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Rear caliper question????

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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 05:22 AM
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Rear caliper question????

I got a 00 gle, i already replace the rear right caliper, however i`m getting the same clunking sound as b4, everytime you go over a bump or pothole the damm caliper makes that sound,even when the car is park you could still shake the caliper...any ideas on how to fix this problem permanently!
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 06:10 AM
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tighten up whatever bolt is loose. something isnt secured tightly/properly in there.
Meanwhile, my rear brake isnt releasing fully, so now it scrapes along the rotor as you drive. Even when i take the wheel off and spin the rotor, same issue : pads are depressed against rotor, scraping noise,friction. Ever have that issue? I dont even know where to start with that, could be many things from what i've been reading.
You need to find out what isnt connected properly,or rather WHERE the caliper isnt secured like it should be.
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Melaza
I got a 00 gle, i already replace the rear right caliper, however i`m getting the same clunking sound as b4, everytime you go over a bump or pothole the damm caliper makes that sound,even when the car is park you could still shake the caliper...any ideas on how to fix this problem permanently!
Something is not secured. It may be the caliper itself, or the torque member (the bracket that the caliper mounts to).
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by instil
Meanwhile, my rear brake isnt releasing fully, so now it scrapes along the rotor as you drive. Even when i take the wheel off and spin the rotor, same issue : pads are depressed against rotor, scraping noise,friction. Ever have that issue? I dont even know where to start with that, could be many things from what i've been reading.
Your problem is either a sticking parking brake cable (from a bent bracket, corroded cable, missing spring, etc.), a seized caliper piston or seized caliper pins.

Depending on how long the condition has been present, you might need to replace the pads/rotors (both rear axles) once you find the root cause.
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by njmodi
Your problem is either a sticking parking brake cable (from a bent bracket, corroded cable, missing spring, etc.), a seized caliper piston or seized caliper pins.

Depending on how long the condition has been present, you might need to replace the pads/rotors (both rear axles) once you find the root cause.
Been like that for a month,roughly (yea i know, im lazy tho)

If its the parking brake cable, this would affect both rear wheels correct? or not neccesarily? My next step was going to be to take off the caliper/pad and clean everything (check hoses best i can, little rubber things on the caliper,etc) Plus, my pads and shims are easily able to be moved around in all directions. Gonna be a long weekend
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by instil
Been like that for a month,roughly (yea i know, im lazy tho)

If its the parking brake cable, this would affect both rear wheels correct? or not neccesarily? My next step was going to be to take off the caliper/pad and clean everything (check hoses best i can, little rubber things on the caliper,etc) Plus, my pads and shims are easily able to be moved around in all directions. Gonna be a long weekend
Check your PM. No need to ***** the OPs thread.
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 06:44 AM
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I recently had the rear caliper binding issue, but rear driver side.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....81750#poststop

Basically, check that everything is tight and all bolts are where they are supposed to be. If it's a binding issue take it apart and make sure the slider pins are properly greased etc.


If you need some parts info you can look hear:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....93940#poststop

Hope that helps
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 07:04 AM
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Woosh, what ended up being your problem?Mine is read driver side too. im hoping i can fix it by cleaning out everything and regreasing the pins. But i never EVER use my ebrake, so thats probably effed from lack of use,i wouldnt be suprised.
Yo Melaza, sorry to take your post a bit off topic. Ill start a new one if i have more questions. i think youll be able to easily fix your problem though...and if you dont see anything loose, check out the other side and compare.
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by instil
Woosh, what ended up being your problem?Mine is read driver side too. im hoping i can fix it by cleaning out everything and regreasing the pins. But i never EVER use my ebrake, so thats probably effed from lack of use,i wouldnt be suprised.
Yo Melaza, sorry to take your post a bit off topic. Ill start a new one if i have more questions. i think youll be able to easily fix your problem though...and if you dont see anything loose, check out the other side and compare.
Don`t worry about the post...we are here to help each other... i already clean and grease up everything and yet the same problem!
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 01:15 PM
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Melaza.... check all the bolts.. I think you have a problem with your screws, take them out and inspect them..if they are ok... tight them as hard as you can. Your rear caliper is loose... As for the ebrake.. I doubt it. it might make a noise but as you are describing it. Take care...
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Lontar1
Melaza.... check all the bolts.. I think you have a problem with your screws, take them out and inspect them..if they are ok... tight them as hard as you can. Your rear caliper is loose... As for the ebrake.. I doubt it. it might make a noise but as you are describing it. Take care...

