I'm so tired of my aftermarket rotors warping
11-23-2005, 06:38 PM
#1
I'm so tired of my aftermarket rotors warping
Hi,
1st try: Nissan Pads + Nissan Rotors -> Rotors warped
2nd try: Axxis Metal Masters + Brembo Rotors -> Rotors warped but amazing stopping power
3rd try: PBR metal pads + Brembo Rotors -> Rotors warped after 8000 miles
Has anyone found a pad/rotor combo that doesn't result in warping (uneven wear) but has excellent stopping power. I thought Brembo rotors weren't supposed to warp. I don't brake hard or often, a lot highway driving.
Thanks
1st try: Nissan Pads + Nissan Rotors -> Rotors warped
2nd try: Axxis Metal Masters + Brembo Rotors -> Rotors warped but amazing stopping power
3rd try: PBR metal pads + Brembo Rotors -> Rotors warped after 8000 miles
Has anyone found a pad/rotor combo that doesn't result in warping (uneven wear) but has excellent stopping power. I thought Brembo rotors weren't supposed to warp. I don't brake hard or often, a lot highway driving.
Thanks
11-23-2005, 09:11 PM
#3
I have had the same issue. I have replaced the stock rotors with Brembo slotted rotors and EBC Greens. This combo lasted the longest, about 18K. I am now on my second set of Brembo's, also slotted with the pbr ULT Ceramic pads. Been on now for 3K. I expect similar results. I believe the rotors are just terribly undersized. BBK is one solution if you have the money. I figured out after replacing the rotors approximately every 20K miles for around $200/swap, I will spend less than with(pick a BBK company) any kits that are out. Especially considering the cost of replacement parts for said BBK. JMO though...
11-23-2005, 10:40 PM
#5
Stardust- I told ya HPS won't warp your rotors, do you belive me now ? Hawk HPS all the way, my rotors have turned blue from some VERY high speed stopping and they are still not warped at all- and I have 23 dollar a pop cheap made in China rotors from Napa.
11-23-2005, 11:04 PM
#6
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
Stardust- I told ya HPS won't warp your rotors, do you belive me now ? Hawk HPS all the way, my rotors have turned blue from some VERY high speed stopping and they are still not warped at all- and I have 23 dollar a pop cheap made in China rotors from Napa.
11-24-2005, 01:53 AM
#8
Originally Posted by irish44j
6th gen rotors and calipers with Hawk HPS pads 
Instead, i found some high quality rotors. Life of rotors are not in the pads but mainly in quality of the rotors. I have AP Racing rotors with hawk pads. Best quality i have ever held in my hand, and not only more affordable than 2k4 setup but simpler. Brakes are firm, and on point. Only complaint is squeeling from the pads and has nothing to do wit the rotors. Do yourself a favor and hit up AP Racing. If you need more info, PM me and i'll get u their info.
Just a little background info, they have been making braking parts/systems for other manufacturers for years....not they doing it themselves. I've had mine for a good month and a half if not longer and i'm absolutely happy wit them. Just got suspension done this week and checked them out...looking great.
11-24-2005, 11:49 AM
#14
Originally Posted by steven88
Mike, is it true that majority of rotors perform the same? This is assuming they are blanks....I might just go your route since brembo or nissan rotors cost alot more...is it also true that the pads are what warp the rotors?
Yes its the PAD which warps the rotors, as it leaves material on the rotor. Cheap pads like OEM will do this. I have no problems with my Hawks. Give me OEM rotors and OEM pads and I will warp them within 2 weeks of my driving to work. I love runing up to my stupid speed limiter on weekly basis, and then I need something to stop the car with. OEM stuff would be vibrating like crazy, yet my made in China rotors and Hawk Pads hold up really good. My Rotors are Blue from all the heat, but they have no cracks in them as of yet.
Meccanoble
AP Racing rotors ? What size ? OEM repleacement or what ? I'm interested. I'm going to get the Brembo GT package in the spring most likely to cope with my big bore VQ I'm gonna build.
11-24-2005, 12:52 PM
#15
Axxis pads on 04 frozen rotors, had them for almost a year, lots of really hard braking no warpage yet. just awesoem braking. the brackets are like 150bucks if ur gonna ned new rotors why not spend a lil more and get bettere performance.
but i have 45k 
11-24-2005, 04:27 PM
#18
I put on powerslot slotted front rotors with the hawk aps. Nothing but brake dust and squeaking. My rear pads are like non-existant, but I picked up some Axxis Deluxe plus (front and rear) and some oe blank rotors for the rear. I will check back in jan with an update on noise/dust.
11-24-2005, 07:33 PM
#22
how many times do we have to go over this?
in MOST CASES, the ROTORS are not "warping," they just feel that way because of uneven pad material transfer buildup, a result of using OEM or OEM-replacement brake pads.
I'm not going to rehash my "scientific unscientific" study I did on this aspect, but suffice to say that when my original rotors "warped" I did some experimenting and found they hadn't warped at all.
Believe me if you like, or don't.....it's your money you're wasting buying all these fancy rotors. Just buy Hawk HPS pads and you'll be good to go.
in MOST CASES, the ROTORS are not "warping," they just feel that way because of uneven pad material transfer buildup, a result of using OEM or OEM-replacement brake pads.
I'm not going to rehash my "scientific unscientific" study I did on this aspect, but suffice to say that when my original rotors "warped" I did some experimenting and found they hadn't warped at all.
Believe me if you like, or don't.....it's your money you're wasting buying all these fancy rotors. Just buy Hawk HPS pads and you'll be good to go.
