I have a factory Bose system with the 8" sub. I am trying to install my TWO 10" MTX Thunder 8000's driven by a Rockford Fosgate 800a2.

Now here is my problem. I have a speaker to line level converter which basically takes speaker level input and converts it to a low level input for cleaner sound for the amp. Now I need to tap the line level converter to something, so I decided to tap right into the 8" sub. But the problem I am getting is that the Bass is not hitting as hard and it aint going as low in the HZ as my it was in a Mazda Millenia.

I think it may be because the 8" Bose might already be crossed over that it ONLY takes Hz in the range of maybe 45-200. Which is a problem because anything lower than 45 will never get to the MTX subwoofers.

My question is that you people out there who have installed a subwoofer system in your 5th MAX with a BOSE system, where did yall tap into for the speaker level?

I am getting Bass right now, but not the deep crazy bass that I want, and I KNOW IT AINT my MTX speakers because it worked fine in my other car.

Dixit

 

You'll probably need to clip into the wire before the crossover. I don't know much about the system, but I think the crossover and amp for the woofer are in the front (someone correct me if I'm wrong).

Where do you get the speaker to line level converters? I have a sub and amp sitting in my closet because I thought I couldn't use it at all with the BOSE system. But if I can just splice in like you were doing, that'd be sweet.

 

TCm,

The amp and the crossover are in the rear. The amp is mounted upside down underneath the rear deck on the passenger side. The crossover for the 8" subwoofer is right next to the sub.

You can get the speaker to line level converter at most audio stores such as Circuit City, Best Buy.... Just go to the installation department and ask for a speaker-to-line level converter.

But still I need to know which freagin' wire to tap into before the crossover, there are too many and dont even know which one is which.....

 

You is all wrong. I had to hack into the harness in the back and do it that way. My sub signal is raw right from the head unit. Im not sure what color wires you use but you have to cut into the harness and use those wires because the bose sub is individually powered and crossedover so only thing its good for is a powerhook up, you gotta go strait to the wires coming out of the main amp.
Adam

If you need me to look up what colors the wires are just let me know

 

Alright, well I know the amp is right there and I was going to tap into that, but did not know which one, there is like 20 wires coming out of that harness out of the BOSE amp underneath the rear deck. Just let me know which wires to use? I guess rear right and left would do. Also just one more question, the rear speakers, they have a cross over right near or on the speaker correct?

Dixit

 

Incorrect, the rear speakers have nothing on or near them. I know this because i changed out those speakers and put infinitys in the back door. The front speakers are crossed over though because of the tweeter. I also used a non bose amp to power the stock bose front speakers. It sounds amazing. Ask zach how loud and clean my system is, he has heard it. Ill look up all the colors later on

Adam

 

Aight well, let me know when you find out what color the wires are, i wanna change that joint soon.

Dixit

 

Why don't you just get anew head unit? I always thought that stock head units suck. My cousin did the same thing to his Pontiac Grand Prix which also has a Bose system. I wasn't impressed with the way it sounded so we tried my alpine and it sounded way better. I will e-mail him ths thread and maybe he can help or maybe he'll learn something that might improve the sound on his.

 

My problem is that I got the Bose Head Unit, and with this new 5th gen Max, the head unit aint even a normal double din or something like it. I know Crutchfield sells a kit, but it only holds a single DIN and the bottom of it is a pocket. I dont want that. I want a full double din opening. I know someone here in the forum actually made the single din crutchfield adapter into a double din, but i dont think i could do that myself.

I mean the Bose sounds great, the front tweeters and speakers and the rear speaker sound great. Full spectrum sound except that damn 8"sub.

Dixit

 

Well when and if you wanted to spend money on a new head unit, there is a Clarion head unit that will fit. Only problem is that it is close to $400. But the bottom line is its all about what you want. I sent a link to this thread so that my cousin can have a look at it. Like I've posted, he's done the same thing to his bose system in his Grand Prix. Take care.

 

Hello everyone Menacer is my cuz, Im the guy with the grand prix with the (ugh) bose system. I'd like to say that I've driven around with my cousin in his max and man that is one sweet ride, lots of power very Nice cars.

Back to the Bose issue, like bigdogjonx said the system subs have a bandpass crossover upper limit being around 200hz, the lower limit is (unfortunately) at about 45hz. Besides that the *biggest* problem is that the bose EQ curve, which remains the same regardless of how much you crank the bass ****(the bose EQ curve is optimized for maximum output and "sound quality" from the drivers they provide (be it 6X9's or 8" subs). Basically on bose systems without a factory sub the 6X9's (or whatever the biggest driver in the rear deck or back door is) signal is equalized to what the "designer" of the system thinks we want to hear ( apparantely we don't like low frequencies ). Besides that the bose designers decided to smoke crack cocaine and made all the speakers so that they run at 1 ohm (at least that's the case in my system) so that if you replace your stock head unit and try to run the bose speakers with that (bypassing the factory amps) you'll end up with a fryed aftermarket head unit. so, even if you tap into the factory wiring harness in the back of the factory head unit in hopes of getting a *clean* sub signal, rest assured the wonderful designers at bose made that impossible (bose EQ built into the head unit).

My plans are to replace the crap bose likes to call a head unit with the alpine cda-d852, this unit allows me to keep my steering wheel controls (with an adapter from soundgate) and I'll be running an infinity component set for my highs in the front, 4inch coaxial infinity's in the rear deck for rear fill. all run by an orion 500.2 for my two 12" RF HX2 subs and an orion 500.4 for my highs. Don't get me wrong I like how the highs sound on the bose system (in most cases) but the bass just has to go, for it to go, everything has to go.

Thanks for reading this,

MR2177

 

As far as dash kits go.. Pioneer used the GXE dash kit and put in a double din radio... you can order them for around $80-100 from DaveB. The actual part is called (I believe) the gxe a/c vent assembly.

 

Thanks for writing MR2117,

I knew that the 8" sub had a range on the crossover. I definetely want to replace the headunit, but with this damn new MAX I gotta get a whole you kit and no one sells a double din kit. Everyone sells a single din with a pocket underneath. Some dude on these forums actually molded one himself to make it double din. I want to put the alpine dvd nagivation head unit. And definetly plan on going with the infinity component sets. They ROCK!.

But getting back to the issue at hand, For now since I am not buying all this new headunit and equip now, what you recommend the best way to get input signal for my subs? I was thinking of just tapping straight off the Bose Amp. That way it has not been crossed-over, but the only problem I would remain with is the EQcurve coming from the headunit, which i think i can bear with until i drop $1200 for a new headunit.

What you think?
Dixit

 

BigDogJonx, yes defenitely get the signal before the amp, What I would do is to run the rca's from the head unit to the trunk and attach the line level converters straight from the head unit. Three good things result from doing this now, 1. rca's are already routed for when you replace the factory head, with that badass alpine dvd, nav unit, 2. you bypass that annoying bandpass X-over , 3. the closer to the head unit the line level converters are, the less electrical interference introduced into the system.

While you have your baby (max) taken appart, might as well route new speaker wires for your infinity component set (high five on that one, they do rock!) also weather strip anything that looks like it might rattle, when you install your new head unit and high freq. speakers you will be all set.

As far as the aftermarket head unit, and new pocket that would result, me and my cousing thought that would be pretty cool, but you don't want that pocket, maybe the person that modeled one for his car can make one for yours? for a small fee? anyway good luck, and please update us on your system!!

thanks,

MR2177

 

If you still need to know which wires to tap into check http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/audiowiring.asp

 

god i never realized how old this post was until i looked at the date. I thought dixit got another max again.