MaxTooNice

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys,
I plan on going in to the mechanic tomorrow, because my car isnt starting. But before I do, I was hoping somebody could help me guess what the problem might be.
I have a 2000 Maxima, and I just replaced the battery last Sept (04).
I've had to get it jumped twice and both time all the lights, radio etc were working. But when I started there was just a clicking sound. It wasn't turning over. Yesterday when I attempted to start and then stopped, it started to go crazy, clicking and blinking all the lights on the dashboard very rapidly. This stopped when I put the key in the ignition. I have no idea what that was all about, but can anybody help me identify the problem?
thanks.

upstatemax

iTrader: (15)

i know this does not help you, however i could not help but notice that your location says NYC/Albany, NY.... they are over 200 miles apart which do you live in?

i really hope you dont drive to NYC everyday for work... or to Albany everyday for work...

if you live in Albany, do not take it to Nemith Nissan in latham!! if you must goto a dealer go to Lia Nissan. or you can goto Otto Mitsu and have my brother look it over (in CP).

scopium

is your car a auto?
if it is
put the car in neutral then start it.. see if that works..

MaxTooNice

iTrader: (5)

Hey upstatemax, I live in NYC but I go to school at SUNY albany. Thanks for the advice, I was planning on taking it to this mechanic that my friend recommended. But if that doesnt work out I'll take it to your brother for sure.

Scopium, my car is auto. I'll try that tomorrow, but what will this do? Help start it for the time being? Either way thanks

Any more suggestions? plz??

MaxTooNice

iTrader: (5)

help me.. help me plz?!?!?

MaxTooNice

iTrader: (5)

I just brought my car to the mechanics. It took me many tries to get it started, and that was with a jump. It almost started the first and second time, but after that it seemed like a lost cause. It was just clicking, and not turning over. Eventually it started and I got it to the mechanics. I'm still not sure what the problem is, but I still think its the battery. Well I guess I'll get word from the mechanic soon enough.

On another note, my car has been stalling in the cold. I'm guessing dirty throttle body or spark plugs. Anybody have suggestions about this also?

thanks

upstatemax

iTrader: (15)

how many miles on the car and have you done a tune up? even if the stalling problem stops, you prob want to do a tune up and some cleaning. i had good results with seafoam, for the intake... and i have all new plugs. feels a lot better, you dont realize how crappy it is running till you clean some stuff.

if you need help with the seafoam and plugs, just PM and we might be able to meet somewhere and i can help.

MaxTooNice

iTrader: (5)

Hey upstatemax, thanks for the advice. I just got a tune up this past summer. I definately plan on doing all the maintenance sutff. I actually have a new MAF and a set of ngk iridium plugs sitting in my closet. Just waiting for it to get a little warmer. But I'm not that mechanically inclined, so I might take you up on that offer.
take care bro

DAP

Are your battery wires on tight enough around the battery post. Do you have any corrosion on the battery terminals?

LA02MAX

iTrader: (3)

my mom's 2k had corrosion on both her battery terminals and it was doing exactly what you describe...she got it fixed and its been fine since.

MaxTooNice

iTrader: (5)

The terminals looked tight and there was no visible corrosion. Thanks for the idea though. I will be sure to keep it that way when I get my car back.

Maximaum Driver

I have a 2000SE, and when the battery and alternator were taking a dump on me, the panel lights went crazy.

I was driving home, and the ABS light came on, then the Air Bag, then then then. I thought "Oh S hit, here goes the damn computer. I am so screwed"

I replaced the Battery, as the initial flunky at Kragen's said the battery was bad (7PM, I didn't have much choice). It started to happen again a few weeks later, so I took it to a real alternator shop, and sure enough a few diodes were open. I had it reparied and BAM, no more problems.

808MAX-SPEC

iTrader: (7)

Check the alternator. Seeing the dash lights flicker is pretty scary.

MaxTooNice

iTrader: (5)

Hey I got my car back this afternoon, they just checked it out and replaced the battery free of charge since I got it replaced there 6 months ago. Hopefully this will fix the problem and it was just a bad battery. If it was the alternator would the problem come up right away since it continually recharges the battery? or would it gradually happen.. over lets say.. 6 months. Thanks for the help everybody, it's very much appreciated.

And seeing the dash lights flicker on and off while making weird grinding sounds was very unsettling, and this was without the keys in the ignition - it just went off by itself. I still have no idea what that was all about.

MaxTooNice

iTrader: (5)

Oh yeah. For people that know about this stuff would I be able to check the alternator myself, and what should I look for if I could.

lalaMAX

to check the alternator i think start up the engine..... while the engine is running... put a meter betwen yr battery's "+" and "-" see if it's 14V... correct me if i am wrong... daz how i my frd check my old car's alternator...

808MAX-SPEC

iTrader: (7)

You're lucky it was the battery. If your alternator goes, the most likely symptom would be the brake light and battery light on at the same time.

Dr. Roy

iTrader: (10)

99.99999% of the time this happens b/c of loose/bad/corroded connection @ battery terminals.

the contacts may be tight, they may not look overly corroded & the battery may have 14V ...when the key is in the on position everything in the car will work fine & lights will not be dim b/c there is enough contact at the terminals to allow the 10-15 amps needed to run everything, but when you try to turn the engine over, there is not sufficient contact at 1 of the terminals to allow the 70+ amps of current needed by the starter to flow through.

w/o enough current to turn the starter, the starter motor acts like a short, and the area of bad contact heats up & breaks the circuit, everything goes dim, the starter solenoid clicks off, demand for current drops, bad contact can once again supply enough current, starter solenoid clicks back on, and the whole process starts again, over and over until the key is returned to ON position. That is why every thing in the car works, but clicks and flickers when you try to start the car.

You can usually locate the bad terminal b/c it will be warm after you try to start the car. Both the battery terminal and clamp need to be thoroughly cleaned w/ sand paper/wire brush, and retightened, applying a little dielectric grease tothe contacts should prevent it from happening again

Maximaum Driver

If you have a meter to check, great. If not, someone will check it for free. It's best to do it sooner rather than later though. I'd think that depending on your electrical usage (how loud you have the stereo, the rear window defrost, etc), and what the output of the alternator is, it may slowly drag down the battery.

If the alternator is good, you *may* want to start looking for electrical leaks. Possibly a light is staying on that should not be.

MaxTooNice

iTrader: (5)

Cool thanks for all the help. I'll try to get the battery checked. And I'll do the clean and sand down the terminals. That seems like an easy enough fix (and cheap). I dunno how you know all this but seriously thanks for sharing the knowledge. I'm still mad jealous of you lights tho.. they're just too nice.