INTERIOR OVERHAUL PROJECT IV - Bone & Black, Suede Interior Worklog!!!
11-27-2005, 09:17 AM
#485
Originally Posted by mendon99
guys why dont you make them yourself? they're very easy, and im sure metal is busy enough as it is
Yes, I am VERY busy, but always willing to make some cash on the side...
I will write-up a HOW TO right after I am done changing my spark plugs and powersteering fluid...but right now I need to run to pep boys for a magnetic socket.
11-27-2005, 01:54 PM
#487
Originally Posted by merovi
ordered 30 20,000mcd white LED's. live 2 min from radioshack. All i need is a writeup. can't wait man.
11-30-2005, 03:28 PM
#489
Originally Posted by ICULookN
No you don't, you just have to lower it as low as possible. It would be easier if you could take it off.
12-02-2005, 07:32 AM
#490
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 24
Nice
Very nice work, i am truly amazed!!! how much do you charge to make that center console, and where did u buy the moniter and dvd from. I have the auto clim. control thou, i dont know if that makes a diff. for you pricing wise. Again very nice work, you have to go to the Johnson Park meet next year I need to see this...
12-05-2005, 04:31 PM
#492
Originally Posted by SiCkMaX@aol.com
how much do you charge to make that center console
Originally Posted by rbrown81
Side question - are you good at diagnosing creaks and squeaks in the interior? I have mad creaks and squeeks.... Its driving me nuts!
12-05-2005, 04:34 PM
#493
ALRIGHT, so, here's a glimpse of what leather seat installation entails. It's nothing too arduous, although it's certainly not an undertaking for the meek.
First you need to unbolt the bottom of the seat and remove the OEM hog rings...
...then you might need to make a relief cut in the aftermarket clips like I did...
...then you need to reattach the aftermarket cover to the OEM hog ring locations...
...other modifications include having to cut out controls such as the powerseat motors.
First you need to unbolt the bottom of the seat and remove the OEM hog rings...
...then you might need to make a relief cut in the aftermarket clips like I did...
...then you need to reattach the aftermarket cover to the OEM hog ring locations...
...other modifications include having to cut out controls such as the powerseat motors.
12-05-2005, 04:36 PM
#494
Then simply reattach...
...there's all sorts of fun stuff to find like this cotter pin...
...installing the top is a real bish...lots of back and forth...
...other fun stuff includes cutting holes for the headrest pins!
...I though I had kmore pics than this. Guess I just wanted to get it done.
...there's all sorts of fun stuff to find like this cotter pin...
...installing the top is a real bish...lots of back and forth...
...other fun stuff includes cutting holes for the headrest pins!
...I though I had kmore pics than this. Guess I just wanted to get it done.
12-05-2005, 04:41 PM
#495
Ok, so, the next project I am undertaking involves putting a master switchboard for all of my LEDs and CCFLS. I will be putting this into the sunglasses holder, so let's get started! First off, we need to make our template. Just some simple tools needed...
...here's how we see it all spaced out.
Then I used a 5/8" bit to bore out the holes. I then enlarged the opening using my Dremel, and viola! We have our buttons in place! The paint did not take too kindly to all of the bending when boring out the holes, so I'll obviously have to go back and repaint it. The switches are not perfect, but about as close as these hands can get them.
HOLD FOR PIC...RESIZING
...here's how we see it all spaced out.
Then I used a 5/8" bit to bore out the holes. I then enlarged the opening using my Dremel, and viola! We have our buttons in place! The paint did not take too kindly to all of the bending when boring out the holes, so I'll obviously have to go back and repaint it. The switches are not perfect, but about as close as these hands can get them.
HOLD FOR PIC...RESIZING
12-05-2005, 07:07 PM
#500
Originally Posted by NOCturnalI30
Hey where did you get those buttons ive been lookin all over for white ones do you know where i can get any??? ALL IVE found are red ones
12-05-2005, 07:46 PM
#501
Found it thanks incase anyone is looking for them as well here is the link
http://www.thinkgeek.com/pcmods/cables/6ca5/
http://www.thinkgeek.com/pcmods/cables/6ca5/
12-05-2005, 10:08 PM
#503
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
Ok, so, the next project I am undertaking involves putting a master switchboard for all of my LEDs and CCFLS. I will be putting this into the sunglasses holder, so let's get started! First off, we need to make our template. Just some simple tools needed...
