How do you squeeze the caliper back in to add new pads?

I put a C-clamp on the caliper piston but it does not budge. I tried cracking the bleader line. I think it has something to do with the parking brake. Is there a release or something?

Thanks!

 

Definately check to see if the parking brake is on or not. Also, make sure the line is loose, it could be sticking. Otherwise you may need to twist it to get it to go back in. Sometimes the back ones need to be spun back and will not compress. If that doesnt work check for nicks, cuts in the rubber seal. Your caliper may be frozen.

 

theres a special tool that you can rent at a local parts store, or a little cube that you can buy, they need to be spun and compressed at the same time.

 

Thanks very much. I was able to compress it with a c-clamp and turn it with channel locks. Man, what a pain!

 

Sorry, just saw this, but for a future reference you should be able to compress the piston just by turning it clockwise with a pair of channel lock pliers... Word of caution - watch not to rip the rubber boot and it helps if you moisturize it before you start turning it so it also does not rip from the torsion while the piston is being turned....

 

What happens if the rubber boot rips?

 

Dirt, dust, moisture and other foreign particles could get in and cause premature failure or jamming of the piston.

In, the future release the cap on the brake fluid reservoir (but don't remove it to minimize dust, etc getting in it) and then turn with a needle nose pliers. Insert it into any 2 the notches on the face of the piston (4 of them) or buy a tool from pepboys or autozone for about $10 - $12 (shaped like a box with studs on the edges, fits many different brakes).

Also, when it is fully compressed or compressed enough it has to face a certain way. It has to line up so that one of the notches on the face of the piston is at the bottom kinda like the pattern on a "+" so that the notch at the bottom slides over a tiny cylinder style bump on the back of the brake pad.


Also, you mentioned you opened the bleeder valve when you couldn't compress the piston, you may have let some air into the system. Bleeding the brakes is a 2 person job unless you have speedbleeders.

 

Thanks for the info. I think will get the tool next time.

I actually pulled the piston out to see how it worked. That's when I saw that you need to turn while compressing. So, I dumped a bunch of fluid and had to re-bleed.

I also found out the hard way about the slots and the bump. I had to pull it off again to re-align.

They seem to work well now. No more whirling and squeeks.

I have never has so much trouble doing breaks before. But, it was my first rear disk job. That's how you learn I guess.

 

You can turn them with needle nose plyers or by renting the caliper tool at AutoZone. I hope you didnt mess up the calipers when you used hte C-clamp on them.

 

it's safer to just rent or buy the tool it's no more than 7 bux. trying to turrn it with channel locks might scratch the side of the piston/ tear the dust boot harming the caliper.

 

don't buy those plastic squeeze type tools. It should look like a metal cube with holes for the ratchet and little tabs sticking out of it

 

or like this

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

the cube thingy looks like this:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

heres a better look at the first one, but its a lh thread:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

 

Buy the tool. $10 at Advanced Auto Parts. I needed it to "un-twist" the rubber boot after the nuckle heads at the shop who did my brake pads the first time didn't use a tool and twisted it. They wanted to replace the entire caliper! You will save time and energy.

 

I used a C-clamp with a little peice of wood in between the clamp and the piston so i wouldint damage the caliper.