20th Ann. 0-60 in over 8 secs. H E L P ! !
05-30-2001, 08:08 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 195
Is anyone having the same problem?!!
My 5 spd Maxima is doing 0-60 in over 8 secs. I have been driving 5 spds for over 17 yrs and do shift properly. I took the car to the dealer where I purchased it and they said the power on the car is fine. I then took it to a second Nissan dealer and fortunately the guy their (Maxima specialist) took the time to test drive my car. He noticed the lack of acceleration power. I clocked him at over 9 secs. We then tried a 2000 SE and I clocked him at just over 7 secs (DIFFERENCE OF 2 SECS). We then raced the two Maximas (2000 SE vs. 20th Ann.). He didn't just beat me, he smoked me (He did not beat me in the change of gears). What would anyone expect in a 2 sec. difference. I left the car so they can inspect it. Although they reset the computer and believe they did something to the throttle they concluded that the extra carpeting that I had underneath the accelerator was the cause of the problem. When I heard this over the phone I could not believe it (but did think it was worth paying $90.00 CAN. to have the 2 secs back). When I tried the car (instead of hitting the usual over 9 secs) I was just over 8 secs. I did not believe it at the beginning and don't believe it now; it was not the extra carpeting. It's just Nissan's way of finding an excuse to charge me.
Does anyone have advice? I don't find it fair to pay full price for a Maxima and still have to pay for them to probe.
The guy who drove my car says he needs hard facts to present to Nissan so they could do something (In the mean time I guess they just want me to pull out my wallet)
My 5 spd Maxima is doing 0-60 in over 8 secs. I have been driving 5 spds for over 17 yrs and do shift properly. I took the car to the dealer where I purchased it and they said the power on the car is fine. I then took it to a second Nissan dealer and fortunately the guy their (Maxima specialist) took the time to test drive my car. He noticed the lack of acceleration power. I clocked him at over 9 secs. We then tried a 2000 SE and I clocked him at just over 7 secs (DIFFERENCE OF 2 SECS). We then raced the two Maximas (2000 SE vs. 20th Ann.). He didn't just beat me, he smoked me (He did not beat me in the change of gears). What would anyone expect in a 2 sec. difference. I left the car so they can inspect it. Although they reset the computer and believe they did something to the throttle they concluded that the extra carpeting that I had underneath the accelerator was the cause of the problem. When I heard this over the phone I could not believe it (but did think it was worth paying $90.00 CAN. to have the 2 secs back). When I tried the car (instead of hitting the usual over 9 secs) I was just over 8 secs. I did not believe it at the beginning and don't believe it now; it was not the extra carpeting. It's just Nissan's way of finding an excuse to charge me.
Does anyone have advice? I don't find it fair to pay full price for a Maxima and still have to pay for them to probe.
The guy who drove my car says he needs hard facts to present to Nissan so they could do something (In the mean time I guess they just want me to pull out my wallet)
05-30-2001, 08:32 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 915
In all honesty, it sounds like you got lucky with that 2nd dealership because they bothered to test it against another car.. (most dealerships I've hear about would just give you the "car is operating as designed" line, sorta like the first one)... Definitely don't give up... (and why do you have to pay them for anything?? isn't it suppoed to be covered under the 3 year/36,000 mile bumper2bumper.... or is that different in canada??)
As for hard numbers to present Nissan, I believe that some seriously low dyno results could convince them(Nissan) to do something for free... After all, the sticker said 222hp...
-Tom Z.
As for hard numbers to present Nissan, I believe that some seriously low dyno results could convince them(Nissan) to do something for free... After all, the sticker said 222hp...
-Tom Z.
Originally posted by bramirez
Is anyone having the same problem?!!
