P1320-Ignition Signal, what would be the cause
#1
P1320-Ignition Signal, what would be the cause
Ok guys, start my car this morning first time of the day, the idle was little rough around 750-1000rpm, and then the light came on and the idle smooth again.
Run another 200 miles on highway and bring it to my favourite mechanic after work, pulled the code out read the P1320, oh forgot to mention, the car was run smooth as new after the light is on, doesn't have any problem restart the car. (I had made few stop at work) the idle was just back to normal like nothing happen before.
I had reset the ecu, the light never come on again till now(I had made few stop after the check up), the question is it there a early sign of something might be break soon?
The car right now at 79k miles, bought it used don't know about the spark plug has been change or not.
Run another 200 miles on highway and bring it to my favourite mechanic after work, pulled the code out read the P1320, oh forgot to mention, the car was run smooth as new after the light is on, doesn't have any problem restart the car. (I had made few stop at work) the idle was just back to normal like nothing happen before.
I had reset the ecu, the light never come on again till now(I had made few stop after the check up), the question is it there a early sign of something might be break soon?
The car right now at 79k miles, bought it used don't know about the spark plug has been change or not.
#4
ok, 1st of all, my ignition coils have the grey dot, and they have never been replaced. i checked.
2nd, did you pull another code? if you did, you should have pulled a P050X. the x denotes which cylinder is misfiring. if it's p0500, it's a multiple misfire.
anyway, it's most likely a coil. so here's what you do. warm up you car until it starts to show the same symptoms. then disconnect the coils 1 by 1. when you get to one that doesn;t make the engine bog, you've found the bad coil.
2nd, did you pull another code? if you did, you should have pulled a P050X. the x denotes which cylinder is misfiring. if it's p0500, it's a multiple misfire.
anyway, it's most likely a coil. so here's what you do. warm up you car until it starts to show the same symptoms. then disconnect the coils 1 by 1. when you get to one that doesn;t make the engine bog, you've found the bad coil.
#5
This 1320 is really pissing me off. Mine just came back from the shop after 2 days of NOT finding the problem. I've swapped coils and plugs. Car seems to run fine--I was getting intermittent P0134's a few months ago but they stopped and were replaced with P1320. I usually do not notice when the SES goes on, only once did it stumble before tripping SES, at low idle pulling out of a parking lot.
I've got an 100K EW with 11.5K left so no worries, but it's irritating to say the least. I am having serious doubts I will get the desired 175-200K miles out of this thing despite maintenance and TLC. Maybe she's just pissed cause there's a C5 Vette sitting in the garage ;-)
I've got an 100K EW with 11.5K left so no worries, but it's irritating to say the least. I am having serious doubts I will get the desired 175-200K miles out of this thing despite maintenance and TLC. Maybe she's just pissed cause there's a C5 Vette sitting in the garage ;-)
#6
Originally Posted by jjames
ok, 1st of all, my ignition coils have the grey dot, and they have never been replaced. i checked.
2nd, did you pull another code? if you did, you should have pulled a P050X. the x denotes which cylinder is misfiring. if it's p0500, it's a multiple misfire.
thats p03xx
but other than that, youre right on.
dvanorder, if youve got the CEL on and the fault present, the dealer has NO REASON not to find the fault, and fix the problem. its likely a coil, any experienced dealer tech will start there first, runa power balance and find the faulty cylinder, and swap coils to confirm any suspicion.
same goes for the thread starter. when you can catch it running rough, do what jjames said and unplug one coil at a time. the culprit will be the one that doesnt make the engine bog any further.
#7
check the ignition system not just the coils the system which the ecu uses to determine igniton timing is the air intake temp sensor, coolant temp sensor crankshaft position sensor (pos) crankshaft position sensor (ref) and camshaft positon sensor, i had the same code changed the coils reset the ecu and the code came back so i looked at the nissan service manual and all those sensors i mentioned is what the ecu use to determine the ignition timing thats why the ecu is tell (p1320 primary igniton at fault) meaning some where in the primary system theres a problem it turned out to be the air intake temp sensor thats part of the ignition circut most people dont even know that, also hanyes has a list of all the maxima sensor and what they are used for
#8
primary ignition is the low volage side of the coils. the control side. the 12V constant and a switched ground, wheras the secondary ignition is the secondary half of the coil, the electrodes and spark plugs. and in a conventional ign system, the spark plug wires, and cap and rotor if applicable.