^^^right. yea melaza, your caliper is banging around because it is not fully secured, or screwed/bolted in all the way. You dont need any grease, you need to check which bolt/screw isnt staying tight. Like i said earlier, compare it to the wheel on the other side if you dont see where its loose and should be tightened in. Theres not that many nuts back there for you to remove,so check them out.

As far as my e-brake, i was thinking MAYBE, my pad is pressed against the rotor because the ebrake cable rusted and snapped, or is just dirty and stuck, so it wont release as much as it should. It looks like the pad on the passenger rear wheel is dragging on the rotor too, but i dont have that noise over there.
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Lontar1
tight them as hard as you can.
You've got to be kidding...

Don't give out such grossly wrong advice. Neither the torque member nor the caliper pins are supposed to be that tight. The torque member needs to be tightened to 28-38 ft-lbs and the caliper pins to 16-32 ft-lbs.
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 01:35 PM
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i have only had one problem with my raer calipers and thats when i changed the pads. pads would be fine for a week then start to rub or squeak, took them off and they were cracked down the middle happen about 5 or six times after that until i decided to put shims on took cars of everything
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by instil
Woosh, what ended up being your problem?Mine is read driver side too. im hoping i can fix it by cleaning out everything and regreasing the pins. But i never EVER use my ebrake, so thats probably effed from lack of use,i wouldnt be suprised.
Hey instil,

I took apart and regreased slider pins but binding was still occurring. I ended up replacing the rear driver side caliper thru Daveb. I will do the replacement tomorrow.

I'd rule out the hand brake theory because I use my handbrake alot when parked.

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions you think I may be able to help with.


Excuses are the tools of losers ~ asl
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 02:29 PM
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Oh, i thought you changed it already. Im curious to see if everything works as it should when you change it. My fear is I'll buy new calipers and the problem wont go away, because its caused by clogged or dirty brake fluid hoses,etc. Are you getting new pads or rotors also?

Melaza I'm out of your thread so you can get some clear answers on your problem without reading my ish.
Any advice for me regarding this...holla at me in my wheel bearing thread
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by njmodi
You've got to be kidding...

Don't give out such grossly wrong advice. Neither the torque member nor the caliper pins are supposed to be that tight. The torque member needs to be tightened to 28-38 ft-lbs and the caliper pins to 16-32 ft-lbs.
Why would I be? How hard can you tight a screw? unless you are Hulk then he might have a problem...........
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 02:37 PM
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Thanks 4 all the replys....the calipers were loose(duhhhh) it seems that whoever had the car before did a lousy job and they even put the wrong caliper pins, anyway everything is all good now!
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 02:52 PM
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So you actually replaced that caliper in the past for this same problem?? Then the new one wasnt secured properly either?! Or is the one you replaced different from the one you just fixed.

As far as proper torque, i dont have the tools to measure, so I basically tighten everything up with a ratchet, then give it a slight bit extra. Im not leaning back like tug of war,tightening it up all crazy... but I do the same thing im sure lots of people here (the org) do.
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 02:59 PM
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Yeap....i bought one (the right rear) like two months ago, now the problem this time was the left one...but this time i did it myself....as far as the tools a ratchet and a few sockets, that`s it!
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Lontar1
Why would I be? How hard can you tight a screw? unless you are Hulk then he might have a problem...........
Those caliper pins are fairly soft - I can imagine they would shear or strip if I "tighten it as much as I can by hand".... It's clear that you know "how tight is enough", but it's just dangerous giving that sort of advice to less experienced folks - who might take you literally and end up with sheared bolts/stripped threads etc.

Just my 2 cents.
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by njmodi
Those caliper pins are fairly soft - I can imagine they would shear or strip if I "tighten it as much as I can by hand".... It's clear that you know "how tight is enough", but it's just dangerous giving that sort of advice to less experienced folks - who might take you literally and end up with sheared bolts/stripped threads etc.

Just my 2 cents.
Yes you are 100% correct. I should have said as much as you can by hand.... Thanks for correcting me.....
Old Jul 1, 2005 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Lontar1
Yes you are 100% correct. I should have said as much as you can by hand.... Thanks for correcting me.....
Cheers man! Again - not trying to be hostile or anything... those of us who know our way around cars need to be careful giving out advice - many of the newbies probably take everything we say as gospel... scary... but true.
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