My 5 spd Maxima is doing 0-60 in over 8 secs. I have been driving 5 spds for over 17 yrs and do shift properly. I took the car to the dealer where I purchased it and they said the power on the car is fine. I then took it to a second Nissan dealer and fortunately the guy their (Maxima specialist) took the time to test drive my car. He noticed the lack of acceleration power. I clocked him at over 9 secs. We then tried a 2000 SE and I clocked him at just over 7 secs (DIFFERENCE OF 2 SECS). We then raced the two Maximas (2000 SE vs. 20th Ann.). He didn't just beat me, he smoked me (He did not beat me in the change of gears). What would anyone expect in a 2 sec. difference. I left the car so they can inspect it. Although they reset the computer and believe they did something to the throttle they concluded that the extra carpeting that I had underneath the accelerator was the cause of the problem. When I heard this over the phone I could not believe it (but did think it was worth paying $90.00 CAN. to have the 2 secs back). When I tried the car (instead of hitting the usual over 9 secs) I was just over 8 secs. I did not believe it at the beginning and don't believe it now; it was not the extra carpeting. It's just Nissan's way of finding an excuse to charge me.
Does anyone have advice? I don't find it fair to pay full price for a Maxima and still have to pay for them to probe.
The guy who drove my car says he needs hard facts to present to Nissan so they could do something (In the mean time I guess they just want me to pull out my wallet)
Is anyone having the same problem?!!
My 5 spd Maxima is doing 0-60 in over 8 secs. I have been driving 5 spds for over 17 yrs and do shift properly. I took the car to the dealer where I purchased it and they said the power on the car is fine. I then took it to a second Nissan dealer and fortunately the guy their (Maxima specialist) took the time to test drive my car. He noticed the lack of acceleration power. I clocked him at over 9 secs. We then tried a 2000 SE and I clocked him at just over 7 secs (DIFFERENCE OF 2 SECS). We then raced the two Maximas (2000 SE vs. 20th Ann.). He didn't just beat me, he smoked me (He did not beat me in the change of gears). What would anyone expect in a 2 sec. difference. I left the car so they can inspect it. Although they reset the computer and believe they did something to the throttle they concluded that the extra carpeting that I had underneath the accelerator was the cause of the problem. When I heard this over the phone I could not believe it (but did think it was worth paying $90.00 CAN. to have the 2 secs back). When I tried the car (instead of hitting the usual over 9 secs) I was just over 8 secs. I did not believe it at the beginning and don't believe it now; it was not the extra carpeting. It's just Nissan's way of finding an excuse to charge me.
Does anyone have advice? I don't find it fair to pay full price for a Maxima and still have to pay for them to probe.
The guy who drove my car says he needs hard facts to present to Nissan so they could do something (In the mean time I guess they just want me to pull out my wallet)
05-30-2001, 09:14 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 915
Originally posted by WILLSE
every engine that nissan makes are not the same some are strong some are weak..... sounds to me like u have a weak one..... dyno it and u will have your answer!!
every engine that nissan makes are not the same some are strong some are weak..... sounds to me like u have a weak one..... dyno it and u will have your answer!!
WEAK??? man, it sounds like he's missing a good chunk of his HP in order to get 9's w/ a 5 spd...
I would assume there would be some quality testing before an engine is put into a car.. (am I correct?)., and even if there wasn't, he clearly did not receive the product he paid for. (he paid for a 227hp mean sports sedan... he got something which could easily be taken by your average camry (or worse!!! an acur... hahaa, i won't go there... )
Fight it man!!! You deserve every bit of what you paid for!!!
-Tom Z.
05-30-2001, 09:17 PM
#5
Originally posted by WILLSE
every engine that nissan makes are not the same some are strong some are weak..... sounds to me like u have a weak one..... dyno it and u will have your answer!!
every engine that nissan makes are not the same some are strong some are weak..... sounds to me like u have a weak one..... dyno it and u will have your answer!!
05-30-2001, 09:31 PM
#8
Originally posted by emax95
My results are in for my I30. I got 0-60 in 7.16 after only one pass. Not to bad but it's definatly not as good as the 0-60 in 5.44 I got with my SC and stuff.
My results are in for my I30. I got 0-60 in 7.16 after only one pass. Not to bad but it's definatly not as good as the 0-60 in 5.44 I got with my SC and stuff.