...here's how we see it all spaced out.
Then I used a 5/8" bit to bore out the holes. I then enlarged the opening using my Dremel, and viola! We have our buttons in place! The paint did not take too kindly to all of the bending when boring out the holes, so I'll obviously have to go back and repaint it. The switches are not perfect, but about as close as these hands can get them.
HOLD FOR PIC...RESIZING
...here's how we see it all spaced out.
Then I used a 5/8" bit to bore out the holes. I then enlarged the opening using my Dremel, and viola! We have our buttons in place! The paint did not take too kindly to all of the bending when boring out the holes, so I'll obviously have to go back and repaint it. The switches are not perfect, but about as close as these hands can get them.
HOLD FOR PIC...RESIZING
12-06-2005, 07:19 AM
#505
Originally Posted by nismos14
Are you worried about the paint getting like that in/on other parts of the car?
12-06-2005, 04:41 PM
#506
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,860
Regarding the seats, do hogrings pull down the middle crease? I'm seriously considering installing heated seats since it's gotten down into the teens.
Wonder if I can cut the heating element to provide a hole to pull the creases down through.
Wonder if I can cut the heating element to provide a hole to pull the creases down through.
12-07-2005, 05:52 AM
#508
Originally Posted by PandaXpress
hey metal....good job..question though...can you get a a pic of how you wired it..and possibly a description?...i was wondering if you need to put a fuse on it when running it to a live positive wire...you just ened to conenct one side of a positive wire...then some extra wire to what you need powered and so forth..correct?...lemme know..thx...gj by the way
Originally Posted by NewLoveI30
Regarding the seats, do hogrings pull down the middle crease? I'm seriously considering installing heated seats since it's gotten down into the teens.
Wonder if I can cut the heating element to provide a hole to pull the creases down through.
Wonder if I can cut the heating element to provide a hole to pull the creases down through.
THE PROJECT IS EXPECTED TO BE DONE BY DECEMBER 30TH.
12-07-2005, 08:28 PM
#509
Alright, time to put the DVD player in a better place. First we see the inital cut into the glovebox...
...and here we see how it starts to shape up.
ENTER MY WORLD.
Ugh. There's a fawking metal plate in the glovebox?! WTF?! Surprisingly, the steel is actually pretty tough here too, so this is something I will have to take to work tommorow and saw through using a metal disc grinder. This is a PRIME example of the kind of crap I have been fighting every step of the way...but, as always, I'll find a way around it!!!!
Evenso, I can at least get a dry fit of my brother's Alpine HU faceplate (thanks, Jes(for being asleep when I was trying this)) to see how it's going to look, barring some minor height adjustments.
Lastly, I spent the remainder of the evening starting to cut the wires for the button assembly previously posted. Unlike some people, I solder my wire to the crimp connectors and tape for full insulation. I'm ****.
...and here we see how it starts to shape up.
ENTER MY WORLD.
Ugh. There's a fawking metal plate in the glovebox?! WTF?! Surprisingly, the steel is actually pretty tough here too, so this is something I will have to take to work tommorow and saw through using a metal disc grinder. This is a PRIME example of the kind of crap I have been fighting every step of the way...but, as always, I'll find a way around it!!!!
Evenso, I can at least get a dry fit of my brother's Alpine HU faceplate (thanks, Jes(for being asleep when I was trying this)) to see how it's going to look, barring some minor height adjustments.
Lastly, I spent the remainder of the evening starting to cut the wires for the button assembly previously posted. Unlike some people, I solder my wire to the crimp connectors and tape for full insulation. I'm ****.
Yes u are officially the maxima custumization god
12-15-2005, 07:24 AM
#512
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 236
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
Lastly, here are the connectors I will be using to splice into the OEM wires...as you can see, this will allow me to switch between either my 5th gen or 4th gen cluster with ease.
...then I had to strip all 30-some wires, crimp the connector, then solder the wire. THIS SUCKED.
