Hi all,
I just got Budget Y pipe installed, also i change the intake filter with K&N (sliding down to OEM box). I decided to get the K&N OEM replacement because i read some people lose their torque due to CAI (like injen that i have read).

The result, I feel a lot difference on high RPM. But, on the low RPM i feel my car a bit stupid. May be i am losing torque on lower RPM.

Sound is a bit louder, louder but not deep at all. But with a little bit, very little bees sound under the engine when i rev rev my car on the garage.
Did not dyno it, but i checked 0-60 mi/hr before and after changing that Y pipe. 8.86sec before, 8.06sec after. Which is really nothing for spending 300 dollars including installation fee.

O yah before i forget, i have staight through cat with resonator. What seems to be funny is mine is much quieter than soonerfan.

 

It's not the car that's stupid, it's usually the drive. , just kidding.

 

That's pretty slow to begin with... how'd ya time it? By hand?

Also, $300 was way too much to pay for a y-pipe install... don't mean to be "that guy" but someone had to tell ya.... I hope ya didn't pay them to change the filter too....

 

He said $300 including installation which is pretty good

 

Sorry... thanks for the correction... I guess I was distracted by the 8 second 0-60....

Although, what do those Budgets run? $200? $100 for installation is still pretty high.... BUT instead of speculating, we'll see what he says...

 

Lol..yah that would distract me too

I got mine for $185 last July I think..depends on the exchange rate that day I guess but I've seen it go as high as $205 before...I think I got mine installed for $50 at Meineke

 

I paid $20 for my install... took the car to Meineke to torch the nuts on the cat off and replace em with new ones so I wouldn't break the bolts.... did the rest myself....

 

Actually, since you added the Y-pipe you would have made more gains by adding either a CAI or WAI instead of just the K&N filter. The intake does add higher rpm power by itself, but it would work better in conjunction with the Y-pipe to give you a stronger, broader powerband.


Correct me if i'm wrong, but I do believe soonerfan has an intake and straight-pipe in addition to the Y-pipe, as opposed to stock air box and an actual cat like you have.

 

by the way, how did your budget fit? SOONR1 has had nothing but trouble with them, and the fitment on it was horrible, much better when compared to my wsp

 

I believe that is right... y-pipe+straight pipe...

 

And his new Berk Intake is on the way....he has been converted from the GAB, lol.

 

where do you guys buy this "budget" y pipe from?

 

Hi,
Yes the Y pipe itself is $205, and installation fee is $96. I just don't want to risk my self working something under my car, which is a bit dangerous in my opinion.

According to the installer, the Y pipe that i have i very very perfect fitment. Without doing any bending or modification. Everything is perfect. Even the flange which attach to the manifold is perfect. He was even asking me whether it is custome made. Then it is obviously custom made for our maxima, hahaha...

Yes i calculated just with stopwatch on my cellphone. I know it is very slow, i have auto trany on 5 gen. I just don't know what is going wrong with my car. Do you guys have any idea what is the cause of my slowness on my car. It only have 26000 miles on it.
I am thinking to advance the timing by 2 degree tomorrow afternoon. Hope this help a lot on my car.
O yah before i forget, i only put 89 octane. This might be the cause, in my opinion.

 

I'm sorry, but you're a G*damned idiot. How old are you? Seriously...do you even know what filling up with such ****ty gas can do to a Maxima?

 

I know i am stupid, But 89 is the cheapest gas here is Iowa compare to 87 and 91. But i always fill my gas with either BP, Shell, or Mobil. Those applied to both of my cars.
On the manual written that premium is recomended only, not required. I asked dealer about this about 1 year ago, and he said that with 93 octan will give me nothing else but protection against knocking. I trust him so far.

 

this should be a sticky

 

Why not pay that dollar or two extra per tank?

 

I'm a bit curious about this statement. Isn't the stock airbox a "cold air" system? If so, is there any documentation to show how much CFM it is capable of flowing?

I just bought an '02 Maxima. The last 20 years of my life have been spent dealing primarily with Chrysler turbomotors. The stock airbox on those turbo engines, which were originally rated at ~175hp, was capable of flowing more than enough air to make over 300hp. So a K&N drop-in was actually more than sufficient for most people.

I'd be curious to know exactly how much benefit on a 3.5L there is to installing a cone filter system over simply using a K&N drop-in. Does anyone have a source to point me to?

 

that was my concern too, According to calculation by changing drop in filter should be sufficient. On top of that the OEM intake is sucking between the front grill which is much colder compare to cone filter which is located inside the engine compartment which is a little bit or hotter than outside.