05-30-2001, 10:00 PM
#13
Originally posted by AznWontonboy
u got one hell of a fast 95 max.. do u think a 2000se could pull that?
u got one hell of a fast 95 max.. do u think a 2000se could pull that?
05-30-2001, 10:46 PM
#14
first...
I would check the obvious... GAS!!! change gas stations.
I will assume you are using 91+ and are not at a high altitude. Change brands of gas. there may be some detergent or something in the brand you are using... or water.
Secondly... Have the plugs and coils checked. There are cases of fuel fouled plugs, even on very low mileage cars.
Also, there are cases of bad coils.
there will be no codes stored with any of these. (usually), so service will blow you off.. they need check engine codes to get paid (kinda). No service light or stored code, they wont want to help you.
BTW, a reading on the Consult should be about $70 (or under warranty). You may have to beg to get them to swap out coils until they find a bad one.
not fun.
good luck
I will assume you are using 91+ and are not at a high altitude. Change brands of gas. there may be some detergent or something in the brand you are using... or water.
Secondly... Have the plugs and coils checked. There are cases of fuel fouled plugs, even on very low mileage cars.
Also, there are cases of bad coils.
there will be no codes stored with any of these. (usually), so service will blow you off.. they need check engine codes to get paid (kinda). No service light or stored code, they wont want to help you.
BTW, a reading on the Consult should be about $70 (or under warranty). You may have to beg to get them to swap out coils until they find a bad one.
not fun. good luck
05-31-2001, 09:41 AM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 110
Re: first...
Originally posted by TimW
I would check the obvious... GAS!!! change gas stations.
I will assume you are using 91+ and are not at a high altitude. Change brands of gas. there may be some detergent or something in the brand you are using... or water.
Secondly... Have the plugs and coils checked. There are cases of fuel fouled plugs, even on very low mileage cars.
Also, there are cases of bad coils.
there will be no codes stored with any of these. (usually), so service will blow you off.. they need check engine codes to get paid (kinda). No service light or stored code, they wont want to help you.
BTW, a reading on the Consult should be about $70 (or under warranty). You may have to beg to get them to swap out coils until they find a bad one. not fun.
good luck
I would check the obvious... GAS!!! change gas stations.
I will assume you are using 91+ and are not at a high altitude. Change brands of gas. there may be some detergent or something in the brand you are using... or water.
Secondly... Have the plugs and coils checked. There are cases of fuel fouled plugs, even on very low mileage cars.
Also, there are cases of bad coils.
there will be no codes stored with any of these. (usually), so service will blow you off.. they need check engine codes to get paid (kinda). No service light or stored code, they wont want to help you.
BTW, a reading on the Consult should be about $70 (or under warranty). You may have to beg to get them to swap out coils until they find a bad one.
not fun. good luck
Ford actually had the same problem with the Mustang Cobra last year. Some guy ran his '99 Cobra on a dyno and discovered that it wasn't even close to the HP (320 minus the loss at the wheels). So Ford recalled the Cobras and shut down production of new ones until the problem was corrected.
05-31-2001, 11:34 AM
#16
Old Fuddy Duddy
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
At least
Ford fessed up to the problem. I miss the service I got with my Probe GT. If it was broke they fixed. Period. Not Nissan. You have to brow beat them into submission before they will fix anything.
My question is if the car is under warranty, why should he have to pay for anything? Why can't they do troubleshooting without the aid of a computer. I program for a living and computers are not all they are cracked up to be. Based on the code, might not deliver all the answers necessary to diagnosing the problem.
Part of charging me(him, anybody)is to find the problem. I can read a printout as much as the next person so why should anybody have to pay 70 bucks for connecting a connector and reading a display/printout? I tell you the days of using your brain to troubleshoot are about dead.
The computer is only going to give you half the answer. You have to THINK about the information that it is giving you!
Sorry about the soap box but I hate dealing with garages that state "well the computer....". Fine what do YOU think the problem is?