11-25-2005, 10:21 AM
#30
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Aiea, HI
Posts: 46
Originally Posted by irish44j
how many times do we have to go over this?
in MOST CASES, the ROTORS are not "warping," they just feel that way because of uneven pad material transfer buildup, a result of using OEM or OEM-replacement brake pads.
I'm not going to rehash my "scientific unscientific" study I did on this aspect, but suffice to say that when my original rotors "warped" I did some experimenting and found they hadn't warped at all.
Believe me if you like, or don't.....it's your money you're wasting buying all these fancy rotors. Just buy Hawk HPS pads and you'll be good to go.
in MOST CASES, the ROTORS are not "warping," they just feel that way because of uneven pad material transfer buildup, a result of using OEM or OEM-replacement brake pads.
I'm not going to rehash my "scientific unscientific" study I did on this aspect, but suffice to say that when my original rotors "warped" I did some experimenting and found they hadn't warped at all.
Believe me if you like, or don't.....it's your money you're wasting buying all these fancy rotors. Just buy Hawk HPS pads and you'll be good to go.
11-25-2005, 10:57 AM
#31
Originally Posted by Bluesbrekr
Make sure you're not over torquing the lug nuts, too. 80-85 lbs. is the spec.
Too tight will cause them to warp. I've got my OEM rotors/pads and no warping after 45K miles.
Too tight will cause them to warp. I've got my OEM rotors/pads and no warping after 45K miles.
Also during a recent brake job on my '01' the drivers front caliper wasn't stuck but the piston was wearing inside caliper as if it were binding. A dragging caliper can cause your unnecessary heat build up and warp the prematurely.
One last thing check wheel balance for bent rim. Two of my AE rims were bent BAD when I put tires on and that can translate like a warped rotor too.
There I'm done...
11-25-2005, 04:59 PM
#32
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 551
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
Majority of the rotors are cast from the same iron so it really makes no diff if you get some cheap CarQuest or Autozone rotors, or Nissan ones. They all get them from some manufacturer like Bendix, Raybestos etc.
11-25-2005, 07:23 PM
#33
Originally Posted by Eenis
What should I look for in Rotors then? If they're all the same, then why buy iRotors or Brembo in the GD instead of the $23 NAPA replacements? What makes a good blank, period? I believe there's been discussion about how XDrilled and slotted rotors are created, and how the point in production at which the holes/slots are put into the rotor impact the chance of them cracking, but what about blanks? Basically, why pay a premium if they're the same? And this is outside of zinc coating or cryogenic processing.
my advice: don't pay a premium unless it's a true performance upgrade (i.e. real BBK or 2-piece rotors). Invest in good pads (HPS)
I got mine at RedlineMax also (obviously)
11-25-2005, 08:59 PM
#34
So that whole theory of superheated gases trapped between the surface of the pad and rotor surface which creates brake fade; and is reduced by using slotted or Xdrilled rotors is just bunk?
11-25-2005, 09:12 PM
#35
Originally Posted by RR5
So that whole theory of superheated gases trapped between the surface of the pad and rotor surface which creates brake fade; and is reduced by using slotted or Xdrilled rotors is just bunk?
Even if all pads did that, it wouldn't apply to typical street driving, as not nearly enough heat is generated unless you're repeatedly stopping from 70mph over and over and over and over. This *could* apply to racing (i.e. road courses), but even then, I doubt it. I've never had any problems with brake fade, even in long autocross courses where the brakes get quite hot.
Another example: I go into the mountains to ski alot, and enjoy driving rather aggressively up and down the mountains. The only time I ever had any brake overheating problems was when my brakes were completely stock (OEM pads/rotors/etc). Since then, I've come down many long mountain roads (going downhill for20-30 minutes at a time with hard braking), with 4 people in the car and a week's worth of ski gear...Car at its heaviest, and moving pretty fast down the moutains....and never had ANY fade issues. It's all about the pads.
11-26-2005, 07:55 PM
#38
I hate to be the naysayer here....but I installed Frozen rotors AND Hawk HPS pads @ 30k, and they "warped" within 3k miles.
I've since turned the rotors and they are holding-up better, but still shimmying some on hi-speed stops.
I agree with the majority here.....BBK is cost prohibitive, and stock is no answer. Best you can do is get better pads, and plan on buying cheap replacement rotors every few thousand miles.
The diameter of these brakes is simply too small for the weight and performance of this car, and the design of the calipers/carrier has GOT to be defective in some way or another. Just have to deal with it.....at least the engines aren't exploding -- YET!
gr
I've since turned the rotors and they are holding-up better, but still shimmying some on hi-speed stops.
I agree with the majority here.....BBK is cost prohibitive, and stock is no answer. Best you can do is get better pads, and plan on buying cheap replacement rotors every few thousand miles.
The diameter of these brakes is simply too small for the weight and performance of this car, and the design of the calipers/carrier has GOT to be defective in some way or another. Just have to deal with it.....at least the engines aren't exploding -- YET!
gr
11-26-2005, 09:13 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
800k and warped? damn.. thats short
i have brembo and pbr pads..BUT i think ever since i got SS lines.. my rotors dont warp as much.. this time my rotors lasted a 1.5 years..
i think ss lines makes the pressure more linear.. and less expansion of the fluid
i have brembo and pbr pads..BUT i think ever since i got SS lines.. my rotors dont warp as much.. this time my rotors lasted a 1.5 years..
i think ss lines makes the pressure more linear.. and less expansion of the fluid
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