to take out the rear parcel. For my application, the foam pads (see pics) just behind the BOSE unit were the ones vibrating the most. Others were as well, but those two in particular were the worst.

I plan on going back in and removing the rear parcel completely, and Velcro'ing all spacers.

The pics are here: http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html under "BOSE..."

Note: Most of the rattle went away, but there is an ever so slight hint of it, most likely because I didn't not Velcro all spacers. This could have been attributed to the CD I was listening to as well. It is much better now.

See thread: https://maxima.org/forums/audio-electronics/35462-playstation-2-question.html

Desert Pearl's completed exhaust manifold conversion (Cali-spec to Fed-spec)



Credit: Trunksu for reporting dead link, [maxi-overdose]for giving updated link

Installing Fog light Bulbs

For 00-01s:


Credit: makdaddy386

For 02-03s:


Credit: Housecor


Credit: Audtatious

Pads and Rotor Replacement


Credit: i1k

How to install JWT popcharger

Hope I can help as I've installed a pop charger on two different cars.

As far as the stock scoop goes, I left it on both cars but that is a matter of preference. It does seem that it would push some cool air toward the intake. You can remove it if you desire.

Take the hole airbox out including the maf tube (there is a section where you can disconnect it from the scoop) and you remve the MAF tube after losening a hose clamp.

Take out the four bolts holding the maf to the airbox.

Set aside your airbox.

I find it easiest to remove the cone from the velocity stack at this point.

Bolt 3 of the new bolts that came with your pop charger to the maf tube leaving the one that will be closest to the top of the strut tower empty.

Slide the maf back into the area you removed it from. Slide makes it sound easy.. it actually requires a lot of work and a couple good strong shoves.

Tighten the hose clamp on the MAF.

Grab the mounting bracket, put one end over the empty hole on your pop charger and the other end to the airbox mounting point on your strut tower and bolt them both on.

Screw the cone filter back onto the velocity stack.

Crank that baby up and hear it suck in the air.

Here are some pics from a link provided by YJ (pics appear to be taken by gr8bone based on the URL : http://members.nbci.com/gr8bone/intake/

PR CAI Install


Oh just incase Geocities doesn't behave, keep refreshing, they are there.


Struts/Springs Swap

You gotta do this with someone who has done springs before. The first time I did it with my friend it took us about 8 hours (no air tools and no lift). I did struts this weekend with Tim's help and it still took 4-5 hours.

The short of it is:

For rear:

1. Jack up rear end of car and put it on jackstands (or use a lift). Note: Don't jack it up by the axle or you'll have "fun" getting it back together.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Remove the trunk liner.
4. There are 3 bolts on top of each strut. They can be found where the trunk meets the back seat.
5. Figure out some way to remove them (I used 2 socket extensions together. They are 14mm. Remove the outter 2 bolts, leaving the one in the center.
6. Remove the larg bolt connecting the strut to the axle (will need a breaker bar or equivalent).
7. Compress the spring.
8. Remove the top hat (thats the middle bolt).
9. If you are replacing springs, compress the new spring and then put it back on the strut.
10. Do steps 1-9 in reverse.

For front:

1. Jack up front end of car and put it on jackstands (or use a lift).
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Slightly loosen the center bolt on top of each strut.
4. Undo the 3 bolts around top of each strut.
5. Undo the two big bolts at the bottom of the strut (will need a breaker bar or equivalent).
6. Remove all the brake line clips from the bottom of the strut (there is a total of 3).
7. Remove the strut assembly from the car.
8. Compress the spring.
9. Remove the top hat (thats the middle bolt).
10. If you are replacing springs, compress the new spring and then put it back on the strut.
11. Do steps 1-10 in reverse.

0-60 Calculations from 1/4 Mile Slip

Anyone with a 1/4mile timeslip can make a very good estimate of their 0-60 time. Here's how:

1. Put your times in the following format in Excel:

time distance
2.439 60
6.737 330
10.202 660
13.154 1000
15.683 1320

2. Make an X/Y graph with the time on the X axis and the distance on the Y axis.

3. Add a trendline (polynomial fit of order 2) and display the formula. For those of us with less Excel experience than others, do this by clicking on any data point on the graph, then click on Chart in the main menu. Then click on Add Trendline. Then select polynomial. Make sure that it says order 2. Click on Options. Toward the bottom, click the box for Display Equation on Chart

4. Now you should have a graph with your data, plus a curvefit, plus a formula. This formula is in the form

y = ax^2 + bx + c

In another cell in Excel type the following:

"=(88-b)/2/a" inserting your values for a and b of course

This value is a VERY VERY good estimate of your 0-60mph time. Believe me this is much easier than it appears in my instructions. In fact it sounds like a good website to make. I think I'll do that next time I get some free time.

Here's a picture that will help illustrate what it should look like. Any questions, feel free to email me.

BTW, the example I used is my best 0-60 in my auto Max (7.90 sec).


AE auto shift **** on 2000 model

Some modifications need to be done to the shift assembly (the part the shift **** attaches to) in order to get the AE shift **** to fit and work. Without the modifications to the shift assembly, the AE automatic shift **** will not work: the new shift **** is not plug-n-play on a 2000 model Maxima.

Once you modify the shift assembly, so that the AE **** will fit and work, your stock "T" shaped shift **** WILL NO LONGER WORK. This means once you switch you can not go back unless you purchase a new shift assembly. The shift assembly costs between $200~$300.

I took some notes as to what needs to happen to get the AE shift **** fitted and working on a 2000 model Maxima. I did not have a camera at the time I actually did the work, but I have summarized the key points on my website. The key points are the measurements and what needs to be modified. I took pics after I had everything done and some time later.

I do not include instructions on how to remove the center console, nor do I include instructions on how to disconnect the OD wires and reconnect the OD wires. You can PM me and I can assist with these two items.

Here are my notes:
http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html and choose "Non-AE Automatic Transmission Shift **** Installation".

Good luck!

Punching out cat

Materials needed.
Long screwdriver (doesn't matter if its flathead or x)
Paper grocery sack.

1. Jack the front of the car up so that you can get under the car easily.
2. Right behind the Y pipe there should be the cat. It has a heatshield covering it. Remove the heatshield.
3. There should be 4 screws to unscrew. You need a 14 MM IIRC. These bolts will be very difficult to remove. Try using WD-40 to loosen them up first. Use a breaker bar with a deep socket 14 MM. The screws are kinda long.
4. There is a sensor there as well. Be sure you remember how it goes back on.
5. After removing the cat. Find a paper grocery sack.
6. Using a deep long screwdriver start hammering out the honey comb inside. Try to get large chunks out first. This will make it easier at the end.
7. Continue "punching" out the cat until all is gone.
8. Replace the cat and put the sensor back on. bolt the cat back on tightly so it doesn't rattle.
9. If you feel no gains at all try reseting the ecu.
10. Enjoy.

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsable for you fouling up, not passing emissions and everything else. If you screw up its at your own cost. Don't come looking for me if you foul up.

How-To Install Chrome Gauge bezels on 2000+ Nissan Maxima

You will need a phillips screw driver for this.

1- Unscrew 2 screws at the top of the dashboard inside where the instrument cluster is.
2- Unscrew the 4 outside under the steering wheel... that will detach the top part of the plastic cover over the steering column. take that off.
3- Pull out the plastic that is around the instrument cluster that is holding in the gauge cluster into the car... when pulling this out you will have to disconect the wires from behind it. pull out the traction control wire (if you have it) and the other 2 wires on the left side ( i dont remember what they are... i think the dim switch and the mirror adjustment)
4- This will expose 3 screws to remove the actual cluster from the car. 1 on top in the middle, 1 on the bottom left corner, 1 on the bottom right corner. Unscrew these 3 screws
5- pull out the cluster. there are also 2 wires to disconect from the back of this. just pull them out the same way you did with the other ones. once they are disconected just pull the whole cluster out.
6- the clear plastic cover is attached to the cluster with maybe 10 little snaps all around the whole thing... they work on pressure... when you see them you will right away know how to un snap them... just go all the way around and unsnap each of them.
7- once everything is unsnapped just pull the clear plastic off and now your instrument cluster is exposed. stick the guage bezels on each of the gauges. press down firmly and make sure that they stick good... push down all the way around so there are no little cracks that light can pass through between... just run your finger all around a bunch of times applying pressure. also you dont want these things to fly off while you are driving.
8- put the plastic back on and work in reverse order by attaching all the wires and putting the screws back and everything and thats it.
9- sit and admire it and say cool that looks pretty good

UDP Install

GregP's site:
(make sure the whole address is on one line)

My explanation:
1) Loosen all belt tension and take off the belts.
2) To take the stock crank pulley off, put the 19(?) socket with breaker bar over the pulley bolt.
3) Place the breaker bar against the control arm of the car.
4) Have someone crank the car for a split second (don't start the car) to break the bolt free.
5) Do all the mumbo jumbo stuff and swap the stock pulley with the UDP.
6) To tighten the bolt, take a hammer and whack the breaker bar on the right side (clockwise). This procedure acts like an "impact" gun.
7) Give the breaker bar about 5-10 good whacks and you should be fine. * Who needs to torque it down to the correct spec anyways? *
8) Tighten belt tensions
9) Laugh at people who actually took their starter off and used a pry bar to stop the flywheel. Get laughed at by the starter people because the crank pulley is not torqued to the correct spec.
10) Done.

If you take your car to a shop, they won't torque the pulley bolt down to the correct spec anyways.

Desert Pearl's addition:
Regarding step #3 above, I actually put my bar above the control arm. There is a subframe type structure right above the control arm. I put my wrench in that area and put a rag under the wrench so it was touching the subframe. Then I ran around and blipped the starter. On the third blip it broke free. These were very short blips because I didn't disconnect the coil to keep it from starting. It was a "tick" on the first try... a "tick" on the second... and a "wrrrr-wrrrr" on the third and I knew it was free.