My question is if the car is under warranty, why should he have to pay for anything? Why can't they do troubleshooting without the aid of a computer. I program for a living and computers are not all they are cracked up to be. Based on the code, might not deliver all the answers necessary to diagnosing the problem.
Part of charging me(him, anybody)is to find the problem. I can read a printout as much as the next person so why should anybody have to pay 70 bucks for connecting a connector and reading a display/printout? I tell you the days of using your brain to troubleshoot are about dead.
The computer is only going to give you half the answer. You have to THINK about the information that it is giving you!
Sorry about the soap box but I hate dealing with garages that state "well the computer....". Fine what do YOU think the problem is?
05-31-2001, 01:35 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
A couple of things to check-->
Originally posted by bramirez
Is anyone having the same problem?!!
My 5 spd Maxima is doing 0-60 in over 8 secs. I have been driving 5 spds for over 17 yrs and do shift properly. I took the car to the dealer where I purchased it and they said the power on the car is fine. I then took it to a second Nissan dealer and fortunately the guy their (Maxima specialist) took the time to test drive my car. He noticed the lack of acceleration power. I clocked him at over 9 secs. We then tried a 2000 SE and I clocked him at just over 7 secs (DIFFERENCE OF 2 SECS). We then raced the two Maximas (2000 SE vs. 20th Ann.). He didn't just beat me, he smoked me (He did not beat me in the change of gears). What would anyone expect in a 2 sec. difference. I left the car so they can inspect it. Although they reset the computer and believe they did something to the throttle they concluded that the extra carpeting that I had underneath the accelerator was the cause of the problem. When I heard this over the phone I could not believe it (but did think it was worth paying $90.00 CAN. to have the 2 secs back). When I tried the car (instead of hitting the usual over 9 secs) I was just over 8 secs. I did not believe it at the beginning and don't believe it now; it was not the extra carpeting. It's just Nissan's way of finding an excuse to charge me.
Does anyone have advice? I don't find it fair to pay full price for a Maxima and still have to pay for them to probe.
The guy who drove my car says he needs hard facts to present to Nissan so they could do something (In the mean time I guess they just want me to pull out my wallet)
Is anyone having the same problem?!!
My 5 spd Maxima is doing 0-60 in over 8 secs. I have been driving 5 spds for over 17 yrs and do shift properly. I took the car to the dealer where I purchased it and they said the power on the car is fine. I then took it to a second Nissan dealer and fortunately the guy their (Maxima specialist) took the time to test drive my car. He noticed the lack of acceleration power. I clocked him at over 9 secs. We then tried a 2000 SE and I clocked him at just over 7 secs (DIFFERENCE OF 2 SECS). We then raced the two Maximas (2000 SE vs. 20th Ann.). He didn't just beat me, he smoked me (He did not beat me in the change of gears). What would anyone expect in a 2 sec. difference. I left the car so they can inspect it. Although they reset the computer and believe they did something to the throttle they concluded that the extra carpeting that I had underneath the accelerator was the cause of the problem. When I heard this over the phone I could not believe it (but did think it was worth paying $90.00 CAN. to have the 2 secs back). When I tried the car (instead of hitting the usual over 9 secs) I was just over 8 secs. I did not believe it at the beginning and don't believe it now; it was not the extra carpeting. It's just Nissan's way of finding an excuse to charge me.
Does anyone have advice? I don't find it fair to pay full price for a Maxima and still have to pay for them to probe.
The guy who drove my car says he needs hard facts to present to Nissan so they could do something (In the mean time I guess they just want me to pull out my wallet)
Assuming the dealer didn't check it already. Open have someone depress the accelerator fully (with the engine off) then remove the air intake hose to the throttle body. The throttle plate in the throttle plate should be almost parallel to the airflow. If you can manually open the throttle plate (without forcing it) then you may need to have some slack taken out of your throttle cable. I've seen that happen several times, it even happened to myself. I was running at the drag strip one night, and the best time I could pull was a 16.2, whereas my previous best was a 15.4. I checked everything I could think, and of course checked the throttle body last. Turns out there was some slack in the cable (more than should have been there) adjusted out the slack, I was running 15.3's then.
