maximagray

Sup guys its me again. Anyways i was thinking is it actually worth the money for a optima battery???? I do have 2 12's subs and a head unit and radar detector and a charger for my cell and a charger for my ipod and i got 58,000 miles on my max with the 1st stock battery. Im ah lil worried that my battery is gonna die soon especially with all the lil gadgets. Is it time to change???? And also for those with the optimas what color top did u guys get cus i heard lots of problems of the positive and negative chords being hard to reach to the terminals. (And i mean a optima battery which u dont need to pull the chords to reach) And how much did u guys get your optimas for???? Help me out guys... peace

claudiusmaximas

i heard optimas are a good investment. i'll get one when my battery dies out but unless you think your battery's dying from overworking then i wouldn't worry about it for now. of course you can get a replacement

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

Get the Yellow Top! It's about $149.00. The Red Top is about $100.00.

joebangaa

iTrader: (3)

optima=craptima

how could anyone even defend this no good product??

03tgtmaxima

it would be nice if you explained your self a little

my boy has the redtop in his S-10 and he run's 2 fosgate subs, i cant remember the model's, and a 500watt amp he pushes something like 150 watts rms per chanel he was telling me this the other night. no capasitor and no light flicker in his older s10 he has nothing except a deck and speakers and he has a blue top and it mad the light brighter and smoothed out his idle.


costco has some of the best prices from what i have seen if you can find a red top for cheaper than 97 let me know and i will pick one up

joebangaa

iTrader: (3)

capacitor=no dimmage help

battery=not the current you're getting unless your car's off

deck+speakers off h/u power+150x2 watt amp= imo no dimmage anyways unless his car is an ultrapos

try having the speakers amped and a sub amp about 3x more powerful and tell me if a battery and/or cap works, it won't do diddly. if he isn't getting dimming now, he wouldnt have had it with a new regular battery (like interstate or something). go to a car audio forum, the .org audio forum is crap

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

I'm running a 440 watt McIntosh and a PPI 1800 with a cap on the PPI and the Optima Yellow top keeps on pumpin' out the juice without any dimming problems on the lighting system. My old stock battery couldn't do this. However, the stock battery died soon after so it may have been weak to start.

ibag8rfan

iTrader: (4)

my 2400 watt amp dims my lights severely with the stock battery. I mean interior lights and headlights. Very noticeable almost like im going from high beam to low beam. I think a high output alternator would remedy the problem more than a new battery, although I do think I am killing my battery fast.

theMax

The yellow top is a deep cycle and is good if you use power while your car is not running.

The red top is a good all around battery. I know a few people and they love their red tops, cars that sat for months started right up.

I agree that a cap. and alternator is better if you need lots of Amps while running, but optima makes a long lasting no maintenance battery.

PearlWhtMaX2000

iTrader: (5)

so yellow top is better or Red? i cant remember.

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

I just got a yellow top 34 series in my Maxima, it cranks soo fast in the morning, that even a brand new 6th gen Maxima aint cranking this fast. 35 series is the direct fit for our cars. I recomend Remy Battery on Ebay, I got my battery shipped to me in like 2 days, and customer service is great. 34 battery requires some modifications to make it fit, its a little bit stronger than the 35 series. I highly recomend Optima, and like any car battery from any manufacturer- there are some bad ones in the mix.

joebangaa

iTrader: (3)

okokok an upgraded battery is ONLY good for cold starts. if you live in an area where your car has trouble starting when it's cold. if you live in places where our weather is the shiznat, like ca, fl, hi, it isn't an issue. for systems, it doesn't do ANYTHING unless you go to comps where you can't run your electrical system, end of story. i'm serious, i'll paypal you money if i'm wrong. upgraded battery is a waste of money for a system

PTNR

iTrader: (2)

in cases where your system pulls a lot of immediate current, it is possible to pull more power than readily available from your alternator . in such a case, the battery would lend its power to the sytem to provide current for the excessive draw. if your battery is junk in the above senario you will get dimming lights. if you have a good battery, the chance of this happening is much less and if you have a deep cycle battery, the battery won't be killed quickly because it is designed to lose charge regularly, (also good for playing music with car off). Your alternator, on the other hand, is going to eventually fry from having to keep up with the system and constantly recharging the battery.

that being said, if you are pulling so much current that you are overtaxing your alternator, you should get a heavy duty alternator to fix the problem and not just a battery, but a battery could help if your on the border with your current draw.