I wouldn't recommend trying any other way of removing this bolt unless you have an air compressor and an impact wrench. All else is a waste of time... believe me, I spent a lot of time working on it before doing like Kev suggested and using my starter. Once I tried that it was off in a matter of minutes.

I have one more thing to add to step #5. I'd recommend putting some anti-sieze on the crank shaft or inside edge of the new pulley. This will keep them from "corroding". (You know how unlike metals don't like each other!)

Koni Install

I finally had time this last weekend to install the 4th Gen. koni adjustable shocks I purchased from Cattman and the H&R springs from the Tire Rack. Thanks to OzziSVT for his help! The entire operation took 6 hours with hand tools and manual spring compressors.

The low down…

Rear Suspension

After we had the car on jack stands and removed the trunk liner we noticed a sheet metal stamping that went around the top of the shock attachment that had a small opening for tool access to the shock retaining bolts. We could not get our ratchet onto one of the bolts. So we put the rear seats down and removed the plastic backing between the seats and sheet metal. Then we saw that the trunk pass through has a large metal stamping around the opening that buts up against the shock tower stampings. After we removed a majority of the bolts on the large stamping we were able to remove the shock tower stampings.

The rear shocks are a direct bolt in with no modifications necessary. The total time was two hours.

Front Suspension

The front struts are easy to remove. Two bolts hold on the shock to the knuckle (they do not have a cam type shoulder for setting the alignment). The shock also has a clip that retains the break line and a grommet and another bolt that retain the ABS wire. Removing the springs is a straightforward process.

Replacing the strut insert took some time. We followed the instructions for draining the shock of its oil. Next, we had the cut the top off the body of the strut. You have to measure down 3/4" for your cut (the instructions say 7mm). This is because the internal portion of the shock is attached to the body for a little over 1/2". The koni cartridge fit within the modified strut housing.

This is where we had to do some modifications to the strut hat.

The first item is that the threaded stock end of the rod has been machined off on the sides of the treads to allow a hold and drive device to be used on the shock (if you look at the threads from the top it appears that the circle was changed to a rectangle with the short ends are an arc instead of a straight line). This profile is copied onto the strut hat. The koni's did not have this feature, so we had to take a Dremel tool and open up the hat.

Secondly, the hat has a metal collar that extends down to contact the shoulder of the strut rod. The stock shoulder allows more threads than the koni units. Therefore we had to remove about 2/3 of the collar to get enough thread to bolt the rod the hat.

Just make sure that you properly align the hat with the spring retainer (the retainer has a marking that specifies "OUT") during reassembly.

The total time was 4 hours.

Credit: DNA21


Street Scenes Grill Install

Check out pics of the finished product here:


1) I ordered them from my local speed shop in June, installed the valence in July & the main grille in August.
2) They are manufactured by Street Scene Equipment.
3) Help out a fellow Maxima Enthusiast by ordering them from Greg at www.CustomMaxima.com at $120 for the main grille and $100 for the valence grille.
4) It's recommended that you cut out the main grille to install it correctly.
5) Valence grille installs in less than 30 minutes, no cutting.
6) Main grille installation takes much longer. If you're as picky as I am about it being perfect, it may take the better part of a day, if you cut out the original main grille.
7) I installed them by myself.
8) If you decide to chrome it, make sure you prefit it first, because it might need some shaping to fit perfect, otherwise the chrome plating might chip off if done afterwards.
9) Part numbers: Main Grille #95077300
Valence Grille #95077320

Valence Speed Grille install:
1)Remove approximately 8-10 (4 or 5 per side) splashguard fasteners beneath front bumper (plastic plugs) and bend down the splashguards. The splashguards are flexible and bend at the crease.
2)You might not need car ramps, if you can reach in behind the bumper to install the clips, but it will make it easier.
3)Attach the long clips provided from behind bumper and install the grille from the front, it only installs one way & you can tell because one end (top or bottom) is more narrow. The grille also has indentations where it rests against the vertical plastic fins (supports) of the bumper.
4)The clips can be difficult to pry open, so watch you're fingers. Push the clips until they are gripping the bumper and an edge of the grille at the same time. Try to space them evenly, 4 top & 4 bottom. The clips are shaped to allow clearance over the grille mesh, so they only install one way. It's easier to clip the areas that have mesh that extends further back towards the rear of the bumper.
5)Replace splash guard fasteners, now you're done.

Main Speed Grille install:
1)Remove multiple fasteners on top of center grille & beneath the car (plastic plugs & a few screws). There are four (4) above the grille, approx. ten (10) beneath the front bumper, & approx. five (5) associated with each wheel well. You may need to remove these to get at the lights.
2)Disconnect foglights & sidemarkers.
3)Remove front bumper with someone to help & place on a non-scratch surface. I used a bunch of old towels beneath it, in case I dropped any fasteners or the bumper itself.
4)Remove screws holding grille surrounding trim (chrome color on GXE? & GLE and charcoal grey on SE) in place from the backside of the bumper.
5)Cut out original main grille beams, leaving the holes for the screws to reattach the surrounding trim. I used a hacksaw blade with no handle attached, it's easier to position. Cut around the holes, using the trim as a template.
6)Use a Dremel tool or file to make the cuts flush & remove any plastic burrs.
7)I spray-painted the cut locations flat black, because the plastic gets greyish-white when you cut it. A few light coats is sufficient. Let it dry between coats & before proceeding further.
8)Replace the surrounding trim with the screws.
9)Gently bend the grille to fit snug and tight. Only bend the contact points at the edges. Be careful not to scratch the surrounding trim, as the grille edges are sharp. The front of the grille should fit flush with the back edge (lip) of the surrounding trim. It will be positioned approx. 1/2 inch back.
10)It installs with short clips, but I used several black zip ties at strategic locations (at the surrounding trim screw locations) which are hard to see, unless you are less than a foot from the car. I also used a few self-drilling screws to make sure it doesn't come loose. The screws drill a hole first, so that the plastic doesn't crack, which will happen with regular screws.
11)Replace the bumper & reconnect the lights.
12)Replace all of the fasteners that you removed.
13)If you don't have any extra hardware after installation, you're done!
14)Take a picture of your car and post some pics. I've already seen them on Superblack (Pillager & RussMaxManiac) & Icelandic Pearl (chucky) Maximas, so please post pics of other color Maximas or if you've got some sweet mods. Oh yeah, remember to close your mouth, you're drooling. Crack open a cold one if you're of drinkin age, just don't drive afterwards. Peace & enjoy your beer, you deserve it.

See psing23 "Installing Chrome Gauge Bezels" for more clarification on how to remove the gauges cluster/bezel.

Pro-Shift Lite Install Click here for some pics
1)Disconnect Battery NEGATIVE terminal! Wrap terminal in shop towel and put it where it won’t move.
2)Remove (3) Philips-head screws under steering column to remove top half of plastic steering column cover.
3)Move steering column to lowest position.
4)Remove (2) Philips-head screws underneath top part of gauge bezel(Tach/Speedo).
5)Unsnap large electrical connector on top back portion of steering column near the gauge bezel for more clearance.
6)Pull black bezels’ lower quadrant until snaps on left and right side release.
7)Carefully pull bezel away from the dash on the LEFT side and unsnap power mirror and gauge dimmer harness.
8)Remove bezel completely.
9)Remove (3) Philips-head bolts(White) on Combination meter.
10)Carefully pull Combo meter out of dash and turn UPSIDE down to expose reverse sides’ wiring harnesses.
11)Put Dielectric grease on an universal 18-22 gauge TAP.
12)Tap the White with GREEN stripe wire on Combo meters’ left most harness down towards the Y in the wires where the foam insulation is split. Use tape to protect the wire/tap from chaffing and rattling.
13)Connect the TAP to the GREEN wire of Shift Light.
14)Run the Shift Lights’ RED and BLACK wires to the FUSE panel on lower left side of steering column.
15)Connect BLACK ground wire to bolt on car.
16)Find empty “fuse slot” in fuse block.
17)Snip SMALL amount off one leg of a SPARE 5-AMP fuse.
18)Place RED power wire on shorter leg of the fuse and push into the LOWER/BOTTOM half of the “fuse slot”.
19)Reconnect the NEGATIVE battery terminal.
20)Plug in the 3000 RPM pill, start the car, rev slowly past 3000, and see that light comes on and stays on.
21)Replace the 3000 RPM pill with the correct HIGH rpm pill.
22)DO NOT LEAVE THE 3000 RPM PILL IN! The light remains on and the unit gets VERY hot.
23)Reverse steps 2-10 to reinstall gauge cluster/bezel.

Last edited by Puppetmaster; 01-11-2008 at 09:34 AM.
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Paul2KGXE's Rear Sway Bar (RSB) write-up

Instructions and pictures can be found here:

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dead link

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OSCAI (Ooglie Stock Cold Air Intake) write-ups



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Y2KevSE's do-it-yourself Ooglie front clear markers

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Russ2kSE's Instructions on Rewiring your Fogs with pictures

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Russ2kSE's Instructions on Rewiring your corner lights to blink with blinkers

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Russ2kSE's Hardwiring your Radar Detector Instructions

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alrite kev, you're gonna hafta work your magic on these pix since they're from geocities.

this is how to flushmount an aftermarket head unit/deck/radio






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and more.. again this is from geocities

directions: use a fishing line if you have any. to get rid of the adhesive material left on the car after you've removed the emblem, spray wd40 on it let it soak for a lil and then scrub it off with a terry towel. some others also suggested the use of goo gone.


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Molded Dash Kit Installation

Finally made a web page for the Woodview molded dash kit installation. Thanks to Rocketshipon19" for trying this kit first.

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Old 08-18-2001, 12:24 PM
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2002 Rear Light Installation

Very easy install. Anybody can do this one.

