2000 Maxima ground strap under the car?
10-20-2005, 02:08 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 54
2000 Maxima ground strap under the car?
I was looking under the car yesterday for a ball my son conveniently put there, when I noticed what appears to be a ground strap (it was definitely flat braided wire, maybe 1/2" wide, tops) about midships dangling from the car. So it had broke off from somewhere, it wasnt dragging on the ground though. Does anyone have any idea what it is what it is for?
Thanks,
JimL
Thanks,
JimL
10-20-2005, 02:16 PM
#2
it is the ground for the main cat. you can replace it if you want or attempt to reuse. there are other grounding points along the exhaust tunnel so you will be fine if you just choose to remove it. i ran mine for a while with no ground while using a test pipe with no issues.
10-20-2005, 06:20 PM
#6
Originally Posted by hesham1
and a mighty fine job its done for my 2k2 here in NJ! 
10-20-2005, 09:03 PM
#9
Originally Posted by jimmax00
I was looking under the car yesterday for a ball my son conveniently put there, when I noticed what appears to be a ground strap (it was definitely flat braided wire, maybe 1/2" wide, tops) about midships dangling from the car. So it had broke off from somewhere, it wasnt dragging on the ground though. Does anyone have any idea what it is what it is for?
Thanks,
JimL
Thanks,
JimL
10-20-2005, 09:40 PM
#10
Originally Posted by Chapman99SE
anybody know like the scientific explanation for how it helps reduce corrosion?
seems pretty interesting
seems pretty interesting
10-20-2005, 10:08 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by mtrai760
Corrosion is the returning of metals or 'oxides' to there natural state. Metals in there natural state are generally not very useful, and must be combined with other metals to form alloys, which are much stronger and useful than the base alloy in its original state. For example, Pure aluminum is not very strong, but when combined with chromium, zinc, and magnisium, and the proper ratio, you get 6061 series aluminum. This is great for us, being able to combine oxides to form stronger materials to form structures, tools, etc. However, this does not stop them from trying to return to there natural state. All metals corrode at a different rate, but to have corrosion, you must first have a: moisture, and b: electricity. Cars have all of that. Moisture in the air, a TON of moisture in the exhaust (don't remember the exact amount, but gas engines produce a lot of water as a byproduct of the combustion process), you also have electricity, the whole chassis is used to ground the vehicles electrical system, and you have a bunch of static being produced from the rolling resistance of the tires over the pavement. Therefore, anyway of getting rid of the electric current flow is good, or you are just encouraging corrosion. This is a very rudimentary explanation, Ive had a lot of training on corrosion control due to being in military aviation for the last 10 years. Hope I didn't make anyones head spin.
That was a good explaination. Never really thought of that
10-21-2005, 05:13 PM
#13
of course, the irony of that "strap" being a purported corrosion inhibitor is the simple fact that the reason it is DISCONNECTED is that the connector rusted away!!
besides, there's nothing you can do to stop heavy rust/corrosion on the oem exhaust. Garbage steel used, poor quality...thanks Nissan.
besides, there's nothing you can do to stop heavy rust/corrosion on the oem exhaust. Garbage steel used, poor quality...thanks Nissan.
10-21-2005, 07:51 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 933
The Fed. spec. 00 cars have the Rear O2 sensor located just aft of the main cat. which is about where this ground/bonding strap is located. It is an attempt to ensure that the O2 sensor has a good ground. It ain't acting as a "sacrificial anode".
10-21-2005, 08:03 PM
#21
No, it is not a sacrificial 'annode'. If it was, it would corrode instead of the exhaust pipe. It is not there to be a better ground for the O2 sensor. Look under any car, you will find at least one, if not multiple ground points. On the 4th gens, the strap is no where near the O2 sensor, and on the 240sx, its on a completely seperate section of the pipe. 
10-21-2005, 10:44 PM
#22
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 933
The exhaust pipe section in question and including the cat. flange connections use composite or "asbestos" type flat gaskets which are not electrically conductive, which would leave only the bolts/studs/nuts to ground the cat./pipe section to the rest of the system and car. With corrosion of the bolts/studs/nuts and contact surfaces a good ground connection could be lost. O2 sensors absolutely have to have a good ground. There is no other logical reason for ground strap/s on the exhaust system. There are ground/bonding wires all over these cars and they are not for corrosion control. The exhaust system has no leaking circuit voltages, or really any dissimilar metals that could cause galvanic corrosion. On the aircraft, ground/bonding straps/cables/wires are used to help protect the aircraft from lightning strike damage, to prevent electric "potential" (sparking) caused by high fluid and air flows, (look at the bonding straps/wires used on all the fuel lines particularly the engine fuel supply pipes/lines etc) and to ensure a good ground for certain electronic components and units that are mounted/installed in such a way that they might not get a guaranteed good ground otherwise. Units mounted using flexible isolator mounts for example.
