Idle Air Problems - P0505
01-12-2005, 10:23 PM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 213
Idle Air Problems - P0505
I really hate to start another new thread, but I searched all over and couldn't find any related threads. So, here's what's happening, I really, really hope you guys can help:
Long story short, car is idling high and bucking. MAF malfuctioned on a long trip; I replaced it; problem still exists. Car is now throwing P0505 - Idle Control System Malfunction (slightly different wording than what the SES code thread reads).
Has anyone had these symptoms before? Any suggestions? The only thing I can think of is that I needed to do the Air Idle learning procedure, but I think my problems run a little deeper than that...
I'm about ready to take it to the dealer. This is driving me crazy!
Long story short, car is idling high and bucking. MAF malfuctioned on a long trip; I replaced it; problem still exists. Car is now throwing P0505 - Idle Control System Malfunction (slightly different wording than what the SES code thread reads).
Has anyone had these symptoms before? Any suggestions? The only thing I can think of is that I needed to do the Air Idle learning procedure, but I think my problems run a little deeper than that...
I'm about ready to take it to the dealer. This is driving me crazy!
01-17-2005, 02:34 PM
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 213
ugh, ok, update.
Took it 75 miles away to the dealer. $200 and 3 hours later they told me the EGI wiring harness has a break in it. There is a TSB for it (I talked them out of a hard copy), but it does NOT look like something I want to try myself.
...any pointers? I searched the org and only found links to the TSB PDF, not anyone who actually had this problem.
Took it 75 miles away to the dealer. $200 and 3 hours later they told me the EGI wiring harness has a break in it. There is a TSB for it (I talked them out of a hard copy), but it does NOT look like something I want to try myself.
...any pointers? I searched the org and only found links to the TSB PDF, not anyone who actually had this problem.
01-17-2005, 05:02 PM
#6
Originally Posted by zourtney
oh yeah, they said that this problem would be $400 to diagnose.
someone.... please??
someone.... please??
01-18-2005, 10:31 PM
#7
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 213
sorry i didn't give you a call, Dave B, I was busy. I guess I'm taking the car back to the dealer tomorrow. Whatever the problem is, it doesn't sound like something I want to waste my time finding... I have too much homework.
01-22-2005, 08:35 AM
#11
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 100
I have a similar problem right now. The car will start and idle fine on a cold engine but if I take it for a drive around the block and then shut the engine off, can't start it. Needle jumps to about 1100 rpm then just drops and it chokes unless I give it gas. If I let it cool off for a bit, it'll start again just fine. There are no codes from the ECU and SES light is not on. I thought it was the MAF so I ordered one from jerryromenissan.com but I haven't replaced it yet. Looking throught this thread I'm starting to worry that it may be the IACV. Does anyone have any recommendation? How much is the IACV anyways?
01-25-2005, 12:33 PM
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 28
Originally Posted by swaggy
jerryromenissan.com lists two parts under Idle Air Control Valve:
23781-38U10 - $231.82
23781-2Y012 - $217.55
Does anyone know which one is the right one for a 2001 Maxima?
23781-38U10 - $231.82
23781-2Y012 - $217.55
Does anyone know which one is the right one for a 2001 Maxima?
02-02-2005, 07:34 AM
#16
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 213
mine's STILL in the shop. They're putting in a new IAC valve, which they claim was backordered. I'm really starting to detest this dealership -- it's been two weeks today, and they've done nothing. Poor, poor business practice. I think i'd tow my car 300 miles home before I went to this place again...
02-02-2005, 11:25 AM
#17
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 104
zourtney, the dealer is changing the IAC valve or doing the EGI wiring harness TSB thingy???
please post every details on this when you have more, I have a problem too with my idle... and give us the TSB number while youre at it please.
I read that low voltage on battery wouldnt help the idle so you might want to check it out, and maybe cleaning the throttle body could be good, but i'm not sure about it since I havent tried it yet.
anyways heres a link for 4thgen throttle-body-cleaning, I think its the same for 5th
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/517
as for the IAC valve, I found this so far, but its 4th gen also... wonder if its the same for my 2000... help us zourtney!
please post every details on this when you have more, I have a problem too with my idle... and give us the TSB number while youre at it please.
I read that low voltage on battery wouldnt help the idle so you might want to check it out, and maybe cleaning the throttle body could be good, but i'm not sure about it since I havent tried it yet.
anyways heres a link for 4thgen throttle-body-cleaning, I think its the same for 5th
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/517
as for the IAC valve, I found this so far, but its 4th gen also... wonder if its the same for my 2000... help us zourtney!
IAC valve
How to clean IAC valve
Tools needed:
10 and 12 mm sockets
3 inch socket extension
universal joint (swivel pivot socket thing)
12-inch rachet (a short rachet may not work - need something to apply a lot of torque to loosen the bolts
Philip's screwdriver
rag
throttle body cleaner
1. Unplug the 4 connectors from the IAC assembly. Undo the hose that connects teh IAC to the intake assembly.
2. The metal bracket holding up the gray-colored connector is blocking one of the IAC mounting bolts. Using a 10mm socket, remove the bolt that holds the metal bracket. The bolt is just below the purple connector - you have to twist your head and crane your neck around to see the bolt.
3. Remove the 3 mounting bolts using the 12mm socket. The lowest bolt may require the Universal joint.
4. Pull out your IAC valve and clean it w/throttle body cleaner, rag, and old toothbrush.
You may even want to separate the plastic valve to clean it more thoroughly. Use a philip's head screwdriver, but make sure it is a snug fight. It's on there tight and if you don't have a good fitting screwdriver, you could ruin the screw head.
