nestor

anyway, i was driving on the highway today and the brake light and charge light went on simultaneously. i have plenty of brake fluid and my belt seems fine. my lights were on and the radio was blasting. the accessories still work fine, the starter works strong.

come on!

i think its that damn computer again. i had it replaced at like 10k and had to have it reset at around 36k. i replaced the engine coils at 70k (luckily under extended warranty) and had the spark plugs replaced as well. i'm not at 81k miles. no more warranty and i'm not happy about this.

btw, unless i ride my clutch i get little quiet knocks (i always used to drive "hoopties" and i'm very sensitive to these things) and i used to have that throttle cut off problem in first gear (no more since they did the computer (ecu?) at 10k).

earlier, i had that foolish "enviro" engine cleaning when i got my engine coils and spark plugs replaced. a thousand mile later, i'd have to hit the throttle when i started ala 80s american car otherwise it would stall out. so i had to get "throttle body work" for like $160. things work kind of fine. (~71k)

currently (81K), every now and then the rpms "dip" upon start up and after semi hard braking - like before i got that "throttle body work". could it be my sunoco gas??

in addition, my air conditioner makes this subtle noise like there's a leaf stuck in the vent. (started after my coil/plug/flush work @ 70k) i hate that! don't want to go back to the dealer to be charged another 200 bux!!!!!!!

finally - is tsb work performed for free out of warranty? (sorry) oh, and was there a tsb for paint chips?

i still love my melissa lane! hail the vq engine.

2000 se max 5 spd

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

Your alternator has failed, if the battery is in good shape then you will be able to drive it for like around 30 min max with the lights on and no other accessories. Turn off ur radio, and anything that draws power (radar detectors, lights, fans) and drive it like that to the dealer, but be prepared for a 400 dollar bill for a new Nissan alternator.

fatboyp

may as well replace the battery as well. that's usually the next thing to go after the alternator. you don't want to get stuck!

Nissan SE-R

Definitely alternator.

nestor

okay -

i would have been more diligent if i checked back at these forums before i drove to work this morning, but, since my post, i have started the car three times, drove 20 minutes from my parent's house to my apt., looked for parking for another 15 min., and then again to work which is an hour away through both new york city (stop and go) and an expressway (including excess speeds and heavy braking at times), all with the radio blasting, the heat on, and will my cell phone recharger plugged in.

i did notice last night that the radio did not lose any bass response when i turned the car off, which leads me to believe that its operating solely on the battery (aka alternator). i dont understand why, despite my morning commute, the car didn't go dead though...

400 bux, right in time for christmas too... and i just switched jobs and locale which means that i'm going to have to "learn" a new dealer/service group... damn.

oh - i still think this may be an ecu issue - for the better for once... i noticed that my knocking problem during shifting is gone though. i still shift at really low rpms - sometimes lower than the manual suggests (i know thats bad) - i think i drive this way because ive driven automatics for so long that i try to "emulate" them.