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Old 08-18-2001, 02:56 PM
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Re: 2002 Rear Light Installation

Originally posted by Paul2kGXE
Very easy install. Anybody can do this one.

The only thing I would add to these very good instructions are that if you have rewired your rear clears to your blinker, you will have to undo that and re-connect that - not too bad, but I forgot about it until I got in there.
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BigDogJonx's 2k2 HID installation

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FD/FP LED switch swap/install

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Info on tranny cooler install

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Old 10-03-2001, 09:59 AM
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Scanner to clock unit wiring write-up

Now here is what the back of the clock unit looks like. If you look closely, you will see that EVERY wire is labeled and tells you what it is. All you have to do is hook it up to the correct corresponding wire.

Now this shows an exact picture of the wiring I have done. The RED wire from the SCANNER connects to the Yellow/Red wire. The YELLOW wire from the SCANNER connects to the Green Wire (The picture shows me splicing a black wire, that is because I had to extend the original yellow wire from the scanner.) The last wire left on the scanner is BLACK, that I just grounded to the sunroof bolt under the sunglass holder. No need to extend that wire all the way down to the clock unit for NO reason.

This will work and is the correct way to wire the scanner. It will blink or do whatever pattern when the car is off or armed. When the car is turned on, the scanner turns off.

Hope this helps and solves everyones problems. Simple install, but I think some of you got confused. Now everyone can have knightrider style SCANNERS.

Black-out chrome window trim

I used a product manufactured by TRIMBRITE Products . It's kinda like a vinyl tape with adhesive that's flat black in color. It comes in a roll 1 3/8 in. X 20 ft. The item/product number is T-9005. It's made specifically for blacking out chrome window trim. It's relatively easy to apply, if you have patience, because you'll have to cut the tape, cuz it's too wide. The most difficult areas to do are around the front window (side mirror) and the rear door window. The curves are too sharp for the tape to bend around, so it must be cut into two or three pieces to make it around.

Installation directions:

1. Apply only at temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (16-27 degrees Celcius). Note: Do not apply to a hot surface or in direct sunlight.

2. Clean application area thoroughly. For application over pre-painted moldings, remove all paint elements first, exposing the base metal surface.

3. Cut tape oversize to the length of application area. Note: From personal experience, I recommend that you leave approximately 0.5 millimeter extra around the edges. I installed mine in the summertime, and since it's black and subjected to heat and direct sunlight, I found that it shrinks less than 0.5 millimeters over the course of a few months. I have some very small gaps, but they can't be see from the side of the vehicle, unless you're a few feet away and looking directly down at the seams.

4. Slowly remove backing paper as you apply. Carefully rub firmly into molding contours or over edges. Note: Avoid creases or bubbles in film.

5. Trim excess tape with a knife or razor blade. Repeat as required. Note: Be careful not to cut too deeply into the window trim or rubber moldings, as the razor will easily cut through them.

6. Do not wash vehicle or subject it to abuse for approximately 48 hours.

7. Good Luck & Enjoy Your Tight Ride!!!

If you have any additional questions, feel free to PM or email me.


00-01 HID Conversion

H4 HID Kit w/o beam correction.(MUST)
Silicone Sealant
3M Moulding Tape
Two (2) Balloons
Philips Screwdriver

Before Proceeding, Understand Everything:

Remove Factory Fog Lights. Be careful to remove fog light plug or cut harness so you keep both ends of the harness.

Disassemble fog light unit. Remove H3 bulb, and bulb clip.(Small Philips.)

H4 HID Kit w/ metal rings or H4 HID kit w/ injection molded base.

*Please becareful when inserting the HID burner, as the H3 opening is tight, and the HID capsule will be a tight fit, and take care not to break the ceramic shield.(I broke 3 in this process.)


Look at the back of the housing, how the inner part is round. You must shave a little off the 3 prongs to hold the HID burner in place in the housing. To view the position of the ceramic shield, face the lens side towards you and rotate til you can see the ceramic shield, which should face down. Adjust accordingly so you don't make contact w/ the housing.(The housing will melt if the ceramic rests on the plastic housing part.)

The HID burner should be snug against on the "perch" where the H3 Bulb clip was.
As you position the HID burner, be very careful.

Once in place, use silicone to seal the HID burner in place, and let dry for a few hours.
Cut a Balloon to fit the back of the housing, and add a bead of silicone to seal the deal.
Make a cut in the middle of the balloon, and wrap the balloon around the HID Burner base.

Optional: The "cap" on the back of the factory fog light can be used as a "lock ring" on top of the balloon to ensure 100" sealing. You must cut off the rear of the "cap" so it remains flush.


Attach the HID plug to the HID Burner Base, to ensure fit.
Use 3M Moulding Tape on the underside of the HID Ballast.(3 Strips should be used) Place the tape on the opposite side of the power input and HID output on the bottom.
HID Ballast in first and route plug through the right side of the Fog Light "cage" (Driver as well as Passenger side.)
Attach the HID plug to the HID burner base.
Insert the fog light housing, make sure to line up the alignment dowels.
You must add some pressure to get the 10mm screw on the bottom of the housing. Once that is in, the wiring harness should be spliced in, and FOG FUSE MUST BE CHANGED to 30A~!(Located under the dash on the left side.)
Please test to ensure wiring was done correctly, correct if needed.
Mount Ballast on top of Fog Light "cage"(Please clean the top part w/ rubbing alcohol) as it will press against the metal bumper reinforcement.

The pattern on the floor will be wide, and pattern on the wall will be bright as well as the sides.

Even w/ HID Headlamps, HID Fog lights will light the sides even more, and any space that is not covered by HIDs in the headlamps in front will be covered.

-Please don't blind friends who drive in front w/ your HID Fog lights. They will cause alot of glare.

Credit: yo_its_ok


Proper headlight aiming procedure

Here is a website that will help you aim your headlights correctly for any car. The key is what the website says about having the car 25ft from the wall and aiming it on the wall correctly. But remember the key also is to be on a level ground, even the slightest amount of unlevel ground will make it so the headlights are off.


This can be done on the 2K2 hids by turning the white plastic nut on the back with a 8mm wrench. On the 2K-2K1, there is a small metal nut on the back that need to be turned.


Stillen RSB Additional Comments

When installing a Stillen RSB on a 5th gen:

The 2001 and 2002 has a different ABS line cover than the 2000.

You will notice the Blue Bracket from stillen does not fit over the ABS line holder because of a small tab sticking out.

Your Options (Choose one):
1. Remove the whole abs bracket, Stillen said this was ok as the blue brackets were designed to protect the ABS line
2. Cut tab off (Use a dremel or tin snips)
3. Bend nub down with a mallet(what I did incase I want to return to stock)
4. Get abs holder from 2000

**the ABS line should go BEHIND the blue brackets. Stillen cut a grove for the ABS wires to fit. Also make sure you follow the directions on how to install the bolts to prevent brake line rubbing**

Email me if you need more info!

Stealth running lamps

Eliminates the AMBER running lamp filament on the 1157 bulb used for a 2K-2K1 headlamp, but still uses the blinker filament. This mod makes the headlamps only produce white light until the blinker is activated, which looks better in my opinion especially with clear front corners.

1)Remove the bulb/socket from the headlamp housing.
2)Remove the bulb from the socket.
3)Place SMALL piece of black electrical tape over ONE "knub"(small contact on bottom of bulb).
4)Reinstall bulb into the socket.
5)Turn on hazards(or blinker with keys in ignition). If it flashes reinstall bulb/socket into the headlamp housing, if not, remove bulb from the socket and move the electrical tape to the other "knub".

More spring/strut swap information

These instructions were posted earlier by Punkdork. I have copied his steps and added a few of my own notes for further detail and a few comments by ArcticMax after his experience. I did swapped struts and springs with Tokico and H&R. I did most of the project myself, and it is possible. I did part of it with a buddy of mine who ditched me after about an hour. It would have been much easier had he hung out, so find a friend for this one or plan to spend the day with your car in the air.

For rear:
  1. Jack up rear end of car and put it on jackstands (or use a lift). Note: Don't jack it up by the axle or you'll have "fun" getting it back together.
  2. Remove the rear wheels.
  3. Remove the trunk liner.
  4. There are 3 bolts on top of each strut. They can be found where the trunk meets the back seat. There is a metal guard over the bolts...don't bother trying to remove the guard...it will require removing a lot of crap you don't want to remove.
  5. Figure out some way to remove them (I used 2 socket extensions together. They are 14mm. Remove the outter 2 bolts, leaving the one in the center. This process is a huge pain-in-the-***, but not nearly as hard as tightening the bolts later.
  6. Remove the large bolt connecting the strut to the axle (will need a breaker bar or equivalent). At this point, the strut will fall, so hold on to it.
  7. At this point, you should loosen the top hat bolt (DO NOT REMOVE). Once the spring has been compressed, the top hat will rotate the entire strut rod, and if you haven't loosened the bolt it will be a PIA to get off later.
  8. Compress the spring.
  9. Remove the top hat mechanism.
  10. If you are replacing springs, compress the new spring and then put it back on the strut.
  11. Do steps above steps in reverse. After attaching the top hat mechanism, spin down the bolt a bit (the strut rod will begin spinning with the bolt), once you decompress the spring you will be able fully tighten the bolt much easier.

For front:
  1. Jack up front end of car and put it on jackstands (or use a lift).
  2. Remove the front wheels.
  3. Slightly loosen the center bolt on top of each strut.
  4. Undo the 3 bolts around top of each strut. They are 14mm
  5. Undo the two big bolts at the bottom of the strut (will need a breaker bar or equivalent). The bolts are 19mm and the nuts are 17mm. It will be easier to do this with a break bar and wratchet combination.
  6. Remove all the brake line clips from the bottom of the strut (there is a total of 3).
  7. Remove the strut assembly from the car.
  8. Compress the spring.
  9. Remove the top hat (thats the middle bolt). Watch yourself as you remove the center bolt as the top coil on the spring will likely "pop" up as soon as the bolt comes off...it can catch you off guard and be dangerous if you're not ready for it.
  10. If you are replacing springs, compress the new spring and then put it back on the strut.
  11. Do above steps in reverse. I was unable to reattach one of the brake lines, however the lines seem adequately held by the two clips.

