Rattle--possibly timing chain
06-25-2005, 08:19 AM
#1
Rattle--possibly timing chain
Ok I have a very annoying rattle that I'm pretty sure is coming from the timing chain rattling against the cover. I just wanted to post what it's doing to see if anyone else has had the problem.
The rattle is high pitched and is coming from the passenger side of the engine bay. Weird part is...it only happens between 2K and 3K RPMs when I’m cruising. If I accelerate fast between the 2K and 3K, it doesn’t do it. It really sucks because that’s the normal RPM range for cruising. I've had to keep it in a lower gear to keep the RPMs up so I don’t have to hear it. And it only makes the sound under load. If I am sitting still with the clutch in and give it gas, I can’t get it to make the sound (which makes diagnosing the exact location of the problem more difficult since I cant listen to the sound with the hood open)
At first I thought it might be pinging but the sound is different (pinging is usually more of a "thunk thunk thunk" and this is a fast "gu gu gu" sound). Plus pinging usually happens anytime you accelerate, not in a specific RPM range.
I know there is a TSB for a "rattle during cold starts" because the timing chain has too much play in it. I’m thinking that this is probably what is causing my rattle.
Any thoughts?
The rattle is high pitched and is coming from the passenger side of the engine bay. Weird part is...it only happens between 2K and 3K RPMs when I’m cruising. If I accelerate fast between the 2K and 3K, it doesn’t do it. It really sucks because that’s the normal RPM range for cruising. I've had to keep it in a lower gear to keep the RPMs up so I don’t have to hear it. And it only makes the sound under load. If I am sitting still with the clutch in and give it gas, I can’t get it to make the sound (which makes diagnosing the exact location of the problem more difficult since I cant listen to the sound with the hood open)
At first I thought it might be pinging but the sound is different (pinging is usually more of a "thunk thunk thunk" and this is a fast "gu gu gu" sound). Plus pinging usually happens anytime you accelerate, not in a specific RPM range.
I know there is a TSB for a "rattle during cold starts" because the timing chain has too much play in it. I’m thinking that this is probably what is causing my rattle.
Any thoughts?
06-25-2005, 09:27 AM
#2
Originally Posted by soonerfan
Ok I have a very annoying rattle that I'm pretty sure is coming from the timing chain rattling against the cover. I just wanted to post what it's doing to see if anyone else has had the problem.
The rattle is high pitched and is coming from the passenger side of the engine bay. Weird part is...it only happens between 2K and 3K RPMs when I’m cruising. If I accelerate fast between the 2K and 3K, it doesn’t do it. It really sucks because that’s the normal RPM range for cruising. I've had to keep it in a lower gear to keep the RPMs up so I don’t have to hear it. And it only makes the sound under load. If I am sitting still with the clutch in and give it gas, I can’t get it to make the sound (which makes diagnosing the exact location of the problem more difficult since I cant listen to the sound with the hood open)
At first I thought it might be pinging but the sound is different (pinging is usually more of a "thunk thunk thunk" and this is a fast "gu gu gu" sound). Plus pinging usually happens anytime you accelerate, not in a specific RPM range.
I know there is a TSB for a "rattle during cold starts" because the timing chain has too much play in it. I’m thinking that this is probably what is causing my rattle.
Any thoughts?
The rattle is high pitched and is coming from the passenger side of the engine bay. Weird part is...it only happens between 2K and 3K RPMs when I’m cruising. If I accelerate fast between the 2K and 3K, it doesn’t do it. It really sucks because that’s the normal RPM range for cruising. I've had to keep it in a lower gear to keep the RPMs up so I don’t have to hear it. And it only makes the sound under load. If I am sitting still with the clutch in and give it gas, I can’t get it to make the sound (which makes diagnosing the exact location of the problem more difficult since I cant listen to the sound with the hood open)
At first I thought it might be pinging but the sound is different (pinging is usually more of a "thunk thunk thunk" and this is a fast "gu gu gu" sound). Plus pinging usually happens anytime you accelerate, not in a specific RPM range.
