It doesn't compress better. It's just denser to begin with.

 

I have a 2k1 Max Se 5sp, and it feels like crap when my car is cold, i dont feel no power. Maybe thats just me.

 

It depends on the car, but I ALWAYS wait for my Temp Gauge to come to full opperating temp before I will do any thing above 1/3 throttle on my VR-4. On my mom's Maxima I will wait till its just below operating temp, mainly cause the engine is less stressed then the motor in my VR-4.

 

I have a oil temp gauge in my whip, and it takes about 10 min of normal stop and go driving before the oil will warm up past 150F. Oil takes alot longer to warm up than coolant. In the winter time it will take me about 20 min of normal stop n go driving before I see 150F. I really don't beat on my car till I am getting on the highway- pretty much everywhere I drive is highway- and its bout 10 min before I get on it. I have alot of miles and the car is incredible. I don't see why it won't hit over 300K miles- its almost half way there with no signs of age what so ever.

 

thanks for the info, bird... whats the temp on startup, and what temp does the oil in your car become steady at under normal driving?

thx

 

Damn BlackBird nice info I run my 6 speed upto 2500rpm when it's cold and if im in a nih hurrry. If you run a cold engine and especially auto trans cold it will mess it very fast seen it on my past cars wouldn't recomend doing it to anyone.

 

Try a heat soaked LT1. LS series motors have composite intakes and are much less affected by heat soaking.

BlackBird had some great info.

Running a car with low oil temps at high rpms repeatedly can lead to oil pump cavitiation (although this is what I have heard, and usually cavitation is from overfilling?) and starvation of oil to some parts of the engine. Hot oil flows more easily.

 

Try doing a throttle body coolant bypass.

 

ok, after reading all of this let me make sure I get it - the drop in power I feel as my Max warms up is normal, and there is nothing I can do about it, correct? it's not dirty injectors, it's not the TB, or KS, or fuel filter, or plugs, or coils, or MAF or anything else. it is a fact of combustion.

Blackbird - you said the ECU goes to open loop operation at WOT. does this mean there is a delay in power if you suddenly go WOT from costing. the other day I went to pass a guy on the hwy and when I went WOT the car initially did nothing for a second or two, then kicked down a gear and took off. I was expecting instant power.

 

Did you have your air conditioner on? The engine hesitates when the compressor is running.

 

nope, no AC.