Note from ArcticMax: Keep in mind, when replacing the strut assembly that the trailer arms can be moved up and down to help align the bolt at the bottom of the assembly behind the rotor. Don't struggle with it too long...just push up or down on the rotor or trailer arm and the bolt hole will move for you.


00-03 shift console install on 00-01 MT only

Email me for questions or if the links don't work.

2K2 Shift Console Install Pics

Installing 2K2 shift surround console on 2K-2K1(M/T ONLY)

Parts Required: $78.xx + shipping includes console with shift boot, silver ring, and ashtray/ashtray light. Call David Burnette(Nissan Parts Guru) (888)254-6060.

Tools Required: (1)Philips and (2)Slot screw drivers.

Remove OLD console:
1) Put gear shift in 4th gear and remove shift ****.
2) Remove ashtray liner.
3) Remove PHILIPS screw(inside bottom of the ashtray).
4) Grab REAR portion of shift boot hole and pull upward till snaps let go.
5) Grab sides of FRONT portion of shift boot hole and pull upward till snaps let go.
6) Slide the console down and back to clear the front lip.
7) Unsnap the 3 electrical connectors:
- Cig. lighter and ashtray light are simple.
- Hazard button has a push button snap on the drivers' side white portion of the connector.

8) Remove OLD console.

Install NEW console:
1) Unsnap the Hazard button on the OLD console and push it out the FRONT side of the console.
2) Push it through front side of the NEW console and secure the snaps.

TRICKY Part: Removing the cig. lighter
3) Pry upward with the 2-slot screw drivers on the North AND South tabs of the BLACK plastic piece, while pushing the METAL piece of the cig. lighter from backside through the frontside of the console until removed.
4) Unsnap BLACK plastic piece.
5) Install the BLACK plastic piece FIRST into the NEW console.
6) Slide the metal piece from frontside into the BLACK plastic piece on the NEW console.
7) REVERSE the installation steps used to remove the OLD console.

Note: The 2K1 Anniversary Edition pedals and shift **** are also available from Dave B.. Feel free to email questions or comments. Thanks.

Q&A Thread

How to recognize VIAs issues - 00-01s only

Look guys - there are only a few ways to establish if you have a vias problem (that I know of). The threshold is - do you have a power loss problem that you can feel ABOVE 5K RPMS? That is the only time VIAS makes any difference. If so, this is what you do:

First, is to determine if the VIAS APPEARS to be functioning from the engine compartment. To do that, locate the actuator and the rod that moves the flaps inside the vias. It is located under the rectangular black box on the driver's side of the intake manifold. You will see a copper colored piece of metal that comes out of the Variable intake and then turns so that it points to the front of the car. You will need to look UNDER the box. When you hit 5k, that piece is pulled up by the actuator. You can visibly see it move. Best way to test is to just push on the throttle under the hood and rev it up until it the valve moves. If it never moves (and you get to 5k) you've definitely got a problem. If it does move, Nissan will tell you that you don't have a problem.

Second, VIas is only a factor after 5k rpms. So, find AN IDENTICAL maxima to test against. You can't test against Legends. Also, it is very hard to test against other cars when you are modified. If you've got mods, the other guy should have the same mods. Roll each other in 3rd gear (don't bother with 1 and 2) and you should be even until 5k rpms at which time the car without the problem begins to walk away and continues on into 4th.

Third, disable your VIAS system and drive around - do you notice the difference above 5k. If no difference, then you've got some kind of VIAS problem. If you feel a difference there is nothing wrong with your VIAS.


Credit: Max_Gator

Installing AE MT pedals on 00-01

As for the difficulty on installing the AE pedals, they are a PITA until you figure out how.

The EASY part:
The gas pedal/arm is a complete unit and you simple push with your fingers from the back side of the cable until the plastic retaining snap comes through and the pedal is released. Unbolt the two 10mm bolts holding the spring/plate and intstall the new pedal.

The PITA part:
Slip off the brake and clutch(if 5-speed) covers. Slide the top part of the AE cover onto the pedal. Then use a VERY small flat head screw driver to slowly pry the remaining rubber lip around the edges of the pedal. I tried to use grease, heat, and finally I just had to pry to get them on.

I thought the gas pedal was going to be the hard part and the covers were going to be like 5 mins, boy was I mistaken.

Removing condensation from side markers

Start with obtaining some desiccant. You can obtain some online at SafetyCentral, Dessicare, or Desiccant City to name a few. You can do it one of two ways:

Non-heating method

If you don't want to put your clear sidemarker in the oven, then obtain silica based desiccant. Put the sidemarker(s) in a small plastic storage container with tight fitting lid and place a few packets of the silica desiccant within the container or pour the dessicant directly into your marker and set aside for a few days. Check on the markers after two days and if more time is required (depending on the atmospheric conditions in your locale) then check daily or every other day until the moisture is gone.

Heating method

This procedure requires the use of heat to remove the moisture. Set the oven to about 110 degrees Farenheit and place some clay based desiccant within a pie pan and cover the pan with foil. Fill the pan with enough to cover the bottom, and maybe just a little bit more. Set this pan aside. Place the clear sidemarker(s) on top of a cookie sheet and place it in the oven for about 30 minutes. At this time check to see if the moisture is gone. If it is not, put it back in the oven and check the markers in 15 minute intervals until the moisture is gone. Once you see it dissappear, or become less within the sidemarker, take the marker(s) out of the oven and put the marker(s) into the pie pan and cover with the foil. Any of the moisture within the marker(s) should be absorbed by the desiccant. If after this, you still see moisture, repeat this procedure, except in 15 minute intervals and not 30 minutes like the initial drying.

After removing the moisture

After you have removed the moisture (and cooled the markers down if need be), place a bead of clear silicone along the edge where the opaque portion meets the translucent portion of the marker. Let dry for 24 hours, or by the recommendations of the silicone packaging and then you're ready to go!

Delayed headlamps rewire for 00-01s

This rewire will allow the headlamps to have the full 40 second delay (when in 'ON' position not 'AUTO') after you turn off your ignition and will NOT be cancelled when you open one of the front doors. It will also cause your retained accessory power to last the full 30 seconds (approx) and also will not be cancelled when opening either of the front doors.

What you will need:

Wire cutters/stripper
Phillips Screw Driver
About 10' of 18 Gauge Primary Wire
Electrical Tape
Optional: Wire Taps (or just splice and tape)

There are a couple of things that you will lose by doing this mod:

The interior lights will no longer have a delay when you open the driver's door but you will still have the interior light delay when you unlock the doors with the remote.

The 'chime' for key-in-ignition will no longer work but that shouldn't matter since you should always lock your car with the remote (with keys in-hand) anyway. Your anit-lock-out-protection WILL STILL WORK. (If you try to lock the doors with the key in the ignition and with a door open the doors will still automatically unlock.)

Essentially what you will be doing in this mod is making the SECU (Smart Entrance Control Unit) think that a rear door is being opened when you open one of the fronts.


Driver's Side: Open Driver's door and pull off the panel just inside the car where the carpet goes under. (The door seal is next to this panel) Start pulling at the rear of the panel and it should come up easily then pull it the rest of the way off...the forward end goes up towards the fuse box. Also remove the same panel in the left rear floor-board. Behind these you will find a bundle of wires. VERY CAREFULLY expose about 3" of the wires by cutting the tape in the front and rear bundle. Now confirm the color of wires going to your door-open switches. With a screw driver..remove the driver's door door-open switch. The wires going to this switch should be BLACK and a SKYBLUE W/WHITE STRIPE. Remove the rear door-open-switch. There should only be one wire going to the rear door switch: RED W/WHITE STRIPE. Replace switches. Go back to bundle of wires IN FRONT and CUT the SKYBLUE W/WHITE STRIPE wire. Tape off the end of the wire going towards the front of the car--it will no longer be needed. Strip the other end of the wire (switch side) and splice about a 4' long piece of wire to it. Run the wire under the B-pillar to where the wires are exposed in the rear. Cut off any of the excess of wire that you ran and splice & tape/or tap into the RED WIRE W/WHITE STRIPE.

Test: Turn ignition until all the dash lights come on--Turn headlamps all the way to the "ON" postion--Turn ignition to off--Headlamps should stay on for 40 seconds even if you open the driver's door. The retained accessory power will also stay on for the full 30 seconds allowing you to operate windows or sunroof even if you open the driver' door. Tape all of the wires up and scure them and re-install panels.

Passenger's side: Remove panels and expose wires like you did on the driver's side. Confirm wire colors going to both passenger's side switches. Front passenger's should be BLACK and a RED W/DARK BLUE STRIPE (different from driver's side). Rear should be RED W/WHITE STRIPE (like the driver's side). Cut the RED W/DARK BLUE STRIPE in front and tape off the part going to the front of the car. Strip the other end of the wire (switch side) and splice about a 4' long wire to it. Run wire to rear (like you did on driver's side) and splice/tap into RED WIRE W/WHITE STRIPE.

Test: Now the headlamps and retained accessory power should not be cancelled when you open the front passenger's door. Tape up and secure all wires and re-install panels.

Exporting OBD-II logs into Excel

Only applies to Alex Peppers' software from http://www.obd-2.com.

The advantage of exporting the data to Excel once your back home on your PC, is that you can use Excels' graphing capabilities to plot RPM vs. TPS, RPM vs. Spark Advance, etc.. or ANY two variables for that matter. There are ENDLESS possibilities to what you can do with this information. It may take some time to figure out what's useful and what's not, but I think this can be a HUGE help on tuning a car to it's maximum potential withOUT the use of a dyno.