When I was a technician (back in the early 90's) I had encountered a problem with a new Dodge Caravan. Upon delivery, the person drove the car off the lot, happy and content. 3 days later he returned, fuming "This friggin van has no pick-up, I've got to floor it just to keep up with trafic" Turns out that there was additional padding behind the carpet in the floorboard (never saw that as the padding is usually on the back of the carpet, but somehow a piece ofpadding was in there) We removed the padding, his caravan picked up about 20 hp, and he was happy again.
05-31-2001, 01:39 PM
#18
Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 77
20th AE is slow
I feel that my 20th ae is slow too. I haven't tested against the clock but everything at stoplights pulls away from this car.
I was going to give the engine a little break-in time, plus give me time to discover the best RPM's for each gear and then check it again, but it sure feels weak.
Maybe they did like Mazda did with the Miata and mis-represent the HP numbers. Mazda got outed by Car & Driver when they realized that a new "supposedly" higher HP Miata was slower than a previous model. After a dyno test the results showed that Mazda misrepresented the numbers.
They ended up having to offer full refunds on all of the affected Miata's.
I was going to give the engine a little break-in time, plus give me time to discover the best RPM's for each gear and then check it again, but it sure feels weak.
Maybe they did like Mazda did with the Miata and mis-represent the HP numbers. Mazda got outed by Car & Driver when they realized that a new "supposedly" higher HP Miata was slower than a previous model. After a dyno test the results showed that Mazda misrepresented the numbers.
They ended up having to offer full refunds on all of the affected Miata's.
05-31-2001, 02:23 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 166
Originally posted by bramirez
Is anyone having the same problem?!!
My 5 spd Maxima is doing 0-60 in over 8 secs. I have been driving 5 spds for over 17 yrs and do shift properly. I took the car to the dealer where I purchased it and they said the power on the car is fine. I then took it to a second Nissan dealer and fortunately the guy their (Maxima specialist) took the time to test drive my car. He noticed the lack of acceleration power. I clocked him at over 9 secs. We then tried a 2000 SE and I clocked him at just over 7 secs (DIFFERENCE OF 2 SECS). We then raced the two Maximas (2000 SE vs. 20th Ann.). He didn't just beat me, he smoked me (He did not beat me in the change of gears). What would anyone expect in a 2 sec. difference. I left the car so they can inspect it. Although they reset the computer and believe they did something to the throttle they concluded that the extra carpeting that I had underneath the accelerator was the cause of the problem. When I heard this over the phone I could not believe it (but did think it was worth paying $90.00 CAN. to have the 2 secs back). When I tried the car (instead of hitting the usual over 9 secs) I was just over 8 secs. I did not believe it at the beginning and don't believe it now; it was not the extra carpeting. It's just Nissan's way of finding an excuse to charge me.
Does anyone have advice? I don't find it fair to pay full price for a Maxima and still have to pay for them to probe.
The guy who drove my car says he needs hard facts to present to Nissan so they could do something (In the mean time I guess they just want me to pull out my wallet)
Is anyone having the same problem?!!
My 5 spd Maxima is doing 0-60 in over 8 secs. I have been driving 5 spds for over 17 yrs and do shift properly. I took the car to the dealer where I purchased it and they said the power on the car is fine. I then took it to a second Nissan dealer and fortunately the guy their (Maxima specialist) took the time to test drive my car. He noticed the lack of acceleration power. I clocked him at over 9 secs. We then tried a 2000 SE and I clocked him at just over 7 secs (DIFFERENCE OF 2 SECS). We then raced the two Maximas (2000 SE vs. 20th Ann.). He didn't just beat me, he smoked me (He did not beat me in the change of gears). What would anyone expect in a 2 sec. difference. I left the car so they can inspect it. Although they reset the computer and believe they did something to the throttle they concluded that the extra carpeting that I had underneath the accelerator was the cause of the problem. When I heard this over the phone I could not believe it (but did think it was worth paying $90.00 CAN. to have the 2 secs back). When I tried the car (instead of hitting the usual over 9 secs) I was just over 8 secs. I did not believe it at the beginning and don't believe it now; it was not the extra carpeting. It's just Nissan's way of finding an excuse to charge me.