Reinstallation is just the reverse of these steps. It may be easier access to the IAC if you remove the whole air intake assembly, but it's not necessary.
How to adjust IACV -
Warm the engine up to operating temp.
Turn off the engine.
Disconnect the TPS.
Start the engine and adjust the idle speed using the stop screw on the throttle body to 650 RPM's.
Turn off the engine.
Reconnect the TPS and restart the engine.
If the IACV is working correctly your idle should be correct. If it's a bit low, try adjusting the screw on the IACV bypass to get your idle speed to ~700 in neutral with no load. (no load means no lights or A/C)
How to clean IAC valve
Tools needed:
10 and 12 mm sockets
3 inch socket extension
universal joint (swivel pivot socket thing)
12-inch rachet (a short rachet may not work - need something to apply a lot of torque to loosen the bolts
Philip's screwdriver
rag
throttle body cleaner
1. Unplug the 4 connectors from the IAC assembly. Undo the hose that connects teh IAC to the intake assembly.
2. The metal bracket holding up the gray-colored connector is blocking one of the IAC mounting bolts. Using a 10mm socket, remove the bolt that holds the metal bracket. The bolt is just below the purple connector - you have to twist your head and crane your neck around to see the bolt.
3. Remove the 3 mounting bolts using the 12mm socket. The lowest bolt may require the Universal joint.
4. Pull out your IAC valve and clean it w/throttle body cleaner, rag, and old toothbrush.
You may even want to separate the plastic valve to clean it more thoroughly. Use a philip's head screwdriver, but make sure it is a snug fight. It's on there tight and if you don't have a good fitting screwdriver, you could ruin the screw head.
Reinstallation is just the reverse of these steps. It may be easier access to the IAC if you remove the whole air intake assembly, but it's not necessary.
How to adjust IACV -
Warm the engine up to operating temp.
Turn off the engine.
Disconnect the TPS.
Start the engine and adjust the idle speed using the stop screw on the throttle body to 650 RPM's.
Turn off the engine.
Reconnect the TPS and restart the engine.
If the IACV is working correctly your idle should be correct. If it's a bit low, try adjusting the screw on the IACV bypass to get your idle speed to ~700 in neutral with no load. (no load means no lights or A/C)
02-03-2005, 05:29 PM
#18
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 100
I have the IACV valve off a 2000 SE as a spare that I got in case I needed to replace mine. Well now that I dont, I can offer it for sale. It came off a car that had 92k miles on it, looks ok as far as I can tell
02-08-2005, 07:09 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 213
I have my car back!!!! Woohooo!
I got ripped off by the 'stealership' and they had my car for 2 weeks, 6 days, but, my car's back, and she runs like new! They replaced the IAC valve, which they keep saying is 'the throttle body,' but it can't be can it? It's gotta just be part of it, right? I don't know, I'm just happy to have her back!
As a little side note, I found the top of second gear for the first time, and yes, my car does do 100mph quite nicely
I got ripped off by the 'stealership' and they had my car for 2 weeks, 6 days, but, my car's back, and she runs like new! They replaced the IAC valve, which they keep saying is 'the throttle body,' but it can't be can it? It's gotta just be part of it, right? I don't know, I'm just happy to have her back!
As a little side note, I found the top of second gear for the first time, and yes, my car does do 100mph quite nicely
02-08-2005, 07:19 PM
#20
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 68
Originally Posted by zourtney
I have my car back!!!! Woohooo!
I got ripped off by the 'stealership' and they had my car for 2 weeks, 6 days, but, my car's back, and she runs like new! They replaced the IAC valve, which they keep saying is 'the throttle body,' but it can't be can it? It's gotta just be part of it, right? I don't know, I'm just happy to have her back!
As a little side note, I found the top of second gear for the first time, and yes, my car does do 100mph quite nicely
I got ripped off by the 'stealership' and they had my car for 2 weeks, 6 days, but, my car's back, and she runs like new! They replaced the IAC valve, which they keep saying is 'the throttle body,' but it can't be can it? It's gotta just be part of it, right? I don't know, I'm just happy to have her back!
As a little side note, I found the top of second gear for the first time, and yes, my car does do 100mph quite nicely
They kept your car for 2 weeks just to replace the IAC valve? that's weird.
Well it's good you're happy but how much did it cost you at the end?
I think you should also find out exactly what part they replaced so you have it for future reference.
02-08-2005, 09:42 PM
#21
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 169
Originally Posted by swaggy
I have a similar problem right now. The car will start and idle fine on a cold engine but if I take it for a drive around the block and then shut the engine off, can't start it. Needle jumps to about 1100 rpm then just drops and it chokes unless I give it gas. If I let it cool off for a bit, it'll start again just fine. There are no codes from the ECU and SES light is not on. I thought it was the MAF so I ordered one from jerryromenissan.com but I haven't replaced it yet. Looking throught this thread I'm starting to worry that it may be the IACV. Does anyone have any recommendation? How much is the IACV anyways?
Hey dude dont worry about it--i worked on a maxima today that did the same thing the mass air flow was the problem--they give the mass air flow a big range before they consider it bad--no guarantee that this will fix your problem but most likely is what is wrong--the only problem is that when you replace it--if never replaced it before you have to reprogram the ecm and ecm reprograming is covered under a 8/80,000 warantee
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