psu711

Had a garage tell me I needed a new EGR valve because that was the problem with my ses light being on.

I took the '02 gle to autozone and they pulled these...P1456, P0442

P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System leak Detected (small leak)
P1456 Leak Detected In EVAP Control System

Now, I dont really know much about cars, but according to autozone this has nothing to do with an egr valve, maybe evap canister??

Kinda confused on what to do. I have heard people complain about autozone but I watched the guy pull the codes, read them myself and wrote them down...

When I called the garage the guy said he gets 200 evap small leak codes per week, but couldnt tell me why I would need a egr valve with those codes (another mechanic worked on my car and he isnt in today)

Advice would be greatly appreciated....Thanks all!

Larrio Motors

iTrader: (23)

if you are still under warranty, i'd recommed just taking to the dealership for them to fix the problem.

you could try resetting the ECU and then see if the same codes come back

psu711

No warrenty left, So I got that going for me, which is nice

psu711

Going back to talk to the garage today....Anyone have any suggestions? Anything? Anybody?

UMD_MaxSE

iTrader: (1)

check your gas cap...

nfisher50

I got the same codes. The stealer**** told me I needed a new Evap Vent Control Valve for a grand total of $400. Since it doesn't affect emissions, I left it. By the way I've had this problem for 4 months now, I just reset the ecu about 130 miles ago and the SES light came back on. I've tried to do searches on this, but didn't get any help, so I'll be watching this thread closely.

Lontar1

iTrader: (5)

just reset the ECU leave the negative off for a few hours at least 3 hours and run it.. when the light comes back go to Autozone get the new code and go from there...

nfisher50

Lontar1, how does that help? We know what the problem is.

PSU, it sounds like you mechanic doesn't know what he is talking about. Those codes are legit and the computer doesn't lie. I have the same issue. Resetting the ECU does nothing but get rid of the SES light for awhile. I only want to get it taken care of, incase something else goes wrong that needs to be checked out. With the SES light on from this evap control module, I would not know of a new problem.

Lontar1

iTrader: (5)

Well that was my opinion, I might not know but you can take it to the dealer so they can screw you $85.00 to tell you "Cannot duplicate what customer states" Here you go pay me $85.00 and get used to the SES.
I gave my opinion so you can have a clear mind, two different diagnostics with different answers. So what I'm saying is clear the SES and run it for a while until the light comes on again and then make YOUR decision...

Good Luck

psu711

Thank both you guys for your opinions. I have reset the ses and as soon as the engine cycles (which seems to be about 150 miles for me) the ses light comes back on.

Basically I was hit by a car in my rear driver side wheel. Then about 150 miles later the ses light came on. This was over 3 months ago.

I just got the car fixed and the garage told me the ses was from the egr valve located on the engine and not related to the accident so bla bla bla insurance wont pay for it.

After asking around and getting the codes I was told those codes could be the evap canister which the stealership tell me runs 650$ for laber, canister and mounting bracket....Funny thing is I was also told the evap canister is located behind the.......you guessed it, rear driver side wheel.

So basically im screwed and dont know what to do.....But it sounds as if it isnt the egr valve so Im not to happy about that info.

nfisher50

PSU, yeah, like i said, i cleared the SES light and after about 150 miles, it came back. Oh well, it isn't worth the money to get it fixed I guess. I was hoping to find a writeup or some other experiences with this, but its been months now and I haven't heard or seen anything. Didn't you say when you asked the dealer that he gets about 200 of these a week? Are none of them max's or what?? We must be the only ones?

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

01-03s do NOT have EGR valves, the EVAP canister on a Maxima sits under car- by the driver's rear wheel- behind it. I will post a picture of it. In case of an accident the body shop most of the time gets $$$ to repleace this item but they never do it. They try glueing the EVAP canister with glue etc to stop those leaks. I would take you car to a GOOD mechanic with a FOG machine. They will run pressurized FOG through the EVAP system and if there is a leak anywhere it will come out that hole basically. With crash cars I don't mess around and just use the machine. Purge control valve is usually what goes bad on the Maxima, but in your case it might be more than that.

nfisher50- when its time for emission test on your car, you will fail and WILL have to fix it in order to keep driving your car legally on the road. Check engine lights and emission testes in Cook county do not mix, I blew up my 6th MAF on the way home today in the rain and I got the light myself. I had my scanner in the back seat, cleared it and will be installing the new MAF in a little bit.