PTNR

iTrader: (2)

btw... what makes you think your battery is bad? have it checked out professionally. i have seen stock batteries last for 10 years with no problems. it just depends what kind of use or abuse they see. if you do choose to get a yellow top, i agree with blackbirdvq. get the D35 from Remy battery for around $110 and it will fit with no modifications.

joebangaa

iTrader: (3)

big 3 and ho alt stop dimming, not a deep cycle batt, i'm not gonna continue with this stupid thread

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

I live in frosty climate, Chicago. We have some pretty cold winters and lately my starter was going out due to my very old battery. I did a battery test on it with a tester at work, and it didn't pass the Cold cranking amp part of it. I decided to just get a yellow top 34 series, just to find out it wasn't going to be a direct fit. But I made it work alright. **** cranks so good that I don't know why I haven't done the battery upgrade before. My starter hasn't given me ANY trouble since the install of the battery, and VQ starters go out ALOT. It saved me 170 bux for a new starter from Nissan- for now atleast. My system is pretty small currently. I need to send out my amps to get repaired to Alpine.

Virus

iTrader: (1)

Red top here and I absolutely love it. Car starts very easily on cold days. Of course any decent battery will

E55AMG2

iTrader: (4)

I seriously think you need to calm down first.

Second, deep cycle batteries do serve a purpose. They are meant for people who run their sound systems/accessories with the vehicle off. No matter what alternator or capacitor you have, the system wont run if the battery is dead. Another thing, as any engineer will tell you, the better the quality of the electrical signal the better the sound quality. If your high end HU isnt getting the proper amperage, your sound quality will suffer greatly. You need to get your facts straight before you start.

03tgtmaxima

hey how did you get that pic next to the F-4 or is that an F-5 been so long since i have seen one and a while since a researched my planes

theMax

Its an F4, check out the link under the pic for more. I'm in the AF.

And to add to this thread, the redtop size is 75/35. I'm planning on geting one when my stock battery dies.

Ammi

iTrader: (26)

What kind of modification are we talking about here?

joebangaa

iTrader: (3)

i am calm but most people don't have their facts straight as you say. if the battery is dead uh...nothing will work lol, and the "quality" or strength of the signal is all determined by the alternator NOT the battery unless, of course as you've mentioned and i've said too, you're bumpin with the car off. having trouble starting isn't the audio systems' fault...i've been running 1340watts rms since i've owned the car and have no starting issues whatsoever. craptima batt=good for comps, cold weather, paperweight

woosh

ighettoboyi, can you explain why you think optima is crap?

thanks

joebangaa

iTrader: (3)

i've had over 5 friends that have invested in it with no improved results, anyone that knows anything on a caraudio forum can attest to this: for dimmage during normal use (engine on) a battery wont do antying

however, i'll admit, if a battery is constantly being discharged and charged beyond normal use, it will GREATLY shorten the life of it, but our stock batteries should be fine

E55AMG2

iTrader: (4)

The alternator does not engage until the load is too high for the battery there chief....better get on your game to play in here

SeaFoam2DMax

10 chars.

PearlWhtMaX2000

iTrader: (5)

so whats better red or yellow top??

looslip

iTrader: (3)

You're right some people don't have their facts straight. You!

jrod1014

iTrader: (2)

What do you think of re routing the battery to the trunk of the car. If I purchase a yellowtop or red top I might explore this. Are the optima batts heavier than stock? if so by how much... I've heard they are bricks...

theMax

Yellow, because it is a deep cycle battery, but red is usually good enough unless you run a stereo or something when your car is not running.

E55AMG2

iTrader: (4)

You will want to use a second battery, not re-route the stocker to the trunk. And yes, the bigger yellow tops are heavy. My D31A weighs ~62lbs.

spiromax

That depends on what you're doing with it. If all you need is a good reliable starting battery, and you use your car like a normal person (maybe charging a few personal electronics while you drive), then the red top is cheaper and should be fine.

The yellow top, being a deep cycle battery, is recommended for people who tend to charge and discharge the battery regularly. If you have a high-end audio system or if you run other high-drain accessories, especially if you do it with the car off, you should probably consider a yellow top.

joebangaa

iTrader: (3)

i dunno mang the last friend of mine to have owned one is running 3kw to his subs alone (2 15" brahmas) and he's gone through both batteries without any improvement whatsoever, running off stock alt and big 3. to be honest it's really not that bad (his electrical system)

car is 97 suburban

PTNR

iTrader: (2)

your friend needs a serious alternator upgrade. not the ones you get from the parts store either. to do it right he's gonna need to spend some big $$'s. you can't expect a stock charging system to work with that kind of system. he keeps blowing through batteries because like i said before, the alternator can't keep up with the power demands so the battery is trying to help and is getting killed in the process.

joebangaa

iTrader: (3)

yea of course he needs a ho alt but his stock battery isnt even doing badly at all

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

i have read that the yellow top 75/25 also is a direct fit???

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

bumppppppppppp

E55AMG2

iTrader: (4)

As long as the measurements and CCA are the same (or the same or better with regard to the CCA), it should work. This thread was dead, it is for good now.