So heres a little background on whats been going on. For the past week or so I have really started to notice the autotradgic on my 02 I35 starting to slip and shift hard and generally give me all the signs that its on its way out in the near future. So I called infinity and I had an appointment today at 1 to meet with a tech to see if I could duplicate the problem with him in the car (which I was nervous about because I was figuring they were gonna try and screw me and basically say if the thing moves forward the tranny is fine) Anyway I told my dad about what was goin on and before I was going to drive to the dealership to get it checked out my dad wanted a ride in the car to see if I was imagining things (i know I'm not) anyway he goes to crank the thing over and it starts clanking like theres no tomorrow and barely starts.. and when it does it sounds like someone is banging on the side of the block with a hammer about 500 times per minute. We couldent rev it really and it would start and than would start to die. You could barely keep it alive by liberally applying gass. This was the first sign of any engine trouble at all. The car was running perfectly last night. So we shut it down and called infiniti. They sent out a tow truck and its being towed to the dealership. What do you think is up with the engine much less the friggen tranny.. Jesus this isnt my week. At least my toyo proxes 4 and my otto FSTB came in today.. not much good without a working car though.
Please give your input I really want to go to the dealership and sound informed so they dont try to take advantage of me.

 

MAF probably

 

wow if this is an maf I will be shocked. It sounds like the piston is banging against the top of the block, and this is at idle

 

It seems like a MAF problem with the symptoms the same as mine. When my MAF went out two days ago, i never had the clanking or banging that you describe. Given I was on the highway when all the electronics shut down (try driving at 70mph w/o power steering). Coasted to a stop, restarted, and it just gave me enough juice to get home. Mine just wouldn't go anywhere without it sputtering and stalling.

 

well it turns out that my engine was 2 quarts low. When I went to showcase Nissan in Bourne, ma they were supposed to change the oil and never put enough back in. ****ing idiots. Now because my car was running without oil I wonder how much long term friggen damage has been done that I cant charge dealership. I am so ****in pissed

 

There are a lot of these f**king ba*tards out there messing around with another person's car. My god, I don't understand what they have in their mind while working on a vehicle, an oil change the simplest of things. Think about if they were actually fixing something real big....

First rate ba*tards run these stealerships -- would they do the same to their vehicles!!!!

 

Make sure you get the oil changed ASAP to prevent any more sludge buildup from that.

 

Yeah now the real question is... how much long term damage has this really done to my car?

 

The infiniti dealership changed the oil and there is still some noise in the engine... jeesh this is just great. Anyone know what it could be?

 

Depending on how many miles since your oil change, you might be a victom of the oil consumption bug. Regardless, low oil won't make the car not run unless it locks the engine (which yours obviously hasn't). I'd have them check for codes to see if your cat is bad. When mine went, the car did basically exactly what you described. In fact, my oil consumption is probably what clogged up my cat in the first place! How many miles do you have?

 

Well the oil was deff the main culprit because once they got fresh oil in there and the correct amount the car started running pretty well again. Right now the car is running, the engine is just makin some noise still.. So I am pretty sure the nissan dealership screwing up on the oil change was the main culprit but now I need to be sure that this screwup didnt damage my engine.

well it did damage my engine I just need to know how much and what needs to be replaced

I have 59,500 miles on it

 

If it truely damaged the engine, you're looking at new lower bearings, new cam, new lifters, new valves, and new rings, BUT, it's not damaged from the oil being low (or else it wouldn't run at all). It really sounds like you have an oil consumption problem to me.

 

that may be part of the ploblem, but say the dealership did change the oil... I dont think even an RX8 (the most oil hungry engine I know of) would swallow 2 quarts in 2 weeks.

 

how many miles in two weeks? I go through about four quarts in that amount of time, but I also drive 2k miles. Yah, mine drinks the stuff. It's getting rebuilt this spring.

 

Not to start a pissing match. But the internals could defiently be damaged and it will still run....Next time you change your oil check for shavings. Have your oil analyzed. It'll tell you if anything was damaged and if the analysis comes back Nissan will be forced to cover you..I would also make a complaint ASAP, that way if/when something does happen in the future (gaskets blown, oil consumption, overheating, etc) you are defiently covered after your warranty expires...I remember the idiot pit guy double gasketed an older gmc truck. within 4 miles the engine blew up and the insurance took it up the a** to fix the rust bucket.

 

Sounds like my recent problem this past weekend. The Saturday I was suppose to drive home my car would not start. I had power but no engine life at all. I had it towed in and Nissan said it was the starter. After payin $400+ it was running agian, but now my car accelerates slowly. Jerks on acceleration and my RPM's run up to like 5500 before the auto shifts. I managed to to drive it back to my parents house and leave it sitting there. Since I have my 6th Gen I'm not to worry about it anymore. I don't know what it was though. I was thinking I was going to lose my transmisson on the 18hr drive I had to make to get to the house.

 

I am guessing a connecting rod or valve train.

 

OT, but the ecu and tcm (transmission control module) both take data from the maf, I think. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, I'm new to nissan but alot of domestic cars (ford for one) takes maf readings to increase/decrease line pressure and also helps determine when to turn the shift solenoids on/off.. Since you are having both engine/trans problems, I would guess it's an electrical problem. I would start there.-But maybe you should start a new thread and get some other peoples advice before dropping $100 +