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

On the opposite side of the muffler- which will be the drivers side, next to the spare tire well is a rectangular shaped black box. Its RIGHT behind the tow hook, this is the EVAP canister. I suspect yours got damaged durring the accident.

CCS2k1Max

iTrader: (2)

wassup Mike? BTW pic not showing. Didn't you just install a new MAF about a week ago???

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

sorry- link to the pic is
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...5_199_full.jpg

Yeah brand new MAF just died- the NEWEST updated one. I have my old one that ran same as this one (1.5 years) in my toolbox at work. I already got a new one from Nissan, parts warranty on it. I repleaced my old one cause I thought that maybe its causing some hesitation when the car is cold and I'm around 1800RPM slowly accelerating. I'ma be outside in a few min repleacing the sucker.

CCS2k1Max

iTrader: (2)

"We are sorry, your request has caused an error. Please press back on your browser and try again."

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/574975/13

3rd picture after the exhaust is on the car- its a shot from under the car in the back, showing off the whole exhaust system.

Sometimes Cardomain is ghey and won't let me link anything.

Stardust

iTrader: (10)

psu711

"01-03s do NOT have EGR valves".....

Are you serious???? So by the mechanic telling me its "my egr valve" he was just outright lying to me???

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

No EGR valves on ALL 5.5 gens and 01 Cali spec 3.0L 5th gens. 6th Gen supposelly went back to EGR valve but I'm not a 6th gen person and I don't care Your mechanic lied to you- YES.

bigEL

I'm not surprised. When my CEL came on, I took it to a highly recommended shop. The mechanic took care of the light, but it came back. So I went back again and again. Each time, paying a $85 diagnostic fee plus whatever repairs he said. On my final trip, he brought out a jar of watery sludge he said he pulled from my gas tank. My entire fuel system had to be replaced. Sadly, I had just moved, knew no one in the city, needed my car, and didn't know where else to go or what else to do, so I paid it.

A week goes by and the light comes on again. By now, I think I have a lemon. I decide to trade it and prepare for the worst. The dealer's mechanic goes over the car and tells me it's in good shape, but I have a bad oxygen sensor. He tells me the previous mechanic probably just reset the CEL without doing much else. He also said a lot of shops have a "mystery jar." They will show the same jar to customers and claim it came from the gas tank, radiator, brakes, etc. Anyway, he fixes my car and asks if I still want to trade it. I say I'll think about it, thank him, and drive away. Almost a year later and everything is still perfect.

So do some mechanics just blatantly lie to you? Yes. Are some just so clueless and/or incompetent that you think they're lying? Yes. But are there good honest mechanics out there too? Yes. Mike has shown he is one and certainly deserves much credit for that.

gansemer

I had the P1456 code and it was the evap canister which is just behind the rear tire on the passenger side. If you were in an accident back there, this is almost certainly your problem. The canister takes about 15-30 minutes to replace and costs $135 from trademotion.com

gansemer

Try this link instead

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...02&catalogid=1

psu711

Thanks all, especially for the link the the vapor system....After calling and yelling at the mechanic who "fixed" my car (atleast the body looks good) I am taking it back to him tonight. Tomorrow morning he will take it to the stealership and I told him I want them to fix it. Since I was basically hit in the rear driver side wheel well and rear qp I assume this has to be accident related. (to much coincidence for me to believe my ses light comes on 150 miles after im hit)

The pictures are great!!!! Thanks alot for posting, im actually gonna print it out and show it to the mechanic and ask him if he thought this was an egr valve...what a d!ck.

Funny thing is, this garage has now lost any chance from ever getting business from me, and if they would have just diagnosed the problem and fixed it correctly, insurance would have paid the bill and I would have been very happy with their service.

Owell.

nfisher50

gansemer, could you do a quick write up. I just ordered the part. Thanks a lot man!!!

psu711

Nfisher, let me know if you end up doing the evap canistor replacement, and what your results are....Thanks