The information is available, we just need to figure out how to use it!

*You MUST already have a *.log file from a scan to do this.
*I recommend you perform this in a "Top-Down" order or else you might not end up with the same results.

Part 1(Converting your *.log file to a comma delimited *.prn file):
1)Start the OBD Scanner.(obd2.exe)
2)Choose File->Open from the drop down menu.
3)Choose Your_File_Name.log that you want to export to Excel to graph.
4)Once the player opens, press "Play".(Sometimes it says "No vehicle info here try again", but press "Play" anyways)
5)Once it's finished, choose File->Export from the drop down menu.
6)Select your file and change the drop down window "Save file as type:" to ","delimited",data *.prn".
7)Change the "Folders:" window to where you want Your_File_Name.prn file to be saved.(just put it on your desktop)
8)Choose "OK".
9)On the "data export" pop-up window click on the "scale" arrows and choose your desired time stamp units, an example I choose is "h:m:s"(hours:minutes:seconds). However, if you choose a large amount of data to graph, it gets too crowded to read, so you might use just “s”(seconds) or “m”(minutes), etc..
10)Choose "OK" and check that Your_File_Name.prn is located on your desktop.
11)Close the OBD Scanner(obd2.exe).

Part 2(Importing the comma delimited *.prn file into an Excel spreadsheet):
1)Open Excel(I’m using Excel from Office 2000, so yours might be slightly different)
2)Open Your_File_Name.prn from your desktop.
3)Choose "Delimited" from the "Text Import Wizard" Pop Up Window.("Start import at row:" = 1 and "File origin" = Windows by default)
4)Choose "Next".
5)Only check the "Comma" box under the "Delimiters" section.(Nothing else should be checked!)
6)Choose "Finished".(Don't worry about the next step, just choose "Finished")

Your data is now sorted in an open Excel spreadsheet. The first 2-columns and some of the rows are usually empty. Now it depends on what you want to graph and how good you are with Excel. Excel does NOT like me, so don't expect me to give you too many pointers. Just mess around with it till you get something useful.

Part 3(One of MANY different ways to graphically view log data):
First, there are two columns for each variable(RPM, TPS, IAT, etc..). The LEFT column is the time stamp, ET(h:m:s), and the RIGHT is the variables name such as, RPM(rpm).

Second, you should delete ANY holes(blank spots) in the columns your about to graph. For example, if I choose RPM, I have to scroll down the RPM column and delete the blank cells in both the ET and RPM column(DELETE as pairs or you'll change the data!). You don't want these blank cells, because they will end up as zeros(invalid points) in your graph. Just highlight both empty cells, right click, select delete, and choose ok. Do this for any columns you plan on graphing.

Example(CRUDE!) to show how to graph 2-variables, RPM and SPKAD, on the SAME chart(RPM = Revolutions Per Minute and SPKAD = Spark Advance in degrees):
1)Choose Insert->Chart from the drop down menus.
2)Choose the "Custom Types" Tab from the Pop-Up Window.
3)Choose "Lines on 2 Axis" actually Microdork spelled it Axes.
4)Choose the "Series" Tab from the Pop-Up Window.
5)There should NOT be anything listed in the "Series" window, if there is, select it and chose "Remove". Otherwise, it will screw your graph up.
6)Now choose "Add" to add your first series(column).
7)Click in the "Name" field and type RPM.
8)Click on the mini Excel Icon next to the "Values" field.
A "Source Data - Values:" window appears and now your at your spreadsheet.
9)Click on the first RPM numerical value(NOT the column header) in the RPM column and drag the stretchy box to include all the RPM values listed.
10)Click on the mini Excel Icon of the "Source Data - Values:" window and your back to your "Soure Data" window.
11)Click on the mini Excel Icon next to the "Category (X) axis labels:" field.
A "Source Data - Category (X) axis labels:" window appears and now your at your spreadsheet.
12)Click on the first ET numerical value(NOT the column header) in the ET column to the LEFT of the RPM column and drag the stretchy box to include all the ET values listed.
13)Click on the mini Excel Icon of the "Source Data - Category (X) axis labels:" window and your back to your "Soure Data" window.

14)Repeat Steps 6) - 10) for SPKAD .
15)Click on the mini Excel Icon next to the "Second category (X) axis labels:" field.
A "Source Data – Second Category (X) axis labels:" window appears and now your at your spreadsheet.
16)Click on the first ET numerical value(NOT the column header) in the ET column to the LEFT of the SPKAD column and drag the stretchy box to include all the ET values listed.
17)Click on the mini Excel Icon of the "Source Data – Secondary Category (X) axis labels:" window and your back to your "Soure Data" window.

Optional Steps(Helps to clarify data)
1)Click “Next”.
2)Add RPM vs. SPKAD in the “Chart title:” field.
3)Add Elapsed Time(h:m:s) in the “Category (X) axis:” field.
4)Add RPM(rpm) in the “Value (Y) axis:” field.
5)Leave “Second category (X) axis:” field blank.
6)Add SPKAD(degrees) in the “Second value (Y) axis:” field.

18)Click “Next”.
19)Choose “As new sheet”.
20)Click “Finish”.

Questions&Answers: Thread 1 Thread 2

How to install SMC STS on 00-01 w/o removing cat

00-01 SMC STS w/o removing the Cat~!
I believe this got deleted, so I'll post it up again

Thanks to Champs Tech NYC, for use of facilities.
Angel R.
Richie P.
Hogan J.

Victim's Car: ToyLet 902

3/8" Air Gun or Long Handle Rachet
3/8" 10mm Socket
3/8" 12mm Socket
3/8" 14mm Flex Joint Socket
3/8" 14" extension
Philips head Screwdriver
Slotted Screwdriver

#1 PUT CAR INTO 4th GEAR~!~!~!~!~!~!

Shift **** removal:
Pull down boot, use Vise Grips to clamp on to the shifter.
Use Channel Lock Pliers, and a shop rag. Wrap the shop rag around the shift ****, and use the Channel Lock Pliers, and twist left to loosen.(Righty Tighty,Lefty Loosen..)
Remove Shift ****, you will need to use the Channel Lock to turn the shift **** since it is very stubborn to come off.

Remove shifter console by pulling up on the edges of where the shift boot is facing the cup holders.
Open Ash tray, and remove, there is a screw beneathe it and remove it.
The shifter console should be able to be pulled out and freed using a pull towards you and lift the end of where the cup holders are.
Move to passenger side.

Remove the (8) 12mm Bolts so that the crossmember can be dropped that is covering (2) of the (5) 10mm bolts retaining the heatshield.
Move to heatshield out of the way.
Looking at the shifter mechanism, remove the rear(most) bolt that retains the shifter's "axis point." 14mm 3/8" Gun w/ 14" extension and "flex" 3/8" 14mm socket.
Remove the 13mm Nut and bolt that retains the shifter linkage to the shifter unit.
Pull down on the shifter linkage and there is a spring attached to it, so becareful. Move it to the driver side of the car, allowing slack on the spring.
(2) 10mm nuts retain the shifter "pivot point", and remove those. The Shifter Unit is still retained by the Stabilizer Linkage.

With everything tucked away, and all retaining of the shifter are free, turn the shifter 90 degrees right.
If you had put the car into 4th gear in the beginning, this will be easy.
Push the Stabilizer Linkage up with the Shifter Unit, and push the bottom of the shifter unit up, so it will slip through the Stabilizer Link's Hole. Once it is through, the shifter is free.

You will be looking at the shifter mechanism, and see the pivot point and retainer seem to be one piece.
From the top of the Shifter Retainer, use a medium sized Flat Head Screwdriver, and start working in a circle along the inside of the Shifter Ball Retainer. After a few minutes the Shifter Ball Retainer, and Shifter unit will pop through.

Adjust the SMC to desired height, and throw.(All the way up on ToyLet's Car.)
Lube the Shifter Ball Retainer.
Place Shifter Retainer on top of Stabilizer Linkage. No nuts yet.
Place STS up the Stabilizer Linkage Hole.
The STS Ball will pass through the Stabilizer Linkage hole.
Take Shifter Ball Retainer, and "wrap" around the STS Ball.
Had you lubed the Shifter Ball Retainer on the outside, it should slide into the Shifter Retainer w/o a problem. Wipe off excess grease.
(2) 10mm Retaining nuts, and bolt down the Shifter retainer.
Now that the Stabilizer Link and the STS are in place, return the Shift Linkage to the bottom of your newly installed STS.(Please remember to use SMC's Included Hardware.) 13mm Nut and Bolt.
Push Shifter unit up to re-install the rear "Axis Point" 14mm retaining bolt.

If you aren't too tired, or you're frustrated on how much of a task this was, take a hammer, and make a "channel" down the middle for the STS which will probably be lower than your Stock one.
Reinstall (5) 10mm bolts.

Reinstall Crossmember (8) 12mm bolts.
Drop the car down, and play with your STS.
If will be very stiff, give it about 10-15 minutes of pretending to be some lunatic who just stole the car, and beat on the STS for a while.
After you're done w/ your "session".....go have some fun w/ powershifting, and hell-toe downshifting, double clutching.

Credit: yo_its_ok, ChimpDj aka Hogan

Installing front wheel studs

For a pic of what studs look like.. Click Here

Installation Instructions:
To install studs you have to take off caliper (2 bolts in back 14mm). Take out both brake pads. Take off bracket that caliper was attached to (2 big 19mm bolts behind rotor). Slide rotor off to see plate that studs are attached to. Hammer out stud that you want to replace. Stud will come out from behind plate (I found it better to replace all 5 b/c mine didn't look good, some had ridges that were missing). Once you hammer out the stud, you will have to put car in neutral with e-brake on so you can turn plate. There is a piece of metal behind the plate(which I believe is a dust cover. Best way to describe it is that it is a half circle that has a small circle on the other half. The small circle is where you can pull the stud out at. So you have to turn each one to this small circle, take out old stud and install new one. I sprayed WD40 into each hole that stud goes into before I installed new ones. You will need to hammer the new one in. The edge of the small circle will get bent when you hammer. Once your done you can use the back of hammer to bend it back. Once all studs are in put rotor back on, caliper bracket, brake pads, then caliper. Before you mount wheel you can use antiseize on studs to help prevent studs from breaking again..