...alright, that's it for now...more pics and updates as things carry on!
...then I had to strip all 30-some wires, crimp the connector, then solder the wire. THIS SUCKED.
...alright, that's it for now...more pics and updates as things carry on!
Never mind. You're the most detailed/****/crazy/brave person here. I should know better.
12-15-2005, 10:04 AM
#514
Originally Posted by pikers
I assume you'll insulate those bare wires somehow?
Never mind. You're the most detailed/****/crazy/brave person here. I should know better.
Never mind. You're the most detailed/****/crazy/brave person here. I should know better.
12-16-2005, 02:00 PM
#517
Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Brave enough to drill holes through his door jambs!
Alright, I will try and provide update pics as things come along, but things are pretty slow it being the holiday season and all. Just a quick update is that I now have 8" woofers in the doors, drilled holes in the door panels for my tweets, and have domes in the kicks. All of the audio wire has been upgraded to stinger expert, and I am running a 3-way active steup off of 2 Arc Audio XXK amps.
BUT...I am having some PITA noise issues with the digital crossover/equalizer that must first be resloved.
12-17-2005, 10:38 PM
#518
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 115
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
...then I had to strip all 30-some wires, crimp the connector, then solder the wire. THIS SUCKED.
12-18-2005, 02:39 PM
#519
Alright, so now it's time to make the wires for the switchboard. There are a total of 18 wire leads that need to be run from the power source in the glovebox to the sunglasses holder. Here's how it all breaks down
SWITCH I - Center vent LEDs and door handle LEDs
SWITCH II - Underdash CCFLs
SWITCH III - Driverside map pocket CCFL
SWITCH IV - Passenger map pocket CCFL
SWITCH V - Driverside Underseat CCFL
SWITCH VI - Passengerside underseat CCFL
SWITCH VII - LCD Screen
SWITCH VIII - DVD Player
...the final two leads are for powering the in-button LED lines which will be run in series off of a BOSCH relay.
Now, in order to make the wires neat, I made the 18 leads using 18AWG KnuKonceptz wire, crimped spade connectors on each end, soldered the connector to the wire, electrical taped the end, and put a label on each wire. Then the wires were twisted together and taped in electrical tape. I used standeard black elec. tape for the first half, then ran out. SO, the only thing I had left was ceramic-fiber re-enforced elec tape, which was used for the remaining length. Here's how it looks...
I then ran this length from the sunglasses holder down the A-Pillar.
SWITCH I - Center vent LEDs and door handle LEDs
SWITCH II - Underdash CCFLs
SWITCH III - Driverside map pocket CCFL
SWITCH IV - Passenger map pocket CCFL
SWITCH V - Driverside Underseat CCFL
SWITCH VI - Passengerside underseat CCFL
SWITCH VII - LCD Screen
SWITCH VIII - DVD Player
...the final two leads are for powering the in-button LED lines which will be run in series off of a BOSCH relay.
Now, in order to make the wires neat, I made the 18 leads using 18AWG KnuKonceptz wire, crimped spade connectors on each end, soldered the connector to the wire, electrical taped the end, and put a label on each wire. Then the wires were twisted together and taped in electrical tape. I used standeard black elec. tape for the first half, then ran out. SO, the only thing I had left was ceramic-fiber re-enforced elec tape, which was used for the remaining length. Here's how it looks...
I then ran this length from the sunglasses holder down the A-Pillar.
12-18-2005, 02:42 PM
#520
Then it landed in where the glovebox will be.
I also made the cuts for the dvd player. I had to remove the back section because it was a real PITA to cut out the metal plate otherwise.
Here's how it all looks...I will paint it tommorow, clear coat on Tuesday, and likley install everything sometime between Wed/Thurs! The black stuff is a Rigid Parts Two-Part repair expoy I used to fill in the gaps.
I also made the cuts for the dvd player. I had to remove the back section because it was a real PITA to cut out the metal plate otherwise.
Here's how it all looks...I will paint it tommorow, clear coat on Tuesday, and likley install everything sometime between Wed/Thurs! The black stuff is a Rigid Parts Two-Part repair expoy I used to fill in the gaps.