I know there is a TSB for a "rattle during cold starts" because the timing chain has too much play in it. I’m thinking that this is probably what is causing my rattle.
Any thoughts?
06-25-2005, 09:29 AM
#3
Oh, and I didn't mean to say that it was about time you had bad luck, just that it's good to know that maybe another 5.5 gen owner and myself can finally work together to find the problem face to face.
06-25-2005, 11:37 AM
#8
Originally Posted by GBAUER
Lemme me, Rashabh, and every other 5.5 gen know if you figure it out! We all have it and have all been working on it. If you're tearing into your timing chain cover this weekend (Sunday?), let me know. I'll come over and help. It's about time that this happened to another local DC'er with a little car knowledge. I've been hesitant to really dig without a helping hand. You got my number.
just wanted peoples opinions before i took it in. if it was something simple, i would do it myself.
06-25-2005, 01:19 PM
#9
Originally Posted by soonerfan
well i still have about 20K of powertrain warranty left so im not working on ****.
just wanted peoples opinions before i took it in. if it was something simple, i would do it myself.
just wanted peoples opinions before i took it in. if it was something simple, i would do it myself.
06-26-2005, 06:05 PM
#12
Originally Posted by irish44j
I listened to it today...most likely timing chain tensioner gone bad. That's what you get for having a 
5.5th gen 
j/k....
5.5th gen j/k....taking it to the dealership as soon as i they can get me in. it sure is nice to have a warranty again!! my 00 was 30K past the powertrain warranty
06-29-2005, 12:58 PM
#13
ok well i just picked up the car from the dealership
i was right about the noise being the timing chain but it was cause bu a larger problem.
tech drained the oil and only 1 F'ing quart came out!!! now i just chained the oil 2 months ago and used amsoil. i checked the level about a month ago and it was fine. the timing chain wasnt get lubricated so it was making the noise.
so i went to pick up my car and asked to speak to the tech. i was talking to him right next to the service manager. the manager said to come back in 1,000 miles so they could check the level and they would go from there. so i asked the tech what the oil looked like. he said, "it was really dark. the car looks like it was driven hard" i said, "or maybe its dark cause there was only 1 quart of oil in it!! why would you think it was run hard?" he replied, "all the performance mods" (typical dealership response) so i said, "thats not evidence that the car was run hard. you cant just say the car was run hard because i have mods. thats not evidence" he kinda laughed and said something about the tires being more worn on the outside.
so i go pay the cashier $25 for my "oil change" and started walking to my car. i saw the tech out smoking and went to talk to him away from his service manager. i said "the tires are like that because i autocrossed 2 weeks ago but that wouldnt cause the car to burn oil. 'driving a car hard' wont cause a problem" he laughed and said "i know thats not what caused it. i drive hard to. call me when you are close to 1,000 miles and i'll check the oil and look at it for you" then we talked about my car and he was saying how nice it was and that he loved the feel of the shifter when he first got in it.
he seems to think the oil was burning because it was synthetic. my car had only had conventional in it before me (35K miles) and the seals had gotten used to it. synthetic is thinner (higher viscosity) so when the oil pressure is high (high RPMs) the oil might have leaked into the cylinder and burned. synthetic doesnt smoke when it burns so i never noticed it. he said if it doesnt lose oil anymore then i may have to stick with conventional.
i was right about the noise being the timing chain but it was cause bu a larger problem.
tech drained the oil and only 1 F'ing quart came out!!! now i just chained the oil 2 months ago and used amsoil. i checked the level about a month ago and it was fine. the timing chain wasnt get lubricated so it was making the noise.