02-03 Urethane Motor Mount Swap

This install guide only applies to the 2002 6-Speed Maxima. Although these directions may apply to other models, I do not have experience with any other model. Author is not responsible for installation woes - perform this install at your risk.

Homemade Front and Rear Urethane Motor Mounts using 3M Windo-Weld

1.Unless you can afford 3-4 days of downtime, get new or used front and rear motor mounts.
2.Drill a hole into the center of both of the mounts just below the center bolt. You may want to drill two holes so that it’s easier to get the Windo-Weld in there. Do the same to the pocket above the center bolt.
3.Drain all liquid that is contained in there.
4.Remove as much of the loose rubber on the top half of the mount that you can. Do not remove any of the bottom half (you should only have a hole or 2)
5.Once the mounts are stripped of all loose rubber (I only stripped the loose rubber on the rear) and completely drained, get some brake cleaner and clean the mounts up. You want them as dry as possible.
6.Inject the mounts with as much Windo-Weld as possible. The stuff is thick and hard to get out – but keep filling the top half and the hole in the bottom until there is no more room to add more.
7.Use a putty knife to smooth out as much as possible. Try to remove any air pockets if you can.
8.Let them dry for about 3 days (I did it on Weds and installed them on Saturday).
9.I found that putting them in the oven on low heat (~100 degrees F) worked wonders for hardening them up.

Changing the Front and Rear Motor Mounts for 2k2 6-Speed
Tools needed:
Breaker Bar
Torque Wrench
17mm socket
6” Extension (for the 2 rear center member bolts)

1.Jack up the car by placing the floor jack at the jack point on the center member (page GI-46 in ESM) and putting jack stands on the side jack points.
2.Once the car is jacked up by the jack stands, place the floor jack under the transmission housing close to the center member. Only jack it up until you see the transmission start to rise. DO NOT JACK IT UP ANY HIGHER. You are only looking to remove pressure from the motor mount bolts.
3.Remove the front splashguards if you have them and spray all motor mount bolts with some WD-40 or equivalent.
4.Start to loosen (only loosen – do not take them out) the 2 bolts that are connecting the rear mount to the center member. Do the same for the front mount. *Unlike 4th gen Maximas; you are able to reach all motor mount bolts from under the car. *
5.Remove the center bolt going through the motor mount in the font and rear. You may need to adjust how high you have the floor jack to insure the bolts slide out easily.
6.Once you have both motor mount bolts removed, the center member can now be lowered. To do this, you simply need to take out the 2 bolts in the back and the 2 bolts in the front that hold the center member to the car.
7.Now you should have the center member removed with both mounts still connected. Simply remove the mounts from the center member.
8.Now you are ready to attach the new mounts. Attach the rear mount first and torque the 2 bolts to 70ft-lbs (page EM-60 is a good reference). You will see that it is very difficult to torque the rear bolts down with the center member in place due to the tight space on the passenger side of the motor mount (exhaust in the way).
9.Do the same with front except do not torque the bolts down. You may need the few mm of play to fit it up to the motor.
10.With the rear mount completely attached and the front mount attached fairly snug, put the cross member back into place with the rubber disc on the passenger side inside of the mounting bracket attached to the motor. It helps if you start the front and rear center member bolts just enough to hold the member up.
11.Line up and install your center motor mount bolts and torque them to 70ft-lbs.
12.Once your front motor mount bolt is secure, go ahead and torque the 2 bolts that hold the mount to the center member down to 70ft-lbs.
13.After all motor mount bolts are torqued to 70ft-lbs – you are ready to torque the center member bolts to 70ft-lbs.
14.Once all bolts are torqued to spec – you can remove the jack holding the transmission
15.Have a beer – and check out the new mounts and reduced wheel hop!!


How To install INJEN intake:

How To install UR UDP:

How To install MT-90 for MANUAL transmission:

More UDP information

I installed a prototype ASP underdrive and here are some instructions I wrote for the job along with the belt lengths I used on my 2K2. If I had it to do again it would be a piece of cake!

1. If a lift if not available jack car up sufficiently to perform work under car. Use jack stands for safety.

2. Remove front passenger wheel and tire.

3. Remove passenger side plastic splash guard for easy access to pulley.

4. Loosen 12 mm locking bolt on power steering adjuster. Head of bolt is facing toward inner fender well, perpendicular to adjuster bolt and just to the rear of power steering pulley. Access to this bolt is best from under car.

5. Loosen 14 mm power steering pump rotator bolt on engine side of pump. It is accessible behind rear precat with a swivel or series of swivels and long extension from center of vehicle. The oil line to the oil filter is directly in line with this bolt.

6. Turn 12 mm adjuster bolt clockwise, as in tightening, to loosen belt. This bolt faces towards the ground and is located on bottom of adjuster. Use a long extension and swivel for access.

7. Loosen 14 mm ac/alternator tensioner pulley bolt. This bolt is in the center of the pulley and holds the pulley to the tensioner bracket. With bolt loose tensioner pulley is free to slide up and down on bracket within the limits of the 14 mm adjuster hex bolt. Turn 14 mm adjuster bolt counter clockwise to loosen belt and clockwise to tighten.

8. With both tensioners in the loose belt position, remove both belts.

9. Use a pneumatic impact wrench remove 19 mm center bolt holding crank pulley to shaft. Pulley is free to remove.

10. Use motor oil to lubricate ASP underdrive crank pulley seal ring on pulley hub. This insures lubrication to the crank seal when installed. Install pulley by hand locating keyway groove to key. Insure that pulley bottoms out on the crank shaft.

11. Reinstall crank bolt and torque to 140 ft/lbs. Locktite 242 thread sealer is recommended on threads.

12. For ease of belt installation, adjust both belt tensioners to insure plenty of free play to belt. Install Gates belt part number K040292 (or equivalent) on power steering and K060408 on ac/alternator. Insure both belts are properly positioned in grooves in all pulleys.

(I'm guessing on this one, I just tighten it until it felt right to me. Might have to refer to shop manual for belt tightening)
13. Tighten belts until belt has 1/4" movement at center of belt. Do not over tighten. Remember the power steering pump 12 mm bolt turns counter clockwise, as in loosening, to tighten belt.

14. Reinstall splash guard and wheel.


(aka SS Grill ; aka stillen grill that they sell on their site for 00-01 maxima) OVER OEM GRILL is now on my webpage @ www.cardomain.com/id/kpazzo6 (page 7)

02-03 reverse indiglow gauge install

Tools needed:
Screw driver
Wire tap or wire splices
Electrical tape

Parts come with the reverse indiglow gauges
-One white gauge face
-Converter with dimmer and color switch

1- Unscrew 2 screws at the top of the dashboard inside where the instrument cluster is.

2- Pull out the plastic that is around the instrument cluster that is holding in the gauge cluster into the car (need some strength at this part)... after pulling this out you will have to disconect the dimmer switch and mirror plugs from behind it.

3- You will see 3 screws are holding the cluster, unscrew those. Take out the cluster and unplug 3 plugs behind it.

4- The clear plastic cover is attached to the cluster with maybe 10 little snaps all around the whole thing... just release them.

5- Detach the gauge divider, u will see how to detach it right away when u see it

6- THIS IS THE HARDEST PART, YOU MIGHT BREAK YOUR NEEDLES IF YOU DO NOT BE EXTRA CAREFUL WHEN DOING THIS!! Pull out 4 needle stoppers (Fuel, MPH, RPM, and Temp) Slide the new gauge on the old gauge. The MPG and RPM needles are hard to slide in, the trick for doing this is try to slide the needles holes underneath all the needles first (make sure ur fuel and temp needles are already slide in), make your MPH and RPM needles point up and carefully pull down the new gauge until the end of the MPH and RPM needles to get in, then pull the gauge up again to the original position. Put back the needle stoppers just simply press them down

7-Do step 5,4,3 inversely to put the cluster back to the car

8-There are 4 little plugs from the converter, connect whatever u want to the new gauge

9-Use the wire tap or wire splices and tab the red wire from the converter with the green-red wire from the dimmer switch plug. Tab the black wire from the converter with the black wire on the dimmer switch plug. Test it and see if the gauge lights up. Wrap the electrical tape on the wire taps.

10-Now try to find a good spot to install the new gauge's dimmer and color switch whereever you feel confertable

11-Do step 2 and 1 inversely to put the plastic surrounding back and you are done.

HOW-TO on installing Clear LED Brake Light on OEM Spoiler.

Check out page 8 @ my homepage: www.cardomain.com/id/kpazzo6

How-To Remove OEM Stereo and/or Install FM Modulator to OEM Stereo is Done. Check out my homepage: www.cardomain.com/id/kpazzo6 (page 10)

Pads and rotors

My notes from rotor and brake pad swap without disconnecting brake lines or bleeding brakes.