 

just speculating here, but it could be the 3.0L engine mounted to the automatic transmission, all bolted into a big car that is slowing you down a bit.

 

Most don't consider the stock airbox a cold air system, since its higher up in the engine bay and behind the radiator... Place Racing makes an intake that has its filter lower down in the engine bay by the fender well, and it requires a hole to be cut to let in cooler air....

There have been some tests... this is one of em:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=195391

There are probably more in the Dyno forums...

 

On the 89 (87 is actually the cheapest, lowest grade. You might be using it), I did a little experiment a year ago and found that the 93 octane gas increased my milage enough to justify paying the extra 10 cents over 89. Not to mention the fact that the car likes it and performs better.

 

Uhh no. It's the crappy gas he puts in his car. I'm guessing many of you didn't see the dyno chart that showed a 5th gen running 87 and then 93. Can you say 20HP and 17TQ difference? At this point, his car has taken in so much 89 that the ECU has adjusted itself to spark and combust at a certain rate...a very, very slow rate.

 

taking the accuracy of the timing method you used, you shaved .8 seconds off your 0-60 time. using a more accurate test, and using the right gas, you *theoretically* could have shaved a second off your 0-60 time, from 8.86 down to 7.86. maybe even more, running the right gas. yes it is slow, but the results are really not all that conclusive either. gaining nearly a second in your 0-60 times is excellent!

 

Dynos are done with the engine bay exposed...so the test isn't exactly full proof.

 

That's for the footnote...

According to my butt dyno... my Berk intake didn't do squat... I do like the sound though...

 

Given from where the stock airbox draws its air, I'd definately say it is a "cold air" system. It would seem that it's height in the engine compartment would only be a factor when idling. Once the car is moving and air is flowing, I'd have a hard time believing the airbox is heating anything.

This system from Place Racing, does it box off/insulate the open element filter from the rest of the engine bay?

I was going to say the same thing. The cold air system provided less than 1HP and 2.5lbs/tq. And again that's with the hood up to allow the hot underhood air to escape.

Anyone have track results?

I'm not trying to be difficult here, or start a flame war, but I've learned over the years to investigate BEFORE making performance modifications. I've seen too many claims of "big power when bolting on Part X" be nothing more than marketing BS. It has cost me more money than I am comfortable with. My Maxima is bone stock and I am trying to investigate if the cost of some of these cold-air systems is worth it vs. a simple K&N drop-in.

 

See now that's another issue, and IMO it is a valid one.

 

I sell Nissan's in Hawaii and I tell all my customers that buy any VQ series or 2.5L motors in the spec v's that they have to put 92 octane in the car. Its basically simple....There high performance motors that require the higher octane! Like the guy said in the above posts... You probably f'd it all up running lower octane all this time in your car.

 

crappy gas or premium gas, the 2k - 2k1 auto is by no means
a fast car.

 

Save it. My auto launches like a bat out of hell. All I'll have to do is a little stage 2 VB mod and my car will shift identically to yours.

 

Ok, but isn't protection against knocking a good thing? Knocking isn't necessarily something you want to happen and low octane gas will cause this to happen.

 

then you have done some work to your car. a 2k-2k1 auto isn't even is the same ballpark as the 5 speed. sorry, but that's the truth.

 

Some work? Not really. +2 advance timing, a new suspension + Falkens. I don't want this to turn into a flame war, but the whole "stick >>> auto" debate has gotten tired and old. A lot of the performance increases are in your head. I've driven a 5spd SE, and while yes...they are somewhat faster, the difference isn't quite as obvious as 5-speeders here claim. Like I said, a stage-2 VB mod would make my auto stay toe-to-toe with any 5spd. And if I had stage 3, I'd rock every stock 5spd out there.

The difference *is* there, but it's not large enough to warrant calling an auto slow. Big rolleyes to you, sir.

 

mmm....yeah, there's a big enough of a difference. the 6 spd 3.5 vs. the auto 3.5 is a different story. but the 3L is a totally different car with the manny.

 

ihavea5spd, hummel nissan at DSM will do advance timing for 1/2 hour labor job. My appointment is on monday 10AM. Just in case this information may help.

 

nice! hey, thanks for the tip. those guys have always treated me pretty well over there. nothing like the dealer horror stories you hear of elsewhere.

are you a student at ISU?

 

Yes I am a student at ISU.

 

I am now just getting my Y pipe from ebay. There's one selling right now for about $110.00.. So hopefully it'll fit perfectly. But will let ya know.. Anyone with a Y pipe, can you really feel a difference a lot when taking off? If so, at what rpm does it kick in?

 

i went to ISU. GO 'CLONES!