#9
Originally Posted by 96sleepergle
check the ignition system not just the coils the system which the ecu uses to determine igniton timing is the air intake temp sensor, coolant temp sensor crankshaft position sensor (pos) crankshaft position sensor (ref) and camshaft positon sensor, i had the same code changed the coils reset the ecu and the code came back so i looked at the nissan service manual and all those sensors i mentioned is what the ecu use to determine the ignition timing thats why the ecu is tell (p1320 primary igniton at fault) meaning some where in the primary system theres a problem it turned out to be the air intake temp sensor thats part of the ignition circut most people dont even know that, also hanyes has a list of all the maxima sensor and what they are used for
#11
I think I got Jinxed by reading this post. j/k I come back from my vacation and my car throws the ignition coild code. . I sent dave B a email, hopefully he can help me out so I dont have to manwhore for money to buy new coils somewhere else.
#12
There's a TSB for this. It says that the problem is either ignition coils, or the engine wiring harness. This code usually comes about as a result of 1 or more bad coils.
Don't take it to a dealer, they will rip you a couple of new ones. My dealer wanted $700 for the coils and another $1500 to replace the engine harness. I ordered new coils for $260 and installed them in 15min. Problem fixed and it runs like a champ.
Don't take it to a dealer, they will rip you a couple of new ones. My dealer wanted $700 for the coils and another $1500 to replace the engine harness. I ordered new coils for $260 and installed them in 15min. Problem fixed and it runs like a champ.
#14
Originally Posted by BewstAdd1ct
you the original owner? and you checked all of your warranty invoices?
thats p03xx
but other than that, youre right on.
but other than that, youre right on.
#15
Originally Posted by callmezeus
Just wondering, where did you buy your coils from. I'm trying to shop around.
#17
check grounds by oil filler cap towards passenger side and towards firewall are two engine harness grounds.
check to make sure no excessive rust or corrossion or loose.
clean and/or tighten as necessary.
Possible harness breakage where harness goes over rear of motor on passenger side by firewall, shake it when car is running, if engine starts to hesitate or surge, you may have a harness condition.
check to make sure no excessive rust or corrossion or loose.
clean and/or tighten as necessary.
Possible harness breakage where harness goes over rear of motor on passenger side by firewall, shake it when car is running, if engine starts to hesitate or surge, you may have a harness condition.
#19
Originally Posted by 98&00Max
The light went off automaticaly, it's that means something? nothing had been done yet. any clue?
#21
Originally Posted by BewstAdd1ct
AFAIK, the 1320 isnt a misfire code, its an electrical failure code.
#24
#27
I may be sending you one of mine from the front bank #6; it failed after a few hundred miles---it's a 'new' 22448-2Y005. I wonder though, not all of them were sealed, the gray box tape was broken on a few of them. I am hoping the vendor will replace it since it did not even last 2 weeks. If I gotta eat it, a) I'll be real pissed and b) it's yours.
#29
$58 a piece. . Not Daves fault the price went up on them. Even still The stealership near my place wanted $98 each. And my friend who works for a Firestone would of only been able to get them for $68. Take those numbers and multiply them by six and I got some big savings from Dave. I replaced all of them to go ahead and get it out of the way. I need to check which one is faulty.
#31
Originally Posted by WhaMaxDoYaHave
I replaced my coils and I still get the 1320 code. No more problems with the idle though. I reset the comp but it still comes right back with the 1320 code. Whats the deal???
ecu through the dealer, how true is that? The dealers in my area are not
very helpful.
#32
I have the famous P1320 code and I changed all the coils. I notice on back coil on the passenger side when I unplug no change in the engine. I changed the coil pack with the one next to it and still nothing and I check the harness to the coil. Any ideas.
#33
Originally Posted by max2di4
I have the famous P1320 code and I changed all the coils. I notice on back coil on the passenger side when I unplug no change in the engine. I changed the coil pack with the one next to it and still nothing and I check the harness to the coil. Any ideas.
#36
i am having the same problem with reMaxxxK engine light came on couple times for the last month, and it went off it self, anyway it went on today went to Canadian tire for OBDII scaning, only P1320 came on...
symptom was car shakes a little when i crank start my car, SES, SLIP, ABS was on, but it only last no more then a minute.... the car runs perfect... so is that means 99% coil?
symptom was car shakes a little when i crank start my car, SES, SLIP, ABS was on, but it only last no more then a minute.... the car runs perfect... so is that means 99% coil?
#38
The TSB calls for the ECCS wiring harness to be checked for damage or broken. Are these wires that fragile? We are talking about the whole harness which runs to the computer and all, correct? I assume a dealer will have to do this?
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