I know alot of you guys are probably getting tired of me, but has anyone with a 5.5 used the aeromotive electronic fuel management unit? I know alot of you guys know about this fuel setup, but is it worth it? And will I really benefit from it if when I go boost. It seems simple to tune with a wideband 02, but I just wanted to know what you guys thought about it. I read the install and it seems pretty simple, but has anyone with a fuel returnless line tried it. Im all ears. Thanks. Also, here is a quick summary of this mod for the guys who haven't heard about it(im sure all of you have tho)

Aeromotive Billet Digital FMU, P/N 16303

For use with returnless fuel systems only.

The new Aeromotive Billet Digital FMU is a fully adjustable, scalable, electronic fuel pump controller. Used with an external in-line fuel pump, the Digital FMU creates a programmable FMU for use with returnless fuel systems. The Aeromotive FMU senses manifold pressure and automatically controls the external pump, providing the fuel pressure that you dial in. Now you can add forced induction to any returnless fuel system application and maintain the proper air/fuel ratio under all WOT operating conditions.

Referenced to manifold pressure, the Aeromotive Billet Digital FMU controls a supplemental, in-line pump (sold separately), to provide the required fuel flow volume for supercharged engines. Full adjustability allows the tuner to increase fuel rail pressure and injector flow throughout the boost curve.
The unique capability of the digital FMU, unlike traditional, fixed ratio mechanical FMUs, is to permit a custom pressure curve to be developed for each engine application. In other words, proper calibration can create a 2:1 boost to fuel pressure ratio at low boost, going up to 10:1 or more at high boost. Maximum fuel pressure will depend on the in-tank and secondary fuel pump size, along with injector flow rates.
The FMU features 5 independant adjustment bands that are tied to a scalable rotary ****. This allows you to set the boost scale so all 5 bands are usable for any forced induction system ranging from 5-15 PSI. LED indicator lights signal when the FMU is activated and which band it is currently operating on.
The housing of the controller is made out of Billet 6061-T651 aircraft aluminum alloy and is finished with a bright dip red anodize.

 

Might have better luck in the F/I forums.

 

Emanage blue or Emanage Ultimate would be best. Its proven and there are other members running the emanage unit so they can help you with problems you may encounter.

I am running the Emanage blue and it is very easy to hook up and use.

 

But what about emanage ultimate? They are testing this out right now on a vq30, and I will have to wait for the results. I don't want to get blue, because I will feel like I am taking a step back being that there is a new piggyback on the market. What do you think I should do? Go with the emanage ultimate?

 

Well it depends on how soon you plan on doing your turbo setup. If you are doing it right away then i would get the blue since it is proven and people can help you w/ problems. The ultimate is still up in the air as to whether the added functions will work on our car. There are a few things that should work w/ no problem but the functions that make the upgrade worth it are still up in the air. If you have the resources and able to understand and tune the car yourself i would say get the ultimate. If you are going for around 400hp the Blue will work fine.

I will say this though, i will be getting one as soon as they get that bish working on our maxi's

 

You mean it's still questionable on YOUR car, I have no question at all that it will work on MY car. And the only thing that would possibly hold you up is the
1º timing ring you have. Our timing ring (crank trigger) is identical to the one on the 350Z which Sharif has proven to work.

 

Well problem solved.

Btw what are the chances that the timming feature and the Rev Limiter feature will work on the 3.0L?

 

Ok, im staring my project in sept(thats when I turn 21 and can get the money that was left for me in a will) I have regular bolt on already: intake, exhaust,y-pipe,jic magic coilovers,fstb,rstb,rsb, but im going the turbo route asap. Looking for 12-15 psi, and doing over basically the whole motoristons, rods, valves, retainers,head studs, main head studs, the works. I want my setup to work and be reliable, that's why im asking so many questions because I hear alot of guys around me being turbo for 1 week then blowing up because of running untuned. I don't want this to happen, especially on a car I had for 5 months. So that's why im trying to see what's the best options out there for fuel management. And I appriciate all the help im getting, and also im learning more about my car that I didn't know before.

 

Why waste your money on new valves and retainers?

 

I dunno, just thought I would change it being that I was doing most of the motor over I said, "what the hell why not change as much as I can"? But since you said I don't need it then I won't, I forgot to add a metal head gasket also because I know I would need that running 12-15psi.

 

The stock head gaskets are metal and are holding up perfectly, specifically the 350Z three layer OE gasket.

You only need new retainers if you plan to use VERY aggressive cams. Your stock aluminum alloy retainers are already half the weight of titanium. The stock valves are fine too but it wouldn't be a bad idea to get the exhaust valves ceramic coated by Swain Tech.

 

Cool, damn im really loving maxima.org, im learning alot of things I probably would have never learned on my own. I was going to get cams, but then I figured why pay $1200+ for cams for 15hp, when im going boost and I can use that money to add another 1-2psi on my setup. But besides pistons/rods, what else do I REALLY have to change to run 12psi in the motor?

 

You really do have to change the rods and pistons to run 12+ psi on this engine. But you only need 6psi or less to hit the 400whp mark, especially with the turbo you're talking about.

IIRC the Greddy TT kits are hitting 400+ @ 5.5 psi. Someone corrrect me if I am wrong.

 

I searched and found this on another 350z webside, correct me if some of the info is wrong:

Greddy Twin Turbo with very conservative 7psi at 28 centigrades of temperature get 360hp on a/f 11.5:1-12.5:1 and 421lb/ft of torque.

Also I saw that ssr engineering's new twin turbo 60-1 kit is hitting 439WHP/449TQ @ 8.5 PSI.

Does these stats sound about right? And with me running a t3/60-1w/.63 a/r, I should be looking at something like 400+hp at 10psi? I saw that sr20den said that I should be looking at about 400+hp at 6 psi with this turbo. All I want to do is accomplish atleast 400whp, I don't care if it's 401@8psi I just want to hit the 400hp club(not that it hasn't been done before or anything because I know it has. Here is some more info on the turbo:

COMPRESSOR SPECS:T04S housing

flow: 61 lbs/min 781cfm
.70 A/R housing
60 TRIM wheel
TURBINE SPECS:T3
.63 A/R housing
HIGH FLOW 76 TRIM stg 3 wheel
oil lubricated centersection.
for use with external wastegate.
COMES STANDARD WITH 360 DEGREE THRUST BEARING!!!
supportable of 575whp!

With those stats, I assumed the turbo should start spooling at about 2500rpm on the vq35 and hit full boost at about 3500rpm. Does that sound right? Correct me if im wrong.Thanks.

 

DOn't know man

 

Those questions were more for the veterans, sorry for confusing you.

 

So, are you guys going to state what you feel about what I asked?