10-21-2005, 11:30 PM
#23
Originally Posted by irish44j
what snow?
regarding the o2 after the cat on the fed specs, would it be feasable to replace it with an o2 sim or just keep it in the pipe?
10-25-2005, 08:46 AM
#24
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,038
while we are on this subject. . . .
I have an intermittent problem with my starter that I believe to be caused by a bad ground - of course I'm not certain. I came to that conclusion by reading other threads and by process of elimination. I replaced the starter - so that's not it (probably). I've cleaned the crank and cam sensors - so those aren't it (probably). I've checked and re-checked all the ground points I can find, then I've used dialectric grease on them. So that's not it.
I "believe" I caused the problem when I replaced my clutch by using locktite on the bolts that connect the tranny to the motor (didn't read the manual - it didn't call for locktite). I've since taken the bolts that are on the front/top of the motor out including the ones on the starter itself cleaned them and replaced.
When I did this, the problem disappeared for a while but now is back, albeit less frequently. (Basically, the starter will act normal, then appear to lose power, then act normal again and start; but it has done any number of strange things).
So, my question is, how can I test the starter to SEE if it is properly grounded?
I have an intermittent problem with my starter that I believe to be caused by a bad ground - of course I'm not certain. I came to that conclusion by reading other threads and by process of elimination. I replaced the starter - so that's not it (probably). I've cleaned the crank and cam sensors - so those aren't it (probably). I've checked and re-checked all the ground points I can find, then I've used dialectric grease on them. So that's not it.
I "believe" I caused the problem when I replaced my clutch by using locktite on the bolts that connect the tranny to the motor (didn't read the manual - it didn't call for locktite). I've since taken the bolts that are on the front/top of the motor out including the ones on the starter itself cleaned them and replaced.
When I did this, the problem disappeared for a while but now is back, albeit less frequently. (Basically, the starter will act normal, then appear to lose power, then act normal again and start; but it has done any number of strange things).
So, my question is, how can I test the starter to SEE if it is properly grounded?
10-25-2005, 05:43 PM
#25
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 3
Might this grounding strap have a big enough impact to effect the ignition? I'm getting the dreaded P1320 on my '00 and can feel the occasional mis-fire. I haven't taken the car in yet to try to find out which cylinder is mis-firing. About the same time the CEL was thrown, I noticed this same strap hanging down as well.
I'm doubting it, but will be replacing it along with the plugs this weekend. If that doesn't help, I'll be taking it in.
I'm doubting it, but will be replacing it along with the plugs this weekend. If that doesn't help, I'll be taking it in.
10-25-2005, 07:25 PM
#28
Originally Posted by Shahman
Might this grounding strap have a big enough impact to effect the ignition? I'm getting the dreaded P1320 on my '00 and can feel the occasional mis-fire. I haven't taken the car in yet to try to find out which cylinder is mis-firing. About the same time the CEL was thrown, I noticed this same strap hanging down as well.
I'm doubting it, but will be replacing it along with the plugs this weekend. If that doesn't help, I'll be taking it in.
I'm doubting it, but will be replacing it along with the plugs this weekend. If that doesn't help, I'll be taking it in.
10-26-2005, 04:35 PM
#29
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 3
Originally Posted by sloppymax
you probably have a coil(s) that are bad. they are notorious for going bad and causing misfires on 2k and early build 2k1s. i would recommend replacing the plugs if its time for it but replacing them might not fix the misfires.
Thanks for the quick response.
10-29-2005, 10:24 PM
#30
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Posts: 54
Originally Posted by P. Samson
The Fed. spec. 00 cars have the Rear O2 sensor located just aft of the main cat. which is about where this ground/bonding strap is located. It is an attempt to ensure that the O2 sensor has a good ground. It ain't acting as a "sacrificial anode".
Bingo! Another post is the Check Engine Light is on. Luckily my bro was visiting, we went to pick up pizza and he said, he your lights on, just so happens I broght my code scanner with me. Sure enough, I got a code P0135.
Look it up here in the forum:
P0135 - Front O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 1)
So this one isnt exactly where you specified, I think it is on the Y-pipe, i bet it has to do with that ground strap hangin instead of attached.
I have to install new pads, rotors, and rear sway bar, just in time for the winter, yeah, so I will tackle this while I have the car up. Thanks for the help.
JimL
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