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Fixed vias, on boosted = huge difference.

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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 08:09 AM
  #1  
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Fixed vias, on boosted = huge difference.

Guy i fixed my vias 2 times before I boosted with the jb weld fix but kept breaking.So, I boosted my car and it would hesitate and not runn so hot, still strong as hell but wouldnt feel to strong top end.So I thought well what would happen if I actually welded it, and so this past week I did it with a tig welder.Man it is so much stronger than ever before and what a difference it makes on this boosted car.It honestly feels like 30 to 40 horse difference.It is a serious kick in the pants.Now when i start boosting in second gear it starts spinning before it only did that in first, it would spin when going into second, but now it does it even if i am already in second and boost it up.The welding seemed to havew held up great so far and i think it is a permanent fix.So if you have the means weld it, it will last longer.
Old Nov 11, 2005 | 09:35 AM
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i was on the dyno about a week ago with my repaired vias. the parts SR20DEN fixed it with worked great but i could not figure out the clock/position of the valve. first dyno was flat after 5k and i only had an hour so i just pulled the power valve out again. difference was over a 30whp gain and i am n/a and auto. did you happen to record the position of the power valve or did you just tig the cup with the power valve in and put it back together?
Old Nov 11, 2005 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by sloppymax
i was on the dyno about a week ago with my repaired vias. the parts SR20DEN fixed it with worked great but i could not figure out the clock/position of the valve. first dyno was flat after 5k and i only had an hour so i just pulled the power valve out again. difference was over a 30whp gain and i am n/a and auto. did you happen to record the position of the power valve or did you just tig the cup with the power valve in and put it back together?
So you took the valve out? or you just adjusted it. Do you still have in there?
Old Nov 11, 2005 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Lontar1
So you took the valve out? or you just adjusted it. Do you still have in there?
i removed the power valve completely. torque feel a little peak but averaged higher through the band since torque is a function of horsepower. i pulled 194hp after removing it and the fuel pump would not hold pressure above 6k. my fpr dropped close to .5bar above 6k so with a healthy fuel pump i think it would be closer to 200.
Old Nov 11, 2005 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by jeremykedel
Guy i fixed my vias 2 times before I boosted with the jb weld fix but kept breaking.So, I boosted my car and it would hesitate and not runn so hot, still strong as hell but wouldnt feel to strong top end.So I thought well what would happen if I actually welded it, and so this past week I did it with a tig welder.Man it is so much stronger than ever before and what a difference it makes on this boosted car.It honestly feels like 30 to 40 horse difference.It is a serious kick in the pants.Now when i start boosting in second gear it starts spinning before it only did that in first, it would spin when going into second, but now it does it even if i am already in second and boost it up.The welding seemed to havew held up great so far and i think it is a permanent fix.So if you have the means weld it, it will last longer.

The welding would be a great option. When I came up with the JB weld fix, I knew it wasn't going to be permanent but fortuantely mine has held up for over a year now.
Old Nov 11, 2005 | 11:35 AM
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omg, does anyone see any flaws with welding? Dam this might be our solution after all!
Old Nov 11, 2005 | 11:56 AM
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sorry for the noob question but what exactly is a "tig welder"?
Old Nov 11, 2005 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by OOmaxSE
sorry for the noob question but what exactly is a "tig welder"?
TIG stands for "tungsten inert gas". A tungsten electrode is used that is shielded with argon or helium gas during the welding process to prevent oxidation of the weld bead and slag buildup. TIG welding produces probably the prettiest looking welds when done right.
Old Nov 11, 2005 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by sloppymax
i removed the power valve completely. torque feel a little peak but averaged higher through the band since torque is a function of horsepower. i pulled 194hp after removing it and the fuel pump would not hold pressure above 6k. my fpr dropped close to .5bar above 6k so with a healthy fuel pump i think it would be closer to 200.
I might remove mine and see how it feels... let me asked you again.. you removed the beige rod inside the intake.... that goes inside the cup.....
Old Nov 11, 2005 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Lontar1
I might remove mine and see how it feels... let me asked you again.. you removed the beige rod inside the intake.... that goes inside the cup.....
yeah, might the light you were looking at it under but mine was yellow. of course it has stains but looks to be originally yellow. you have to remove it from the front of the motor(pulley side) from that access port but there is a spring that must be taken out of the vias box side as well.
Old Nov 11, 2005 | 01:03 PM
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The tig did it i was worried about the bearing and what not and melting it but had no problems. http://2000turbomax.piczo.com
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 07:31 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by jeremykedel
Guy i fixed my vias 2 times before I boosted with the jb weld fix but kept breaking.So, I boosted my car and it would hesitate and not runn so hot, still strong as hell but wouldnt feel to strong top end.So I thought well what would happen if I actually welded it, and so this past week I did it with a tig welder.Man it is so much stronger than ever before and what a difference it makes on this boosted car.It honestly feels like 30 to 40 horse difference.It is a serious kick in the pants.Now when i start boosting in second gear it starts spinning before it only did that in first, it would spin when going into second, but now it does it even if i am already in second and boost it up.The welding seemed to havew held up great so far and i think it is a permanent fix.So if you have the means weld it, it will last longer.
Hey, mind telling me how you welded the cup back in? I'm assuming you took the the shaft the cup is attached to out of the valve assembly? I started to tear mine apart, but couldn't get the shaft out. Any pointers? Thanks
Old Dec 14, 2005 | 04:01 PM
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i took the end off the tig welder and ran the wire out a little far and held the cup in place with a pai of pliers.then tacked it, then i cut the spring a little to make way for the weld.Been over a month so far no probs yet.
Old Dec 15, 2005 | 12:00 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by jeremykedel
i took the end off the tig welder and ran the wire out a little far and held the cup in place with a pai of pliers.then tacked it, then i cut the spring a little to make way for the weld.Been over a month so far no probs yet.
Thanks!
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