so i went to pick up my car and asked to speak to the tech. i was talking to him right next to the service manager. the manager said to come back in 1,000 miles so they could check the level and they would go from there. so i asked the tech what the oil looked like. he said, "it was really dark. the car looks like it was driven hard" i said, "or maybe its dark cause there was only 1 quart of oil in it!! why would you think it was run hard?" he replied, "all the performance mods" (typical dealership response) so i said, "thats not evidence that the car was run hard. you cant just say the car was run hard because i have mods. thats not evidence" he kinda laughed and said something about the tires being more worn on the outside.
so i go pay the cashier $25 for my "oil change" and started walking to my car. i saw the tech out smoking and went to talk to him away from his service manager. i said "the tires are like that because i autocrossed 2 weeks ago but that wouldnt cause the car to burn oil. 'driving a car hard' wont cause a problem" he laughed and said "i know thats not what caused it. i drive hard to. call me when you are close to 1,000 miles and i'll check the oil and look at it for you" then we talked about my car and he was saying how nice it was and that he loved the feel of the shifter when he first got in it.
he seems to think the oil was burning because it was synthetic. my car had only had conventional in it before me (35K miles) and the seals had gotten used to it. synthetic is thinner (higher viscosity) so when the oil pressure is high (high RPMs) the oil might have leaked into the cylinder and burned. synthetic doesnt smoke when it burns so i never noticed it. he said if it doesnt lose oil anymore then i may have to stick with conventional.
06-29-2005, 01:50 PM
#14
RSX tend to rattle when oil is low also, its due to not having enough oil pressure holding up the timing chain tensioner in place.
As for the oil being changed from dino oil to synthetic, that is a myth, I've done it on my SEntRa years ago at around 90K miles and I never experienced any leaks or oil burning.
Think of it this way, keep synthetic in it- they will give you a new motor, and you will have a almost new drive train
I run synthetic oil in my Maxima since 1K miles, when I did my 1st oil change. I have 2900 miles on the oil now, and the dip stick says FULL every morning, and this is with 120K miles on the odo. I'm changeing my oil tomorrow, Mobil 1 as usuall, every 3K miles.
As for the oil being changed from dino oil to synthetic, that is a myth, I've done it on my SEntRa years ago at around 90K miles and I never experienced any leaks or oil burning.
Think of it this way, keep synthetic in it- they will give you a new motor, and you will have a almost new drive train
I run synthetic oil in my Maxima since 1K miles, when I did my 1st oil change. I have 2900 miles on the oil now, and the dip stick says FULL every morning, and this is with 120K miles on the odo. I'm changeing my oil tomorrow, Mobil 1 as usuall, every 3K miles.
06-29-2005, 02:07 PM
#16
Originally Posted by GBAUER
the 3.5's seem to burn FAR more oil than the 3.0's ever burnt. I think it's a flaw in the design. Make them replace the rings.
i just didnt know this and didnt check it enough. i did put a lot of miles on the car in a month inclucing a trip to TN. we shall see what happens when i take it back in 1000 miles.
and i agree..the oil level on my 00 NEVER went down
06-29-2005, 02:08 PM
#17
weird, I hear the rattle on startup but I think that's the 3.0's timing chain TSB issue... I switched to Mobil 1 5W-30 after ~30-35K miles and mine's never burned oil too badly. (but then it is a 3.0)
06-29-2005, 02:12 PM
#19
Make sure to check your oil in the moring to get the best results. Oil runs down back into the oil pan reaaaaally slowly and you will get HIGHLY inaccurate readings on the dipstick- I hope Nissan knows that when they checked your oil level, hey if not its just them idiots who are gonna have to put a shortblock in your car.
You might wanna try 20W50 oil in the summer, I used to run that in the summer of last year. I also get start up clatter from the timing chain tensioner but I developed a technique with starting up my car in order to stop the chain from rattleing Eventually I will do the tensioner and waterpump, but for now its fine.
You might wanna try 20W50 oil in the summer, I used to run that in the summer of last year. I also get start up clatter from the timing chain tensioner but I developed a technique with starting up my car in order to stop the chain from rattleing
Eventually I will do the tensioner and waterpump, but for now its fine.
