Testing MAF
#1
Testing MAF
I'm having problems with my car stalling while coming to stops, and I'm thinking that it could be the MAF. Is there a way to test it before replacing it since I have no codes to tell me. Thanks for any input.
#3
I'd try cleaning the throttle body first. Had similar stalling problem and cleaning the throttle body completely eliminated the problem. Easy to do it yourself. There's a helpful discussion somewhere on this forum with pictures and all.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#4
To echo 2248's question, is there a way to test the MAF? Also, is there a way to test the oxygen sensors as well? I got a P0170, did some research and someone posted that it could be the MAF. Either way, I'd like to drop my $100 only once to fix the problem. Any way to test the MAF?
#6
to test functionality of the MAF, here's a quick simple test. i've mentioned it a number of times but for some reason, it always gets ignored. blow into it. if the car shuts off, the MAF is good. if it statys on, that means the MAF's sensors aren't reading the values and sending them to the ECU. in other words, the car should react to your blowing into it.
i know, sounds too easy of a test, but it worked on my 91GXE and it ended up being an ECU issue. the MAF was perfectly fine. again, if it shuts off, that's a good thing. A/F ratio's are uneven, thus causing the car to cough, and if enough air is blown in, it shuts off.
hope this works out.
i know, sounds too easy of a test, but it worked on my 91GXE and it ended up being an ECU issue. the MAF was perfectly fine. again, if it shuts off, that's a good thing. A/F ratio's are uneven, thus causing the car to cough, and if enough air is blown in, it shuts off.
hope this works out.
#7
good suggestion, but that only works on a MAF that isnt reading at all, which usually throws a CEL.
a contaminated MAF will just give a skewed reading, and blowing into it can and will throw you into a completely rich map causing a stall.
basically, if your car stalls from blowing into the maf, it doesnt mean the maf is good.
a contaminated MAF will just give a skewed reading, and blowing into it can and will throw you into a completely rich map causing a stall.
basically, if your car stalls from blowing into the maf, it doesnt mean the maf is good.
#8
Originally Posted by BewstAdd1ct
fully warmed up under no load, no a/c, etc output should be 1.2-1.8V
though stalling when coming to a stop sounds more IAC-ish. id start there first.
though stalling when coming to a stop sounds more IAC-ish. id start there first.
#9
either/or
a scanner would be better because you can get a g/s reading, but a DMM should work, for idle anyway. ck voltage at r/g pin4 at the MAF, should be B+. i think the red wire (which is the AVCC wire) is the VREF and white is the signal, AFAICT... only one will be in that range at idle
a scanner would be better because you can get a g/s reading, but a DMM should work, for idle anyway. ck voltage at r/g pin4 at the MAF, should be B+. i think the red wire (which is the AVCC wire) is the VREF and white is the signal, AFAICT... only one will be in that range at idle
#10
Originally Posted by BewstAdd1ct
either/or
a scanner would be better because you can get a g/s reading, but a DMM should work, for idle anyway. ck voltage at r/g pin4 at the MAF, should be B+. i think the red wire (which is the AVCC wire) is the VREF and white is the signal, AFAICT... only one will be in that range at idle
a scanner would be better because you can get a g/s reading, but a DMM should work, for idle anyway. ck voltage at r/g pin4 at the MAF, should be B+. i think the red wire (which is the AVCC wire) is the VREF and white is the signal, AFAICT... only one will be in that range at idle
#11
B+ is battery voltage, VREF is reference voltage, im not sure if thats what AVCC stands for, but id expect 5V from it. g/s is grams per second. only one wire should have that signal voltage on it at idle, id ck the white one on pin1.
#12
Maf
Wasup every body i have a 2002se 6spd max, the other day while racing a lancer evo my car started acting up when i pressed on the gas so i pulled over to the side after my check engine light came on, engine sounded fine, the car drives alright but if i go over 2500 rpms in any gear car starts to sputter, as long as i stay under that i can still drive around, took it to get the check engine light checked and these codes came up-p0102 maf sensor low input-p1102 manufacture controll fuel/air- and IAT sensor high input, my question is if the mass air flow sensor is bad could it be causing these other codes to pop up because of that?
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