Does anyone have advice? I don't find it fair to pay full price for a Maxima and still have to pay for them to probe.
The guy who drove my car says he needs hard facts to present to Nissan so they could do something (In the mean time I guess they just want me to pull out my wallet)
My cpu dropped its memory the reprogramed it and away I went
A easy test is start the car and purt it in gear right away..
If the car stalls its the cpu
Good luck and try mor dealers or use the lemon law to force them to take it back.
You need five recepts for the same problem so make sure you get documentation from each dealership stating same problem. If they fight you it cost them 3x your fees including the price of the car so they will usually cave in. Thay are not going to make it easy.
05-31-2001, 02:24 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 110
Re: At least
Originally posted by Colonel
Ford fessed up to the problem. I miss the service I got with my Probe GT. If it was broke they fixed. Period. Not Nissan. You have to brow beat them into submission before they will fix anything.
My question is if the car is under warranty, why should he have to pay for anything? Why can't they do troubleshooting without the aid of a computer. I program for a living and computers are not all they are cracked up to be. Based on the code, might not deliver all the answers necessary to diagnosing the problem.
Part of charging me(him, anybody)is to find the problem. I can read a printout as much as the next person so why should anybody have to pay 70 bucks for connecting a connector and reading a display/printout? I tell you the days of using your brain to troubleshoot are about dead.
The computer is only going to give you half the answer. You have to THINK about the information that it is giving you!
Sorry about the soap box but I hate dealing with garages that state "well the computer....". Fine what do YOU think the problem is?
Ford fessed up to the problem. I miss the service I got with my Probe GT. If it was broke they fixed. Period. Not Nissan. You have to brow beat them into submission before they will fix anything.
My question is if the car is under warranty, why should he have to pay for anything? Why can't they do troubleshooting without the aid of a computer. I program for a living and computers are not all they are cracked up to be. Based on the code, might not deliver all the answers necessary to diagnosing the problem.
Part of charging me(him, anybody)is to find the problem. I can read a printout as much as the next person so why should anybody have to pay 70 bucks for connecting a connector and reading a display/printout? I tell you the days of using your brain to troubleshoot are about dead.
The computer is only going to give you half the answer. You have to THINK about the information that it is giving you!
Sorry about the soap box but I hate dealing with garages that state "well the computer....". Fine what do YOU think the problem is?
05-31-2001, 06:58 PM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 621
slow 20th
I never drove a 20th anniversary, but i just about walked away from one at a light the other day. i think it was an auto, but still. a 01 gxe auto stayed close to me from a light til about 50. i have g-teched and used a stop watch, and i can get 6.5 to 6.4 pretty consistantly without even really flogging the car. try pulling your negative battery cable for and hour and rest the ECU, see if that helps. good luck!
06-01-2001, 11:29 AM
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 195
Re: slow 20th
Originally posted by maxse01
I never drove a 20th anniversary, but i just about walked away from one at a light the other day. i think it was an auto, but still. a 01 gxe auto stayed close to me from a light til about 50. i have g-teched and used a stop watch, and i can get 6.5 to 6.4 pretty consistantly without even really flogging the car. try pulling your negative battery cable for and hour and rest the ECU, see if that helps. good luck!
I never drove a 20th anniversary, but i just about walked away from one at a light the other day. i think it was an auto, but still. a 01 gxe auto stayed close to me from a light til about 50. i have g-teched and used a stop watch, and i can get 6.5 to 6.4 pretty consistantly without even really flogging the car. try pulling your negative battery cable for and hour and rest the ECU, see if that helps. good luck!