06-29-2005, 02:18 PM
#20
Originally Posted by GBAUER
Oh, and it's nice to know that the rattle is a sign to buy more oil. I'll make sure I listen for it (not too tough since I have the non-blows stock stereo...)
06-29-2005, 02:24 PM
#21
I was just kidding about that. I actually have 118k on my '03 now. I check it every other day because of the driving I do, HOWEVER, regardless of the oil level, the chain still wants to rattle from time to time. I think I have to crack open the case and check the tensioner.
07-07-2005, 03:09 PM
#24
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 4
I have that rattle too, but when idle.
I've been told it's the water pump, timing chain/tensioner.
The wierd thing is it's so loud I can't pin point it up top.
Took it to a dealership who charged me $60 to tell me my upper cat was causing the noise. Bought a y-pipe, installing tomorrow. Will know if that solved it.
I've been told it's the water pump, timing chain/tensioner.
The wierd thing is it's so loud I can't pin point it up top.
Took it to a dealership who charged me $60 to tell me my upper cat was causing the noise. Bought a y-pipe, installing tomorrow. Will know if that solved it.
07-07-2005, 04:05 PM
#25
I don't have the rattle but i have noticed that my 03 6 speed seems to burn some oil, but my 02 auto never did. I always used mobil 1 in my 02 and never had a problem. I just got the 03 and the oil was changed by the dealer but i plan to go back to mobil 1. I don't believe syn oil has anything to do with the 3.5 burning oil
07-19-2005, 02:02 PM
#27
Just an FYI. On Sunday, I got an oil change and was going to get the full flush, but it wasn't available. Then I got the bright idea that I'd try using Stop Leak in the oil to reduce my blow-by. Can't tell if it made a difference, however, because within a about a quarter mile, I started throwing SES codes and the car ran rough (misfiring). Took it to Autozone today to get the codes pulled and found out that the cam shaft position actuator was one code and the other was a multiple misfire (probably due to the actuator). I went straight to the closest dealer without thinking and told them that I just had the "voluntary" recall performed. Luckily, for once, they couldn't get me in. Once I had a chance to cool off a bit and think, I took it to Jiffy Lube, had the engine flushed and the oil and filter replaced, and vola! The car ran smooth again. Long story short, don't use stop-leak. It'll mess up the engine. However, I'll repost Friday (after another 250 miles or so) and let you all know if the blow-by is reduced. The oil should be about 1/4" below the full line if the stop-leak didn't help. If it did help at all, it may be a temporary solution provided you don't put too much in and you completely flush the engine after about 200 miles or so.
07-20-2005, 02:27 PM
#29
Update: here's Nissan's response to an inquirery I had regarding the oil burn issue. In my original inquirery (on their website, so I don't have a copy), I told them that the dealerships were basically saying I'm SOL and I was looking for a better, more knowlegable response. Read his reply to my initial inquirery at the bottom, then try to understand why I got a little miffed...
Alex,
I've contacted several dealerships, all of which have said that they would recommend replacing the engine, not repairing it. As I stated in my website request, this problem is universal, and, as far as I can tell from all the forums and websites pertaining to the VQ35, has not been fixed yet. If I wanted an engine that was only good for 100,000 miles, I would have bought Mazda's RX-8. I purchased my maxima believing that it would last for at least 200,000 miles with good maintenance on the basis of the VQ30's reputation. I'm not looking for Nissan to replace my engine. If that was done, I'd be in the same position in another 100k miles. I fully intend to tear this engine down myself and rebuild it. I suspect that the blow-by is due to the rings being either too soft or too brittle of a material, but if it's the piston walls, I will have to have the engine bored out and re-sleeved at a machine shop. Please do not refer me to a dealership because, as I'm sure you know, 99.99% of the mechanics employed by your fine dealerships know how to read a computer print-out better than they can change a spark plug.