Brake Install Notes:

  • Jack & Jack Stands
  • Impact Wrench or Lug Nut Wrench
  • 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets & ratchet
  • C-Clamp
  • Rear Piston Compression Tool
  • Mechanics Grease or Anti-Seize Grease
  • Brake Cleaner
  • Rubber Mallet

  1. Put the car up on jack stands and remove the front wheels.
  2. Remove the bolts holding the upper piece of the caliper on...14mm...these came off without any effort...slide the caliper off and hang it on the coil of the spring.
  3. Remove the brake pads...they pop right off...pay attention to the way they are seated.
  4. Remove bolts holding the lower piece of the caliper on...19mm...these require some elbow grease to remove, but I did not need any liquid wrench or a breaker bar...slide the second caliper piece off and set aside.
  5. Remove the rotor...requires some rocking and tapping to remove...my stock rotors did NOT have a bolt hole easy removal so I did some light tapping on the back side with a mallet as I turned the rotor.
  6. Install new rotor...clean up the wheel hub first and rub some grease around the hub to prevent the new rotor from rusting onto the hub like the stock one.
  7. Reinstall lower piece of caliper...clean it up first to remove all the brake dust...tighten up 19mm bolts good and tight.
  8. Install new brake pads...ensure that you remove the backing plates off the old pads and install them to the new pads.
  9. Compress the piston on the upper piece of the caliper...loosen cap on the brake fluid resevoir by the driver's side strut tower in the engine bay to make piston compression possible...use a clamp and equally distribute pressure as you compress...watch for brake fluid overflow.
  10. Reinstall upper piece of the caliper...clean it up first to remove all the brake dust...tighten up the 14mm bolts marginally (remember how easy they were to remove).

You're all done. Differences for the rears:
  • You must remove the 14mm bolt holding the mount for the emergency brake cable to get the upper part of the caliper off...underneath the caliper.
  • Lower piece of caliper is held on by 17mm bolts instead of the 19mm on the front.
  • Piston needs to be turned clockwise to be compressed...I suppose you could use pliers, but you can buy a small piston compression tool which hooks on to a ratchet and makes life really easy...the one they sell at Sears has a piston pattern which fits the rear calipers on the Maxima.
  • Make sure you hook the emergency brake cable onto the spring mechanism before reinstalling the upper caliper piece as it will be hard to hook back on after the caliper is assembled.

Quaife install and differential bearings

INSTALL(Credit JAY25):

Shortcut(Credit: ericdwong):

Great tranny news- if rebuilding/swapping differential BIG short cut
OK Brian ran this by me last night and today as I was pulling the Quaife I decided to try this. SO- this goes for anyone replacing diffy bearings or the differential all together (quaife). Instead of dissassembling the ENTIRE freaking transmission which can take anywhere between an hour or longer, while you can skip ALL of that.

For those familiar in the tranny this is all you gotta do: Take the outer case off the tranny. Once inside, remove the speed sensor. Turn the tranny to its side and pull on the input and output shafts, to give them enough play. Theres probbaly 1/4" to 1/8" play but its enough. Simply grab a hold of the Quaife/open differential and pull and it comes right out. NO MORE TAKING APART AND REASSEMBLING THE ENTIRE TRANSMISSION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Oh yeah, and my Quaife will be for sale soon, complete with speedo gear, final drive gear and 2 almost new bearings.

So this also means- if you need your diffy bearings changed and a tranny shop wants to charge you 10 hours of "dissassembly labor" tell them they are FOS.
Start removal, re-grease, and install

Just a disclaimer....I am not responsible for any mechanical, electrical, or other damage resulting from following these directions. This is at your own accord.

Start Removal/Installation & Re-greasing:

Estimated Time: 1.5 hours

Tools Needed:

--Metric sockets: 10MM, 12MM, 14MM, & 17MM (deep sockets)
--3/8” (recommended due to tight space) or 1/2” drive with small extension.
--Philips head screwdriver
--Hi-temp multi-lube silicone grease
--Brake or carburetor cleaner
--Nissan ESM or FSM (not required, but highly recommended, look at page SC-19)

All steps consider person at the front of the car facing the engine bay.

Part I: Start removal

Step 1: Disconnect negative battery terminal.

Step 2: Remove intake assembly. (I suggest removing everything up to the throttle body, you will need the room.

Step 3: Detach harness protector that is above the starter and to the left of the battery. This is quite difficult to do without breaking. I ended up breaking mine, but it wasn’t that big of a deal to me because I didn’t feel the need to have the harness clamped in. But if you want to remove without breaking take your time and be patient, you have to separate the protector clip from the mounting bracket.

Step 4: Disconnect starter harness connecting the start solenoid to the power supply wire using a 12MM socket or open ended wrench.

Step 5: Loosen upper 14MM bolt with a deep 14MM socket and 3/8” or 1/2" drive. Requires some force to be removed.

Step 6: Loosen and remove lower 17MM bolt with deep 17MM socket or a 17MM socket and extension. This requires a lot of force to remove.

Step 7: Pull starter away from engine at a slight downward and away angle. This requires some maneuvering to remove from the engine as there is little room to work with. Removal of the battery may help in this situation, but I didn’t end up having to remove the battery.

Part II: Disassembly & Cleanup of the Starter

Step 1: Using brake or carburetor cleaner clean the outside housing of the starter and the solenoid.

Step 2: Remove the solenoid using a 10MM socket on the two 10MM bolts. Loosen the top bolt connecting the power supply cord. Carefully remove the solenoid from the starter. Keep a close track on the parts as to how they came off and where they go. These parts do not need to be re-lubed unless you have excessive mileage (probably 75K or more). Mine did not require to be re-lubed, the grease was still viscous and not hardened.

Step 3: Remove the rear cover from the starter using a Phillips head screwdriver on the two screws. You might notice a lot of copper filing and dried grease in the cover. This should be cleaned.

Step 4: Remove the two 10MM Through-bolts.

Step 5: Carefully pull apart the upper assembly containing the charging elements of the starter. This includes the brush assembly, armature assembly, yoke assembly, and center bracket. Clean the yoke assembly and center bracket with brake or carburetor cleaner. The brush assembly and armature assembly can be cleaned with compressed air, or stiff bristle brush. Keep track of the parts and how they were removed.

Step 6: Remove the internal gear, packing, and planetary gear. These need to be cleaned and re-greased with high temperature grease.

Step 7: The rest of the starter should come out basically as one piece. I would suggest leaving it as is, except for re-greasing the pinion shaft as much as you can. The intricate parts such as the rings requires special tools and in my opinion are not worth acquiring for this task.

Step 8: Clean gear case assembly.

Part III: Starter Assembly

Step 1: Assemble the starter. Keep a close track on the parts. I re-lubed the packing, planetary gears, and internal gear as I re-assembled the starter. Be sure to line up the holes in the center brackets, yoke assembly, and brush holder assembly. They need to be aligned so the Through-bolts can reach the bottom of the starter and be tightened.

Step 2: Replace the starter solenoid. Be sure to assemble all parts in the correct configuration!

Step 3: Tighten all bolts. From the ESM there are torque specifications, but I tightened all bolts finger tight and then 1/4 turn.

Part IV: Starter Installation

Step 1: Put start back in place using the reverse order of removal instructions. Be sure to finger tighten all bolts before tightening them down all the way!! Use the deep sockets to get the bolts started, unless you have small hands and can start the bolts without the sockets. Finger tighten 14MM, 17MM, and 12MM bolts. Tighten 12MM bolt connecting the power harness to ½ turn more than finger tight or per the required torque specification. The 14MM and 17MM bolts tighten with a large amount of force.

Step 2: Re-install harness protector.

Step 3: Re-install intake.

Step 4: Reconnect negative battery terminal.

Start the car and enjoy the whine free sound!

Stillen Aero Kit Install


Credit: 2maxguy

2002-2003 Nissan Maxima UDP Installation Instructions

Change color of ignition light

see page 12 of my homepage: www.cardomain.com/id/kpazzo6

Engine Compression Test

1. Remove Fuel Pump fuse and then started the car a few times to make sure all the excess fuel has been used (fuse located below the steering wheel to the left, you have to remove the panal to see the fuses)

2. Remove Fuel injector fuse, (located in the same panal as the other fuse, diagram of which fuse is what is on the otherside of the panal)

3. Remove all the spark plugs (check out the "installation / how to" thread for spark plug removal instructions), I don't really think it matters if you remove all of them or take them out one by one.

4. Screw in the compression guage to where your spark plug would normally sit in and crank the engine 5 times. (NOTE: make sure you crank the engine the EXACT same number of times as the other cylinders otherwise your reading will be off! Each extra crank you do, the pressure will go up higher) According to the manual your pressure should be at 185, 145 minimum with an exceptable difference of 14 between each cylinder.

Additional Notes: You can buy this kit at any regular auto store, i.e. Pep Boys, Kragen (I bought mines at Kragen), it was about $40 for the kit. The Kit comes with instructions but are kinda confusing and geared torward older cars. What I listed above are the exact steps I did to perform this test on my 5th gen Maxima.

MOMO shift **** and boot install

i originally wrote this for clipse, but thought it could be beneficial to everybody!