Your 2001 SE does 0-60 in 6.4 secs??!!
Did you get these numbers with the Stillen Intake? What was your score before the mod?
I have been told that by installing a CAI you lose power at the low end. Could you explain?
Thanks.
06-01-2001, 01:27 PM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 203
I'm even crappier!
Originally posted by bramirez
Is anyone having the same problem?!!
Is anyone having the same problem?!!
06-01-2001, 02:26 PM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 203
Re: I'm even crappier!
Well, I re-connected the battery and tested it again. I took the TCS off this time. Best I could do was a 9.35! This really sucks. Maybe I should take the OSCAI off and try it again. I'm going to have to take it off to take it in to Nissan anyway. This really sucks!
06-01-2001, 02:27 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 214
sorry to hear about all this trouble...
This really sucks and I'm sorry to hear about all of you Max AE owners having trouble like this With that level of performance my Accord V6 could smoke you. Hell, even the 4-cylinder 5-spd Accord guys with 150HP could beat your alleged 227HP.
Needless to say, if I were any of you guys and this was happening to me I would be LIVID, and that's putting it mildly. You buy a Maxima because you want performance, and when you don't get what's advertised that's like a slap in the face!!
I really hope you guys get to the bottom of this and that your problems are resolved. Heck, maybe you'll be able to con Nissan into giving you a 2k2 3.5 Max at invoice + a hot trade in value on your car...that's what I'd probably do. Regarless, if a car isn't performing "as advertised" and not making "advertised horsepower" then Nissan is liable. I know it may be tough because auto manufacturers typically make it very difficult for you: they only advertise crank horsepower and not wheel horsepower, and only very rarely to they advertise (guarantee) any specific 0-60 times. I know BMW and Audi do, but they're luxury makes so maybe with them you get a better guarantee of what you'll get, and a better ground to stake your claim that your product isn't performing as advertised.
I hope you guys get this worked out. That sucks!!!
With that level of performance my Accord V6 could smoke you. Hell, even the 4-cylinder 5-spd Accord guys with 150HP could beat your alleged 227HP.Needless to say, if I were any of you guys and this was happening to me I would be LIVID, and that's putting it mildly. You buy a Maxima because you want performance, and when you don't get what's advertised that's like a slap in the face!!
I really hope you guys get to the bottom of this and that your problems are resolved. Heck, maybe you'll be able to con Nissan into giving you a 2k2 3.5 Max at invoice + a hot trade in value on your car...that's what I'd probably do. Regarless, if a car isn't performing "as advertised" and not making "advertised horsepower" then Nissan is liable. I know it may be tough because auto manufacturers typically make it very difficult for you: they only advertise crank horsepower and not wheel horsepower, and only very rarely to they advertise (guarantee) any specific 0-60 times. I know BMW and Audi do, but they're luxury makes so maybe with them you get a better guarantee of what you'll get, and a better ground to stake your claim that your product isn't performing as advertised.
I hope you guys get this worked out. That sucks!!!
06-01-2001, 02:44 PM
#30
Are apples-to-apples being compared here? A 6 whatever versus a 9 something is significant. Is there manual shifting of the automatic going on, overdrive on or off? Also, are you mattin' it to the floor? Get way up on that thang and mash, son. 
I say this because sometimes I'm not getting all of mine and the car seems a little slower (shorter legs). But, if I ensure the pedal is going down as far as I think the car has lots more go.
I say this because sometimes I'm not getting all of mine and the car seems a little slower (shorter legs). But, if I ensure the pedal is going down as far as I think the car has lots more go.