Also, below is my e-mail sent to Pat Goss, of Goss's Garage, a local radio show in Washington DC that centers around car care and maintenance. I've spoken with Pat before and am fairly confident he will read this e-mail on the air this weekend. If necessary to get some kind of action out of Nissan, I will write, call, and e-mail every automobile publication I can find and encourage the 10,000 members of Maxima.org to do the same.
"Pat,
I listen to your show whenever I'm driving on the weekends and have learned to respect your knowledge, and, most importantly, your way to sifting through the guys who just don't want to listen. I drive a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE, am a member of Maxima.org, and am involved with a few local car clubs. I have 120,000 miles on my car due to my occupation (sales) and within the last 30-40k miles, I've been gradually burning more and more oil. At this point, I'm going through a quart every 750 miles. Recently, I've been reading more and more posts on the internet about people hitting around 75-80k miles on the 3.5 and also burning oil. This seems to be universal: modded or not, synthetic or standard oil. It doesn't seem to matter what has been done to the car or how it is maintained. In fact, it is so bad that every single 3.5 approaching 100k has this problem. That lead me into doing some more research and I'm finding that it's not just the maxima's that are doing this, it's every Nissan product with a 3.5; the 350Z, the G35, the 3.5 Alti, the Frontier. Every last one of them. From your experience, do you think there's any chance Nissan will address this issue? If not, have you heard of any changes to the rings or piston linings that Nissan has done to correct it on the newer 3.5's? I bought this car because of the strong reputation of Nissan's 3.0 liter, but now, sadly, I'm regretting my decision. I absolutely love this car to the point that my wife calls it my mistress. Please help me keep my lady healthy!"
George Bauer
-----Original Message-----
From: nnaconsumeraffairs@nissan-usa.com [mailto:nnaconsumeraffairs@nissan-usa.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 3:34 PM
To: gwb@sthinc.com
Subject: Re: My vehicle needs repair. [INTR:218558]
Dear Mr. Bauer,
Thank you for taking the time to personally contact us. We recommend contacting your local Nissan dealership for technical review and assistance in regards to our product line. You can locate your nearest dealership using our Dealer Locator: http://www.NissanUSA.com/global/deal...or/1,,,00.html.
Thank you again for taking the time to contact us with your question.
Sincerely,
Alex M.
Nissan North America
> ---- Original Message ----
> From : nnaconsumeraffairs@nissan-usa.com
> To : NNAConsumerAffairs@nissan-usa.com
> Subject : My vehicle needs repair. [INTR:218558]
> Date : Fri, 15 Jul 2005 12:31:46 GMT
>
>
> <firstname>George</firstname>
> <lastname>Bauer</lastname>
> <owner>true</owner>
> <comments>I have a 2003 Maxima SE with 120,000 miles on it. In fact, I have about 30k more miles on my 5.5 generation maxima than any other member of Maxima.org. At 103,000 miles, I had to have my transmission replaced by Victory Nissan in Gaithersburg, MD (Feb. of this year) and now I'm burning about a quart of oil per fill-up. From speaking with other memebers of Maxima.org, I'm finding out that all the other 3.5 owners with milage from 60k and up are also seeing a drastic loss of oil. This seems to be a universal problem as I have not found one single VQ35 with over 70k miles who isn't burning oil. Has Nissan investigated this problem? If so, have you found a solution short of a total rebuild? Even with 120,000 miles with me in the driver's seat, I still love my Maxima and DO NOT want to get rid of it, but I bought the car believing that the qualitly of it was far superior to that of American cars. I'm now questioning my assumptions. Any help would be appreciated.</comments>
Alex,
I've contacted several dealerships, all of which have said that they would recommend replacing the engine, not repairing it. As I stated in my website request, this problem is universal, and, as far as I can tell from all the forums and websites pertaining to the VQ35, has not been fixed yet. If I wanted an engine that was only good for 100,000 miles, I would have bought Mazda's RX-8. I purchased my maxima believing that it would last for at least 200,000 miles with good maintenance on the basis of the VQ30's reputation. I'm not looking for Nissan to replace my engine. If that was done, I'd be in the same position in another 100k miles. I fully intend to tear this engine down myself and rebuild it. I suspect that the blow-by is due to the rings being either too soft or too brittle of a material, but if it's the piston walls, I will have to have the engine bored out and re-sleeved at a machine shop. Please do not refer me to a dealership because, as I'm sure you know, 99.99% of the mechanics employed by your fine dealerships know how to read a computer print-out better than they can change a spark plug.
