Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ-U)
Blown MAF?
I have a 2000 SE that I put a K&N filter in two days ago, and today I started the car and it had the SES light on and was shaking pretty badly. From the FAQ's, this definitely sounds like a blown MAF, assuming the SES light comes on when this happens as well. So, I plan on taking it to the dealer I bought it from for the extended warranty (Chevy dealer) to have it replaced, but I am going to put the OEM filter back in as well. Anything else I need to do so there's no way to tell that there was a K&N in there? Also, will the ECU need to be reprogrammed? Part of the reason I'm taking it to the Chevy dealer is I don't have to pay the $100.00 deductible for the extended warranty, and I also work at the same dealer, so I'd prefer to take it there. Any reason that I would need to take it to a Nissan dealer? Also, will it hurt it to drive it? Thanks in advance.
Timing Advance *facts*
so much misinformation flying around in this thread (the one I posted this in originally, that is)...so here's some facts:
1. Timing can be advanced to 17deg on the 00, 18 deg on 01 (IIRC), and 20 on the 02-03. It WILL "stick" and won't change back. That only happens in 4th gens.
2. It can only be done with the consult 2 tool. It takes 2 minutes to do, and is not complicated.
3. When getting it done, make sure to get the idle reset.
4. Most dealers won't do it "on the books"....best bet is to bribe a tech with some cash to do it out back of the shop.
5. It has not been provent to increase actual horsepower. The main benefit that everyone notices is a smoother engine tone and quicker throttle response. Don't consider this a "power" mod, but more of a "quickness" mod.
6. It will not kill your knock sensor any faster than usual, especially if you use premium gas. I have had NO knocking since my advance, except for sometimes when I dump mid-grade in for long road trips to save a few cents.
7. It is more noticeable on the 00-01 than on the 02-03. Don't ask me why....me (00) and soonerfan (02) had ours done at the same time. Mine was VERY noticeable, his was just a little bit.
8. you may get more knocking if you are at higher elevations (up in the rockies, for instance) because of the thinner air. Your car may be set stock to 14 or 13 degrees stock, rather than 15 like most, to compensate. Advance it 2 degrees and see if you like it....don't go 13 to 17 IMO.
1. Timing can be advanced to 17deg on the 00, 18 deg on 01 (IIRC), and 20 on the 02-03. It WILL "stick" and won't change back. That only happens in 4th gens.
2. It can only be done with the consult 2 tool. It takes 2 minutes to do, and is not complicated.
3. When getting it done, make sure to get the idle reset.
4. Most dealers won't do it "on the books"....best bet is to bribe a tech with some cash to do it out back of the shop.
5. It has not been provent to increase actual horsepower. The main benefit that everyone notices is a smoother engine tone and quicker throttle response. Don't consider this a "power" mod, but more of a "quickness" mod.
6. It will not kill your knock sensor any faster than usual, especially if you use premium gas. I have had NO knocking since my advance, except for sometimes when I dump mid-grade in for long road trips to save a few cents.
7. It is more noticeable on the 00-01 than on the 02-03. Don't ask me why....me (00) and soonerfan (02) had ours done at the same time. Mine was VERY noticeable, his was just a little bit.
8. you may get more knocking if you are at higher elevations (up in the rockies, for instance) because of the thinner air. Your car may be set stock to 14 or 13 degrees stock, rather than 15 like most, to compensate. Advance it 2 degrees and see if you like it....don't go 13 to 17 IMO.
I having some problems with the my 2000 max. I'm thinking that there could possibly be a problem related to the stage 1 nismo clutch that I put in 3 months ago. From time to time, I will have problems putting the car from neutral into first gear or from neutral to anygear for that matter. It just started a couple of days ago. It only happens after I first start it up. When it does happen, I have to turn the car off and move the shifter into first and then start the car. Any ideas from anyone? Or can anyone tell me if a worn clutch could be the cause of my problems?
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Originally Posted by maximadriver198
I having some problems with the my 2000 max. I'm thinking that there could possibly be a problem related to the stage 1 nismo clutch that I put in 3 months ago. From time to time, I will have problems putting the car from neutral into first gear or from neutral to anygear for that matter. It just started a couple of days ago. It only happens after I first start it up. When it does happen, I have to turn the car off and move the shifter into first and then start the car. Any ideas from anyone? Or can anyone tell me if a worn clutch could be the cause of my problems?
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I didn't see anything like this under Lighting; this is one of the best HIDs reads I have seen:
http://www.intellexual.net/hid.html
http://www.intellexual.net/hid.html
How do I check for bad ignition coils?
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hez8813
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