06-01-2001, 03:30 PM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 621
Re: Re: slow 20th
i got 6.4 with the g-tech and with a stopwatch. I have not done it again since i got my intake but i am guessing it won't be much different. I am probably going to the track next week so i will find out what my max does in the quarter then. Good luck
06-01-2001, 03:34 PM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 203
Hey, it doesn't matter how incompetant I am or how weak my legs are or how inaccurate my odometer and stopwatch are. I am reasonably sure that I'm coming within 1 second of what I should get at the track. To get an idea of how I compare to other posted statistics I'm just accelerating from a standstill in D. OD is on. TCM on/off didn't make a significant differance. My seat is close enough to the pedal and I have fairly long and non-weak legs. Even if I am 1 second off (which I think is a pretty big margin of error) an 8.4 second 0-100kmh still depresses me. As you can imagine, a 9.4 average has me sobbing and weeping. There has to be something wrong, and I just hope that it can be easily fixed and that my OSCAI doesn't somehow get blamed for this (if they notice it). I will go out and try it again with more effort in my accelerator leg tomorrow but I can't see it making that much differance.
06-01-2001, 03:59 PM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 203
Re: I got a question.....
Originally posted by Max_Vader_2K
What if we removed the little gas pedal stopper behind the pedal, would we get better performance? The further the pedal can go, the power we can use?
What if we removed the little gas pedal stopper behind the pedal, would we get better performance? The further the pedal can go, the power we can use?
06-01-2001, 04:03 PM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 727
Re: Re: I got a question.....
Originally posted by BlackAE
I don't know the technical terms for the parts but that pedal stopper should stop the pedal when the cable/moving-part attached to it reaches it's maximum length. If you removed it there would be undue strain on that cable/moving-part which would not be a good thing. If the accelerator pedal can go beyond that stopping point then that cable/moving-part should be adjusted not the pedal stopper removed. I'm sure one of the mechanically inclined folk on this board will explain this better momentarily.
I don't know the technical terms for the parts but that pedal stopper should stop the pedal when the cable/moving-part attached to it reaches it's maximum length. If you removed it there would be undue strain on that cable/moving-part which would not be a good thing. If the accelerator pedal can go beyond that stopping point then that cable/moving-part should be adjusted not the pedal stopper removed. I'm sure one of the mechanically inclined folk on this board will explain this better momentarily.
06-01-2001, 05:00 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 214
0-100kmh and 0-60mph are similar, but NOT the same...
Originally posted by BlackAE
an 8.4 second 0-100kmh still depresses me
an 8.4 second 0-100kmh still depresses me
This thread came up on my SHO Accord V6 board once and I made a very very rough 0-100kmh => 0-60mph compensator of -0.44s to convert 0-100kmh to 0-60mph.
The stock Accord V6 and Maxima automagic have VERY SIMILAR stock performance numbers so if you take that same rough calculation and apply it to the Max automagic you can lop off 0.44s from your 0-100kmh number.
That brings you down to 7.96s 0-60mph which I believe is right about where a stock Maxima automagic is, without powershifting at redline.
So anyways, I kinda lost track of this thread, but just be sure that you're comparing the same numbers.
06-01-2001, 05:40 PM
#40
ummmm....
I think the ONLY way to know here is to remove all the variables... slope, wind, whatever... and take it to a dyno. any decent speed shop..
there are plenty of 2K+ dyno run sheets laying around for you to compare with. With and without mods.
but note, if you truly suspect a problem with your max, dont push your car on the dyno. Thats a bad place to break your car. You can tell the guys to stop at whatever RPM you are comfortable with. You wont see peak, but you could see the curve and know that something was seriously wrong. you would also be able back this up.
I would say to service "where should I dyno my car." they will say you shouldnt but at least find a place that they accept so they cant deny you work because you were 'abusing' the car (I know, not likely on a dyno, but they could SAY that)
there are plenty of 2K+ dyno run sheets laying around for you to compare with. With and without mods.
but note, if you truly suspect a problem with your max, dont push your car on the dyno. Thats a bad place to break your car. You can tell the guys to stop at whatever RPM you are comfortable with. You wont see peak, but you could see the curve and know that something was seriously wrong. you would also be able back this up.
I would say to service "where should I dyno my car." they will say you shouldnt but at least find a place that they accept so they cant deny you work because you were 'abusing' the car (I know, not likely on a dyno, but they could SAY that)