Also, below is my e-mail sent to Pat Goss, of Goss's Garage, a local radio show in Washington DC that centers around car care and maintenance. I've spoken with Pat before and am fairly confident he will read this e-mail on the air this weekend. If necessary to get some kind of action out of Nissan, I will write, call, and e-mail every automobile publication I can find and encourage the 10,000 members of Maxima.org to do the same.
"Pat,
I listen to your show whenever I'm driving on the weekends and have learned to respect your knowledge, and, most importantly, your way to sifting through the guys who just don't want to listen. I drive a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE, am a member of Maxima.org, and am involved with a few local car clubs. I have 120,000 miles on my car due to my occupation (sales) and within the last 30-40k miles, I've been gradually burning more and more oil. At this point, I'm going through a quart every 750 miles. Recently, I've been reading more and more posts on the internet about people hitting around 75-80k miles on the 3.5 and also burning oil. This seems to be universal: modded or not, synthetic or standard oil. It doesn't seem to matter what has been done to the car or how it is maintained. In fact, it is so bad that every single 3.5 approaching 100k has this problem. That lead me into doing some more research and I'm finding that it's not just the maxima's that are doing this, it's every Nissan product with a 3.5; the 350Z, the G35, the 3.5 Alti, the Frontier. Every last one of them. From your experience, do you think there's any chance Nissan will address this issue? If not, have you heard of any changes to the rings or piston linings that Nissan has done to correct it on the newer 3.5's? I bought this car because of the strong reputation of Nissan's 3.0 liter, but now, sadly, I'm regretting my decision. I absolutely love this car to the point that my wife calls it my mistress. Please help me keep my lady healthy!"
George Bauer
-----Original Message-----
From: nnaconsumeraffairs@nissan-usa.com [mailto:nnaconsumeraffairs@nissan-usa.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 3:34 PM
To: gwb@sthinc.com
Subject: Re: My vehicle needs repair. [INTR:218558]
Dear Mr. Bauer,
Thank you for taking the time to personally contact us. We recommend contacting your local Nissan dealership for technical review and assistance in regards to our product line. You can locate your nearest dealership using our Dealer Locator: http://www.NissanUSA.com/global/deal...or/1,,,00.html.
Thank you again for taking the time to contact us with your question.
Sincerely,
Alex M.
Nissan North America
> ---- Original Message ----
> From : nnaconsumeraffairs@nissan-usa.com
> To : NNAConsumerAffairs@nissan-usa.com
> Subject : My vehicle needs repair. [INTR:218558]
> Date : Fri, 15 Jul 2005 12:31:46 GMT
>
>
> <firstname>George</firstname>
> <lastname>Bauer</lastname>
> <owner>true</owner>
> <comments>I have a 2003 Maxima SE with 120,000 miles on it. In fact, I have about 30k more miles on my 5.5 generation maxima than any other member of Maxima.org. At 103,000 miles, I had to have my transmission replaced by Victory Nissan in Gaithersburg, MD (Feb. of this year) and now I'm burning about a quart of oil per fill-up. From speaking with other memebers of Maxima.org, I'm finding out that all the other 3.5 owners with milage from 60k and up are also seeing a drastic loss of oil. This seems to be a universal problem as I have not found one single VQ35 with over 70k miles who isn't burning oil. Has Nissan investigated this problem? If so, have you found a solution short of a total rebuild? Even with 120,000 miles with me in the driver's seat, I still love my Maxima and DO NOT want to get rid of it, but I bought the car believing that the qualitly of it was far superior to that of American cars. I'm now questioning my assumptions. Any help would be appreciated.</comments>
07-20-2005, 02:36 PM
#30
Originally Posted by sosick
i also hear that when i sit and rev my engine or when i cut my car off
4k left on warranty
anxious to see what they find...