1)unscrew the stock shift **** (lefty loosey)
2)unbutton the top of the stock shift boot
3)carefully remove the trim piece surrounding the stock shift boot (jus' pry it off)
4)remove the trim piece from the shift boot, and slip it out (don't throw it away, you'll use it as your template for the new shift boot)
NOTE: before cutting, make sure you leave enough room so that you could shift through ALL gears (leather does NOT stretch)
5)using the stock shift boot, carefully cut the new momo boot to the right length leaving about 1/2inch extra, just in case (use something sharp like a utility knife for a clean cut)
6)use this same utility knife to cut the little holes to attach the boot to the stock trim piece
7)on top of the momo shift boot, there is a plastic ring inside the leather...turn the shift boot insdie out and carefully remove this plastic ring (making sure not to pull too hard that you would rip the seams)
8)after the ring is removed, turn the momo boot right-side-out
9)test fit the boot around the reverse lock ring (jus' slip it right over and it should fit snug, very snug)
10)now put the momo shift boot on the trim piece using the holes and lining them up with the tabs on the trim piece
11)slip it over the shifter to make sure you have it in the right way (test fit and shift through ALL gears)
NOTE: before using the super glue, make sure everything is lined up first and that the momo emblem on the shift boot faces you!!
12)once you are confident it will fit, apply a small amt of super glue to the reverse lock ring (where the boot goes around, not your fingers!)
13)carefully put the trim piece back in place and secure with a rubber mallet ensuring there are no gaps between the trim piece and the leather
14)now, for the shift ****, slip the larger spring onto the threaded portion of the shift
15)place the shift **** on the shifter and center
16)tighten the allen screw on the back of the shift **** until the shift **** will not move

1)use a hairdryer (or heat gun, preferred) on the stock e-brake handle for approx 2-5 min (all areas of the handle must be hot/warm to the touch)
NOTE: be careful just how hard you pull and don't hit your hand on anything like the radio, steering wheel, etc!
2)PULL on the e-brake handle (if it's still too hard to remove, jus' use the blow dryer again)
3)that's all you have to remove
4)slip the momo boot over the e-brake
5)SLIP the momo boot into the rubber trim around the e-brake handle (remember, SLIP it in, you don't need to remove the rubber trim around the e-brake handle)
6)if you had a piece of rubber hose, you could slip it over the e-brake handle and test fit the momo handle, OR you could use thick string to wrap around the handle and then use tape to secure it (jus' remember to test fit the momo handle to make sure it doesn't move around!)
7)slip the rubber adapter piece into the e-brake handle
8)if you've got it snug enough, you'll have to PUSH (and i mean PUSH) the handle into place...if you're simply slipping it into place, add more string!
9)tighten the allen head screws (only three are needed, choose the long ones)
NOTE: there's a funny looking rubber squarish shaped thing that went around the momo e-brake handle....that won't be used
10)slip the e-brake boot over the e-brake handle and ensure all the allen head screws are covered, and that's it!

hope it helps! if there are anymore questions, jus' ask! sorry i couldn't post step-by-step pictures...


how-to and pics on tinting your taillights:


FSTB install

Here is my write-up for installing a Front Strut Tower Bar/Brace. (The link to the write-up mentioned on Page 4 didn't seem to work.) Installation is very easy and shouldn't take one more than 20 minutes.

Good luck. Peace.


A. Socket Wrench
B. Torque Wrench (set between 32 to 38 ft-lbs)
C. 14mm Socket (deep)

A. Additional tool(s) required by the maker of the FSTB
B. Rubber Mallet

1. Keep the car on level ground, pop open the hood, and look at your engine bay.
2. With the socket wrench and 14mm socket, remove the three gold nuts from each of the front strut towers. If the nuts will not come off easily, try using a rubber mallet to the wrench.
3. Test fit FSTB brackets over the tower bolts. The bolts are not equal distant from each other so each bracket can only go to a certain tower.
4. Put the gold nuts back on. Tighten them loosely.
5. Attach the FSTB to the brackets. Adjust distance/height accordingly and tighten the bar to the brackets with whatever size tool required by the maker of the FSTB.
6. With the torque wrench and 14mm socket, tighten the gold nuts to the correct torque. Nissan recommends 32 to 38 ft-lbs. Do not tighten more than that or you risk damage to the bolts.
7. Close the hood and start the car.
8. Run the windshield wiper fluid to be sure the FSTB is not impeding the flow of the fluid tubes under the hood.
9. Take the car out for a spin.

With some FSTBs, the driver-side bracket may not allow the Swirl Control/Valve Control/Vacuum Check Switch to clear. If this is the case, add the following steps between steps 3 and 4 above:

I. The Swirl Control/Valve Control/Vacuum Check Switch is held in place by a plastic clip attached to a metal bracket. Reach underneath the metal bracket and release the plastic clip.
II. Flip the Swirl Control/Valve Control/Vacuum Check Switch upside-down and attach the plastic clip from the underside of the metal bracket. This should not affect anything, and the clip should remain in place just fine although there is now almost no wire and tubing slack.
III. Now the Swirl Control/Valve Control/Vacuum Check Switch should be underneath the metal bracket instead of over it, allowing the driver-side FSTB bracket to fit.

For '02/'03 Maximas, there can sometimes be problems where the FSTB will not clear the intake manifold collector when the car is in reverse which will cause a knocking sound. If this is the case, add the following step between steps 2 and 3 above:

- Place a 3/8" or 10mm washer over each tower bolt.

- Most people will agree that the FSTB does not provide a night-and-day difference in performance. The bar is there to help reduce chassis flexing when the car corners and to improve steering response a bit. Most people combine this mod with a Rear Anti-Sway Bar (RSB), and it is this mod where one will feel the most difference. For the Maxima owner who doesn't plan on changing the stock springs, shocks, or struts, the FSTB and RSB combo provide a great and relatively inexpensive one-two-punch for suspension improvement.

- FTSB prices can range from $15.00 (generic on eBay) to $190.00 (Stillen) / $195.00 (Cattman). Depending on the make of the bars, they are constructed of either hollow aluminum (RaceSonic, Autobacs1, Bomz, etc.), solid aluminum (Otto, Aerospeed, Stillen), or titanium (Cattman). All the bars do the same thing, so the prices differ more for looks, not performance.

The above instructions are meant as an installation guide. I cannot and will not be held responsible for any damage or injury caused by the following of this write-up. Always be prepared with the proper equipment/tools and confidence before attempting maintenance, repairs, or modifications to your car. Safety first...urgency of everything else second.

Last edited by Puppetmaster; 01-11-2008 at 09:57 AM.
01SE02SER is offline  
Old 10-13-2001, 08:36 PM
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2K2 HIDs Alarm Fix

Here it is. For all of you people that have been trying to figure it out, ICE 2MaxGuy and I worked something like this out that will work great. No problems.


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Old 02-15-2002, 06:12 PM
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[b]Cluster Swap[/b]

This mod is for the 2000 GXE/GLE, concerning the swap of the gauge cluster to the SE cluster, the problem with doing this is that the circuit board in the cluster holds the true mileage, this How To will show you how to switch circuit-boards.


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Old 03-06-2002, 03:56 PM
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FSTB Visual Installation Instructions

It's hosted on my local machine right now while the server is in it's transition phase so don't expect zippy performance.

5th Gen. Maxima FSTB Visual Installation Instructions

Search Engine keywords: FSTB Front Strut Tower Bar Install Installation Instructions Photo Pictures
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Old 05-14-2002, 06:20 AM
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MoMo e-brake installation guide

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Old 05-22-2002, 10:41 AM
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Vehicle Wiring Sheets - 1997-2003

Just updated this with the new link.
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Old 07-05-2002, 05:49 PM
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How-to replace spark plugs

courtesy of Tanman and dba1999us

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Old 07-08-2002, 12:18 PM
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UDP Install

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Old 07-25-2002, 10:58 PM
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Re: How-to replace spark plugs

Originally posted by soundmike
courtesy of Tanman and dba1999us

The Nissan owner's manual also has a brief description of how to change the spark plugs. Not very detailed, but it highlights some parts that are hard to see in the photos.
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Old 08-09-2002, 03:57 PM
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2002 hid wiring; no alarm flash, no hi ind flash

I am in the middle of installing 2002 hid lights in my 2000 Maxima. I have them all wired up, tested, and ready to go. I have attached the wiring diagram I came up with for anyone who is interested:


I have already tested them in this configuration. The xenon lights DO NOT flash when you hit the locks on your remote. The only lights that flash are the turn signal lights. (I still dont understand how people had that problem.)

Also, the other problem of the hi beam indicator flashing has not been the case. Since I have the hi and lo wired just like the H4 lights, there is no difference. The indicator comes on when you turn on the hi beams. I know some other people had them wired so the xenon would stay on with hi beams. I could be mistaken, but I believe that is against DOT regulations. In this configuration, the xenon goes off when you toggle the hi beam. Just like on the H4 and other cars with separate hi/lo bulbs.

Jimmy Hauser
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Old 10-01-2002, 09:22 AM
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Re: Russ2kSE's Instructions on Rewiring your Fogs with pictures

Originally posted by Y2KevSE
Thank you for you help on the fog lights... it turned out great. But one small problem on the 02se the wire that you need to splice into is the (Red & Yellow not the red and blue the wire is on the right side of the lights) but other than that it was great Thank You
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Old 10-29-2002, 01:55 PM
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Infinity BassLink/LC Remote, RF 8-gauge wiring, On/Off toggle switch

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Old 11-05-2002, 07:44 PM
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Re: Re: Russ2kSE's Instructions on Rewiring your Fogs with pictures

Originally posted by Mike Evans
Thank you for you help on the fog lights... it turned out great. But one small problem on the 02se the wire that you need to splice into is the (Red & Yellow not the red and blue the wire is on the right side of the lights) but other than that it was great Thank You
Just saw your post. That was my 2K2 and my pic in Russ's writeup.
That is the wire for the relay. What is your production date. I wonder if if changed midway through production. My 2K2 date is 7/01.
If you look closely, there is no red/yellow wire in my relay there.

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Old 11-07-2002, 11:12 PM
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Audtatious's Addco RSB

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Old 11-13-2002, 04:32 PM
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i have a 2kSE with bose, i just installed a Sony XAV-7W 7" in dash, with Sony 10 Disc changer, and a dvd/mp3/tv tuner, a Rockford 360.6 six-channel amp, Diamond Audio Components front and rear, and 10" JL Audio 10w3 in a sealed box. Not crazy but sounds perfect and blows the bose out of the water.
anyway i sold my bose system to a kid with a 2kgxe without the bose system. and helped him install it. basically i had to cut the bose harness out of my car and rebuild it the install it in his it was a nightmare if you dont have a bose from the factory all the wiring is different, its not just plug and play, and no one sells the harness not even the dealer. just put in a nice aftermarket and call it a day. by the way schocse makes a nice dash kit, it matches dash color and has a pocket or double din.
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Old 12-08-2002, 05:28 PM
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Replace foglight bulbs in '02-03's

This writeup is for replacing the foglight bulbs in a '02-03 Maxima which IS different than the '00-01's ( per reading Russ's writeup ).

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Old 01-12-2003, 12:20 AM
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How-to make custom headlights (AE)

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