07-21-2005, 03:47 AM
#34
Originally Posted by Gears & Crosses
GBAUER,
Do you have pressure in the crankcase? I am curious since you say you have blow-by.
Gears
Do you have pressure in the crankcase? I am curious since you say you have blow-by.
Gears
07-21-2005, 05:44 PM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 132
The timing chain tensioners are a bad design 02-03. They fixed it in 04 with tensioners with no holes in them so the oil cant drain out on start up and during operation i suppose. Its what I heard from the dealer. They said "fixing" the problem usually results in little to no change.
It's so invasive I would pass anyway. I have minor rattle at start up and rattling during 2kish. Friend w/ a frontier has the same thing, but 3.0.
And that 80k mile lots of oil burning thing freaks me out.
It's so invasive I would pass anyway. I have minor rattle at start up and rattling during 2kish. Friend w/ a frontier has the same thing, but 3.0.
And that 80k mile lots of oil burning thing freaks me out.
07-21-2005, 08:23 PM
#37
I'm pretty sure I just had this problem with my 02 auto not even two weeks ago. The rattle that comes from the passenger side (the same one that occurs during a cold start) started occuring while I was actually driving the car. I seriously thought it was going to be a timing chain tensioner problem.
I took it to get looked at (not at the stealership) and they said that it was not the timing chain tensioner at all, but, rather, the serpentine belt tensioner. Apparently the existing one was wobbling in place and the belt would slip off a little bit sometimes. The belt of course got all chewed up in the process. They replaced the damaged belt and stuck in a new tensioner for about $100 and the noise was gone.
I took it to get looked at (not at the stealership) and they said that it was not the timing chain tensioner at all, but, rather, the serpentine belt tensioner. Apparently the existing one was wobbling in place and the belt would slip off a little bit sometimes. The belt of course got all chewed up in the process. They replaced the damaged belt and stuck in a new tensioner for about $100 and the noise was gone.
07-21-2005, 08:25 PM
#38
Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 250
Originally Posted by GBAUER
No chance to do any professional testing yet, however, I can tell you that if I take off the oil fill cap while it's running, I have a little more pressure than normal.
Gears
07-21-2005, 08:30 PM
#39
Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 250
Originally Posted by MFLCON
I'm pretty sure I just had this problem with my 02 auto not even two weeks ago. The rattle that comes from the passenger side (the same one that occurs during a cold start) started occuring while I was actually driving the car. I seriously thought it was going to be a timing chain tensioner problem.
I took it to get looked at (not at the stealership) and they said that it was not the timing chain tensioner at all, but, rather, the serpentine belt tensioner. Apparently the existing one was wobbling in place and the belt would slip off a little bit sometimes. The belt of course got all chewed up in the process. They replaced the damaged belt and stuck in a new tensioner for about $100 and the noise was gone.
I took it to get looked at (not at the stealership) and they said that it was not the timing chain tensioner at all, but, rather, the serpentine belt tensioner. Apparently the existing one was wobbling in place and the belt would slip off a little bit sometimes. The belt of course got all chewed up in the process. They replaced the damaged belt and stuck in a new tensioner for about $100 and the noise was gone.
Gears
07-21-2005, 08:39 PM
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Southern MA
Posts: 833
dont know how i missed this thread but i have the same noise around the same rpm range when cruising or revving it in idle as it reaches those rpm's sounds just like that cold start rattle as stated before. i'm going to take it to the dealer before my warranty runs up for that and my ses light for p0138